Every October we head to the Italian Riviera for a little off-season sea and sun, and sometimes the olive harvest. This time we left Liguria for a taste of Tuscany. The first stop on this whirlwind trip that my Italian so carefully planned was to the medieval town of Campiglia Marittima. While exploring this centuries-old hilltop town along the Etruscan Coast, I felt as though we had entered a deserted movie set. Were we the only actors?

Stopping for espresso in the town square, we skipped the Archaeology Museum and the Mineral Museum set within the 13th century Palazzo Pretorio and headed up to the archaeological ruins.

It was here that traces of pre-medieval settlements were left to discover, including a Romanesque window.

After getting lost in the sleepy streets, we left Campiglia Marittima for a smaller and more remote destination.

We drove along scenic Tuscan roads overlooking the Gulf of Baratti until we approached a gated stone wall. The only Etruscan village by the sea, the undisputably charming Populonia is home to 18 year-round residents.

After a decadent lunch at the best spot in town, family-run Osteria La Torre di Populonia, we skipped the Etruscan Museum and headed up to the castle where 360 degree views awaited us.

While I inhaled the views, my Italian pointed out the distant islands of Elba, Corsica, Capraia and Gorgona.

We bid farewell to Populonia and made one last stop along a cypress-lined road to pick up wine in Bolgheri.