This year I finally made it to Strasbourg for a glimpse at this city that really knows how to dress up for the holidays. A stroll through Strasbourg’s Christmas markets (open from November 26th to December 26th) invites into the holiday spirit of the city. The oldest in France and one of the first in Europe, these markets date back to 1570. With over 300 merchants spread throughout the city center, stalls line the famous Strasbourg Cathedral where chiming bells mingle with Christmas tunes. The soundtrack alone sets a holiday mood.
Each of the thirteen markets – scattered along the river and filling city squares – reveals its own charm, with limitless arrays of gifts and goodies. Along with festive decorations that bring a touch of Strasbourg home, discover artisanal pottery and locally crafted jewelry, handmade toys and knitwear for children, and even scented candles and beauty products.
Whether simply inhaling the sights and sounds of Christmas in the Alsace or shopping for stocking stuffers, take a petite pause to taste all the delicacies that Strasbourg is best known for. Tarte flambée, anyone?
Just in time for our 10th wedding anniversary this past June, I was assigned a very regal assignment for Condé Nast Traveller. This included a three-day stay at brand new hotel Le Grand Contrôle, set within the grounds of Château de Versailles. WHAT A DREAM! I was thrilled to play queen for a day, or three. With my king by my side.
Immediately upon passing through the doors of Le Grand Contrôle, you feel as though you’ve entered into another era. One in which it’s easy to feel underdressed with the staff buttoned up in stately uniforms.
Upon arriving, our personal butler settled us into our room, or shall I say lavish suite, named after the Necker family. He was a finance minister for Louis XVI and his wife helped to establish a children’s hospital in Paris.
After discovering the desk I decided this would be where I’d write my memoirs. With a feather plume, of course.
The heavenly view from the bathroom looked directly onto Château de Versailles. Even from my morning bath.
The rest of the antique-filled hotel proved just as well-appointed as our suite. From the game room to the downstairs lounge to the dining salons. And might I add that dinner set quite a theatrical stage!
The privilege of staying at Le Grand Contrôle, in addition to feeling like part of the royal court and dining at the helm of Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, is an after-hours guided tour of Château de Versailles.
One of the most magical moments, other than a behind-the-scenes look at the Queen’s Chambers, was walking through an empty Hall of Mirrors. The perfect photo op! It was our wedding anniversary, after all.
Mornings at Le Grand Contrôle included a private guided tour of the Grand Trianon, the Petit Trianon, or the Queen’s Hamlet. Following each visit, I was beginning to understand Marie Antoinette on a much deeper level.
The stay at Le Grand Contrôle felt like living in the most regal period in French history. From a picnic on the grounds of Versailles to a candlelit dinner in our chambers. And let’s not forget the subterranean spa. Read all about my experience in the September issue of Condé Nast Traveller, October issue of CN Traveler US, or online.
In need of a bucolic break from Paris, we recently hopped on a 2-hour train to Bordeaux en route to the vineyards of Saint-Émilion. Specifically into the Premier Grand Cru world of Château Troplong Mondot.
Home became the cozy two-bedroom Vineyard House, one of the three accommodation options at Château Troplong Mondot, and best described as ‘campagne chic’. Their new 5-bedroom château, an ideal setting for friends and family, can be rented privately.
Surrounded by 43 hectares of vineyards (composed of 73% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon) we hopped in a vintage Land Rover to explore the property and discovered a fruit, vegetable, and herb garden, as well as roosting chickens.
The lush landscape at Château Troplong Mondot invited us into a slow and sustainable life, and we welcomed every invigorating moment.
Meals paired with Troplong Mondot wines were enjoyed at the newly renovated restaurant Les Belles Perdrix, helmed by chef David Charrier. Every meal was a discovery in the creative cuisine of this talented chef, certain to be awarded another Michelin star.
What I found most impressive was that the exceptional Troplong Mondot wines were all produced sustainably. During our wine tasting we learned more about Saint-Émilion wines, some of the best in France, and also had a chance to taste the latest harvest.
Specially trained horses plow the fields on this hilltop land, the highest in Saint-Émilion. It’s the incomparable terroir that aids in producing these award-winning wines.
The Medieval and undeniably charming town of Saint-Émilion looms in the distance, just 20-minutes by foot from Château Troplong Mondot.
Mornings were spent winding our way through the paths of this scenic town, one of the most visited in France. We were privileged to have this UNESCO World Heritage Site all to ourselves.
Admiring vineyard-covered Saint-Émilion from above, we spotted Château Troplong Mondot off in the distance.
The time came to bid farewell to our home in the vineyards and set off to neighboring Montagne-Saint-Émilion.
Our first stop was to Château Corbin. This 4th generation estate is home to a pigeon house dating back to 1606.
Before returning to Bordeaux and boarding a train back to Paris, we drove past a stunning castle and couldn’t resist a visit. Château Saint-Georges proved a perfect last tasting in a wine region we will undoubtedly return to.
The beauty of France lies not only in its diverse regions but in the charm and character of its diversity. Having explored many of France’s landscapes, from Normandy to the Côte d’Azur to the Basque, historically rich Alsace remained a mystery. Eager to discover this region, we boarded a train direction east. In just over three hours we made our way to the small village of Saint-Hippolyte, the perfect spot from which to immerse ourselves in the intimacy of the Alsace region. I had long dreamt of visiting this region, famous for its half-timbered houses and where Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc are among the notable white wines produced.
We settled into regal Hotel Val Vignes, the former castle of the Dukes of Lorraine turned religious college, now a hotel where retired Marists continue to reside. From our window, we had a bird’s eye view of Saint-Hippolyte, along with the bicycles that would take us on our journey.
Following a decadent dinner at Val Vignes during which we tasted local wines and produce, we fell asleep to the sounds of silence. The following morning we took to the winding vine-filled paths leading to picture-perfect villages. While the legendary Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometers long, we only planned to bike a fraction of it.
Our first stop was a short 3.4 kilometers away to Bergheim, a fortified town that quickly won both our hearts.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent weaving our way along the bike paths, occasionally stopping to taste the nearly ripe harvest. We ended the bike tour in Ribeauvillé for a proper tasting of Alsatian wines.
The following day we ambitiously biked 20 kilometers along the wine route to Kaysersburg, well known for its authentic character and charm. We were completely smitten and spent the afternoon becoming acquainted with the town’s well-preserved 15th-century towers, bridge, and ramparts.
Being in no rush to return home to Saint-Hippolyte, we stopped at the gem that is Kientzheim, vowing to return.
We took the long road back to Saint-Hippolyte, Hotel Val Vignes standing tall beyond the stretch of vineyards. This weekend sejour was dedicated to the villages of Alsace. Our next visit to the region will include the medieval Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg in the Vosges mountains just west of Sélestat. We’ll also make a stop at La Montagne des Singes or Monkey Mountain, home to over 200 Barbary macaques roaming free in 60 acres of forest. Next time, we’ll plan to drive.
Following our love affair with the vibrant flower-filled villages, we made our way to Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region. Formally the seat of the European Parliament, we quickly noticed how, much like the entire region, the city’s architecture perfectly blended German and French influences. I was left in awe!
With a stop to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg and a walk around the city followed by a heavenly meal of tarte flambée known locally as Flammekueche, we hopped aboard a train back to Paris, fully satiated with Alsatian memories.
For those of you based in Europe, or for anyone planning a visit to France as soon as borders open once again, I’m sharing a few of my favorite French destinations. Aside from Nice and the French Riviera, each of these cities or towns is a 2-3 hour express train ride from Paris. Included are tips on where to stay and dine as well as cultural suggestions. Bon Voyage!
A top destination in Provence is the city of Avignon. I enjoyed my visit there so much that I introduced my mom to this Provençal gem last year. We stayed at the regal hotel La Mirande neighboring the Pope’s Palace. I also suggest renting a car and exploring the stunning landscapes of the Luberon. Hotel recommendations include the luxurious Coquillade Village and 5-star family-run Baumaniere. For a dose of high-class R&R, book a stay at hotel Saint-Remy in the heart of dreamy Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
If you don’t mind a long train ride (just under 6 hours direct), head straight to Nice on the Côte d’Azur. This dynamic city where life takes on a slower pace will charm you with its vivid colors and local cuisine. While you’re here, make sure to visit Cannes, Antibes and Èze, each one uniquely captivating. For fragrance and art lovers, Grasse and Mougins will win your hearts.
Often referred to as a ‘mini Paris’, the elegant city of Bordeaux is in a class of its own. From here you can head to Arcachon and Cap Ferret for a more remote destination, or join the surfers for sunset in Biarritz.
For a taste of island life where fresh oysters are always on the menu, head to Île de Ré just west of La Rochelle. The best way to discover this picture-perfect maze of villages is by bike.
A town that I can’t seem to speak highly enough of is Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy. One of the best ways to explore this wine region is by bike. The capital of the region, Dijon also merits a visit.
Heading north to Normandy, the charm of Honfleur is undeniable. Follow the paths of Impressionist masters Gustave Courbet, Eugene Boudin and Claude Monet, and stop at Étretat for a cliffside spectacle. For a real taste of Normandy, head to Cherbourg and become lost in the surrounding villages. A more sobering experience is taking a walk along the D-Day beaches.
There’s much to explore in Brittany, but one city I highly recommend visiting is Saint-Malo. From here it’s just a quick drive or bus ride to one of France’s treasures, the pre-Romanesque church of Mont Saint-Michel. Stay overnight for a sunset you’ll not soon forget.
If castles thrill you as they do me, you’re in for a real treat in the Loire Valley. A lovely base from which to explore the region is the hillside city of Blois. From there you can drive or bike (25 kilometers) to the Châteaux de Chambord. Another picture-perfect setting is the town of Amboise, home to the Château d’Amboise. Here too sits Leonardo da Vinci’s last home, the Château du Clos Lucé. One of the most regal castles not to miss is the 16th-century masterpiece, the Château de Chenonceau.
Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.
The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.
We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.
Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.
The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.
Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.
Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.
The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.
Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.
Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.
Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.
One of my most beloved parts of France is the Côte d’Azur. This region in the southeast along the Mediterranean coast boasts some of the most charming villages, neighboring the vibrant city of Nice. I recently discovered a few of these hilltop gems in a French Riviera hopping adventure, beginning in Mouans-Sartoux.
I hadn’t previously heard of this old-fashioned village, tucked between Cannes and Grasse and was pleasantly surprised to discover a 16th-century chateau and it’s neighboring modern art museum Espace de l’Art Concret in the former stables. All along the grounds of this castle, unique contemporary art sculptures caught my eye.
The streets of Mouans-Sartoux felt like walking through a living greenhouse, where plants lined the doorways and window sills. Along this walk I discovered gastronomic gem Mon Petit Resto, helmed by stellar chef Franck Cicognola. Next, it was time to head to Grasse.
Fascinated by French fragrances, many of which originate in the town of Grasse, I was eager to discover exactly how these perfumes are created, beginning with their floral compositions. This curiosity led me to the International Perfume Museum Gardens. Inaugurated in 2010, these three hectares of sprawling gardens act as an open-air botanical conservatory. Here I went on a sensory tour of the first plants used to make perfume in Grasse in the sixteenth century, including wild orange, lavender cassia from the mimosa family, myrtle and pistachio mastic. I also discovered that from the seventeenth century, the three major plants used were jasmine, rose and tuberose.
My fragrant journey continued to the heart of Grasse where I met with artisanal perfumer Jessica Buchanan, the creator of 1000 Flowers. Instantly, I fell in love with several of her bespoke fragrances.
The next stop before creating my own custom fragrance at Galimard, one of France’s first perfume houses dating back to 1747, was to the International Perfume Museum.
Founded in 1989, this museum, the only one of its kind in the world, is well situated in Grasse, the birthplace of luxury perfumes. Organized into sections from antiquity to contemporary periods, I discovered the origins of fragrance and how they evolved throughout the years. I even took a fragrant tour of iconic scents.
The next stop in the French Riviera was to hilltop village Mougins, known for its gastronomy and art de vivre.
Mougins is where Pablo Picasso chose to spend the last twelve years of his life and where he died in 1973.
I encountered Picasso’s works, as well as those of Matisse, Chagall, Cézanne, Dalí, and Warhol to name a few, at the Mougins Museum of Classical Art, an awe-inspiring private collection of ancient art from Greece, Egypt and Rome juxtaposed with modern works, numbering over 1,000 pieces in total.
Both from above where I admired tiled rooftops overlooking lush landscapes, to the gallery-filled streets below, Mougins won my heart. I hope to return in June for Les Etoiles de Mougins, an international festival of gastronomy and lifestyle, in tribute to France’s culinary figure Roger Vergé. Until then I’ll happily dine at Le Clos Saint Basile where chef Matthieu concocts seasonal dishes while his sommelier wife Elien selects the wines.
My next stop was to the home of another great artist, this time a writer. Belles Rives hotel opened in 1929, set in the French Riviera town of Juan-les-Pins, once the private villa of F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda.
I even had the good fortune of staying in the room just above where F. Scott and Zelda slept. The views were breathtaking! My custom fragrance which I aptly named Eau d’Azur was ready to be worn as I dressed for dinner at elegant Michelin starred restaurant La Passagère, helmed by Chef Aurélien Véquaud. What a decadent feast, ending with lemon soufflé.
As I sat on the vast terrace overlooking the sea, I thought about the lives of the Fitzgeralds and the wild parties they threw in this exact spot, guests including Rudolph Valentino, Hemingway, Franck Jay Gould, Maurice Chevalier, and Pablo Picasso, and where a green light always shines on the horizon… It was here that F. Scott wrote ‘Tender is the Night’ and gathered inspiration for ‘The Great Gatsby’.
While staying at Belles Rives, I took a walk to the neighboring village of Antibes, famous for its rampart walls. Here Picasso once again took the spotlight at the Picasso Museum, originally the Grimaldi Castle.
Wandering through the colorful alleys of the old town of Antibes, full of cafes and local artisans around every pastel corner, I became even more deeply enamored with this region of France.
A few weeks ago I returned to Provence for an experience in wellness. This time home was luxury lodging Le Saint-Remy in the heart of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The purpose of this trip, other than discovering this charm-ridden historic village where the sun shines year-round, was to try the five-star hotel’s new detox program. With no coffee or rosé wine on the menu, this might prove a challenge.
After settling into my spacious, well-appointed room with a view of the sunlit terrace, the detox program began.
Following a healthy but decadent lunch, I lounged by the pool, waiting for my consultation with a Professor of Chinese Medicine. What makes the spa at Le Saint Remy so unique is the focus on Tui Na, one of the oldest massage techniques in the world. The focus is not merely on relaxation but on an increase in energy and overall well-being.
Feeling rejuvenated after my Tui Na massage, a meditation and a lesson in Qi Gong, a gentle 3,000-year-old exercise that stretches the body and increases blood circulation, I set out to explore the village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The weekly market also captured my attention.
The streets were lined with pastel colored cafes, boutiques and art galleries, setting a perfect Provençal scene.
Close to the captivating landscapes of the Massif des Alpilles mountain range, an eclectic bike tour was on the agenda. What a scenic and not too strenuous ride along the winding paths! My reward was a stunning view of the village of Les Baux-de-Provence in the distance.
After three days of healthy gourmet dining, daily Tui Na massages, invigorating activities and only a sip of rosé (it’s Provence after all) I returned home filled with vitality. Thankfully, I could continue Tui Na in Paris.
How better to discover Provence than via river cruise with Viking? This year for my mom’s birthday, I planned this special trip to a region of France she had not yet visited but often dreamed about. Undoubtedly she would fall in love with the charm of the south during this week-long journey along the Rhône, beginning in Lyon. Not to mention the long, leisurely dinners, terrace views and courses in local culture at every port. Having traveled to Portugal with Viking last winter, I knew she was in for a treat!
Our Viking voyage began in mid-June, perfectly timed for the lavender fields, in bloom only three weeks a year. But first, Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the grandest cultural mecca outside of Paris.
Strolling through Old Lyon, we admired the Renaissance architecture, noted the top restaurants, Lyon being the gastronomic capital of France after all, and took shortcuts through the connecting passages called traboules.
Our Viking guide even took us to the top of Fourvière Hill where the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière stood.
Lyon situated not far from Beaujolais Wine Country, Mom and I decided to indulge in a tasting. We arrived to family-run Château de Nervers, charmed by the restored castle they call home, and sipped an array of wines, favoring a bottle of 2013 Brouilly.
It was time now to set sail, our next stop Vienne, one of the oldest cities in France. Founded by the Romans thanks to Julius Caesar, and once serving as Rome’s major wine port, the city remained rich in Roman monuments. The temple of Augustus & Livia, built around 20-10 BC and dedicated to Emperor Augustus, stood proudly in the old square as if transported directly from Rome.
The following day found us facing the impressive 16th-century Château de Tournon in Tournon-sur-Rhône.
It was here that we truly stepped back into history when we boarded the Tournon Steam Train which carried us on a ride through the scenic landscapes of the Ardeche. The locomotive chugged along the tracks revealing stunning views of the Doux gorges. What a wild ride!
One of the most sleepy towns we encountered along the way was 5th century Viviers. Taking a guided night tour through the cobbled streets and buildings dating back to the Middle Ages proved an awe-inspiring and mystical experience.
The next stop in Provence was the history-laden pastel-hued city of Arles, often called “Little Rome of Gaul”.
Their ancient amphitheater seating as many as 20,000 spectators is still in use for events including bullfights.
Vincent Van Gogh settled in this artist’s haven for a just over a year after leaving Paris. We stopped to admire the cafe famous for his Café Terrace at Night painting from 1888. In a hotel just next door, Picasso was often a guest.
Not far away from Arles sits the hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence. I had already become smitten with it on a previous visit and wanted my mom to experience its unique charm. We also stopped by Carrières de Lumières for the most stunning light show in a former quarry featuring Van Gogh. Magical!
It was now time to inhale the sweet scent of lavender on our full-day trip to these freshly blooming fields.
From the Lavender Museum to a working lavender farm, we learned all about the differences between lavender and lavandin, the many uses of both, and how lavender is harvested to produce essential oil. Our dreams would remain lavender scented for months to come!
Along the route, we stopped at the tiny village of Monieux for lunch at the only restaurant in town. Could this week-long journey have been any more breathtaking? Both mom and I were filled with memories to last a lifetime.
Our last stop was to Avignon where we would stay for another night at a very special address to explore the city.
This past week I took the train 30 minutes northeast of Paris to visit my friend, photographer Catherine O’Hara, who lives in a château. Yes, you read that correctly. Home is a castle dating back to the 17th century. Ready to join me for a visit of this extraordinary property?
After driving along an impressive tree-lined driveway we entered the gate leading to the château. It was love at first sight. Imagine living at such a stately residence! Catherine and her two adorable dogs do just that.
Catherine, along with Percy and Nora, the royal dogs, took me on a grand tour of the gated 40-acre property.
From the orchards where cherries were ripe for the picking to the gardens where residents are growing their own herbs and vegetables, to the vast woods where logs awaited the winter season.
The inviting swimming pool glistened in the sun, while the tennis court made me wish I had brought my racket.
As we strolled the grounds and the dogs frolicked in utter bliss, Catherine recounted the history of the château. Built around 1630 in the reign of Louis XIII by Sebastian le Hardy, it was Louis XIV’s visit around 1651 from which the name Château de la Trousse most likely originates. He is said to have commented that the chateau was “bien troussé” (“well fitted-out”). The estate fell into disrepair following the French Revolution, and in 1865 the current château was constructed and the gardens were redone. Read more about the history, here.
It wasn’t until 1998 that a Dutch owner acquired the property, renovated the château and gardens and created a number of private apartments. By a stroke of luck, Catherine discovered this castle and made it her home.
I felt such peace and tranquility walking the grounds, imagining the rich and varied tales of lives that once occupied the castle, and the privileged lives of those that moved here more recently.
Catherine took me into the château’s kitchen where time stood still, now only used for residents’ festivities.
She described the enchanting sunsets viewed from the back terrace. I only wish I could have stayed long enough to experience one myself.
The common lounge was reminiscent of centuries past, so regal and ornate. We even had a peek into the chapel where many a mass and celebration took place.
It being tea time, we headed up to Catherine’s royal chambers on the top floor of the château, led by her dogs.
Needless to say, her one-bedroom apartment, outfitted with stunning antiques, was indeed fit for a queen.
We toasted to a life well lived (in a castle no less) as I admired the picture perfect views from her window.
For anyone dreaming of life in a château, good news! Catherine is selling her furnished apartment to move to another space on the property where her dogs can roam more freely. View more photos here and contact her at catherineoharaireland@gmail.com for information or to plan a visit.
When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.
We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.
The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.
Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.
As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.
After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.
With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.
Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.
Imagine a city offering plenty of pedestrian streets, stellar restaurants, culture in its many forms and trams as the main mode of transport. And let’s not forget the wine. Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? Welcome to Bordeaux.
Last weekend my Italian and I hopped aboard the train for a two-hour ride from Paris to Bordeaux. We had briefly visited the city en route to Arcachon & Cap Ferret, and I already felt then that it was uniquely special.
Ready to discover what I consider to be the highlights of this cultural mecca, and what has quickly become a favorite French city? If you don’t trust me, you can check in with Bordeaux Tourism.
You’ll be just minutes away from the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, home to both the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux, and where you can book tickets to view one of these impressive performances. On weekends keep an eye out for more intimate classical music concerts starting at only 10€.
EAT: Next door to the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux discoverLe Quatrième Mur, an elegant restaurant with renowned chef Philippe Etchebest at the helm. Both the food and the setting makes for a memorable evening.
Another dining favorite is Cromagnon, open only a year and already one of Bordeaux’s top-rated restaurants. The female chef, originally from Moldova prepares creatively infused combinations including tuna tartar and seared foisgras with a side of almond hummus. I recommend the 7-course tasting menu paired with wine.
Another dining spot that merits a visit is Bordeaux’s newly opened food hall Les Halles de Bacalan. This industrial space features food from all over the globe, including Spanish tapas, a cheese section, a healthy canteen, and of course a truffle stand. The perfect stop before or after a visit to the neighboring Cité du Vin.
VISIT: A trip to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a visit to this exceptional museum and exhibition space dedicated to wine. La Cité du Vin tells many stories both in its innovative design and the permanent exhibition filling over 3,000m2. Prepare to discover the culture and civilizations of wine, ending with a glass of wine and a 360° view of Bordeaux. Make sure to stop at the wine shop on the ground floor where you can find an impressive selection of wines from around the world.
Another museum not to miss is the CAPC musée d’artcontemporain de Bordeaux. This Contemporary Art Museum, once a warehouse, boasts not only a world of artists and exhibitions that will equally intrigue and delight the mind, the rooftop proves a destination in itself. There’s also a restaurant, Café du Musée.
SHOP: Aside from buying wines from the region, there are a few spots that I’d suggest stopping by for a look, a smell, or a taste. The Parfumerie de L’Opéra features its own Bordeaux scent, as well as many other hard to find fragrances. Librairie Mollat is the first independent bookstore in France, and with a sizeable foreign language section, there’s something for every bookworm. La Maison Darricau is a four-generations-old chocolate maker, exclusive to Bordeaux. Their Grain de Sable (hazelnut praline with sea salt) flavor alone is worth the stop!
RELAX: My favorite hammam Les Cent Ciels has just opened in Bordeaux. How better to end a weekend of dining and museum-going than relaxing at a luxurious hammam, complete with body scrub, mud mask and massage?
There’s much more to discover in the elegant and culturally rich Bordeaux, but I’ll leave that until next time.
Every year during the weekend of European Heritage Days the doors of some of Paris’s most exclusive addresses open to the public. The only question is – Which monumental building to discover? This year we decided to visit the Luxembourg Palace, set in the bucolic Luxembourg Gardens and home to the French Senate.
This princely estate was built at the request of Marie de Medicis, with construction completed in 1630. After becoming home to a number of kings and queens, the palace became a prison. It wasn’t until the 1800s that the Luxumbourg Palace adopted a governmental role. In 1958 it became home to the Senate of the Fifth Republic.
Okay, enough about the history of Luxembourg Palace, ready for a tour of the centuries old interior chambers?
Office of the Vice President of the Senate, shown to the public for its patrimonial relevance. The current offices are are at 26 and 36 rue de Vaugirard.
Once called the Great Gallery, this is now the Library Annex. The first European painting museum was open to the public here from 1750 to 1780, and another museum for contemporary art from 1803 to 1815 and 1818 to 1886. The vaulted ceiling reveals a series of paintings by Jacob Jordaens representing the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac. Here too sits a bronze bust by American sculptor Jo Davidson of Literature Nobel Prize winner Anatole France, who once worked in the library.
The Victor Hugo Lounge owes its name to the bust sculpted by Antonin Mercié in 1889 of illustrious writer and Parliamentarian Victor Hugo who was a senator during the Third Republic.
The Conference Hall, a perfect example of Second Empire style, was designed by Alphonse de Gisors. Here sits a throne where Napoleon I once sat. Depictions of the history of France line the walls, along with eights tapestries from the Gobelins illustrating Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Senators now use this elegant 57 meters long room as a lounge in between meetings.
The Senate Chamber built from 1836 to 1841 is supported by eight stucco columns separated by seven statues of prestigious legislators. The 348 seats are allocated in proportion to the number of members in every political group with each senator having a designated seat.
View of the Luxembourg Gardens from the vast library where senators spend time reading and researching.
The Questeur’s Office where three Questeur’s manage the Senate’s administrative matters and run its budget.
Office of the President of the Senate, and thought to be the study of then First Consul Napoleon Bonaparte.
Monumental stairway by Boffrand featuring a stone balustrade, at the mansion used for offical receptions.
If you find yourself in Paris during European Heritage Days, take a tour for yourself! Now, where to next year…
Before the official end of summer, also known as the rentrée in France, we decided to head south for a weekend in Provence. Just over three hours by train from Paris to Aix-en-Provence, our adventures began. Our first stop was Moustiers, considered one of the most beautiful villages of France. We quickly understood why.
After a decadent lunch at one of the top eateries in town, we headed to our next destination, the Gorges du Verdon. This river canyon in southeastern France is considered the most remarkable in Europe, breathtaking from both above and below. We traded the car for a kayak and paddled our way through the gorge, surrounded by dramatic cliffs rising into the sky. What a thrill! We turned back just as the white-water rapids began.
From here we got back on the road, accompanied by the most panoramic views all along the Gorge du Verdon.
By early evening we arrived to our home at lavish 5-star resort Terre Blanche, perfectly situated between Provence and the Côte d’Azur. From here we could visit the charming villages of Fayence and Seillans, or even Sainte-Maxime. But once we discovered the bucolic property where golf carts are the primary mode of transport, and days are spent overlooking Provençal landscapes and dining on an array of local cuisine, we had no intention of leaving. At least not until it was time to return to Paris.
Energized and ready to enter a new season, we stopped for dinner at the pastel-hued city of Aix-en-Provence before jumping back on the high-speed train. This adventure had come to an end but many more awaited.
The energy in Paris is contagious, following a monumental weekend of celebrations beginning with Bastille Day and ending with France winning the World Cup, this being France’s second win, the first in 1998. The air is light and smiles are shared widely, albeit many are weary from a night of revelry. With sparkling eyes from the previous night of fireworks, I joined a few expat friends at a local haunt and the cheering began. What I noticed as I glanced around the crowds gathered at every bar and café, were the number of foreigners cheering for a land they have come to love. Regardless of the winning team, these global games unite us all.
To a soundtrack of honking cars and cheers from all directions, Queen’s song “We Are The Champions” blasting through the air, my Italian and I walked around our Marais neighborhood, the streets pulsing with energy.
Allez les bleus! Flags were eagerly waved from every car and window, some even worn by those more daring.
A celebratory atmosphere took over every café and I could only imagine similar scenes all over the country.
Place de la République proved to be the grandest party of all, aside from what took place on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Cheers to you France, may this uplifting spirit continue long after the high of winning fades.
Welcome to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 along the borders of three regions, Anjou, Touraine and Poitou. Considered the jewel of the Loire region, this is the largest surviving monastery dating from the middle ages. Also a convent, the Abbey welcomed nobles with royal blood for seven centuries. Following the revolution, Napoleon converted Fontevraud into one of France’s most brutal prisons. So it remained until 1963.
One of the first buildings in France to be named a historical monument in 1840, in 2000 the Abbey of Fontevraud was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the Loire Valley. What’s happening in the abbey these days? Let me take you on a little tour…
Set upon 34 acres, there is plenty to explore both inside and outside of this monumental abbey. The feeling while touring the grounds is one of complete tranquility and deep mysticism. Undoubtedly a magical setting.
The church once held up to 400 nuns and is now the resting place of Plantagenet Kings: Henry II and his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, their son, Richard the Lionheart, and Isabelle d’Angoulême, King John’s second wife.
The Renaissance style cloisters were the heart of the monastery, rebuilt in the 16th century. The simple garden of boxwood, grass and flowers is reminiscent of paradise lost, echoing the four rivers in the Garden of Eden.
The Chapter house was where the community gathered to make administative and spiritual decisions. Outside of this room, silence was imposed. The decor, intricate carvings and Renaissance murals of the Passion of Christ by local artist Thomas Pot, signifies the importance of this room.
In addition to the treasure chamber where historical objects are on view from the Abbey’s origins, the nuns’ dormitory hosts contempory art installation “Mort en été” by Claude Lévêque. Enter into a fantastical nightscape, of dreams or nightmares. Or maybe this is a trip on the Loire at sunset…
Art has become an integral part of the abbey. Every year the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud invites artists to take residence, where they can create original works in art, music and film. What an inspirational setting!
In 2014 it became possible to sleep and dine within this majestic setting with the opening of Fontevraud L’Hôtel. Stylishly modern rooms provide the perfect refuge amid this thousand-year-old heritage. Set inside a former priory, dine at the helm of one Michelin star Chef Thibaut Ruggeri at Bocuse d’Or. The restuarant alone makes the abbey worth a visit! Following your meal, take a stroll with only the light of the moon to guide you.
There is much more to highlight at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, including their steps toward sustainability by use of solar energy and vegetable gardens on premises. Digital tools used throughout the tour make the visit interactive and even more memorable. The rest I will leave for you to discover.
Every visit to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny proves a unique experience in what can be considered a floral paradise. My first visit to Monet’s masterpiece was shortly after moving to Paris, my Italian in tow. I couldn’t wait to return, but next time I planned to bring my mom. I knew her artistic soul would find inspiration among the endless blossoms. How better to spend a mother/daughter day than frolicking in the gardens of one of the world’s most revered painters? Plus, Mother’s Day was just around the corner. The perfect gift.
During her recent visit we set off for a guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Visionin the comfort of a luxurious bus, avoiding the hassle of metros, trains and taxis. En route we were presented with information about Claude Monet’s life, exactly how he ended up living in Giverny, his love of flowers and gardening, and the many phases his home underwent following his death. An ideal history lesson while driving through the bucolic French countryside. Upon arrival we were able to skip the line and enjoy more time with Monet.
As soon as we entered the property, my mom’s eyes widened in awe of the hundreds of tulips before us, each section color coordinated and perfectly manicured, just as Monet would have liked. Our tour guide led us along the paths from one garden to another, with many an anecdote to share. Gray skies are not uncommon in Normandy but luckily for us, blue skies prevailed and temperatures were reminiscent of a hot summer day.
Led by our guide, we made our way from Monet’s home and flower garden Clos Normand, to his Japanese inspired water garden, stunning in its own right. Here we discovered the Japanese bridge that appears in many of his paintings, majestic weeping willows and the famous nympheas which continue to bloom throughout the summer. What a setting!
We walked through the gardens, recalling many of Monet’s works hanging in Paris’s Musée de l’Orangerie, vowing soon to return for another look. Meanwhile, what inspired these works blossomed before our eyes, in every hue imaginable. And to think, the gardens had only begun to show off their kaleidoscope of colors! Following tulips come roses, in gardens that continue to reveal their radiant blooms for months to come.
Having been eager to visit Monet’s home and gardens ever since she and my dad first traveled to Paris so many years ago, my mom was thrilled that we took this guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision. And I was thrilled to make one of her travel dreams come true.
With Mother’s Day coming up, take my advice and hop aboard Paris City Vision to Giverny. You’ll thank me!
The Louvre being the largest art museum in the world also makes it the most intimidating. With so much history packed under one roof, over 38,000 works of art to be exact, where to begin? Even getting in can be an experience in anxiety. Thankfully, starting March 30th you can skip the line and visit this majestic museum with a personal guide. The Paris Guy will lead you and a small group through the many galleries. Prepare for a fun, intimate and insightful experience, along with a few secrets revealed… After all, Paris is one of the culture capitals of the world! And The Paris Guy, with their expert guides, is well aware of this.
Did you know the Louvre used to be a fortress? In the medieval age, the Louvre was a military base before it became a royal residence. Given its regal history, the French Crown Jewels are elegantly on display in the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon. It was tradition to have a crown customized for each new Coronation in France, rather extravagant, don’t you think? With sparkles in your eyes, learn all about the history of the royal family.
Find out why Leonardo da Vinci’s famous portrait of Lisa Gherardini, titled Mona Lisa, is one of the most recognized works of art in existence. She’s thought to be a self-portrait, given the resemblace to da Vinci. Does anyone really know whether she’s happy or sad, or why she was painted in the first place? Maybe the guide does… Mona Lisa aside, discover other greats by Renaissance artist Botticelli, master of the 16th Century Venetian school Titian, artist Veronese, and works by the playboy Raphael.
The Louvre Museum officially opened its doors to the public in 1793. Not having been in years, I’m looking forward to taking an animated tour with The Paris Guy, and discovering many of the Louvre’s secrets. And when in Rome… there’s The Roman Guy.
Every winter I try to discover another mountain destination where I can breathe in fresh alpine air, dine on savory meals (including lots of cheese) and practice skiing. While last year found me in Courchevel, this year I became completely charmed by Les Gets, a Savoyard village in the Rhône-Alpes region of southeastern France. What makes this village between Lake Geneva and Mont Blanc so special is the intimacy you feel upon arrival. Les Gets is not merely an artificial ski station but a mountain destination filled with soul, all year round.
I immediately felt at home at the charming four-star hotel La Marmotte. Family run since 1947, the hotel is situated at the foot of the slopes and has in recent years expanded to include 63 rooms, four restaurants (including one in the mountains) and the luxurious Séréni-Cimes Spa. La Tapiaz hotel was added in 2011 offering an additional eight chalet-style rooms. I was impressed with the design and comfort of each of the unique rooms, ideal for a romantic getaway with plenty of suite options for families. And the restaurants… Aside from trekking up to the mountains for purposes of sport, no need to leave the hotel. Not to mention the spa where I could easily spend every evening between the hammam and jacuzzi. Heaven!
From La Marmotte I headed up for a tour of the landscape, this time via racket walk. Harder than it sounds!
With plenty of snowfall, the views were breathtaking! I could imagine the stunning scenes come springtime.
Appearing like an oasis was La Marmotte’s restaurant La Paika, high up on the slopes and well worth the climb to feast on traditional dishes and fish grilled on their wood-fire barbecue.
I forced myself to leave the hotel to explore the village, and stopped to buy a few local Haute-Savoie specialties, including cheese. Apparently my fondue feast at restaurant La Pivotte only whet my appetite.
What this gem of a village also has to offer is the impressive Mechanical Music Museum. Opened in 1988, this museum houses over 550 musical instruments from around the world, including chimes, street organs and mechanical pianos. Prepare to be both amazed and entertained! Yet another reason to plan a trip to the mountain haven of Les Gets.
This past year has been an adventurous one and I feel overwhelming gratitude. Beginning with a new year in Sicily, my Italian and I have explored Miami’s Faena District, discovered Lisbon and Sintra in Portugal, encountered Valencia, Spain, and spent memorable birthday celebrations in Sardinia, Italy, in addition to visits home to the Hamptons and Cinque Terre. For blogging and writing projects I skied in breathtaking Courchevel, explored Lombardia, Italy, and visited Mont-Saint Michel by night, among other trips. And let’s not forget beautiful Budapest! One last trip before a family Christmas beneath the Florida sun was to a château in Brittany. All the while Kasia Dietz handbags journey with me as the brand continues to grow.
A four hour drive from Paris, or much faster via train, we arrived to the city of Rennes. From here we discovered remote and romantic Château du Bois Glaume. This family-run castle was the perfect weekend escape.
Our regal room overlooked the chapel of this charming castle. Immediately we felt at home, and like royalty.
While my Italian went for a run in the late fall foliage, I explored the grounds, camera in hand. That night, dinner for two was served in the elegant dining room, accompanied only by the castle’s cat.
During our stay we learned the history of this château, and how it’s part of a collection of family-run French castles converted into bed-and-breakfasts, each offering no more than five rooms. I immediately became fascinated with Bienvenue au Château and couldn’t wait to discover others. Perhaps château hopping will become a theme for the new year?
Our last visit after stopping for crêpes in the picturesque village of Rochefort-en-Terre, was to Josselin with its stunning medieval castle set upon the river. The perfect last stop before returning to Paris.
As I count my blessings for the year that has passed and prepare to fill 2018 with beautiful memories, may you live your own fairy tale, château optional. Wishing you a happy, healthy and adventure filled new year!
This year marks 100 years since American soldiers entered World War I, aiding their French allies in winning the war. To commemorate the Centennial of the Great War, I recently joined Atout France for a trip to the Lorraine and Meuse regions of France, the setting for many hard fought battles. Our journey began at the train station in the city of Metz. The Neo-Roman architecture is one example of the power during the German empire.
From here we discovered the Centre Pompidou-Metz, a modern contrast to this medieval Gallo-Roman city which includes Saint Etienne Cathedral with stained glass windows by Marc Chagall and the Porte des Allemands (German Door). The latter was named for the Teutonic Knights who founded a hospital nearby in the 13th century.
From Metz we drove 80 kilometers to Verdun in the Meuse Argonne region, where I enjoyed a room with a view of the city at hotel Les Jardins du Mess, not to mention a decadent dinner. In the morning it was time to explore.
The first stop in discovering exactly how grueling life was for the soldiers during the Great War was at Butte de Vauquois. It is here that mine warfare created massive craters in the land, beneath which German soldiers built a network of galleries. Soldiers often spent entire weeks within these dark, damp tunnels. Hard to fathom.
Our next stop was to Romagne ’14-’18, a museum created through 30 years of collecting wartime objects within the woods around Romagne-sous-Montfaucon. This is the life work of Jean-Paul de Vries, a man with many a tale to tell. Collections of grenades, rifles and helmets to items including combs, forks, watches, shoes and love letters, tell the story of the soldiers’ everyday life.
American soldiers officially entered the war on April 6th 1917, mobilizing over 4 million able-bodied men. This followed their two years of aiding injured French soldiers as ambulance drivers. Victory with the aid of American soldiers in 1918, ended the mine warfare in Verdun. The American Monument at Montfaucon d’Argonne is one of many testaments to America’s loyalty to France. This 60-meter high monument commemorating American victory in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive, faces the front line of the American First Army on the morning of September 26, 1918, the start of the offensive.
To commemorate the 14,246 American soldiers who lost their lives during World War I, we spent a solemn evening at the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery. It was November 11th 2017, and the largest American graveyard in Europe held a ceremony with 3,000 candles in remembrance of these soldiers. I will never forget this deeply touching experience. Next year for the Centennial on September 23, 2018, one candle will be lit for every soldier who fought alongside the French. This event will honor the promise made by General Pershing: “Time will not dim the glory of their deeds”.
That night we found refuge at Hostellerie du Château des Monthairons, a family-run castle that once served as as a hospital for US troops in 1915. The perfect place to reflect.
The following day began at the Battlefield of Verdun, the setting for the most intense warfare that took place during WWI. This French and German battlefield remained in French hands, but not without horrific losses of life from both sides. The Battle of Verdun in 1916 lasted 300 days and 300 nights with non-stop fighting. Tragically, more than 300,000 soldiers died or were considered missing, with over 400,000 French and German soldiers wounded. A visit to Verdun might be the only way to truly comprehend this unprecedented loss of life from both sides.
The Ossuary is one of the national French memorials to the First World War, and a remarkable tribute to brave men. Here the remains of 130,000 unknown soldiers are laid to rest. Whether from the German or French side, these soldiers are united as men who lost the battle for their lives.
Nearby Fort Vaux is a symbol of French heroism. It was here that Major Sylvain-Eugene Raynal, after running out of water, medical supplies and food for his men, sent several messages via homing pigeons. It was his last pigeon that brought relief for his soldiers. This pigeon named Le Vaillant, released from Fort Vaux on June 4, 1916, was awarded the Order of the Nation. A feat worth the honor!
The Verdun Memorial provides a comprehensive history lesson on the Battle of Verdun. You are greeted by the image of a Verdun soldier, unaware whether he is French or German. This recently renovated museum is filled with original photographs, bone-chilling eyewitness accounts, and 2,000 wartime items. Personal items include crafts made by the soldiers during many idle hours, and letters sent home to worried families.
This journey through the Lorraine and Meuse regions presents both a history lesson and brings us closer to the heroism and tragedies of all these young soldiers, regardless of the borders that defined them. A journey worth taking for all of us, especially for the Centennial of World War I.
Following my day and night discovering the secrets of Mont Saint-Michel with Centre des monuments nationaux, we headed to nearby factory Saint-James, one of France’s oldest and most famous brands which continues to manufacture locally. Being a designer myself, I was interested in discovering the history and makings of this label, located in Saint-James, a commune in Lower Normandy, 20 kilometers from Mont Saint-Michel. This is the brand that made nautical stripes famous, and I was about to find out how it all began.
How and when was Saint-James born? Around 1850, the Legallais family started to spin and dye locally produced wool. They resold this wool to the haberdasheries of Brittany and Normandy, later as woolen shirts which turned into the now famous fisherman’s sweater.
In 1950, the company changed hands and new owner Julien Bonte began manufacturing cardigans and sweaters, including the famous “Real Breton Fisherman’s Sweater” knit in pure wool. This became “the seafarers’ second skin”. Along with his son and much determination, Julien grew the company, renaming it “Tricots Saint-James” in 1970.
Julien’s son Bernard grew the company further in 1977 by building a new plant with an 1,800 square meter workshop and 300 square meters of office space. Tricots Saint-James also expanded its product range to include sea-themed seasonal attire for women. They were known across France as the knitwear leader, including a 100% cotton collection.
In 1989 Saint-James celebrated its 60-year anniversary as well as 100 years of Léon Legallais. In commemoration, they modernized their logo and knit the biggest sweater in the world, 8 meters high, and 14 meters from one sleeve to the other. Impressive! In 2001 the company further expanded and shirts, jackets and trousers were added to its wares.
In 2005, Tricots Saint-James received the trophy for “Ethics and Governance” following a company staff buyout. In the words of Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin, “The Company was chosen to recognize the good governance represented by Mr. Bernard Bonte (President until December 5, 1990) transferring power and capital to the employees, as well as the significant development of the company in France and abroad. The company’s takeover project of 1990 was declared a success for both its development and staff growth.”
What I noticed while touring the factory was the meticulous attention to detail. Every employee trains for over a year, taking pride in their work as each piece is carefully crafted by hand. Observing the process from weaving the wool or cotton to preparing the final product for shipment was fascinating. It’s no wonder Saint-James has such a stellar reputation!
These days Saint-James sweaters, shirts, scarves and dresses are available not only in Mont Saint-Michel, but in Nice, Paris, Saint-Malo, Strasbourg and Lyon, as well as around the globe. Their timeless stripes and style continue to dress the world! What’s more, when you buy one of these shirts, you’re supporting the cloister restoration project! “The Tricots Saint James company is also associated with this major national heritage project with an exceptional and unique product-sharing operation. From 15 April to 15 October 2017, the “Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey” striped jerseys are on sale in the Saint James distribution network in France and abroad (Korea, USA and Japan), and in 3 bookshop-boutiques of the network (at Mont-Saint-Michel Abbey, the Alignments of Carnac and the Towers of La Rochelle). For every striped jersey sold at the price of €45, Saint James pledges to donate €2.50 to the Centre des monuments nationaux for the cloister restoration project.”
I knew I would return to Mont Saint-Michel, a marvel of Norman Gothic architecture, after spending an incredible day last February exploring France’s first World Heritage site, this time to enjoy the sunset. With the ease of a new Intercités train to Villedieu-les-Poêles connecting to a bus directly to Mont Saint-Michel, I joined the National Monuments Center and jumped aboard.
We arrived to a rainy and gray abbey, quite a contrast to the sunny day I experienced on my last visit, but equally as enchanting.
After a private tour of the abbey, fellow bloggers and I had the privilege of meeting Philippe Bélaval, the President of 100 monuments in France for the Ministry of Culture, at a lunch in the Salle Belle-Chaise. I imagined all that went on in this grand hall so many centuries ago!
After lunch and a lesson in the abbey’s history, we had a look at the cloister restoration where workers were busy waterproofing the garden and the galleries, including cleaning the numerous columns. All the while it’s open to the public, impressive! Archaeological excavations revealed the original level of the floors, 25 to 30 cm below the level that was in place. The 260 square meters of the “Merveille” cloister were once occupied by a garden which the abbey plans to reclassify. We carefully walked around the space where so much care was being taken in the refurbishment. I was in awe of the work being done and all the attention to detail. Aiding in this ambitious 11 month long restoration project estimated to be completed in 2018, is the French Heritage Society. Locally based company Saint James company has also stepped in, donating €2.50 for every striped jersey sold at €45. Even more reason to love this French brand! The public too can assist by making an online donation on www.mapierrealedifice.fr.
Our tour continued into the regal halls of Mont Saint-Michel, deep into the soul of this 13th century abbey.
After an in-depth visit of the interior, it was time to discover the views from above. We climbed the stairs up to the top of the abbey and were rewarded with a stunning vista! An experience I would certainly never forget.
Last week I discovered the most chic winter destination in France. Courchevel is a ski resort in the French Alps. Part of Les Trois Vallées, it’s the largest in the world. Courchevel alone is made of up of three levels, the highest being 1850 meters up in the mountains. This was where we were headed. Having only skied in the U.S. and Italy, I was looking forward to the adventure.
Just over three hours after leaving Paris I arrived to hotel Le Strato, set high up in the mountains. This five-star alpine hideaway revealed stunning views of the Alps, with skiers passing by on the paths just outside my window. I was in snow-capped heaven! I breathed in the fresh mountain air as I settled into my luxurious room.
This family run hotel is one-of-a-kind. Opened in 2009 by “a young lady of over 80,” it was the realization of a dream for Jeannine Boix-Vives. It’s named for the Strato skis that had contributed so much to the Rossignol brand’s fame, a company once owned by Jeannine and her family. As she so wisely states “dreaming alone will not determine your destiny.” Every detail in the 25 suites is taken into consideration, from the elegant modern decor to the unique comforts (catching up on the news from the bathtub, for one). The unrivaled spa uses Sothys products and features two saunas, a steam-room, jacuzzi, gym and indoor pool. (My signature massage was heavenly!) I was thrilled too, to take an invigorating yoga class, adding to the bliss I already felt.
Symbolic of the three generations running Le Strato, family paintings hang in the library, dining room and along the corridors, complimented by wooden sculptures and artwork collected from around the world.
What makes Le Strato even more of a haute destination is its Michelin-starred gastronomy. Restaurant Baumanière 1850 is run by Jean-André Charial(owner of the famous Michelin 2-star restaurant l’Oustau de Baumanière in Baux-de-Provence). With executive chef Lowell Mesnier working closely with chef Glenn Viel and Jean-André Charial, the food alone is worth the trip. Having already tasted Glenn’s cuisine on my visit to Baumanière, I knew I would dine like a queen. Every evening I looked forward to the gourmet feast following a cocktail at the cozy bar, live music filling the space. Breakfast in the same regal setting was an introduction into local tastes.
Ready to discover the mountains, I headed to the ski room for my gear, booked a teacher to guide me through the slopes and headed down the hill directly from the hotel. With many blue pistes to choose from, as well as a handful of red for those more advanced, I felt completely at ease. This was paradise!
Guided by the sun, we skied the smooth snow all the way down to the village and took the chair lift back up, with views of Mont Blanc in the distance. It took a few years, but finally I was feeling that ski high unique to those dedicated to the sport. I was elated and couldn’t wait to return with my expert Italian skier!
I even encountered art in the mountains during my first ever racket walk, a healthy alternative to skiing. “Doggy John” by painter and sculptor Julien Marinetti stands 175 cm at 2238 meters high.
Before the return to Paris I took a petit pause on the terrace, filled with gratitude at having experienced this tasteful family chalet that honored one woman’s life, while providing happiness to so many others.
During these seven years living my own love story in the City of Lights, I’ve read quite a few others. One of the most romantic tales to date is the latest novel by international bestselling author Alyson Richman.
The Velvet Hours takes you into the lives of two women in very different circumstances, connected by a common thread. Inspired by the true account of an abandoned Parisian apartment, Richman composes a glamorous love story set in the period of the Belle Epoque. In colorful accounts of her life, Marthe de Florian recounts this story to granddaughter Solange. Marthe describes herself as “A woman of the demi-monde, the half-world. Caught between beauty and darkness. In some ways trapped, but in other ways completely free.“
As the mysterious life of this beautiful courtesan is revealed to her, Solange tries to make sense of her own. She finds refuge in the company and stories of her grandmother as Germany invades France and Europe prepares for war. In time, she learns the secrets of her family history, and discovers her own unique path.
In lieu of Valentine’s Day, I share this book with you, written in Richman’s characteristic poetic prose. You can easily imagine yourself walking the streets of Paris, intertwined between the lives of Marthe and Solange. The Velvet Hours is certain to become a favorite of any romantic Francophile.
Often when I go out to eat and love a particular dish I wonder, “Could I make this at home?” I usually never end up trying, not knowing the chef’s tricks in the kitchen, afraid my attempts will fall short. I could certainly read my friends’ cookbooks and learn their unique recipes, but what about being taught by the chefs themselves? And what about wine pairings? I know which wines I like, but when to drink them, and with what dish? That’s when I discovered Montmartre based cooking school Cook’n With Class Paris. As well as many classes in cooking and baking, they offer a French Food and Wine Pairing, perfect! Let the food and wine education begin.
I sat at the table overlooking the kitchen with six dinner companions from around the world, many of whom were regulars. I quickly learned that the chef owned and ran a successful French restaurant for many years in the US, evident in his skillful movements. As he cooked the meal, he described the dishes and how to prepare them, answering any questions we had. And all we had to do was watch. Following an appetizer and champagne, the first course was split pea velouté and buttered croutons. While he served the dish, our expert sommelier came over to explain his choice of wine and the region from where it came.
While I savored every bite and learned about wines I knew little about, and how best to pair them, I was intrigued with the preparation. This master chef explained why plates are kept hot in the best restaurants, and took every care in the presentation of each dish.
The next dish of seared scallops with crunchy celery, rocquefort dressing and candied orange peels was my favorite, and I made sure to take notes on the preparation, asking the chef questions during the plating. How lucky I felt to have a seasoned French chef cooking right before my eyes!
The main dish of black legs chicken fricassée with creamy leek risotto was delicious, as was the wine it was paired with. In the French dining tradition, a cheese plate followed, along with a lesson on cheese. The meal ended with a heavenly tarte tatin paired with just the right sweet wine. Not only did I dine like a queen, I learned quite a bit about food and wine that would serve me in my own kitchen.
I’m already planning on heading south to visit their second school Cook’n With Class Uzes, and learn the tricks of the trade by chef Eric Fraudeau. Stay tuned!
This year I vow to spend more time in the kitchen, enhancing my creativity not only in my designing but in my cooking. Lucky for me, I know quite a few culinary masters and food writers and have collected their Paris inspired cookbooks. Having them within close contact should I need any help gives me all the more reason to whip up their recipes. So who are these chefs I’m lucky enough to call friends? Allow me to introduce them.
David Lebovitz doesn’t need much of an introduction. Many already read his well-known food blog and follow him in his Parisian adventures of the last 10+ years. In addition to running into David at local flea markets, I more recently caught up with him at a brunch at Treize Bakery, where he signed copies of his new book My Paris Kitchen, of which I snagged a copy. In this, his latest cookbook, David remasters the French classics in 100 sweet and savory recipes. I think I’ll try my hand at Coq au vin…
One of my favorite cookbook authors is Toronto based Laura Calder, who’s quite the culinary star in her home country, having had her own cooking show. We met at a girls’ lunch several years ago and have remained good friends ever since. I even helped Laura design the table setting for one of her many Parisian dinner parties. (She doesn’t believe in paper napkins.) The latest of her cookbooks that I’ve added to my collection is Paris Express. I’m sure I’ll be able to handle a few of these quick, modern recipes and make both Laura and myself proud.
I met California born Emily Dilling through the expat network. Her blog Paris Paysanne is dedicated to Paris produce markets and the people behind them. Her passion for artisanal and craft food grew into her book, My Paris Market Cookbook. Not only does she share her market recipes, but the book is filled with farm-to-table restaurants, natural wine bars, organic breweries and urban gardens. The perfect handbook for food lovers!
Yoga always seems to create positive connections in my life. One of them is Lora Krulak, a nutritionist, chef and fellow New Yorker. I was impressed by all her knowledge on health and wellness, and quickly she became my (and many others) nutritional muse. Her blog provides sage advice about eating and living well. In her book Veggies for Carnivores, Lora demonstrates how easy and exciting it is to cook with vegetables, while taking us on her around-the-world travels.
Rebecca Leffler and I met years ago at a Parisian soirée and became fast friends. In the last few years, this east coast expat has created quite a name for herself in what she calls the “Green & Glam” movement. Her blog La Fleur Paris NY shares her discoveries, recipes, events and food demos in both Paris and New York. Rebecca’s most recent contribution to green living is a collection of 150 recipes in her book Green, Glam & Gourmande (in French) and Très Green, Très Clean, Très Chic, the English version. Warning: uncontrollable laughter may ensue.
I met Ann Mah at one of her book signings at the American Library in Paris after reading her first book, Kitchen Chinese. I was interested to learn more about this woman who writes so engagingly about food and travel. Her blog is a collection of tales from Paris and New York, as told by cooking. Her latest book Mastering the Art of French Eating, documents Ann’s journey around France while discovering the truth behind the country’s regional dishes, recipes included. Rumor has it she’s finishing her third book…
I could very well relate to Kristen Beddard when we first me. An ambitious New Yorker ready to plant seeds in Paris, but how? Over time she settled in to her new life, found her path, and planted her kale seeds. Through her blog The Kale Project, this “Kale Crusader” as The New York Times coined her, succeeded in bringing this forgotten superfood back to the French capital. In her memoir Bonjour Kale, she endearingly articulates her story of life and love in Paris, while sharing her fondness for kale through recipes collected since childhood.
Hope these inspiring friends will help you hone your skills in the kitchen, and keep you healthy and well fed. Follow along as I share my culinary adventures on Instagram.
After Paris, Nice is the largest city of art and culture in France. And if you like art as much as I do, then you must make a stop in this culturally rich city, where art finds a home, even around the city streets. There is so much to do and see in the capital of the Côte d’Azur, where does one even begin? By stopping in the Tourism Office you can certainly gather enough information to keep you busy for days. Or you can use this list of my top things to do, see and eat. Some of this advice comes from my Nicoise friend, and who better to trust than a local?
SLEEP: To wake up surrounded by art and history, and with a view of the sea, stay at Le Negresco. This is the Art Hotel in Nice, and an experience you won’t ever forget. You can read all about my stay, here. If you’re on a budget, another artful option is Hotel Windsor, where each room is designed by a different artist.
VISIT: With over fifteen museums and dozens of galleries, which are most worth visiting? That remains a matter of opinion depending on interest, but ones that I would not miss are Musée Matisse, exhibiting one of the world’s largest collections of Henri Matisse’s works, Musée Marc Chagall, dedicated to much of the artist’s religious work, and the Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art, highlighting the work of more recent artists including sculptor and painter Niki de Saint Phalle. I recommend picking up a 48 hour Museum Pass which will gain you affordable access to these and many other museums and galleries. Keep in mind that most are closed on Tuesdays.
DO: To really get to know a city, stroll its morning markets. This is where you’ll interact with the locals and simply observe the life of the city. On Cours Saleya in the Old Town, there’s a market every morning from 6:30am. The most famous is the Marché aux Fleurs, or Flower Market, from Tuesday to Sunday. This market is the most well known, since it was in Nice that the first wholesale flower market in the world appeared in 1897. Here too you can purchase fruits and vegetables until around 1:30pm, with the flowers being sold until 5:30. If you’d like an expert guided tour of the food market followed by a cooking class, Rosa at Les Petits Farcis is your girl!
EAT: The specialities of Nice include pissaladière, bread with a topping of caramelised onions, olives, garlic and anchovies, and socca, a sort of fried chickpea cake, much like the farinata I often eat in Cinque Terre. Both of these you can try at many cafes in the Old City. Here are food expert David Lebovitz’s favorite socca spots in Nice. As for where to dine, one local spot serving the best plate of pesto pasta I’ve ever eaten outside of Italy, is La Merenda. It’s a tiny restaurant in the Old Town that doesn’t take reservations, but worth the wait. Also be sure to stop by Maison Auer for the best candied fruit and chocolate covered almonds in France, among other delicacies!
WALK: Be sure to walk around the Old Town and get lost in the maze of streets lined with pastel colored buildings. The Promenade des Anglais is the famous stretch in front of the sea. Follow it all the way to Castle Hillfor the best views of the city and its surroundings. Climb the free elevator at the seaside; look for the ‘Ascenseur de la Chateau‘ sign. From the top you’ll have a view of Nice all the way to Antibes, and from the other side you can see Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
My last trip to the Côte d’Azur was in March. I spent a little time in Nice but was eager to become better acquainted with this, the region’s capital. Aside from its Mediterranean climate, it’s a city of art and culture, another reason to fall in love with it. To properly immerse myself in the world of French art, where better to stay than at the historic hotel Le Negresco. Centrally located between Cannes and Monaco, it sits on the famous Promenade de Anglais. It is here in this National Historic Monument, that the French works of art from Louis XIII to modern art, have a home. I knew I would be in good company.
Upon entering, the grandeur of this hotel is hard to describe. I’ve stayed in many beautiful hotels around the world, but Le Negresco is in a class of its own. The Versailles Lounge alone takes your breath away, with Louis XIV’s portrait, marble floors, hand-painted ceiling, and elegant furnishings. The fireplace too, is original. I could imagine the decadent events having taken place in this salon since Henri Negresco opened the hotel in 1913, now over 100 years old.
Next I entered the Royal Lounge, centrally situated beneath a large glass dome. This is Negresco’s soul, and you can certainly feel it. Once an elegant ballroom, it’s now an elaborate event space, displaying portraits of French royalty, including Napoleon III. A stunning Baccarat chandelier provides the centerpiece. Fittingly, the hotel’s 93 year old owner Jeanne Augier’s portrait also has a place on the wall. After all, it is she who welcomes each guest to her home, which she has taken great pride in decorating. She lives on the top floor with her cat, and ensures that this private, family run hotel remains at the highest 5-star level in comfort and cuisine.
A good friend from Nice had often spoken about the restaurants at Le Negresco, particularly the vibrant and colorful La Rotonde. It’s in fact an 18th century carousel with wooden horses circling the restaurant. My eyes opened wide in amazement as I entered this space and understood immediately why it’s such a warm and welcoming place dedicated to families. The terrace opens up to the sea and this is where I chose to have lunch, accompanied by the sun. Breakfast would be enjoyed in the carousel.
Le Negresco is also known for its haute cuisine. Le Chantecler is Nice’s finest restaurant, with two stars in the Michelin Guide under the culinary expertise of chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. He defines his cuisine and style as “inspired by Provence, with the respect of its products and traditions”. This is THE place for French gastronomy, boasting a wine cellar of over 15,000 bottles, with woodwork dating back to 1751. After dinner you can unwind at the neighboring bar with live music and a good digestif.
With each of the 96 rooms and 21 suites uniquely decorated with period furniture, I was eager to take a closer look. Mrs Augier being an art connoisseur and collector, walking through the hotel and up the four floors feels much like being in a museum, with artwork from Salvador Dali and Sonia Delaunay, tapestries from Raymond Moratti and sculptures from Niki de Saint Phalle, to name a few. And the rooms? Timeless perfection.
I felt very much at home in my room overlooking the Bay of Angels and knew I would return to this Art Hotel called Le Negresco.
The following day it was time to visit the medieval town of Carcassonne, located in the Landuedoc region. I was eager to explore this World Heritage Site. Arriving just in time for lunch, I opted for the speciality of the region. Cassoulet is a slow-cooked casserole traditionally made with white beans and pork. Delicious! Onwards to the main attraction, the medieval citadel La Cité. First built in Gallo-Roman times, various additions were made in the 13th and 14th centuries. It’s hard even to describe the grandness of this hilltop fortress.
Within the walled Cité sits Château Comtal, a 12th-century castle. Led by an expert guide, I discovered this castle and its ramparts, which provided an incredible view of the town. I was blown away (quite literally in fact) by all the history. For a view from afar, I headed to the River Aude, followed by a walk around Carcassonne’s center.
I also discovered the historic Canal du Midi, excavated in the XVIIth century, which links the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. I watched as numerous boaters used this main waterway along their route through Carcassonne. In 1996 it became a UNESCO World Heritage site.
As the sun was preparing to set, it was time to head back to the citadel. Just opposite the 12th-century Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse, and a 2-minute walk from the Château Comtal, sat Hôtel de la Cité, my home for the night. What a regal setting! I already knew it would be hard to leave in the morning.
I toured the elegant hotel, where once upon a time Winston Churchill slept, as did Princess Grace and Walt Disney. Now it was my turn to slumber within this Neo-Gothic mansion built in the XIX century. I couldn’t stop staring at the views from my balcony, rightfully so as the light kept changing and dusk settled in, the town illuminated in the distance.
My next stop was dinner at La Barbacane, their Michelin star restaurant. Yes, I did feel like a princess in a castle. Thankfully, it wasn’t yet midnight and the dream continued.
After returning to Paris for a quick change of clothes, I once again boarded the train, high speed ahead, direction south. Can one ever travel too much? Considering I once spent 13 months on the road, I think not. There is so much more to discover beyond the City of Lights, and along with the France Tourism Board I was well on my way to discovering. In just under 3 hours I arrived to Avignon.
The first stop was lunch at a riverfront restaurant with quite a history. Guinguette de Vieux Moulin, located at the foot of the tower Philippe le Bel on the Rhone, a few miles from Avignon, opened in 1901. It was here that a bridge once linked the castle of the popes to Villeneuve les Avignon. In 1761, as the name suggests, 6 mills were installed, 3 for water and 3 for wind. In days past this was the place for fishing competitions and nautical games, now a place of relaxation and classic French cuisine.
Onwards to the highlight of the day, a 2,000 year old aqueduct bridge. Pont du Gard is a 30 minute drive away, and worth every mile. Approaching the bridge from a distance, I was completely taken with the enormity and elegance of this ancient Roman structure. It’s hard to believe that this three level masterpiece, 360 meters long and 50 meters high was built in only 5 years.
This massive bridge provided those living in Nîmes with running water for close to 5 centuries, making this a highly prestigious city in the south of France. Much of it was used for their bath houses. Water was collected from the Eure river at the foot of Uzès. Led by my expert tour guide I had the opportunity to discover the canalization, walking inside the bridge along the exact path where the water flows. Not to mention the views!
Surround by 408 acres of a stunning natural landscape, this is the perfect place to spend an afternoon swimming, canoeing, enjoying the flight of Bonelli’s Eagles, that is, if you’re lucky enough to catch a glimpse.
What makes it even more of a destination is that the Pont du Gard was the first French site to be awarded ‘Grand Site de France’ in 2004. This great honor presented by the Ministry of Ecology and Sustainable Development, safely combines tourism, local life and the protection of nature. There are now 14 sites in France with this distinguished title. What’s more, this is a Unesco Heritage site since 1985.
After several hours learning about the structure and admiring its grandeur, I dug deeper into the history of this Roman aqueduct by way of the museum. I could have easily spent the rest of the afternoon there but it was time now to continue the journey. I vowed to return for the annual music festival in July. What a venue! Now it was time to end the day a short drive away in the village of Castillon-du-Gard.
As soon as I entered into the world of Le Vieux Castillon, located in the heart of this small Medieval village, I was enchanted. Newly renovated in minimalist elegance, this 32-room boutique hotel resides in a Renaissance building. Its history is felt in every room, within the spacious gourmet restaurant, through the courtyard and to the pool which overlooks the picturesque Provençal landscape. Just in time for sunset, I perched on a lounge chair to enjoy the view, and a moment of zen.
Needless to say, when morning came, I didn’t want to leave this tranquil paradise. But it was time to discover another famous French destination.
Is it possible to find the tranquility of the Mediterranean hidden in the Atlantic Ocean? Just west of La Rochelle sits the island of Île de Ré. Having heard much about this natural landscape boasting sandy beaches and 10 charming villages connected by cycling paths, I decided it was time to explore. This French summer hideaway seemed like the ideal weekend away. As is often our preference, we chose to visit off season.
In just over three hours we arrived via train to La Rochelle. Since 1988 the city is linked to Île de Ré by bridge, providing easy access by car or shuttle bus. We chose the latter, since the main mode of island transport is by bicyle. No car is needed. The afternoon was cloudy and windy, with hints of blue setting the scene for the next few days. We chose to stay in Saint-Martin-de-Ré, the island’s capital and what is considered one of the most picturesque of the villages. We arrived easily by bus and settled into our elegant hotel on the harbor. As it was the weekend, the village was bustling with locals and second home owners taking advantage of the Indian summer. Nineteen miles long and two to three miles long, this small island with a population of 18,000, grows to 130,000 during the summer months. Soon, I would discover its appeal.
The following day we rented bicycles and began our journey along the coast. Passing marshes and salt farms we made our way to the smallest of the villages, Loix. Thus began our love affair with the island. From there we rode south to Ars-en-Ré, a larger village with an active port. After lunch we met a few friends from Paris (fortunate are those with family homes in such a beautiful natural setting), and joined them at the beach near La Couarde-sur-Mer. On the path home, we rode through countless vineyards, the season’s harvest ripe for picking. The landscapes all so beautifully preserved. As the sun hung low in the sky, we had just enough time to get lost in the tangle of Saint-Martin’s streets.
The next day we hopped back on the bikes, first stop: oysters. I was in heaven. We sat along the coast during low tide and feasted on tender shrimp and the freshest oysters I’d eaten since our trip to Cap Ferret. A glass of local white wine to compliment. Our next stop was La Flotte, another inviting port village. We were completely smitten by these picture-perfect villages; streets filled with shuttered homes in pastel shades of green, gray and blue; ivy creeping up walls and flowers growing around every corner. The charm was immeasurable. Our journey continued to a long sandy beach close to the village of Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré. I could imagine the surfing and kite-boarding during the summer months. But now it was just us, along with a handful of couples and young families, enjoying the off-season serenity. Perfect timing, if you ask me.
When evening fell and it was time to return to Paris, we were not eager to leave the island and vowed to return. There were more villages to explore, more local pineau to taste and oysters to savor. I could now understand why Île de Ré was considered such an island paradise. A secret the French keep well, and now one I share with you. Here are my recommendations for island life in Saint-Martin-de-Ré.
SLEEP: Hôtel de Toiras is a five-star Relais & Châteaux property located on the port of Saint-Martin-de-Ré, providing a luxurious setting for a weekend away, or longer. The rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated with old French charm. The entire setting is regal and elegant. Five years ago, the hotel acquired a beautiful old mansion and created its sister hotel, Villa Clarisse. Set father back in the village, this four-star hotel offers 9 rooms set in a lush garden with a pool. Either location makes a perfect home in the heart of the island.
EAT LOCAL: Le Bistro du Marin is THE local spot, located on the port. They don’t take reservations so prepare to wait by the bar, especially if you’d like to dine outside, or en terrace. Their hearty meat dishes served with delicious home fries and fresh fish specials are certainly worth waiting for! Not to mention their homemade profiteroles. Both lunch and dinner are served daily, closed Thursdays.
EAT GOURMET: Les Embruns is just behind the port and well worth a dinner reservation (you must book ahead as they get full very quickly). This is the place for seafood, with lobster salad worth ordering, and a variety of fish dishes on the menu. For 30€ you can try the tasting menu. It’s hard to go wrong in this charmingly kitschy restaurant. Open only for dinner during the high season, closed Tuesdays.
EAT OYSTERS: Ré Ostréa is a casual lunch spot along the bike path from Saint-Martin-de-Ré heading west. It’s hard to miss with its colorful chairs, always full in the high season. Here you can dine on an assortment of seafood, including of course, local oysters. The fresh shrimps too, are heavenly! All dishes are accompanied by a glass of local wine. This is a must stop while on the island.
EAT SWEETS: La Martinière is a family run ice-cream and pastry shop. It’s a MUST stop while on the island, though we missed out on this sweet experience since it was closed for renovations. Next time!
DRINK: Ile de Ré is not so much known for their wines as for the French apéritif Pineau,a blend of wine and cognac. As it’s a sweet drink, I quickly became a fan. You can taste it at any bar or wine shop.
CYCLE: With quite a few bike rental companies to choose from, I found Cycland to be one of the best, with a great assortment of bikes and locations in 9 of the 10 villages. Definitely use bicycles to get around the island!
VISIT: Ernest Cognacq Museum is a Renaissance style mansion highlighting the historical, artistic and military heritages of the island. Worth a stop for a quick history lesson!
It rarely becomes extremely hot in Paris. But when it does, little relief can be found. Last weekend we experienced such a heatwave, called a canicule. That was reason enough to leave the heat and flee to the countryside. But who needs a reason. So we jumped on the train and in 30 minutes arrived to Chantilly. We first visited the château with my mom a few years ago, and knew one day we’d return. Now was as perfect a time as any. After a quick lunch stop we headed directly for our luxurious haven in the shade, Auberge du Jeu de Paume.
This stunning five-star Relais & Chateaux property sits overlooking the majestic Château de Chantilly, bringing new meaning to the term ‘room with a view’. Our suite overlooked the English gardens. Immediately the late summer heat faded into the distance as I relaxed to the calming sounds of the fountains down below, and watched as the swan made her laps in the pond. A perfect weekend getaway.
This four-year old hotel’s spacious rooms are fashioned with classic toile de Jouy fabrics and handcrafted woodwork, no details spared. The Hermès bath products in the marble bathrooms were a treat. Not to mention the decadence of the plush bed! We both slept very soundly, with the help of a little air-conditioning.
After a morning of yoga on the terrace and a visit to the full-service spa and fitness room, we splurged on breakfast on our terrace. Heavenly! Not a soul in sight aside from an occasional triathlete running by in the gardens. Little did we know, it was the weekend of the Castle Triathlon Series. What a gorgeous setting! It almost inspired me to join for next year. (I’ll stick to yoga!)
For dinner we opted for Le Jardin d’Hiver, the chic bistro featuring seasonal fare created by Arnaud Faye, 2* Michelin Chef at La Table du Connétable, their more elegant and gourmet dining option. What a decadent feast! We ended the night with a glass of wine on our terrace, beneath a starry sky. Ah, romance…
What’s a trip to Chantilly without a visit to the château, a five minute walk from the hotel, and a stop for the very thing the town is known for, aside from lace that is. The BEST and original Chantilly cream is found at Le Hameau on the grounds of the château. (I could write an entire blog post about it, heaven on a plate!)
The rest of our afternoon was spent watching the triathlon and cheering them on, picnicking in the garden, and admiring the history surrounding us.
Before returning to Paris we made one final stop to the Grandes Écuries for a horse show and visit to the museum. Also known as the Living Museum of the Horse, here can be found the largest stables in Europe. It was constructed in the 18th century as an actual horses’ palace, how fancy! Growing up horseback riding and with a love for these gentle creatures, this was quite a highlight for me. I would gladly have galloped back to Paris.
A morning discovering favorite local haunts of one of Paris’ star chefs and bakers? Mais oui! Several weeks ago, I had the privilege of doing exactly that, with two star Michelin chef Thierry Marx. Our day began at his new bakery and cafe in the 8th arrondissement, La Boulangerie. After tasting a few of Marx’ many sweet specialties, I had a tour of the kitchen where I met the crew and watched them at work, learning a few tricks along the way.
I then hopped into my vintage Citroën 2CV and my beret clad driver navigated his way to our next stop Cafés Verlet, where Marx often drinks (and buys) his coffee. It was there where I tasted various intoxicating brews, both hot and cold, and learned exactly how specialized this family business, originating in the 20th century, really is. It was in 1965 that grandson Pierre Verlet began roasting coffees from all over the world. I even caught a glimpse of his son’s roasting method in their nearby coffee mill.
The next stop was a hidden gallery in Saint-Germain, another of Marx’ favorite haunts. Pause for a little visual stimulation. The last discovery before lunch was gastronomic bouquiniste Alain Suchet, his bookstand on display along the banks of the Seine. It is here where Thierry Marx acquires vintage cookbooks to add to his collection. With so many to choose from, I could have spent all afternoon browsing!
For lunch I dined haute couture style at the Mandarin Oriental’s Sur Measure. It is here at Thierry Marx’ two Michelin star restaurant, where he “blends the technical and emotional aspects of cooking with sight, sound and taste.” What an experience, from the amuse bouche to the dessert. Emotional to say the least!
To find out more about Thierry Marx’ favorite spots to shop, dine and explore in the French capital, pick up a copy of Paris Marx Saveurs Capitale (in French). If you’re planning a trip to Paris, you can experience ‘Paris by Marx’ with a stay at the Mandarin Oriental. Find out more in my feature in France Today.
I had last visited the Luberon with its picture perfect villages during my around-the-world travels in 2007. Having such vivid memories, I was eager to return and continue to explore this region, this time with my Italian in tow. Our first stop was the village of Roussillon at the foot of the Vaucluse mountains, famous for it’s ochre cliffs and infinite shades of red and orange.
Without a set plan in mind, we decided to explore Lacoste. Love at first sight! This picturesque old mountain village felt like stepping into a movie set. It was nearly deserted, with so many cobbled corners to explore. We managed to find a little cafe for lunch while admiring the views.
Our next stop was the equally charming walled village of Ménerbes. Here we stopped for a coffee and chatted with fellow tourists who were also on the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur path of discovery.
There’s only so much you can see in a day, and it was nearing time to head back to Paris. Along the way we passed the once Roman village of Gordes, with breathtaking views from the road. A must see!
Our final stop was the Notre-Dame de Sénanque Abbey, which still houses a community of Cistercian monks. We stocked up on lavender in their boutique and walked the length of this historic landscape.
We returned to Paris with scents of lavender and honey and visions of hilltop villages. Until next time…
Arriving to Coquillade Village feels like arriving to a majestic Tuscan villa, welcomed by cypress trees, only this 100 acre Relais & Châteaux property is located in the heart of the Luberon in Provence, with views of the Vaucluse Mountains and Mont Ventoux. It’s location was historically the site for migrating birds, including the crested lark (Couquihado in Provençal), hence the name. Surrounded by vineyards and fields of lavender, this complex of 63 rooms and suites dates back to the 11th century, with most of it augmented and restored in recent years. Very eagerly we settled into our new home, ready to take in the views and its many luxuries.
It was hard to leave our Luxury Suite as we relaxed on the terrace, tasting the local rosé grown in their 89 acres of vineyards. I made a mental note to take a tour and arrange a tasting session during our stay. Back to the room… did I mention we had our own jacuzzi and sauna? More reason not to leave. No attention to detail or comfort was spared! While my Italian went for a run through the vines, I made sure to visit the Coquillade SPA, 1500m2 of serenity for both mind and body, created in 2015. It was hard to leave the eucalyptus hammam! But I was eager to explore the premises and discover exactly what lay within the walls of this “village”.
What I discovered were charming Provençal villas discreetly scattered throughout the property, all revealing private rooms with terraces. There were three restaurants on the premises, Gourmet run by two Gault & Millau head chefs, Ristorante, an Italian establishment, and Bistro with a Mediterranean inspired menu. The latter of these is where we opted to dine al fresco, our backdrop a pastel colored sunset beyond the vineyards. Chef Christophe Renaud certainly left an impression, not to mention pastry Chef René Solnon with his masterful desserts. I’ve always had a weakness for sweets.
Following a visit to nearby Roussillon (more on that later), we spent a sunny afternoon lounging by one of the two heated swimming pools. I envisioned a game of tennis or perhaps the beloved French game of pétanque, but time was limited. We eagerly visited the “BMC Cycling Center” with ambitious goals to ride to a neighboring town, I planned to test out an electric bike, but we chose instead to relax within the charm of Coquillade, followed by a driving tour. We were on holiday after all.
It was certainly hard to bid farewell to Coquillade Village with its friendly staff and luxurious amenities. But we were in the Luberon after all and had come to explore. Where to next? Stay tuned…
Last weekend we celebrated our 5 year wedding anniversary with a trip to Provence. How better to spend such a special occasion than traveling amidst one of the most beautiful settings in France? Our adventures started in Avignon. With only 24 hours to spare, we spent as much time as possible getting lost within the town’s 4.3 kilometers of stone ramparts, viewing modern art, admiring historic landmarks and dining on Provençal specialties. So, how best to spend a day in this 14th century city of art and culture? Here are a few ideas.
STAY in the heart of the town overlooking the main square at Hotel l’Horloge.
VISIT the impressive collection of modern and contemporary art at Collection Lambert.
VISIT the fortress and palace Palais des Papes, the seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century.
DINE at creatively inspired modern bistro L’Agape off the tourist track tucked in a charming square.
DRINK a glass of rosé (or Châteauneuf-du-Pape) in the outdoor cafes overlooking the Palais des Papes.
The following day we hit the road, first stop the small village of Fontaine de Vaucluse. After the a decadent lunch in the most charming garden, we explored the Sorgue river. France’s most powerful spring (and the world’s fifth most powerful), this river supplies the region with water, emerald green and dazzling to the eye!
Next it was time to settle into our stunning home in the Luberon…
Moments upon arriving to Château de Chenonceau, this majestic castle with its immaculate landscaped gardens, captivated us both. Set upon the River Cher, I now understood why this was the favorite château of many. This 16th century marvel of Gothic and early Renaissance architecture stood tall against gray skies, the Marques tower across the bridge from the château. What adds to the unique history are the women who called this their home. The favorite residence of Catherine de Medici, while Diane de Poitiers was its mistress. But it was Louise Dupin who saved the château from destruction during the French Revolution, stating that “It was essential to travel and commerce, being the only bridge across the river for many miles.”
The interior of the château was equally regal. The grand ballroom once held festivities organized by Catherine de Medici in honor of her son King Henri III.
Catherine de Medici’s Renaissance bedroom was outfitted with rare Flanders tapestries from the 16th century, and a painting by Correggio representing ‘The Education of Love’.
To prove his devotion to both his wife and his mistress, King Henry II gave them each a garden. This one was Catherine’s, a design of 5 lawns centered around an elegant circular pond, “intimate” at 5,500m2.
Diane’s garden, composed of two perpendicular and two diagonal paths bordering eight large, lawned triangles is 12,000m2 in size. Each season reveals a variety of blossoms.
It was difficult to leave this stunning landscape and the stories it told. With one last glance we bid farewell.
Last weekend we hit the road, destination Loire Valley. This region of France is one of our favorites to explore, both for its proximity to Paris and its regal history. On the way to Orleans via high speed train we reminisced our trips in the Loire, our first adventure being by bike to Château de Blois and the Château de Chambord. Our second trip found us at Château d’Amboise and Château du Clos Lucé. We’ve since been back to visit friends at their family home Château du Petit Thouars. This time we were heading to another friend’s birthday celebrations, with a few visits along the way, including a château or two, but first, home in a pigeon house.
We arrived to Le Colombier, once a pigeon house from the 18th century, and settled in to our romantic abode.
A quick drive from our home in Clery-Saint-Andre we discovered the medieval village of Beaugency. I was immediately charmed by the vines and flowers around every corner as we lost ourselves in the tangle of streets.
Our next stop was Meung-sur-Loire. I was less impressed with this village but the château was worth a visit.
Château Meung-sur-Loire, once the prestigious residence of the bishops of Orleans, welcomed great names in French history including Kings François I and Louis XI. It also served as a prison for poet François Villon.
Our last stop was to a castle that has now become my favorite of them all, Château de Chenonceau…
Several weeks ago I had the pleasure of discovering Provence, Les Baux-de-Provence to be exact. A quaint little commune in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region of southern France, considered one of the most beautiful of French villages. But it was Baumanière, set at the foot of the Alpilles mountains that won my heart.
Home became one of the 5 buildings creating the luxury Relais & Chateaux property Baumanière Les Baux de Provence. Once upon a time in 1945, visionary Raymond Thuillier fell in love with this forgotten land nicknamed “Le Val d’Enfer (Hell’s Valley) and out of one small farmhouse he created an entire Provençal universe, where movie stars, writers and politicians became guests at his highly regarded gastronomic table. Among them Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Queen Elizabeth II and Elizabeth Taylor, to name a few.
In 2015, at the helm of Jean-André Charial and his wife Genevieve, Baumanière Les Baux de Provence celebrated its seventieth anniversary. And they have much to celebrate as their remote property continues to attract guests and acclaim from around the world. Each building reveals a unique ambiance, with each of its 55 spacious rooms and suites decorated in old charm and modern amenities. I could have easily stayed for a week. Did I mention they recently opened a spa with an array of beauty products made with local olive oil?
For both lunch and dinner I eagerly dined at the 2-Michelin star restaurant L’Oustau de Baumanière, with young, dynamic and innovative chef Glenn Viel taking charge in the kitchen. Cooking classes are offered!
I spoke in length with the charming Jean-André, topics ranging from the love of his inherited land, his passion for cooking with simple and fresh ingredients (he even gave me a tour of the greenhouses where he grows many of his herbs and vegetables), and his deep adoration for Italy. Genevieve had a unique elegance and warmth and I felt very welcomed in their home. She even took a liking to my bags (and my accent) and is now selling Kasia Dietz handbags in their exclusive Baumanière Boutique!
I fondly recall my morning reflections, sitting on my private terrace, listening to the calm of nature and thinking, if ever we decide to leave Paris, Provence would certainly be a nice place to call home.
Last spring I discovered Dijon and became enamored with the Burgundy region. This year it was time to visit the smaller town of Beaune. Our first stop was Hotel Le Cep, a historic mansion where King Louis XIV once slept. This family run 4-star hotel boasts 16th century courtyards with rooms and suites decorated in endless charm. My Italian and I immediately felt at home as we were warmly welcomed by gracious owner Jean-Claude Bernard, who spoke of his family hotel’s rich history. Just outside Le Cep’s doors, Beaune awaited to be explored. Where to go first? We headed directly to the Tourism Office to consult the experts.
Our main objective being to discover and taste the local specialties, we headed straight to the prestigious wine cellars of Bouchard Père & Fils, once the ancient castle of Beaune. Touring their cave, we found select wines aged over 100 years! Needless to say, those we tasted were quite a bit younger. Here began a weekend of tasting some of the best wines in France.
Saturday morning the sun shone brightly and we met our new neighbors at the local market. I’ve been to many markets all over the country, but this one appeared to be straight out of a film set. Were we the extras?
Our next stop was mustard factory Fallot, the last independent family mustard mill in Burgundy. We were met by Marc Désarménien whose family had started producing Fallot mustard in 1840. The mustard making process is a fascinating one as we learned, being led through the factory, chewing on mustard seeds along the way. Afterwards, tasting the dozens of flavors of Fallot mustard was an experience! My favorites being the classic grainy variety with white wine, followed by walnut, and honey and fig.
Wine and mustard aren’t the only gastronomic delicacies that have put Beaune on the map. This town too is a haven for haute cuisine. Where did we choose among the many options? Here’s my short list:
La Bussionière: Charming husband and wife run restaurant that recently moved into the center of Beaune. Selection of fresh local produce, creating delicious regional dishes.
Loiseau des Vignes: One of highly regarded Loiseau family restaurants, awarded a Michelin star in 2010 under chef Mourad Haddouche, adjacent to Hotel Le Cep. A gastronomic paradise, with 70 wines served by the glass.
Le P’tit Paradis: An intimate restaurant in the heart of the town for over 20 years, where seasonal tastes mingle with inventive dishes. Outdoor terrace for spring and summer dining.
When not wine tasting or dining, we were educating ourselves to the history of Beaune. It was in a walking tour with history buff and wine expert Kim Gagné that we learned the most. She brought us to the famous Hospices de Beaune, also called Hôtel-Dieu. Built in the 15th century and once a hospital mainly for the poor, it’s now a museum. Every November, an important charity wine auction is held within this historic building.
Before heading back to Paris, we decided a tour of the vineyards would prove the best lesson of all in wine culture. Our lovely guide Brigitte from Vineatours picked us up at Le Cep and into the villages and vineyards we drove, passing Pommard and Volnay along the way. We stopped at a private vineyard and tasted a small production of premier and grand cru, increasing our home collection of Bourgogne wines.
This charming town had won my heart. Filled with the sensations of Beaune, and plenty of mustard and wine, we boarded the train back to Paris, a quick 2 hour ride. Next time we vowed, we’ll return for a biking tour.
Last week I joined Mediterranean travel aficionado Megan of Bella Vita Travels for a whirlwind tour of the Côte d’Azur, leaving grey skies in Paris for golden hues in the French Riviera. I hadn’t been down south for almost five years, since our journey to Bormes les Mimosas. Six hours via train, there I was in Nice, ready to discover just what makes this part of France so enchanting. Our first stop was the Medieval village of Mougins.
I was immediately smitten by this hilltop artists commune, once inhabited by creative elite including Jean Cocteau, Fernand Léger, Francis Picabia, Man Ray, Yves Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Winston Churchill, Catherine Deneuve, Édith Piaf & Jacques Brel. This too is where Picasso spent his last 12 years of life.
From there it was a short drive to Cannes, where many of today’s film stars can be found strolling along the boulevards, particularly during the famed film festival. Did we spot any? None that I could recognize…
The next stop was Antibes, a charming old town enclosed by 16th-century ramparts. Here we spent a glorious afternoon with a glass of rosé and views of the town Juan-les-Pins. Picasso too made his mark here; the castle where he stayed is now the Picasso Museum.
Not far away was a small medieval village perched atop a cliff, 1,401 feel above sea level to be exact. Thus, Èze is often called an “eagle’s nest”. Again, I was smitten.
Before returning to Nice we stopped in the harbor town of Villefranche. Now I understand why so many choose to make this colorful spot their home while visiting the riviera.
Back in Nice I was eager to explore this Mediterranean city, feeling very much at home on the French Riviera. With the sun leading our path, we discovered delicious farm to table dining at Le Canon, and local cooking school Les Petits Farcis, should we choose to take a market tour and cook our own Niçois meal. Next time!
I could have easily spent more time exploring this city of art and culture while savored more sunsets in the south, but it was time to return north for adventures in Burgundy. Next stop: Beaune.
Last week I decided it was time to venture to Brittany. Having heard so much about the charming walled port city of Saint-Malo, I boarded the train headed west, and three hours later was welcomed by gray skies and sea. And so began my scenic sojourn in the land of crêpes, cider, oysters from neighboring Cancale, and rising tides.
The historically independent Saint-Malo, known in the past for privateering (a privateer was often considered a pirate), is still referred to as “cité corsaire”. During World War II 80% of the city was destroyed and rebuilt between 1948-1960. With few tourists in sight, I was happy to explore this walled hideaway. But what I was most eager to discover was Mont Saint-Michel in nearby Normandy. As soon as the sun rose, that’s where I headed.
At first sight of Mont Saint-Michel I was in complete awe. This wonder of the Western world truly takes your breath away. How did this Abbey come to be, perched atop a rock? At the request of the Archangel Michel, Aubert, Bishop of Avranches built and consecrated a small church on the 16th October 709. In 966 a community of Benedictines settled on the rock at the request of the Duke of Normandy and the pre-Romanesque church was built before the year one thousand.Here is more history and information about Mont Saint-Michel.
Join me in this scenic journey as I climb up the steps leading to this UNESCO world heritage site.
The views from the top are simply stunning! Where does sky end and sea begin?
Not to mention what lies on the inside.
I will certainly return, and next time stay the night. I hear it’s particularly stunning at sunset…
Sometimes life brings you full circle. Last spring I was invited along with Leah Walker, by the France Tourism Board Rendez-vous en France, to join their annual campaign in which they highlight and promote select cities in France. In my many years as a print producer in New York, (in which field I still work from time to time), I often traveled to foreign locales, managing campaigns for various advertising agencies. This time however, my role was as blogger and social media marketer. Wow, no production work! Though I was more than happy to assist whenever needed. The campaign, shot by talented photographer Braden Summers and assisted by a well curated crew stemming from all over the globe, began on the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Some of the best views of the City of Lights!
Braden and crew continued from Paris to Poitiers, Nice and Marseille before I caught up with them in Dijon. What a magical city filled with history, wine and of course mustard. Read more about my Dijon adventures here.
Our next and last stop on the France tour was Reims, the land of champagne. After a private tasting at the famous champagne house Taittinger, Leah and I joined the group for the final day of photography. Our last scene took place at a gorgeous private home with a grand picnic a la Française. You can even spot me running off in the distance with Sophie Holubinka, Project Manager of the Fall for France campaign from Atout France.
For those heading to Miami Art Basel next week, stop by the France Pavilion to discover this years stunning traveling photo exposé of “Top French Cities”. The campaign can also be viewed here. Or better yet, come to France!
Not long ago I was invited to join Rendez-vous en France, the official site for France Tourism, as a select few traveled the country to create their new campaign Fall For France. Considering there were several regions of France I hadn’t yet explored, I eagerly accepted the adventure and boarded the train with Rail Europe. In under two hours I arrived to Dijon.
Dijon being the capital of the Burgundy region, naturally day one was spent wine tasting.
Bourgogne being my top choice in wine, I discovered new reds and even a few whites.
Being in the expert hands of the Dijon Tourism Office, our next stop was a special one.
The Clos de Vougeot vineyard was created by Cistercian monks of Cîteaux Abbey in 1336. This medieval wine farm was highly recognized for centuries. The Château de Clos de Vougeot, sitting regally within the stone wall, was added in 1551.
Since 1945, it is the seat of the Order for the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin.
Wine is no longer produced, but this historic Château holds many stories within it’s walls.
It was now time to enjoy the city, and why not from the 46m high La Tour Philippe de Bon?
The sunlit views were stunning, and I was eager to explore by foot down below.
I spent countless hours walking, looking up, admiring the architecture, the historic details.
I discovered a new love for a city and it’s neighboring landscapes. With local products in hand, including a few bottles of Bourgogne, Dijon mustard (I couldn’t leave without a tasting), and gingerbread (another specialty), I vowed to return when the vines are filled with leaves. Maybe even with a certain someone. There is much more to see… and taste.
My next adventure is taking me to Italy…feel free to follow along on Instagram + Facebook!
The events of the past few days in Paris are unfathomable. Attacks on freedom of expression in a nation whose principles are Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité. Incomprehensible deaths of innocent people. It is difficult to accept and impossible to understand. Having experienced 9/11 in New York, and now this in Paris.
To support my adopted home, and the very notion of freedom, my Italian and I joined friends in today’s Unity March, with over 2.2 million people from around the world.
It was a day of unity, with over 40 world leaders heading the march, linked arm in arm. The energy felt in Paris was undeniable and contagious. United we marched. Je suis Charlie!
Following the march we walked by the location of the shootings for a moment of silence.
My heart goes out to all the victims. May we pray for peace.
Friend and fellow traveler Lynne Martin, author of Home Sweet Anywhere(a book I highly recommend) and blogger at Home Free Adventures, asked me to describe celebrating Christmas in Paris as an expat. I took a moment to think about what makes the city of lights even brighter during the holidays, and having spent many a holiday season in Paris, here is what I came up with. You an also find this article online at TravelSmith!
What is it about Christmas time in Paris that truly captivates the senses? Where to begin…
The intimacy of the sidewalk cafes with their heat lamps and blankets, beneath which you can indulge in a glass of seasonal mulled wine. The street vendors selling roasted chestnuts on many a corner. The annual holiday markets scattered around the city, revealing an array of artisanal gift ideas. But I suspect it’s the culinary specialties from various regions of France that draw the crowds. My favorites include raclette and the more decadent tartiflette, hailing from the Haute-Savoie.
Known for their pâtisseries, it’s no surprise that the French celebrate Christmas with cake. The bûche de Noël originally represented the yule log, a sponge cake with a bark-like texture made of buttercream. Many variations can be found around Paris, each more decadent than the last. Beginning in late December, pastry shops in Paris fill their windows with galettes des rois, or King Cake, to celebrate the Epiphany on January 6th. A good luck charm called la fève is baked inside this puff pastry filled with frangipane, and whoever’s piece contains la fève is crowned king or queen for the day. The cobbled streets sparkle, each dressed in it’s own string of holiday lights. The Champs Elysées glows the brightest of all, each year in late November a lighting ceremony takes place, with thousands of fairy lights lit along this grand boulevard. Yet another reason why Paris is so often referred to as the City of Lights.
At the grands magasins including Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché, and Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, the window displays are reminiscent of theatre sets, revealing animated Christmas scenes that leave both young and old marveling. Often a family trip is taken to view these story-telling windows.
We cannot forget the celebrated churches. My first Christmas in Paris was spent at Notre Dame Cathedral. The choir alone was worth braving the crowds, as they filled the 800 year old space with song, a midnight mass never to be forgotten. Even passing by the Notre Dame by night, the majestic sparkling Christmas tree will take your breath away.
Wherever you are in the world, I wish you happy holidays + a bright and happy new year!
Follow my holiday adventures in Andalucia, Spain, via instagram and facebook.
I first visited Picasso in Paris ten years ago, stopping to admire the 17th-century mansion known as the Hôtel Salé, on one of my many walks around the Marais. I remember thinking what a shame that so much of his personal work was in storage, as there was scant wall space to display the artwork. Little did I know I would end up living just a stone’s throw from this artist’s legacy, but with only the garden open for viewing. As anyone who is a fan of Picasso’s work knows, the Musée Picasso has been closed for the last 5 years (3 years longer than expected), undergoing extensive renovations.
On Friday morning, October 24th, one day shy of Picasso’s birthday and the official opening, I was invited inside the newly renovated museum, now three times the size and much more impressive.
I walked around the five floors in awe of the renewed space which now boasts over 400 of Picasso’s paintings, drawings and sculptures, as well as works from his personal collection.
Musée Picasso plans to host one major exhibit each year. Next year, in collaboration with New York City’s Museum of Modern Art, it will be a show revolving around Picasso’s sculpture. Until then, I plan to spend many a Paris morning with Picasso.
In mid-August my Italian and I decided to do like the Parisians, leave Paris to the tourists, and venture south. I had heard a lot about the unpretentious charm of France’s Cap Ferret, and was eager to discover it for myself. It has been likened to Montauk, the most unspoilt part of the Hamptons, where I grew up. Our first stop was lunch in a rainy but elegant Bordeaux. I know little of this city, this being my second visit, but look forward to becoming better acquainted in the future.
Rather than head directly to this trendy enclave, we stopped in Arcachon for a few days. Just enough time to meet with friends and climb the highest sand dunes in all of Europe.
The Dune du Pilat measures 107 meters high and I felt rather accomplished reaching the top!
We spent the afternoon climbing, jumping, running… and sitting beneath the late summer sun.
Our next stop was Cap Ferret. We settled in with a plate of oysters, local wine, and a view.
The dominant mode of transport is by bike. And that is how we explored this little French paradise.
I could immediately understand why it was compared to Montauk with it’s chic yet relaxed vibe.
After many great meals including at the highly revered Chez Hortense, it was time to bid adieu.
Via boat and train we made our way back to Paris filled with sounds and tastes of the sea.
One reason I love when my mom comes to Paris to visit is that I get to spoil her. I spend months in preparation, planning all sorts of events, exhibitions, eating experiences, etc. This year I thought I’d surprise her with a mother/daughter high tea. Where better than at the Four Seasons George V?
Upon entering this ethereal setting, we were taken with Jeff Leatham’s stunning floral compositions.
My mom and I were in our element, both of us favoring sweet over savory.
We began our indulgent afternoon with one of Lucien Gautier’s fruitful masterpieces.
Is there anything better than French pastries with champagne to compliment?
How happy I was to spend such a memorable afternoon with my mom, and in such sweet splendor!
