Greece Part Four: Santorini

October 25, 2020

Santorini is an island close to my heart. It was here on the caldera in the alluring village of Oia where my Italian proposed and where we began our Greek island-hopping honeymoon almost ten years ago. This visit found us happily secluded in the more intimate cliffside village of Imerovigli.

Home became the heavenly boutique cave hotel Iconic Santorini. Our room on the edge of the cliff looked out over the azure waters of the Aegean far below. The setting of a dream!

We quickly settled into our luxurious room with a view, sinking into our private jacuzzi followed by a holistic massage at the hotel spa. After all, holistic comes from the Greek word ‘holos’ meaning whole.

Our first idyllic day at Iconic Santorini ended at their Pergola Restaurant, dining on gourmet Greek dishes.

It was difficult to leave our newfound utopia to explore the rest of the island. With many fewer people than in Oia and neighboring Fira, Imerovigli proved the perfect village in which to avoid the crowds, even though this year was quieter than most. Having already visited much of Santorini on previous visits, we decided to enjoy the views, and the pool, instead.

Our sojourn at Iconic Santorini confirmed our deep affection for this uniquely mystical island, undoubtedly one of the most romantic destinations in the world.

Following a walk to the village of Fira just one kilometer from Imerovigli, it was time to leave Santorini, knowing that we would return. We always do.

Greece Part Three: Amorgos

October 14, 2020

My first trip to Amorgos, the setting of the famed film The Big Blue (Le Grand Bleu as it’s known in France), was during my very first journey to the Greek Islands ten years ago. Those who have been reading this blog from the beginning will remember that upon meeting my Italian, he promised me Greece. What he didn’t promise, and for what I’m most grateful, was that we would return again and again, each visit an intoxicating experience of a shared passion for Greece. Those who share this passion, know well the feeling.

While during our first visit to Amorgos we explored much of the island, there’s always more to discover. Opting to stay near the port of Aegiali, our first swim was at neighboring Levrossos beach, a quick boat ride away.

Once we acquired a set of wheels, rocky Mouros beach, only frequented by a select few, became paradise found.

Always eager to explore, we drove up to the Chora, one of the most picturesque villages of the Cyclades.

The seasonal Meltemi winds at full speed during our early evening in the Chora, we mingled with the locals and few tourists on the island, reminded of why late August and September are our favorite months to visit.

Dinner in the Chora found us at gourmet address Apospero, a reco by a Greek friend and photographer.

Another stellar address from the same friend, who we met with during both visits to Amorgos (leave it to the universe!), was hilltop restaurant Kamára above the small village of Potamos. From here we viewed the most spectacular sunset.

The setting for our very own Le Grande Bleu became Nikouria beach. The small uninhabited island of Nikouria boasting crystal clear waters as far as the eye could see was reachable only via boat from Agios Pavlos.

Before leaving Amorgos, we stopped at Katapola, the island’s other port where we feasted on freshly caught fish and local specialties. Maybe we’ll stay here next time, we thought. And yes, there definitely will be a next time. But now our sights were set on Santorini.

Greece Part Two: Astypalea

October 1, 2020

Every trip to Greece includes at least one new island discovery. This time we were eager to explore one of the most secluded of the Greek Islands, Astypalea. This would become my 15th Greek island and my Italian’s 20th, but who’s counting. An 8-hour ferry ride from Athen’s Port of Piraeus, this butterfly-shaped island sits in the Dodecanese but equally shares the characteristic charm of the Cyclades.

From the moment we arrived and made our way to the Chora, I was smitten with the island’s unaffected beauty.

Those equally familiar with the Greek islands know that each possesses a unique feeling and energy. The more acquainted we became with Asypalea, the more we both became enchanted with its laid back elegance.

The Chora in Astypalea revealed a series of tangled streets leading to hilltop bars and restaurants. Some of our favorites for local Greek food included Kouklas and Ageri in the Chora, Akrogiali near the port, and Almyra in Maltazena, where the fish was some of the freshest we tasted.

From the very top of Astypalea’s Chora sit the remains of a Venetian castle boasting majestic views of the sea.

Part of the adventure when arriving at a new island is deciding where to stay. With the vast number of hotels and apartments to rent, options are plentiful. Just above the port we first settled into the charming family-run Belvedere Studios, followed by secluded boutique hotel Studios Kilindra high up in the Chora where every morning breakfast was accompanied by roosters crowing.

Another unique feature of each Greek island is its beaches. Astypalea boasts some of the most crystal clear waters we’ve even swam in. Our first beach adventure was to the uninhabited island of Konoupia, which we reached via sail boat.

It was hill-lined Vatses, with its trendy taverna, no WiFi connection, and only a dozen thatched umbrellas, that became our favored Greek beach paradise.

The wildest and most difficult beach to reach, as the road was barely paved and proved a very bumpy ride, was Kaminakia, a reward upon arrival. Another treat was dining on family cooking at the single taverna.

Whenever we travel in Greece, I always take time to explore the artisanal side of each island and discover the local designers. I was thrilled to find beautiful boutique Art in Pelago, whose selection of jewelry, crafts and sleeping cats was one-of-a-kind.

While we could have easily spent another week dining in the inviting restaurants, mingling with the adopted locals and driving from one wild beach to another, it was time to return to island hopping.

Greece part one: Athens

September 20, 2020

I’ve never felt more grateful to arrive in Athens where we recently began our Greek island-hopping adventures. We chose late August knowing there would be fewer people around, both in Athens and in the islands. Plus, the meltemi (very strong winds) usually calm down by then. Taking care to follow all safety precautions, including wearing masks during the flight and in all public places, we settled into the NEW Hotel in the heart of Plaka.

Owned by world-renowned art collector Dakis Joannou and designed by the award-winning Campana brothers, NEW Hotel boasts not only 360-degree views of Athens (including the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, Syntagma Square, and the Parliament) but it houses an impressive art collection, including works by Jeff Koons, a personal friend of Joannou’s. (Koons also designed his yacht!) Surrounded by an impressive collection of over 2,000 art books on loan at the 7th floor Art Lounge, we feasted on an exceptional meal fusing Greek and international cuisine.

What most appealed to me at this design-savvy 5-star address was that nearly all of the furniture and interior elements were repurposed from the hotel which previously stood in its place. Brilliant concept! Each of the 79 well-outfitted rooms is designed in one of three themes, vintage postcards and “evil eyes” among them.

The dining room where breakfast is served is cleverly composed of recycled furniture and wooden elements.

The evening found us on a walk around the neighborhood of the NEW Hotel where we discovered many charming cafes and a good dose of history. The Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds were both visions to behold as the sun began to set.

Having already visited many of Athen’s sights on a previous Greek island-hopping adventure, including the majestic Acropolis, we favored the culinary side of the city and headed for dinner with friends.

The following afternoon we hopped aboard a ferry for an 8-hour journey to the remote island of Astypalea.

Adventures in Crete

July 2, 2019

It had been a few years since we took a trip to Greece, and as anyone who reads this blog knows, the Greek Islands are one of our favorite destinations in the world! This time we decided to skip the Cyclades and venture to the larger island of Crete, my 15th island and my Italian’s 19th. But who’s counting? With only six days to explore, we took to the road upon arriving to Heraklion, first stop the ancient Minoan village of Knossos.

Beneath a cloudy sky we walked the cobbled paths of what is considered Europe’s oldest city, in complete awe.

Eager to lose ourselves in the blue hues so unique to Greece, we drove two hours to the southern coast until we reached Triopetra Beach. Home became a cozy family-run hotel for anyone seeking to escape the bustle of urban life. Days were spent exploring the region, taking dips in the sea, and dining on the freshest Greek cuisine with a group of yogis and other off-the-beaten-path travelers.

One of our day trips led us to Preveli Beach where we skipped the sun-bathing and headed straight for the palm tree forest. What stunning scenery!

While we could easily have spent several more days in Triopetra, we were eager to explore more of Crete. The next stop was Loutro, reachable by boat (or a very long hike) from Hora Sfakion.

Reminiscent of the Cyclades with white buildings set below rocky mountains rising into the sky, we immediately felt at home. Another remote paradise found.

Before our final destination of Chania, we stopped at one of Crete’s most dramatic beaches. Seitan Limani requires a rather steep hike to reach its crystal clear waters. Needless to say, it was well worth it!

By the time we reached Chania on Crete’s northeastern coast, we were smitten with the island and plotting our return. Boasting a 14th-century Venetian harbor, the city is ridden with charm and history.

We settled into a boutique hotel in the city center and set our sights on the surrounding beauty, our only dilemma being which taverna to dine in.

These adventures in Crete reaffirmed our deep affection for this country, its culture, and its people.

Melenos Lindos

September 25, 2015

We arrived to Rhodes and immediately fell under the spell of its majestic medieval city, the largest walled city in Europe. We explored the tangle of roads which led to the Jewish Quarter and paid a visit to the impressive Archaeological Museum. But our main destination was the town of Lindos, an hour by bus and a world of difference.

Rising over the traditional white homes of Lindos sits an acropolis dating back to the 10th century BC. As we ventured up the hill, we arrived to our home, Melenos Lindos, what appeared to be a village within a village; a world of its own that I was eager to discover.

simply Symi

September 23, 2015

With a quick stop at Kos, another world entirely with it’s myriad of beach bars and rock music, attracting day trippers in search of a spot in the sun. We boarded the next ferry to Symi, my thirteenth island on this, our fourth Greek Island adventure. But who’s counting?

I had no idea what to expect as the ferry approached Symi, part of the Dodecanese island chain. I did know it was a gem with a complex history, occupied by Italy in the 20th century, which could explain it’s colorful facades, and still a favorite to Italians and British.

come to the edge

November 8, 2013

Some of the most interesting and inspiring people, I’ve met along the path of travel. Through our shared affinity for culture and adventure, our lives converge, in a place often unexpected. This was the case with Christina Haag during our recent journey to Serifos, Greece. Via my latest fascination with instagram (obsession is a strong word) I discovered another New Yorker on the island and we met for a local rakomelo. I immediately took a liking to this warm and engaging woman who had in the weeks preceding our visit, made this island her temporary home. Most of the tourists had left for Athens or their respective cities, leaving us time to enjoy what often felt like a private island.

One of the most memorable days in Serifos was spent with Christina and my Italian, light and happy, dining in a taverna overlooking a serene beach. It was there, along the banks of Platys Gialos that Christina shared her stories with me, and I with her. We spoke freely about life and love, our shared passion for Greece, New York, the Hamptons, travel. We spent the early evening driving along the scenic roads, often stopping to admire a view, with Christina as our guide. A few dinners and many conversations followed, we even joined her for a Panagyria festival with the locals.

Christina 2

Christina’s life read much like a book, and I was pleased to learn that she had recently written a memoir. Come to the Edge reminisces on a life of privilege in old New York City, her successes and trials as an actress, and a five year long love affair with John F. Kennedy Jr. A life lived with passion.

From Serifos to Paris, Christina’s stories continued as I lost myself in the soulful words of her memoir. I felt as though I were living these experiences myself, and could not stop reading. I was reminded of our conversations, of how she felt compelled to tell her story, rightfully so, spending months writing in the Hamptons, long after her dear friend and great love’s life had tragically ended.

Christina lives by her heart. For this, I admire her, and feel grateful to have shared our own chapter.

Christina is giving away a copy of her book to one lucky reader. To enter, follow Christina Haag on Facebook and tell us your favorite quote on love or life, below. (Random winner will be announced on November 15th, good luck!) You can also follow Christina on Twitter and Instagram. Incidentally, for those in Paris, there’s an exhibition about the Kennedy family going on until November 30th.

Within you, your years are growing. – Pablo Neruda

island hopping in Greece: Milos

September 28, 2013

Our last stop on this grand island hopping adventure, was Milos. I knew little about this island other than it possessed gorgeous beaches and dramatic landscapes, soon to be discovered. We decided to settle in the small yet lively village of Polonia, not only charming but quite the foodie haven!

Our first stop, a place my Italian knew from a previous visit and was eager to show me, was a lunar landscape called Sarakiniko. Here began my love affair with Milos.

One of the most incredible landscapes I have ever seen, volcanic rocks shaped by wind and waves.

The next day we decided to be proper tourists and see it all by taking a catamaran around the island.

The journey began with the vibrantly colored village of Klima, only reachable by boat.

At many a hidden beach we would stop and swim, snorkel, take in the island’s unique beauty.

Never before had I swam in such crystal clear waters! This was the uninhabited island of Poliegos.

The ever changing colors were reminiscent of paintings by artists like Cy Twombly.

We left one paradise and discovered another. Each more spectacular than the last.

And to swim within these landscapes, in and out of the caves… a surreal experience!

We both agreed this was one of the most memorable day we spent in Greece. And there were many.

Our last sunset, from a scenic spot appropriately named Utopia, with a promise to return.

island hopping in Greece: Serifos

September 25, 2013

As anyone who has traveled around the Greek islands knows, you must plan your island hopping well, as boats tend to be infrequent. Years ago in Fourni, no boat arrived or left for three days due to rough seas. All part of the adventure! In order to make our way to Serifos in the western Cyclades, we had to stop at Paros, but decided to explore the smaller island of Antiparos instead.

After discovering what proved to be a charming village with chic boutiques, (ideal for my bags), we boarded an early morning boat for Serifos, less touristic and more off the beaten path. Perfect.

What’s most unique and spectacular about Serifos (though each island possesses it’s own unique charm) it that the Hora (main village) sits high above the island, at once dramatic and regal.

With a car in tow, we began to explore the island, enjoying the views from the Hora to the port.

And what did we find when we drove down the long windy roads with barely a sign or soul around?

Remote beaches boasting crystal clear waters, surrounded by natural cliffs. Truly a paradise found!

It was at this church at Agios Sostis, that we joined the locals for a religious festival, a Panageria.

What greatly adds to the feeling of Greece are the tavernas serving fresh seafood. Simple pleasures.

We happily spent one week in Serifos and were sorry when it came time to part. But Milos awaited…

island hopping in Greece: Koufonisia

September 18, 2013

It’s not easy to capture the feeling of Greece, but I will try my best to share these two magical weeks. Hence my absence, I was happily lost in the Greek Isles. As those who read my blog know, Greece is close to our hearts. It’s one of my Italian’s preferred destinations, (he has been to over 15 islands in the Cyclades, and I to 10.) This is also where he proposed, and where we spent our honeymoon.

Our third island-hopping adventure landed us in Mykonos. We boarded the first boat to Koufonisia, part of the smaller Cyclades and what is becoming a hotspot among Greeks and foreigners alike.

It is here we discovered gorgeous beaches, each with it’s own taverna, all within walking distance.

And the views? This was our morning breakfast spot. Heaven!

The island is small and we got to know it (and love it) in only three days. Unlike most of the islands, no car or motorbike is needed, and boats or buses transport you from port to beach, or to an uninhabited island which we also visited. The people of Koufonisia are known to be some of the most hospitable in Greece, and the food was a perfect mix of freshly caught seafood and fine dining.

It was not easy to say goodbye, but the paradise called Serifos awaited…

the smallest island

July 28, 2011

Our Greek island-hopping adventures began in Santorini, the most touristic (and one of the most beautiful) islands in the Cyclades. From there a quick boat ride to Folegrandros, much less touristic, but not exactly undiscovered. Onwards to the more remote Fourni Islands. Our last stop on what became our gradual ‘escape from civilization’, was the smallest Greek Island. Upon hearing about this unknown island from a well traveled Italian couple, both my Italian and I were intrigued. Several days, three islands and four boats later, we arrived to Marathi.

Could there be a place more removed from the world than Marathi? I imagined not. The population consists of two families who own the three tavernas. We decided to stay in the more upscale of the three, it was our honeymoon after all. Meanwhile, I was determined to find out as much as I could about the life and history of the island. Did I succeed in our three day visit? Not so well. I learned the most from a Polish waitress who worked for the pirate. Yes, there did live a pirate on the island, one of the three inhabitants in the winter season. The secrets of Marathi will remain buried.

In what felt like the middle of nowhere, we were undoubtedly detached from all manners of distractions. Aside from an occasional imposing yacht, an island in itself, docking in the neighboring waters. And then there was one surprising night of Greek music and dancing in our taverna… who knew we were on a private party island? The greatest calm was found at the old settlement, high on a hill above the harbour, once home to a dozen or so inhabitants before WWII.

What went on in this space so many years ago?

Unfortunately the lonely wild goat did not prove a helpful tour guide.

Only the church stands proudly intact at it’s vantage point.

It was here that we watched our last Greek sunset. Perhaps the most magical of all.

Until the next time.

Islands undiscovered

July 26, 2011

My Italian was eager to explore the great unknown, while I would have been more than happy to remain in the Cyclades. I am not one to stifle anyone’s dreams, so we journeyed onwards. A very rough sea rocked us to Mykonos where we spent the afternoon wandering amidst the white maze, until our early morning boat to the little known archipelago called the Fourni Islands.

Upon reaching this former pirate’s lair we immediately noticed how removed it was from the world. There were only a handful of other tourists, (all of whom we soon met), and complete stillness. With a population of under 1,500, this is considered ‘real Greece’. Certainly life has not changed here in decades. Did this quietude provide the charm? Perhaps. Though I was not yet impressed. We settled into the only ‘luxury’ hotel on the island and soon set out to explore. By foot, taxi (though very often he was nowhere to be found) and motorbike. Car rentals had yet to make their way to the island. What did we find? A landscape so replete with natural beauty that it’s difficult even to describe. This is why the Fourni Islands are considered a gem hidden in the Aegean.

There was barely a soul on the road, the heavy winds, and goats being our only companions.

We made our way from one tranquil beach to another. Days were lost.

Perhaps not so high on the list of honeymoon destinations, Fourni turned out to be undeniably romantic. Secluded beaches, the best (and most inexpensive) seafood, often eaten beneath the shade of a single tree, cooked by a local woman named Maria. (Leave it to my Italian, for this romantic interlude I give him all the credit.)

After exploring as much as was possible, the rough seas subsided, we bid farewell to the locals and fellow pioneers, and set out to continue our journey. In search of islands still more remote…

Island of Italians

July 24, 2011

We arrived to Folegandros and I was not immediately impressed. Like many islands in the Cyclades, the port was less than spectacular, revealing several boats and a lonely taverna. It’s what we discovered driving up to the Hora, the main village overlooking the sea, that confirmed why this island was such a favored destination, particularly among the Italians. Not to mention the views…

What we were surprised to discover upon reaching the Hora, other than one of the most charming villages in the Cyclades, was an Italian cafe/tourist office. Much like an oasis it greeted us with authentic cappuccino, freshly baked focaccia and many a ‘ciao’ from the neighborhood Italians who had for decades made this their summer retreat. We immediately felt at home.

Meanwhile, the locals carried on in the manner they had for years. I grew most fond of the twin brother bus drivers who provided the transportation. (There was also one taxi, just in case.)

We made our way from one fine (wild goat included) Greek dining experience to another…

We explored the traditional settlement of Ano Meria where life has not progressed in decades.

The beaches proved an ideal sanctuary, revealing turquoise waters and the right amount of shade.

Must we leave this ‘paradise found’? Yes. It was time to journey onwards to islands undiscovered…

Island of beauty

July 20, 2011

Anyone who has ever planned a wedding knows how necessary it is to take a honeymoon. Directly afterwards, if possible. Where did we decide to escape to? The Greek islands of course. Beginning with Santorini, where just 9 months earlier my Italian proposed. Naturally, we booked the same room in the same hotel in Oia. (Can you say sentimental?) And from this perfect perch atop the cliffs, overlooking the caldera, our many days of Greek honey and nights of a (full) moon, began.

After 3 days of staring at the sea, indulging in local white wine and many a Greek salad, we decided to explore the island. Something we had not done much of on our last visit. (With a view like this, is there really a need to explore?) And so we rented a car and took to the open road. One view replaced another… each more spectacular than the last.

At the end of a long winding road, paradise was found in the form of a hidden beach.

Neighboring the famous ‘Red Beach’, which certainly merits it’s name.

One evening we caught sight of the most inspiring sunset, with the sun melting into the sea.

Followed by a full moon. Soon to turn into an eclipse. Time again to stare at the sea…

We inhaled the many scenes of serenity and continued our adventures to the Island of Italians…

love affair with Greece: part two

September 17, 2010

Is there a more spectacular place on earth than Santorini? Perhaps. But I doubt it. This unique landscape was created thousands of years ago by the eruption of a volcano, sinking the centre of the island, revealing a caldera surrounded by multi-colored cliffs. Not to mention the surreal sunsets….

We drove directly to Oia, surely one of the loveliest villages in the Cyclades. With patience, resolve (and a little luck) we found a dwelling nestled into the volcanic rock with a perfect view of the caldera. That is where we chose to stay for three days. In peaceful bliss. Staring at the sea.

It was here that my Italian asked me to share his life with him. I said yes. Was there ever a question?

love affair with Greece: part one

September 9, 2010

Often during my year of travel I found it very difficult to leave one place in order to discover another. A common dilemma of the traveler. The appeal of the ‘paradise found’ was so strong, filling my senses so completely that I could barely say goodbye. Even knowing another unknown and uniquely beautiful place was waiting to be discovered.

This is exactly how I felt during our ‘island hopping’ in the Cyclades. Each place, one so different than the next, became home in a matter of days, and I could imagine no other place so magical and idyllic. Until the next island.

Our adventure began in Mykonos, the island of hedonistic revelry. Or so it felt. Beginning in the early evening and ending perhaps at sunrise, this stylish island came to life. An endless array of restaurants, fashionable boutiques, bars and discos of Little Venice lining the Mediterranean, not to mention the hidden champagne bars. Time seemed to hold no relevance. Even the shops stayed open early into the morning, should you desire a little pre-dawn shopping spree. We managed to avoid the crowds and cruise ship contingent only during early afternoons spent happily lost in the maze of cobbled streets, while the sun seekers lined the beaches aptly titled ‘Paradise’.

I’m not a big fan of the ‘beach turned dance party’ concept and prefer to listen to the calm of the sea. A quick hitchhike or scooter ride from the town’s center and we found just this. I am privileged to say that I have walked the sands of many gorgeous beaches in my life. Agios Sostis is one of them.

Equally exhausted from nights of carousing and days spent beneath the formidable sun, we set sail for The Big Blue, the tranquil island of Amorgos. Here we found a home in the little port town of Aegiali. Hidden from the world. Mykonos hours away but long forgotten.

In this far away land we were joined by my friend from NYC, photographer Konstantino Hatzisarros, a native of Greece and adopted resident of Amorgos. I can well understand why.

Amorgos holds many treasures, the most impressive being the iconic monastery Moni Hozoviotissis, set in a cliff high above the sea. Within these holy walls lies a miraculous icon said to be found in the waters below, guarded by the few hospitable monks still in residence.

At the heart of Amorgos lies the old capital Hora. This sophisticated village positioned 400m above sea level, boasting old windmills, trendy bars, and a view.

Driving the length of the island revealed it’s wildnerness. The shadows of surrounding islands in the distance. An old ship wreck to provoke the imagination….the natural beauty of Amorgos is unique. Perhaps it’s the light. Impossible to describe and difficult to capture.

After nearly one week of living in what I can accurately describe as an untamed paradise with just the right amount of class, it was time to say goodbye. One last sunset until Santorini….