This year I finally made it to Strasbourg for a glimpse at this city that really knows how to dress up for the holidays. A stroll through Strasbourg’s Christmas markets (open from November 26th to December 26th) invites into the holiday spirit of the city. The oldest in France and one of the first in Europe, these markets date back to 1570. With over 300 merchants spread throughout the city center, stalls line the famous Strasbourg Cathedral where chiming bells mingle with Christmas tunes. The soundtrack alone sets a holiday mood.
Each of the thirteen markets – scattered along the river and filling city squares – reveals its own charm, with limitless arrays of gifts and goodies. Along with festive decorations that bring a touch of Strasbourg home, discover artisanal pottery and locally crafted jewelry, handmade toys and knitwear for children, and even scented candles and beauty products.
Whether simply inhaling the sights and sounds of Christmas in the Alsace or shopping for stocking stuffers, take a petite pause to taste all the delicacies that Strasbourg is best known for. Tarte flambée, anyone?
In need of a change of scenery from our Haut Marais neighborhood, we decided to end the year and begin a new one, in southern Portugal. Given the many travel restrictions, this remained one of the safest destinations. And our last trip to Portugal, from cruising down the Duoro to road tripping in the Algarve, left us eager for more.
After a dose of sun and sea at Praia do Meco en route from Lisbon, we settled into our home in Zamujeira do Mar in the Alentejo region. With barely any tourists and very few locals, we explored the rugged coastline.
For an authentic lunch with the locals, we stopped at the neighboring village of Porto Covo followed by a visit to Vila Nova de Milfontes. The latter, filled with charm, quickly became a favorite in the Alentejo region.
Always eager for a road trip, we drove over two hours to the medieval town of Mértola close to the Spanish border. Deserted, this once Islamic open-air museum made for a perfect lunch stop in between rain showers.
Having spent a few scenic nights watching the sunset from our home in Zamujeira do Mar, it was time to continue south to the Algarve. But first, a quick stop at Praia de Odeceixe followed by an eclectic seafood lunch at O Sargo in Praia de Monte Clérigo. Will travel for food!
Our next home, and where we would celebrate the New Year, was the coastal town of Lagos with its rugged cliffs.
Each beach in Lagos looked more wild and dramatic than the last. We hiked our way along the coast, in awe.
The sun-filled week spent in Portugal, from the less touristic Alentejo region to the popular Algarve, filled us both with renewed strength and a positive outlook on the new year, as tough as the months ahead may be.
Every year the historic Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann department store puts on a spectacular Christmas display featuring a decorated tree beneath its majestic dome. This year’s theme “A Christmas Journey” takes us around the world through the enchanting window displays depicting far away lands. The Christmas tree tells the story of this expedition, with glittering lanterns and Jules Védrines’ plane flying overhead. It was 1919 when his actual plane landed on the Galeries Lafayette rooftop! Ready to embark on a virtual journey?
Every 30 minutes the dome lights turn off to reveal a spectacular sound and light show. A sight to behold!
The window displays at the Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann store take us to distant imaginative lands, from a fairytale village full of polar bears to a mystical land of Arabian nights. This is the magic of Christmas!
With the holidays right around the corner, and forever a need to find that perfect gift for the Francophile in your life, I decided to put together a holiday gift guide dedicated to online fashion, accessories, and home design, all designed in Paris, of course! Ready to shop à la Parisienne? There’s a lengthy book list for the readers, too!
PARISIAN FASHION AND ACCESSORIES
For the fashion lovers, I’ve launched fashion club Paris à la Mode in which you’ll have the chance to (virtually) meet local Parisian designers and feel as though you’re shopping in Paris. Plus, you’ll receive an exclusive discount on their wares and lots of exciting fashion news, straight from the fashion capital! Here are a few of the designers you’ll be meeting. Head over to their sites to find out what holiday promotions they are offering. Clémence Goudard is the founder of handbag label Good People, all handmade in Madagascar. Laurie Terrasse along with her mother Annie are the designers behind clothing and jewelry label Le Dressing de Zankara. My Kasia Dietz handbags you probably know by now. In honor of the holidays, take 30% off with code HOLIDAY30. Mari Samvelyan creates bespoke womenswear label Koshka Paris. Hermine of Douze Paris designs a handmade line of fine jewelry made of recycled gold.
I don’t want to exclude the men from all the fashion fun. Colorfully classic Parisian brand Erotokritos designs for both women and men and is offering 10% off with code KASIA10. Head over to Twins Concept Store for a wide array of clothing and accessories, all made in France. Use code twinsconceptstore for 10% off.
HOME DECORWITH A PARISIAN FLAIR
If you’re looking to add a touch of Paris to your home, head over to Square Modern where you’ll discover a stunning selection of limited edition mid-century modern pillows. Take 30% off with code HOLIDAY2020. To outfit your home with more mid-century modern treasures, Maison Nordik offers a vast selection of Franco-Danish home decor from vases to armchairs. For porcelain tableware, ceramic artist Alix D. Reynis creates ethereal plates, platters, and bowls, as well as scented candles. To add the final touches to your holiday table, Madame a la Maison offers a swoon-worthy assortment of French linens and vintage tableware. Artist Marin Montagut will add whimsy to any home with his illustrated wall hangings, porcelain plates, and glasses.
TRAVEL TO PARIS BY BOOK
Since borders to Paris remain closed to those outside of Europe, what better way to travel to the French capital than via the pages of a book? Here is a selection that will certainly satisfy your Paris wanderlust.
Embark on a dreamy escape to Paris in Katrina Lawrence poetic book Paris Dreaming while discovering her dedication to the city of light via her site Paris For Dreamers
The beginning of the new year, and the start of a new decade, found us in Palermo. This was our third trip to Sicily, each one leaving us more enchanted with this Italian island. Rich in both history and breathtaking landscapes, not to mention the food, Sicily is easy to fall in love with. Before heading to the capital city, we stopped for lunch in the small town of Mazara del Vallo followed by Sciacca where we settled for a few days.
This fishing port town known for its ceramics proved to be a little gem with a lot of potential. Home was the most charming B&B overlooking the port. Restaurant Stranizze, also a winery, proved a top dining spot.
Close by to Sciacca we visited a limestone cliff that took the appearance of stairs. Of course, we climbed up.
The next stop was nearby to Sicily’s most famous Greek ruins, the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. This awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest archaeological site in the world, includes the remains of seven temples dating back to the 5th-century BC.
It was nearing New Year’s Eve and time to head to our main and final destination, the city of Palermo. While we have explored much of the island from Ortigia to Taormina and Trapani to Cefalù to Ragusa (and back to Ortigia), we had yet to discover Palermo, home to the famous cathedral, an architectural marvel from medieval Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque.
SLEEP: We settled into Eurostars Centrale Palace, a historic palace in the city center, just steps away from Piazza Pretoria and within walking distance to most of Palermo’s attractions. New Year’s Eve dinner was spent at another regal address, the palatial home of Guiseppi Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. 18th-century Butera 28 in the beautiful Kalsa neighborhood also offers apartments for rent.
EAT: With so many fine dining options in Palermo, we chose wisely, and were not disappointed. Included in our top dining experiences is Caponata, helmed by young chef Giuliano Blasi who will leave you impressed by his experimental cuisine whose preparation you can observe via the open kitchen. Another noteworthy address is Osteria Ballarò where you can feast on house specialties or opt for street food including famous panelle, or chickpea fritters. For the most authentic taste of the latter, head to Dainotti at the Capo market.
VISIT: With churches and palaces on nearly every corner in Palermo, there’s a lot of see. Worthy of a visit are Abatellis Palace, featuring the largest collection of Romanesque to Baroque artwork in Sicily, and the imposing Butera Palace. We also spent an afternoon discovering the Baroque-style Church of Saint Catherine, also a living monastery to a group of nuns until 2014. Along with stunning views from the church’s rooftop, head to the ground floor bakery to indulge in original sweet recipes, “I segreti del Chiostro” (The secrets of the cloister). The cannoli is the best I’ve ever tasted! For a cassata, one of the best bakery’s is Pasticceria Costa.
To discover Palermo with an expert guide, contact Elisabetta Gulizzi who gave us an in-depth tour of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, a majestic Baroque church in the midst of the Capo market. With so much more to see, visit, and taste, Palermo hasn’t seen the last of us yet.
If you’re lucky enough to visit Paris this holiday season, there are several not to miss events that I’m sure you’ll enjoy as much as I did. The Christmas tree at Galeries Lafayette outdoes itself every year. It’s a majestic vision from every angle. Head to the 3rd floor for a close-up view from the Glasswalk, a glass platform 9-meters long and 16 meters high! For a bird’s-eye view of Paris, head up to the rooftop of this historic department where you can go ice-skating until December 31st. Read more, here. In case you miss this ice-skating op, discover the largest ice-skating rink in the world is at Le Grand Palais until January 8th!
BHV MARAIS has also put on a holiday show this year, with its first every Alsatian Market serving specialties every day until December 24th. Take a tour with me in the video below and read more about it, here.
To taste some of the best pastries and chocolat chaud in the French capital, make your way to Place Vendôme where Ritz Paris’s pastry chef François Perret (recently named the best in the world) is baking up sweet treats at their Christmas Chalet. Read more about it, here.
For a thrilling night that will leave you dancing and singing your way home, head to Théâtre du Châtelet which just reopened for a spectacular performance of An American in Paris, in English until January 1st. Read more about this musical here, and order your tickets through Theatre in Paris.
From Porto we rented a car and hit the road. Our first stop was at the surf town of Nazaré. It’s here where the biggest waves ever surfed can be found, although during our visit the sea could not have been calmer.
Following a heavenly lunch of freshly caught fish at restaurant Taberna da Praia, we continued on to Óbidos. This medieval town just an hour north of Lisbon oozes with charm. As soon as we entered the labyrinth of whitewashed houses trimmed in royal blue and bright yellow, we were smitten. Having arrived just in time for sunset, we walked along the wall surrounding the town and delighted in the scenes that unraveled below.
It was the Moors who fortified Óbidos and inspired the minimalist color palette which fit my design aesthetic perfectly. Needless to say, I couldn’t stop photographing every corner of this town!
Home in Óbidos was at The Literary Man, a boutique hotel boasting 70,000 books, the largest collection of books of any hotel in the world! Following dinner at nearby restaurant Jamon Jamon, we curled up by the fire and dove into a few of these literary treasures.
The following day it was time to leave Óbidos and continue our journey south, but not until we tried their local specialty Ginja, a sweet cherry liquor, perfectly paired with chocolate. Yet another reason to love Óbidos!
We continued the long drive until we reached the Algarve and our home for the next few nights, the small town of Carvoeiro. The views from our B&B were of the limestone cliffs so famous to this region of Portugal. As the sun set we settled into our cozy terrace with a bottle of wine from the Duoro Valley, and took it all in.
Just steps away we discovered hidden gem Praia do Paraiso, also known as Paradise Beach, for good reason.
The next morning we embarked on a journey by foot. I had promised my Italian a hike on this trip, and what better than the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, a total of 18km (10 miles) from our B&B. Did I mention this was not an easy hike? But well worth it for the stunning cliffside views!
Nearly at the end, we stopped for a heavenly (and well deserved lunch) at the only open restaurant we could find, and incidentally one of the best, O Pescador. Soon it would be time to return back along the same path, the cliffs glowing beneath us.
I felt very accomplished as we returned to Carvoeiro and resumed our positions on the terrace as the sun set, wine in hand, ending another memorable day in the sun-drenched Algarve.
It was now time to head to our final destination on these adventures in Portugal. But first, my Italian had a surprise stop up his sleeve, as he often does. We had arrived to Santa Luzia, and much to my pleasure I soon found out this was the “capital of octopus”, their local specialty and my absolute favorite! We had quite a feast at Casa do Polvo, tasting seven different types of octopus dishes. Needless to say, we skipped dinner.
Our last stop, and where we would ring in the new year, was nearby Tavira. This ancient Moorish town is considered the most charming in the Algarve. We settled into Tavira House Hotel and took to exploring the neighborhood.
New Year’s Eve brought with it a live concert, filling the small town with thousands of revelers, and at midnight a show of fireworks lit up the sky. As we had spent the last day of 2018, so we spent the first day of 2019, lounging lazily in the sunshine on one of Tavira’s sandy beaches. My Italian went for a run while I dreamt of our next beach getaway, knowing all too well that a wintry Paris awaited us.
With Paris being the fashion capital and home to so many timeless luxury brands, where better to shop the outlets? Namely those French brands we all covet, including Céline, Longchamp, and Lacoste. Having just returned from La Vallée Village, a 45-minute drive, bur or train ride outside of Paris, I can honestly say this is the most stunning outlet shopping center I’ve had the pleasure to visit and shop at. And with 120 international brands at at least 33% off retail prices, open 7 days a week, what’s not to love?
La Vallée Village resembles an actual village, with tree-lined pedestrian streets and pastel-colored facades.
Here’s a little secret. The famous bi-annual Paris sales or soldes as we call them, begin a week early here!
There are plenty of cafes in which to take a break from the thrill of shopping and find serenity over a plate of Ladurée macarons, or hot chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat. At new restaurant Menu Palais, taste cuisine created by expert chef Stéphane d’Aboville in an elegant setting echoing the Mini Palais in Paris.
La Vallée Village is just as fashionable as its shops, all dressed up in festive decor for the holiday season.
The highlight of my visit, aside from the shopping of course, was the lighting ceremony, in which the myriad of lanterns lit up, along with the dozens of facades lining this shopping village. It was musical group Les Parisiennes that officiated the ceremony, followed by an animated concert. (See the ladies on the balcony?)
If you’re planning your own trip to La Vallée Village, which I highly recommend, the easiest way from Paris is via RER A “Val d’Europe” Station or by Shopping Express® Shuttle Service: twice daily from Place des Pyramides.
Having just returned from holidays in Italy, starting with Sardinia and ending with beautiful moments spent with friends and family in Cinque Terre, I have much to share from the last three weeks. Let me begin with the newest addition to my Insider’s Guide to Monterosso. A must for anyone planning a visit. Torre Aurora has quickly become one of my favorite places for an aperitivo with a view. In all my travels I have yet to discover such stellar cocktails combined with such stunning views.
Opened just two months ago, this bar/restaurant is set in a historic 13th century tower, and run by a local.
From the many terraces you have stunning views of Monterosso, as well as all of Cinque Terre in the distance.
You also have a direct view of one of my favorite restaurants L’Ancora della Tortuga, as well as the beaches of Monterosso.
So what’s on the menu at Torre Aurora? Aside from custom cocktails including the famous Aperol Spritz, you can order small plates of local anchovies or octopus salad. Arrive for dinner and feast on Ligurian specialties including fresh pasta and fish. Just be sure to make a reservation!
In case you’re looking for me during the early evening hours next spring or summer, this is where I’ll be.
Our first stop upon leaving Trapani was at a thermal spa, basically a pond in the middle of nature. I was a little skeptical, but when I felt how warm the water was (over 100 degrees Fahrenheit), I sank right in to the sulfur bath. Heaven in the middle of winter!
After a quick lunch (and cannoli) stop in the small seaside village of Trabia, we arrived to the scenic city of Cefalù. With the sun ready to set as we walked along the beach, greeted by a glowing row of homes, it was hard not to become enchanted with our new destination. We soon located our B&B within the narrow streets and began to explore.
The following morning we set our sights on the ancient village set high up above the city with views looking down on the Duomo, a majestic two-towered Norman cathedral.
After hundreds of steps, guided by sunshine peeking through a cloudy sky, we made it to the top. What a view!
We could have stayed longer, as there is always more to discover, but it was time to head south to Ragusa, with a stop for Roman history along the way. The Villa Romana del Casale, a vast villa built in the first quarter of the 4th century, contains the largest and most impressive collection of Roman mosaics in the world.
As we walked through the many rooms, learning about the symbolism of each mosaic, I couldn’t believe how intricate and detailed these scenes were, and how well preserved! We even caught sight of what could very well be considered the first bikinis.
A few hours later we arrived in Ragusa Ibla, the old part of Ragusa destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 and rebuilt in Baroque style. We soon settled into our home for the night, a charming centuries old B&B. The following day we had a date with one of Italy’s top chefs, 2 Michelin starred Ciccio Sultano, at his famed Restaurant Duomo. This was one meal we couldn’t be late for, even on Italian time.
After a meal to remember, we continued to explore this elegant city. I couldn’t get over how picture perfect the views were, both from high above Duomo San Giorgio, and down below. It was a short but sweet encounter.
Upon our exit, we were graced with the most stunning vista of Ragusa Ibla, certain that we’d return again, even if only to dine with Ciccio. Our next stop was where we’d settle in for New Year’s Eve, and a place we knew from our last trip to Sicily, Siracusa.
There was something about the island of Ortigia that left an impression on us. Perhaps it was the food, or the warmth of the people, or in my case the cassata… Whatever it was, we were happy to be back, and to begin a new year in this, one of our favorite Sicilian settings. This time we discovered impressive new wine and food bar Cortile Verga set in a gorgeous courtyard, and SunSet cafe, for exactly that.
Following a night of great feasting and mild revelry, we got in the car for a final drive to Punta Secca, home of Montalbano. It was here that my Italian began the year with a swim in the sea following an incredible meal of freshly caught fish and homemade pasta. After one last sunset we were ready to return to Paris.
This year we headed south for the holidays, destination Sicily. I fell in love with this vibrant island on our first jaunt two years ago, and decided where better to spend a few days over Christmas with the Italian family, and ring in the new year. For part one of the trip, we made our home the city of Trapani at Sicily’s western tip. It wasn’t the old city’s charm that enticed us (I’ve seen better), but its proximity to so many sights and ancient ruins, not to mention the Egadi Islands. What we quickly discovered is that Trapani is a food haven, with Trapanese specialities including Fish Couscous, influenced by neighboring Tunisia, and Pesto alla Trapanese made with tomatoes and almonds. The many fresh fish dishes were exceptional and every day became a dining adventure, with local wines of course (my favorite being a red blend of Frappato and Nero d’Avola grapes). Here’s a list of our top restaurants, all in the old town.
Antichi Sapori for the best traditional dishes (the seafood antipasti alone is worth the visit)
Serisso 47 for fine dining in an elegant setting (rumor has it the chef might be awarded a Michelin star soon)
Sood for live music and small plates of Sicilian specialties with a bio twist (great local vibe)
After settling into our apartments and enjoying the rooftop views, we took to the road. Our first stop was Scopello, a tiny village near Castellammare del Golfo, and what was once a tuna fishing port. The coastline was breathtaking! We also discovered that this is where scenes from our favorite Sicilian detective series Inspector Montalbano were filmed.
From here we drove to Segesta, one of the most notable Siceliot (Sicilian-Greek) ancient cities. We walked the path leading up to the Greek temple, a sight to behold, lit by the late afternoon sun.
Continuing up to the hilltop site where the ancient city was inhabited into the Middle Ages, we discovered the remains of a Norman castle, a small church and a mosque, and a classical amphitheater with admirable views.
The next day we decided to explore another highly esteemed archaeological site, Selinunte. Walking through this abandoned town founded by Greeks in the 7th Century BC, with its main street, homes and temples, you can imagine the life that once took place here.
The day after Christmas we headed for the largest of the Egadi Islands, Favignana, less than an hour by boat. It being winter and the holidays, the island was quiet and most of the restaurants and shops were closed. We did however find a bakery with some of the most delicious cassata and cannoli to date. (Read more about Sicily’s sweets here.) The most stunning landscape on the island was the little gulf called Cala Rossa.
My Italian and I climbed down the rocks to the turquoise water, completely in awe of this cliffside paradise.
On the last day before the two of us continued our adventures solo, we drove up to the medieval hilltop town of Erice. It was the people of this town that also built the town and temple of Segesta. I first noticed the Venus Castle, and soon learned that the temple of Venus outlasted the many civilizations who took residence in Erice.
The town itself is eerily charming with its tones of grays and cobbled paths leading to restaurants, artisanal shops and pasticcerias offering sweets made of almond paste. Here too we found a sweet gem!
Our final stop before saying farewell to Trapani was a Marsala cellar tour and wine tasting at the famous Cantine Florio. The perfect ending to part one of our adventures in Sicily. Next stop, Cefalù…
Arriving to Coquillade Village feels like arriving to a majestic Tuscan villa, welcomed by cypress trees, only this 100 acre Relais & Châteaux property is located in the heart of the Luberon in Provence, with views of the Vaucluse Mountains and Mont Ventoux. It’s location was historically the site for migrating birds, including the crested lark (Couquihado in Provençal), hence the name. Surrounded by vineyards and fields of lavender, this complex of 63 rooms and suites dates back to the 11th century, with most of it augmented and restored in recent years. Very eagerly we settled into our new home, ready to take in the views and its many luxuries.
It was hard to leave our Luxury Suite as we relaxed on the terrace, tasting the local rosé grown in their 89 acres of vineyards. I made a mental note to take a tour and arrange a tasting session during our stay. Back to the room… did I mention we had our own jacuzzi and sauna? More reason not to leave. No attention to detail or comfort was spared! While my Italian went for a run through the vines, I made sure to visit the Coquillade SPA, 1500m2 of serenity for both mind and body, created in 2015. It was hard to leave the eucalyptus hammam! But I was eager to explore the premises and discover exactly what lay within the walls of this “village”.
What I discovered were charming Provençal villas discreetly scattered throughout the property, all revealing private rooms with terraces. There were three restaurants on the premises, Gourmet run by two Gault & Millau head chefs, Ristorante, an Italian establishment, and Bistro with a Mediterranean inspired menu. The latter of these is where we opted to dine al fresco, our backdrop a pastel colored sunset beyond the vineyards. Chef Christophe Renaud certainly left an impression, not to mention pastry Chef René Solnon with his masterful desserts. I’ve always had a weakness for sweets.
Following a visit to nearby Roussillon (more on that later), we spent a sunny afternoon lounging by one of the two heated swimming pools. I envisioned a game of tennis or perhaps the beloved French game of pétanque, but time was limited. We eagerly visited the “BMC Cycling Center” with ambitious goals to ride to a neighboring town, I planned to test out an electric bike, but we chose instead to relax within the charm of Coquillade, followed by a driving tour. We were on holiday after all.
It was certainly hard to bid farewell to Coquillade Village with its friendly staff and luxurious amenities. But we were in the Luberon after all and had come to explore. Where to next? Stay tuned…
Last weekend we celebrated our 5 year wedding anniversary with a trip to Provence. How better to spend such a special occasion than traveling amidst one of the most beautiful settings in France? Our adventures started in Avignon. With only 24 hours to spare, we spent as much time as possible getting lost within the town’s 4.3 kilometers of stone ramparts, viewing modern art, admiring historic landmarks and dining on Provençal specialties. So, how best to spend a day in this 14th century city of art and culture? Here are a few ideas.
STAY in the heart of the town overlooking the main square at Hotel l’Horloge.
VISIT the impressive collection of modern and contemporary art at Collection Lambert.
VISIT the fortress and palace Palais des Papes, the seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century.
DINE at creatively inspired modern bistro L’Agape off the tourist track tucked in a charming square.
DRINK a glass of rosé (or Châteauneuf-du-Pape) in the outdoor cafes overlooking the Palais des Papes.
The following day we hit the road, first stop the small village of Fontaine de Vaucluse. After the a decadent lunch in the most charming garden, we explored the Sorgue river. France’s most powerful spring (and the world’s fifth most powerful), this river supplies the region with water, emerald green and dazzling to the eye!
Next it was time to settle into our stunning home in the Luberon…
Last weekend my Italian and I took a staycation in Paris, crossing the river from rive droite’s trendy 3rd to rive gauche’s chic 7th arrondissement. Why not vacation in your own city? My home was one of Paris Perfect‘s luxurious apartments, and my neighbor was none other than Madame Eiffel herself. Right away I felt welcomed.
Needless to say, I couldn’t stop staring at the iron lady. Whether I sat on the balcony, lay in bed, or sank into a warm bath, there she was. I daresay the Chambertin apartment has quite the view, not to mention charm.
What I quickly learned is that Paris Perfect excels in hospitality and services. A few other guests and I took a traditional French cooking class at the glamorous Margaux apartment, learning to make gougère among other specialties, our meal ending with saffron cream and a lesson in champagne and wine pairing. Parfait!
I was sorry to leave this new home, but alas, every holiday has to come to an end, even one in your own city.
It’s that time of year to slow down and look up. To spend time with those most dear to us, reflect on the year coming to an end, and the one soon to start. The past year has been challenging both personally and globally, and I for one am looking forward to beginning a new one. But first, Christmas. My Italian and I are heading to Rome for a little pre-holiday celebration. I’m looking forward to rediscover this city that I haven’t visited in nearly 15 years. And who better to explore it with than my favorite travel companion! Join me on my adventures in Rome followed by the Italian Riviera, via Instagram and Facebook. Incidentally, I was recently named one of the 20 Paris Instagram Accounts to Follow by Bonjour Paris. I’m honored!
For a little year end news, here’s my holiday newsletter. I’ll be back in the new year sharing more of life and love in the City of Lights, and who knows where 2016 will find me. Thank you for joining me on this beautiful journey.
Wishing you and yours merry everything! Happy new year from the City of Lights!
The holiday season is upon us, as the clock ticks down to the new year. To thank you all for following along on my adventures, (it’s been over six years of love in the city of lights!), and to wish you a very happy new year, I have a few goodies for you that I hope you’ll enjoy as much as I do. Certainly they will compliment any travels you take in the new year. Which leads me to the giveaway… Firstly, you have your choice of Kasia Dietz handbags from my many collections. I’m always happy to share my wearable art, inspired by my travels to Andalucia, Bali, Istanbul, Provence, Giverny… Secondly, to remain on time in whatever timezone you’re in, win $129 towards any hand-crafted Jord Wood Watch. Lastly, what better way to stay in top form in the new year than with mantras by Diana Antholis? Win her latest book Sanity is Sexy: Mantras to Inspire a Healthy Mindset.
To enter, simply mention your favorite Kasia Dietz handbag or clutch and Jord Wood Watch in the comments below, and where you’d like to travel with them in 2016. Winners will be chosen randomly on December 20th. Good luck!
With a quick stop at Kos, another world entirely with it’s myriad of beach bars and rock music, attracting day trippers in search of a spot in the sun. We boarded the next ferry to Symi, my thirteenth island on this, our fourth Greek Island adventure. But who’s counting?
I had no idea what to expect as the ferry approached Symi, part of the Dodecanese island chain. I did know it was a gem with a complex history, occupied by Italy in the 20th century, which could explain it’s colorful facades, and still a favorite to Italians and British.
Growing up on the South Fork, I rarely left the Hamptons. Possessing some of the most beautiful beaches in the US, it provides the ideal respite from life in chaotic New York City, and with family and friends all around, what more does one need? On this trip home however, we decided to venture north to Long Island’s wine country. With over 35 wineries, we decided to stop for tastings at the second oldest Lenz Winery, and Pindar.
The North Fork is a 30-mile-long peninsula, the easternmost part of the North Shore. Orient Point sits on the tip. Between the two forks are two large islands, Shelter Island and Gardiners Island. Much more rural feeling and not as chic as it’s southern counterpart, the North Fork is filled with vineyards, apple orchards and farms. An ideal weekend or day trip.
Enjoying the views along the way, we drove to Greenport where we stopped for lunch.
Our first stop was Setenil de las Bodegas, a small town once famous for it’s vineyards and unique in it’s position. While most of the pueblos blancos were built on protective bluffs, Setenil grew out of caves dwellings in the cliffs above the rio Trejo, north-west of Ronda.
For lunch we drove up to Zahara de la Sierra, a charming village nestled in the mountains.
Once a moorish outpost, Zahara’s Arab and Christian history is evident in it’s architecture.
Our next destination was Tarifa on the southernmost coast of Spain, the Costa de la Luz. We were tempted to board the ferry to Morocco, but saved that for another adventure.
This became home for a few days, as we explored the coast by foot, and on horseback.
Not wanting the pueblos blancos tour to end, we discovered Vejer de la Frontera. This quickly became my favorite of the villages with it’s unassuming charm and maze of streets.
Our last stop was one of the oldest cities in western Europe, Cádiz. We became happily lost in the myriad of historic sights, the uplifting sounds of flamenco, and the local tapas.
Beneath an Andalucian sunset, we ended one year and began another. In love & gratitude.
Friend and fellow traveler Lynne Martin, author of Home Sweet Anywhere(a book I highly recommend) and blogger at Home Free Adventures, asked me to describe celebrating Christmas in Paris as an expat. I took a moment to think about what makes the city of lights even brighter during the holidays, and having spent many a holiday season in Paris, here is what I came up with. You an also find this article online at TravelSmith!
What is it about Christmas time in Paris that truly captivates the senses? Where to begin…
The intimacy of the sidewalk cafes with their heat lamps and blankets, beneath which you can indulge in a glass of seasonal mulled wine. The street vendors selling roasted chestnuts on many a corner. The annual holiday markets scattered around the city, revealing an array of artisanal gift ideas. But I suspect it’s the culinary specialties from various regions of France that draw the crowds. My favorites include raclette and the more decadent tartiflette, hailing from the Haute-Savoie.
Known for their pâtisseries, it’s no surprise that the French celebrate Christmas with cake. The bûche de Noël originally represented the yule log, a sponge cake with a bark-like texture made of buttercream. Many variations can be found around Paris, each more decadent than the last. Beginning in late December, pastry shops in Paris fill their windows with galettes des rois, or King Cake, to celebrate the Epiphany on January 6th. A good luck charm called la fève is baked inside this puff pastry filled with frangipane, and whoever’s piece contains la fève is crowned king or queen for the day. The cobbled streets sparkle, each dressed in it’s own string of holiday lights. The Champs Elysées glows the brightest of all, each year in late November a lighting ceremony takes place, with thousands of fairy lights lit along this grand boulevard. Yet another reason why Paris is so often referred to as the City of Lights.
At the grands magasins including Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marché, and Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, the window displays are reminiscent of theatre sets, revealing animated Christmas scenes that leave both young and old marveling. Often a family trip is taken to view these story-telling windows.
We cannot forget the celebrated churches. My first Christmas in Paris was spent at Notre Dame Cathedral. The choir alone was worth braving the crowds, as they filled the 800 year old space with song, a midnight mass never to be forgotten. Even passing by the Notre Dame by night, the majestic sparkling Christmas tree will take your breath away.
Wherever you are in the world, I wish you happy holidays + a bright and happy new year!
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Last weekend my Italian and I ventured to Italy’s most southern region, Sicily. This was my first trip and his second. I had no idea what to expect in this island rich in culture and cuisine. After taking a swim in the still warm waters of the Mediterranean, we headed to our first destination, the island of Ortygia in Syracuse. This charming city reveals baroque facades with Greek, Roman and Arab influences in it’s centuries old architecture. With Sicilian hospitality, we immediately felt at home.
One morning we spent at the archeological park where a massive Greek theater from 5th-century BC awaits it’s visitors. During the summer season it’s brought to life with classical concerts.
Being adventure seekers, we decided to drive to Noto. Destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, it was rebuilt to become the grandest baroque town in Sicily. Noto was recently added to Unesco’s list of world heritage sites, certainly worth a visit! And did I mention that Noto is known for it’s gelato? More on that later…
The next stop on our Sicilian adventures was Modica. This multi-layered medieval town is uniquely atmospheric with it’s high and low levels, allowing for an incredible view. Here too, you find the most delicious chocolate and confections. How could I resist?
Our last stop was Taormina, the chic, sophisticated town that seduced many an artist and writer in it’s day. Here was the capitol of Byzantine Sicily in the 9th century, and today it remains an international hotspot boasting views of a still active Mount Etna.
Four days spent beneath the Sicilian sun, learning about ancient history, discovering hidden beaches… dining on fresh pasta, fish and local sweets (the latter of which I’m devoting the next blog post to). A perfect holiday.
This year we are celebrating Christmas and New Year in Paris. Much like my first year in the city of lights, with a traditional Polish dinner and midnight mass at Notre Dame… customs that I will treasure throughout my life, regardless of where I live. I’ve been lucky in these last few years to experience an Italian Christmas as well as a few spent in the Florida sun. The greatest gift is having family and friends all over the world, with whom I can celebrate from afar, in gratitude.
Wherever you are in the world, I wish you Merry Christmas, Wesołych Świąt, Buon Natale, Joyeux Noël… and much happiness in the New Year!
With the holidays upon us, and much shopping to do, the world is scrambling to find just the right gift. Not an easy task! These days the ease of shopping online is alleviating much of the stress of driving in heavy traffic only to wait in long lines. During this chaotic hunt for ‘just the right gift’, we are left wondering whether the recipient will even be grateful for the purchase. I remember many a Christmas receiving gifts that was given simply for the sake of gifting, the unused item often ending up in a box hidden in the basement.
Who exactly will be shopping online this year? According to a recent survey the majority of online consumers being 88% in the UK, 86% in the US, 84% in Germany, and 83% in Russia. Why has online shopping become such a trend? For the simple ease and ability to shop anytime & anywhere. Who knew how many people liked to shop in their pajamas!
What makes online shopping so easy, and what I have been using for my business for years, is PayPal. This service allows people to safely send payments without sharing financial information. Already there exist over 132 million active accounts in 190 markets and 26 international currencies.
To assist in your holiday shopping, PayPal has chosen select vendors to help youchoose just the right gift, to give or to receive, and all at a discount. No more reindeer sweaters and argyle socks! Watch this video (in French) showing some of the worst gifts people have received… shampoo?!
Here’s the link to your very own shopping spree, from the comfort of your home. Thank you PayPal!
Growing up, I used to dance ballet, play tennis, go horseback riding and play the piano, all privileged and pleasurable activities. But never did I learn to ski. My family was not the type to take winter holidays to the mountains, rather we would go to Europe to visit with family in the summer months. I never thought I was missing much until as an adult I began to hear stories about the high of the mountains, feeling the crisp air while admiring the panoramic views. What was this feeling exactly? While still living in NYC I ventured up to Hunter mountain to find out. Though it wasn’t until this past week that I experienced the true bliss that can only be felt soaring down the slopes on a pair of skis, slowly and cautiously in my case. And needless to say, terrified. But determined.
We arrived to Alpe di Siusi, high up in the Dolomites, on a chilly evening, and woke up to the same view from our hiking adventure in August. Only this time the mountain hues were whites and blues, seeming to change by the hour.
On overcast afternoons, the snow, mountains and sky would melt together into a blanket of white.
It was upon these slopes, the less intimidating ones, that I put on my skis, as awkward as it felt, ignored the knots in my stomach, listened attentively to my ski instructor and became a skier.
The first two days I did my best, counting the hours until it was time for our evening sauna.
On the third day, having fallen a few times and mastering the smallest slopes, with the support of a friend I made my way down from our hotel at the very top of the hill. I was still in snow plow position but able to turn, rather gracefully I might add. I smiled as my body began to feel in control.
Finally, I understood. I felt that high that is unique to gliding down a snow covered mountain.
On our last day the sun shone brightly and it was hard to say goodbye. Until next time…
Every new year I reflect on the days gone by and set goals for the days ahead, often referred to as resolutions. This year, no more. I’ve come to realize that by thinking about what is not (ie. what I need to work on or improve) I continue to struggle with keeping up and lose sight of all that already is wonderful in my life. So this year I am starting out not with a long list of what I need to do, but a long list of what I am grateful for, much like what I wrote in my giving thanks post. It certainly helps to step away from the routine of life and look from a distance, as I was able to do during these last few weeks in Florida. This trip meant even more than sacred time with family and friends. It has also allowed me to acknowledge and appreciate all that I have been blessed with in my life.
I believe that each of us is writing the book of our lives. It is mostly up to us what is written upon the pages, and how our unique story unfolds. As I write (and re-read) my own, I am grateful for every chapter and look forward to writing the next.
Wishing all my dear readers, fellow romantics and francophiles around the world the happiest of holidays! From the City of Lights (with a glorious display on the Champs-Élysées) to sunny Florida where my Italian and I are spending Christmas with family and the New Year with friends. Time to reflect on the year that is behind us, and think of all that is yet to find us in the days ahead.
Looking forward to sharing many more adventures, travels and musings in 2013!
No better day than today, Thanksgiving to those of us from America, to give thanks. What exactly am I grateful for? Where to begin… When I think back to my first year in Paris, feasting at a faux American restaurant in the rive gauche with people I barely knew, feeling lost and less than grateful to be dining on what tasted like a microwave turkey meal. Three years later I am dining in style with close friends, as I do many nights. Thus begins my list of gratitude. Something we should all be mindful of, all year long.
1. good friends (I’ve even made a few French girlfriends, not an easy feat!)
2. a doting and darling Italian (even with my moods… perhaps this should be #1)
3. my ever supportive and loving mom (what would I do without her!)
4. the ability to communicate in foreign tongues (particularly the French one!)
5. a creative mind (which has allowed me to create my life, via blogging, designing, doing)
6. limitless supplies of culture in many forms (THIS is what makes me thrive in Paris)
7. travel (forever grateful to see the world!)
8. the ability (and courage) to follow my dreams
9. good health (the older I get the more I value well-being)
10. optimism (something I brought with me from the USA)
And so much more. I will remind myself of this list and continue to add to it, in moments of doubt or difficulty. Now time to celebrate life and friendship with a grand feast, American style!
