Check in to these New Paris Hotels

When traveling to Paris, it’s often a question of where to stay. To save you the trouble, here are 12 recently opened 4-star and 5-star hotels, many with stellar views, and one that will make you feel like royalty. In case you’d like even more recommendations, I wrote all about the top new design hotels. And here’s my insider’s guide including dining and shopping. Wherever you choose to lay your head, enjoy your visit to the City of Light!

Cheval Blanc Paris is the first urban address to join the prestigious Cheval Blanc hotel family. Neighboring the newly renovated Samaritaine, this hotspot is located in the heart of the city overlooking the Seine. Read all about this 5-star hotel and dining spot in my features for Conde Nast Traveller UK and Conde Nast Traveler.

Set on a prestigious corner of the Triangle d’Or, the Bvlgari Hotel Paris features 76 rooms, a 25-meter pool, bar and restaurant, and a Parisian courtyard. Designed by Italian architectural firm Antonio Citterio & Patricia Viel, it combines a classic Parisian Haussman-style with a more contemporary façade. And cuisine by superstar Italian chef Niko Romito.

Art Déco-inspired Kimpton St Honoré is the first Paris address for this boutique-hotel brand. Check into one of the 149 bedrooms and enjoy an indoor swimming pool, rooftop cocktail bar Sequoia, and Californian-inspired restaurant, Montecito. Famed designer Charles Zana is behind the 1930’s interiors.

Spend the night in a former 19th-century post office when sleeping at Hôtel Madame Rêve. The sleek space features 82 rooms including 19 suites with Eiffel Tower, Sacre-Coeur, and Notre Dame views. An expansive 1,000 sqm2 rooftop provides panoramic views, while two restaurants offer Mediterranean-style dining and Japanese-influenced cuisine.

5-star address La Demeure Montaigne combines the Parisian spirit and contemporary luxury within its 93 rooms and apartments. Set in an ancient courtyard, restaurant L’Envolée is helmed by Chef Grégory Réjou while the Thalgo spa features an indoor pool.

Sleep in the heart of Saint-Germain when you check in to 5-star Pavillon Faubourg Saint Germain. Every one of the 47 rooms and suites is light and airy, some more modern than others. Dine at the restaurant Les Parisiens followed by the cocktail bar, or dip into the spa where there’s a small plunge pool and treatment rooms.

The first of the Chelly family’s collection of addresses called Les Petits Hôtels was inaugurated steps away from Bastille and Place des Vosges on Boulevard Beaumarchais. Le Petit Beaumarchais invites into 6 bright and contemporary floors featuring 37 rooms imagined by interior designer Charlotte Camus. The spa features a sauna and a double treatment room.

With 28 rooms and 7 spacious suites each offering a unique experience from spirituality to cinema and music, and some overlooking the rooftops of Paris, the refurbished Seven Hotel is located in the heart of the Latin Quarter. The Wellness Chapel offers treatments including sound healing, Gua Sha, Kobido, and body massage.

Discover the bohemian charm of Monsieur Aristide set in the hilly neighborhood of Montmartre. Each of the 25 rooms, some with large terraces and others with duplex suites, are decorated by Paris’s high-end flea markets. This 4-star address is the first eco-conscious hotel from the Monsieur hotel group.

At the heart of the bustling Châtelet/Les Halles district, the Dandy hotel invites into a bobo setting, where bourgeois-boheme décor sets the mood in each of the 36 eclectic rooms. The Parisian-style brasserie includes a terrace for people-watching.

Neighboring the historic flea market Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, cozy up in Philippe Starck-style at the MOB House. Enjoy minimal deco and maximum entertainment (including treasure hunting in the 14 flea markets). This hotel includes 100 rooms, office space, a 100% organic brasserie by Jérôme Banctel (a two-Michelin-starred chef), a gym, and an outdoor pool. As an added bonus, here are my flea market tips.

I thought I’d also share the hotel that trumps them all, especially if you’d like to play the role of royalty. Airelles Château de Versailles, Le Grand Contrôle is set on the grounds of the Palace of Versailles. Read all about this regal address in my feature for Conde Nast Traveller UK as well as Conde Nast Traveler. This was my suite!

Weekend in Saint-Tropez

Having only visited Saint-Tropez off-season during my year-long travels, I was eager to discover this scenic coastal town on the French Riviera before it shut down for the winter. I became further intrigued after writing a story about it for Fodor’s Travel, detailing exactly how Saint-Tropez became the hotspot it is today. This past September, we packed our bags, hopped on the train, and headed south.

Our first stop was a room with a view overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez at Château de La Messardière. I share more about this dream property, here.

After lounging by the pool and indulging in the landscape’s natural beauty, with a stop at Château de La Messardière’s Jardin Tropézina beach club, we headed back down the hill. Next stop, the town of Saint-Tropez.

To dive into the history of Saint-Tropez, we stayed at Hotel Byblos dating back to 1967. Its nightclub Les Caves du Roy was the place to be. Notable figures including Grace Kelly, Prince Charles, Romy Schneider, Lauren Bacall, Paloma Picasso, Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Leonardo DiCaprio and Mick Jagger have passed through the doors. Little has changed in recent years at this timeless hotel that even includes a Missoni suite.

Afternoons were spend wandering the historic town of Saint-Tropez, lost in the maze of streets while restaurants and galleries awaited evening patrons.

Our stay in the south coincided with Les Voiles des Saint-Tropez, a very extravagant Mediterranean regatta.

What a show of sailboats! And what a sunset… Thank you for the end-of-season memories, Saint-Tropez!

Domaine de Primard

A visit to Domaine de Primard nestled on the banks of the Eure River just one hour from Paris makes for the ideal hideaway. This recent addition to Les Domaines de Fontenille’s bespoke hotel collection – launched in 2013 by Frederic Biousse and Guillaume Foucher – is one of their most enchanting. Set upon a sprawling 40-hectare country estate, welcome to a slower and more sustainable life. As Biousse and Foucher put it, a “meaningful, convivial and joyful” home away from home.

Wake up to a soundtrack of birdsong in one of 30 artfully decorated rooms or a plush suite. A moment of reflection on your private terrace can set a perfect mood for the day. The ground-floor living spaces invite you to cozy up with a good book or admire the carefully curated artwork. Whimsical details through the vast space including sculptural snails, birds and mushrooms, each playfully paying homage to nature. Multi-starred Chef Éric Frechon in unison with Chef Yann Meinsel respect the fruitful surroundings with their seasonal menus, both at the bistro Octave and the gastronomic restaurant Églantine. Many of the vegetables and herbs omnipresent in the dishes are homegrown and hand-picked. You’ll quickly understand why the creatively refined cuisine at Églantine is “as much for the taste buds as for the eyes.”

A stroll through the gardens with over 250 varieties of blooming roses is a treat for the senses. This fragrant setting created 30 years ago by renowned landscaper Jacques Hertz remains as he left it. Meanwhile, the neighboring greenhouse with its antique knick-knacks and gardening tools is as curious as it is charming. Take note of the hundred-year-old trees while exploring the rest of the bucolic grounds, equally enjoyed by the estate’s horses and cows.

Relaxing takes on many forms at Domaine de Primard. Take your pick from an invigorating spa treatment using all-natural products by Suzanne Kaufmann, a walk in the neighboring woods or a swim in the heated outdoor pool. However you choose to spend your time, you’re invited to end your day by the lakeside guinguette-style bar for an evening aperitif, happily disconnected. There’s no doubt that this new chapter of an 18th-century home once belonging to Catherine Deneuve reads as a harmonious one.

This story about a rural retreat just an hour from Paris was originally published in France Magazine.

Sleeping with the Stars

Lights, Camera, Action! Welcome, Hotel Paradiso, the first cinema hotel to open its doors, inviting cinephiles from around the world to make themselves at home. Having spent the night at this star-studded hotel created by Nathanaël and Elisha Karmitz of mk2, allow me to share the cinematic experience. Photos by Romain Ricard.

Each of the 34 rooms at Hotel Paradiso in Paris’s right bank is minimally outfitted in colorful decor and original artwork, some with balconies, while two spacious suites feature new releases. Artists JR and Christian Boltanski discreetly fill the space both inside and out. Can you spot Charlie Chaplin?

We happily settled into our well-appointed room, which included a bathtub in direct view of the 3-meter wide projection screen. A film while taking a bath, anyone? And yes, sweet and savory snacks including popcorn are part of the treats on offer.

With a careful curation of both classic films and newer releases, what to watch? We scanned the hundreds of films and found more than a few that piqued our interest, settling on two indie films. While Bob’s Juice Bar offers healthy eats well into the night (and a heavenly breakfast), we opted for sushi delivery from a local spot.

For the dedicated cinephiles, Hotel Paradiso includes private screening rooms from which you can watch films of your choice, including new releases from the VIP room directly above the movie theater. There’s also a karaoke room for after hours.

Another unique feature at Hotel Paradiso is their open-air cinema on the rooftop, with spectacular views of Paris far into the distance. For that, and of course, to catch the latest films in their mk2 movie theater, we’ll be back!

Discovering Warsaw

A few weeks ago I ventured to Warsaw, I city I had often visited as a child en route to summers in Sanok with family. Having not been to Warsaw in well over a decade, I was eager to discover Poland’s vibrant capital city as an adult. What’s more, the most luxurious hotel in all of Poland, Raffles Europejski Warsaw, had just opened its doors. Where better to stay, just minutes away from the city’s Old Town.

Arriving to Raffles Europejski Warsaw, a short drive from the airport, I was in awe at the level of refinement in this over 160-year-old neo-renaissance palace built by Enrico Marconi, dating back to 1857. Far surpassing its former glory, this lavish hotel has redefined Polish luxury, combining historic elements with modern amenities.

Along with my cousin Dagmara who joined me from Kraków, we settled into Hotel Europejski, from the elegant Europejski Grill where we dined on modern Polish cuisine (including a decadent dessert of burnt butter gelato), to a signature drink at the stylish Long Bar, one of Raffles defining features. We also glanced into the humidor, eyeing the selection of single-malts and Armagnac.

Our spacious suite was fit for a queen, or two in this case. Even the marble bathroom was awe-inspiring. Not to mention the unique and inviting design of each room, making you feel very much at home, especially for an artist’s soul such as my own. Each room features original artwork by 120 Polish artists. With almost 500 works, Hotel Europejski contains one of the largest art collections in Poland. I couldn’t resist taking a tour, akin to a museum. Even the spa boasted a mosaic recovered from the hotel’s earlier days, as well as a menu filled with revitalizing treatments. (I recommend the signature massage using essential oils.)

A fan of all things sweet, we quickly discovered Lourse Warszawa patisserie, once the city’s most famous spot for confections and tea. The cakes looked as good as those in Paris, so of course we had to try a few, including Lourse’s signature chocolate cake. Pure heaven!

Minutes away from the hotel sits Warsaw’s Old Town. We spent an afternoon charmed by this medieval neighborhood reconstructed after World War II, also home to the Royal Castle. One of the most well-known restaurants Polka, served us a savory plate of pierogi. Craving more of this Polish specialty, the following day Dagmara and I dined at Stolica, a top spot for traditional Polish cuisine. Even better for something more refined. Another meal was enjoyed at Warszawa Wschodnia at the helm of rising star chef Mateusz Gessler. Open 24 hours and 7 days a week, it’s set in what’s called the Soho Factory, a more industrial part of Warsaw.

There’s no lack of culture in Warsaw, but this quick trip was more about enjoying the lavish comforts of Raffles Europejski Warsaw and the neighborhood. We did make it to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum for a lesson in classical music. The rest we’ll leave for the next visit.

The Heart of London

The last few weeks have been all about family. A European holiday that took my mom to my most beloved places, from Monterosso, Italy to Paris to London, ending in the city where she and my father met years ago. For the grand finale, where better to stay than at One Aldwych, in the very heart of London. We arrived from Paris via the Eurostar, welcomed by bright blue skies. My mom has a habit of inviting the sun wherever she goes.

What was once a newspaper publishing house has in the last 20 years been converted to a privately owned five-star hotel. Though I soon found One Aldwych to be in a class of its own. The staff took every care to make our stay memorable, from the smiles exchanged in greeting to the personal notes left in the room. Not to mention the bed linens, fresh flowers, original artwork throughout the hotel… And did I mention the pool and spa? There’s also a 24-hour gym and private screening room. Had it been raining, I might not have left the hotel.

Just steps away from our room with a gorgeous view sits Covent Garden along with Seven Dials, a convergence of seven streets filled with boutiques, cafes, and plenty of charm. This being one of London’s most picturesque neighborhoods, we set off on foot to explore. We also stopped by the nearby National Gallery for a dose of British and French art. Across the street from One Aldwych, the Somerset House with the Courtauld Gallery houses one of the finest Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collections in the world. Art for days!

To venture further afield from Harrod’s to Oxford Street to Trafalgar Square, we hopped on the famous red London bus and took in the city from the upper deck. Here’s a tip: buy a £5 bus card and ride all day!

One Aldwych hotel is located in the heart of the theater district, evident as the Lion King peers into the windows of the elegant lounge. We opted to dine at the hotel which boasts two gourmet restaurants; Indigo, both locally sourced and dairy and gluten free at the helm of Chef Dominic Teague; and Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, a more high end option from Michelin starred Chef Eneko Atxa. The Lobby Bar itself is worth a visit with its ‘Showtime Menu’ featuring theater themed cocktails. Neither of us could resist as we sipped our Dionysus and Aldwych Mule concoctions before heading to the mezzanine for a decadent dinner. I took note that One Aldwych offers Film & Fizz nights in their 30-seat screening room. Champagne, dinner and a movie, anyone?

It was not easy to leave when the time came, mom back to the US and I to Paris. Without a doubt there was no better place to end our mother/daughter sojourn than in the luxurious and friendly embrace of One Aldwych.

Hotel Grands Boulevards

I’m always on the lookout for new boutique hotels, particularly when we travel, but even in Paris. Especially if the hotel is designed by Dorothée Meilichzon. Just one month ago l’Hôtel des Grands Boulevards opened it’s doors in the heart of the city, in a space that once housed a cinema before becoming a bourgeois residence. Nestled between the historic Bourse and trendy Sentier neighborhoods, with the energy of Strasbourg Saint-Denis just steps away, this masterpiece by the Experimental Group merits dinner, drinks and an overnight.

Taking the elevator up to the fourth floor, we settled into one of the fifty rooms, a spacious design haven reminiscent of a chic Parisian apartment. The art deco bed exhibited a regal canopy amid natural elements, including exposed wood beams. The plush feather bed was fit for a queen, Marie Antoinette to be exact. She would have approved of the bathroom too.

Throughout the hotel, Dorothée Meilichzon kept the building’s history intact, including select elements from Louis XVI’s era. What a clever use of vegetation, trellises, gates and a fountain to evoke a rustic atmosphere reminiscent of the 18th century balanced with the splendor of the “Grand Siècle”.

We eagerly dined at the Grand Restaurant, a collaboration with celebrated chef Giovanni Passerini, set within a covered courtyard. Scoring seats at the bar, we feasted on a menu of French-Italian country classics including steak tartar with hazelnuts and smoked ricotta, and homemade gnocchi with lamb stew.  Délicieuse! (The following morning’s gourmet breakfast of homemade granola and seasonal jams was also remarkable.)


The restaurant’s bathroom revealed an inviting mélange of tiles and wallpaper, creating a world of its own.

I had my eye on the dimly lit cocktail bar, featuring creative libations based on their strength, with or without spirits. Having opened Experimental Cocktail Club in 2007, they are known for their cocktails, after all.

I’m already looking forward to returning to Hotel Grands Boulevards, a calm design haven in the heart of Paris.

Courchevel 1850

Last week I discovered the most chic winter destination in France. Courchevel is a ski resort in the French Alps. Part of Les Trois Vallées, it’s the largest in the world. Courchevel alone is made of up of three levels, the highest being 1850 meters up in the mountains. This was where we were headed. Having only skied in the U.S. and Italy, I was looking forward to the adventure.

Just over three hours after leaving Paris I arrived to hotel Le Strato, set high up in the mountains. This five-star alpine hideaway revealed stunning views of the Alps, with skiers passing by on the paths just outside my window. I was in snow-capped heaven! I breathed in the fresh mountain air as I settled into my luxurious room.

This family run hotel is one-of-a-kind. Opened in 2009 by “a young lady of over 80,” it was the realization of a dream for Jeannine Boix-Vives. It’s named for the Strato skis that had contributed so much to the Rossignol brand’s fame, a company once owned by Jeannine and her family. As she so wisely states “dreaming alone will not determine your destiny.” Every detail in the 25 suites is taken into consideration, from the elegant modern decor to the unique comforts (catching up on the news from the bathtub, for one). The unrivaled spa uses Sothys products and features two saunas, a steam-room, jacuzzi, gym and indoor pool. (My signature massage was heavenly!) I was thrilled too, to take an invigorating yoga class, adding to the bliss I already felt.

Symbolic of the three generations running Le Strato, family paintings hang in the library, dining room and along the corridors, complimented by wooden sculptures and artwork collected from around the world.

What makes Le Strato even more of a haute destination is its Michelin-starred gastronomy.  Restaurant Baumanière 1850 is run by Jean-André Charial (owner of the famous Michelin 2-star restaurant l’Oustau de Baumanière in Baux-de-Provence). With executive chef Lowell Mesnier working closely with chef Glenn Viel and Jean-André Charial, the food alone is worth the trip. Having already tasted Glenn’s cuisine on my visit to Baumanière, I knew I would dine like a queen. Every evening I looked forward to the gourmet feast following a cocktail at the cozy bar, live music filling the space. Breakfast in the same regal setting was an introduction into local tastes.

Ready to discover the mountains, I headed to the ski room for my gear, booked a teacher to guide me through the slopes and headed down the hill directly from the hotel. With many blue pistes to choose from, as well as a handful of red for those more advanced, I felt completely at ease. This was paradise!

Guided by the sun, we skied the smooth snow all the way down to the village and took the chair lift back up, with views of Mont Blanc in the distance. It took a few years, but finally I was feeling that ski high unique to those dedicated to the sport. I was elated and couldn’t wait to return with my expert Italian skier!

I even encountered art in the mountains during my first ever racket walk, a healthy alternative to skiing. “Doggy John” by painter and sculptor Julien Marinetti stands 175 cm at 2238 meters high.

Before the return to Paris I took a petit pause on the terrace, filled with gratitude at having experienced this tasteful family chalet that honored one woman’s life, while providing happiness to so many others.

Faena District

Having been to Miami over a dozen times for both work and play (namely Art Basel for the latter), I usually found myself nestled into a hotel in South Beach, along with everyone else who escaped to this sunny enclave. This time however, I explored a new area, removed from the crowds and with a charm and distinction all its own. Ten minutes north of South Beach in Mid-Beach sits the recently coined Faena district, Miami’s latest It spot. Having experienced the Faena Hotel in Buenos Aires, I could already envision the artful grandeur. Making a name for itself in late 2014 thanks to Argentian entrepreneur Alan Faena and his NY based business partner, this district includes two hotels and a performing arts theater.  I was eager to discover the historic boutique hotel Casa Claridge’s, or Casa Faena, once an apartment building built in 1926.

Upon entering you feel transported to another world, one in Spain or even Morocco. The luminous library in the hotel’s inner courtyard is well-equipped with literature and design books. I could easily have spent the afternoon here, or reading on the roof deck, but there was a beach umbrella calling my name. We quickly settled into our room, a spacious King with balcony and views to the beach, the next stop.

Little makes me happier than a shady spot in front of the sea. With so many festivals and activities going on during Miami’s high-season, we were still able to avoid the crowds and revel in what felt like a private beach. Once the sun set we headed to the laid-back Broken Shaker, a stellar bar nearby that opened in 2012, and dined at their new 27 restaurant. The next morning we were back on the beach, with just a quick walk to the Faena family’s latest addition, Hotel Faena, opened a year ago.


This modern hotel, a contrast to complement its historic predecessor, was just the place I’d like to check-in to for a few more days. Complete with gym, spa, pool and two gourmet restaurants, there was much to discover. And let’s not forget the neighboring Faena Theater, reminiscent of Old Hollywood. A destination unto itself, was there really any reason to ever leave the Faena District?

Weekend in the 8th

I’m of the opinion that in order to truly appreciate where you live, and not take it for granted or let it wear you down (yes, even Paris) you must once in a while play tourist.  So every year I plan a local weekend escape for my Italian and I. This year it was across town to Hôtel Daniel in the 8th arrondissement. This Relais & Châteaux haven hidden just behind the Champs-Élysées and steps away from rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoréis a four-star gem. We were looking forward to moving in!

Upon entering I felt as though I had been invited to a private home. The vibrant living room was filled with travel artifacts collected by the hotel’s owners during their journeys around the world, which I would soon discover ornamented all 26 of the unique rooms and suites. The decor revealed a unique combination of Toile de Jouy materials with chinoiserie-style motifs. Even the basket for my tea kettle looked like an artifact from the Silk Road.

Once my handsome date arrived we settled into our room on the top floor, overlooking the Parisian rooftops. We both favored the cozy loveseat with a view and knew that would be where we’d sunbathe while reading the morning paper.

On Friday night we happily caroused the quartier, feeling like we were indeed visiting from faraway. At the hotel’s recommendation we dined at 110 de Taillevent, where 110 wines are available by the glass. Impressive! It was a perfect meal on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, a nice change from our usual right bank eateries. For breakfast we opted not to part with the views, ordered room service and dined with the sun.

That day we went window shopping on the Champs-Élysées and explored the annual Christmas Market, vin chaud in hand. My Italian went running in new territory and I stopped by neighboring Gagosian Gallery, one of my favorites for stellar art exhibits. After tea time at our new home, we headed out once more for dinner, with no clear plan in mind, only to get lost in our new neighborhood.

Le Negresco

My last trip to the Côte d’Azur was in March. I spent a little time in Nice but was eager to become better acquainted with this, the region’s capital. Aside from its Mediterranean climate, it’s a city of art and culture, another reason to fall in love with it. To properly immerse myself in the world of French art, where better to stay than at the historic hotel Le Negresco. Centrally located between Cannes and Monaco, it sits on the famous Promenade de Anglais. It is here in this National Historic Monument, that the French works of art from Louis XIII to modern art, have a home. I knew I would be in good company.

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Upon entering, the grandeur of this hotel is hard to describe. I’ve stayed in many beautiful hotels around the world, but Le Negresco is in a class of its own. The Versailles Lounge alone takes your breath away, with Louis XIV’s portrait, marble floors, hand-painted ceiling, and elegant furnishings. The fireplace too, is original. I could imagine the decadent events having taken place in this salon since Henri Negresco opened the hotel in 1913, now over 100 years old.

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Next I entered the Royal Lounge, centrally situated beneath a large glass dome. This is Negresco’s soul, and you can certainly feel it. Once an elegant ballroom, it’s now an elaborate event space, displaying portraits of French royalty, including Napoleon III. A stunning Baccarat chandelier provides the centerpiece. Fittingly, the hotel’s 93 year old owner Jeanne Augier’s portrait also has a place on the wall. After all, it is she who welcomes each guest to her home, which she has taken great pride in decorating. She lives on the top floor with her cat, and ensures that this private, family run hotel remains at the highest 5-star level in comfort and cuisine.

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A good friend from Nice had often spoken about the restaurants at Le Negresco, particularly the vibrant and colorful La Rotonde. It’s in fact an 18th century carousel with wooden horses circling the restaurant. My eyes opened wide in amazement as I entered this space and understood immediately why it’s such a warm and welcoming place dedicated to families. The terrace opens up to the sea and this is where I chose to have lunch, accompanied by the sun. Breakfast would be enjoyed in the carousel.

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Le Negresco is also known for its haute cuisine. Le Chantecler is Nice’s finest restaurant, with two stars in the Michelin Guide under the culinary expertise of chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. He defines his cuisine and style as “inspired by Provence, with the respect of its products and traditions”. This is THE place for French gastronomy, boasting a wine cellar of over 15,000 bottles, with woodwork dating back to 1751. After dinner you can unwind at the neighboring bar with live music and a good digestif.

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With each of the 96 rooms and 21 suites uniquely decorated with period furniture, I was eager to take a closer look. Mrs Augier being an art connoisseur and collector, walking through the hotel and up the four floors feels much like being in a museum, with artwork from Salvador Dali and Sonia Delaunay, tapestries from Raymond Moratti and sculptures from Niki de Saint Phalle, to name a few. And the rooms? Timeless perfection.

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I felt very much at home in my room overlooking the Bay of Angels and knew I would return to this Art Hotel called Le Negresco.

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Grand Sud : Part II

The following day it was time to visit the medieval town of Carcassonne, located in the Landuedoc region. I was eager to explore this World Heritage Site. Arriving just in time for lunch, I opted for the speciality of the region. Cassoulet is a slow-cooked casserole traditionally made with white beans and pork. Delicious! Onwards to the main attraction, the medieval citadel La Cité. First built in Gallo-Roman times, various additions were made in the 13th and 14th centuries. It’s hard even to describe the grandness of this hilltop fortress.

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Within the walled Cité sits Château Comtal, a 12th-century castle. Led by an expert guide, I discovered this castle and its ramparts, which provided an incredible view of the town. I was blown away (quite literally in fact) by all the history. For a view from afar, I headed to the River Aude, followed by a walk around Carcassonne’s center.

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I also discovered the historic Canal du Midi, excavated in the XVIIth century, which links the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. I watched as numerous boaters used this main waterway along their route through Carcassonne. In 1996 it became a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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As the sun was preparing to set, it was time to head back to the citadel. Just opposite  the 12th-century Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse, and a 2-minute walk from the Château Comtal, sat Hôtel de la Cité, my home for the night. What a regal setting! I already knew it would be hard to leave in the morning.

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I toured the elegant hotel, where once upon a time Winston Churchill slept, as did Princess Grace and Walt Disney. Now it was my turn to slumber within this Neo-Gothic mansion built in the XIX century. I couldn’t stop staring at the views from my balcony, rightfully so as the light kept changing and dusk settled in, the town illuminated in the distance.

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My next stop was dinner at La Barbacane, their Michelin star restaurant. Yes, I did feel like a princess in a castle. Thankfully, it wasn’t yet midnight and the dream continued.

 

 

Escape to Chantilly

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It rarely becomes extremely hot in Paris. But when it does, little relief can be found. Last weekend we experienced such a heatwave, called a canicule. That was reason enough to leave the heat and flee to the countryside. But who needs a reason. So we jumped on the train and in 30 minutes arrived to Chantilly. We first visited the château with my mom a few years ago, and knew one day we’d return. Now was as perfect a time as any. After a quick lunch stop we headed directly for our luxurious haven in the shade, Auberge du Jeu de Paume.

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This stunning five-star Relais & Chateaux property sits overlooking the majestic Château de Chantilly, bringing new meaning to the term ‘room with a view’. Our suite overlooked the English gardens. Immediately the late summer heat faded into the distance as I relaxed to the calming sounds of the fountains down below, and watched as the swan made her laps in the pond. A perfect weekend getaway.

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This four-year old hotel’s spacious rooms are fashioned with classic toile de Jouy fabrics and handcrafted woodwork, no details spared. The Hermès bath products in the marble bathrooms were a treat. Not to mention the decadence of the plush bed! We both slept very soundly, with the help of a little air-conditioning.

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After a morning of yoga on the terrace and a visit to the full-service spa and fitness room, we splurged on breakfast on our terrace. Heavenly! Not a soul in sight aside from an occasional triathlete running by in the gardens. Little did we know, it was the weekend of the Castle Triathlon Series. What a gorgeous setting! It almost inspired me to join for next year. (I’ll stick to yoga!)

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For dinner we opted for Le Jardin d’Hiver, the chic bistro featuring seasonal fare created by Arnaud Faye, 2* Michelin Chef at La Table du Connétable, their more elegant and gourmet dining option. What a decadent feast! We ended the night with a glass of wine on our terrace, beneath a starry sky. Ah, romance…

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What’s a trip to Chantilly without a visit to the château, a five minute walk from the hotel, and a stop for the very thing the town is known for, aside from lace that is. The BEST and original Chantilly cream is found at Le Hameau on the grounds of the château. (I could write an entire blog post about it, heaven on a plate!)

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The rest of our afternoon was spent watching the triathlon and cheering them on, picnicking in the garden, and admiring the history surrounding us.

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Before returning to Paris we made one final stop to the Grandes Écuries for a horse show and visit to the museum. Also known as the Living Museum of the Horse, here can be found the largest stables in Europe. It was constructed in the 18th century as an actual horses’ palace, how fancy! Growing up horseback riding and with a love for these gentle creatures, this was quite a highlight for me. I would gladly have galloped back to Paris.

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Coquillade Village

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Arriving to Coquillade Village feels like arriving to a majestic Tuscan villa, welcomed by cypress trees, only this 100 acre Relais & Châteaux property is located in the heart of the Luberon in Provence, with views of the Vaucluse Mountains and Mont Ventoux. It’s location was historically the site for migrating birds, including the crested lark (Couquihado in Provençal), hence the name. Surrounded by vineyards and fields of lavender, this complex of 63 rooms and suites dates back to the 11th century, with most of it augmented and restored in recent years. Very eagerly we settled into our new home, ready to take in the views and its many luxuries.

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It was hard to leave our Luxury Suite as we relaxed on the terrace, tasting the local rosé grown in their 89 acres of vineyards. I made a mental note to take a tour and arrange a tasting session during our stay. Back to the room… did I mention we had our own jacuzzi and sauna? More reason not to leave. No attention to detail or comfort was spared! While my Italian went for a run through the vines, I made sure to visit the Coquillade SPA, 1500m2 of serenity for both mind and body, created in 2015. It was hard to leave the eucalyptus hammam! But I was eager to explore the premises and discover exactly what lay within the walls of this “village”.

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What I discovered were charming Provençal villas discreetly scattered throughout the property, all revealing private rooms with terraces. There were three restaurants on the premises, Gourmet run by two Gault & Millau head chefs, Ristorante, an Italian establishment, and Bistro with a Mediterranean inspired menu. The latter of these is where we opted to dine al fresco, our backdrop a pastel colored sunset beyond the vineyards. Chef Christophe Renaud certainly left an impression, not to mention pastry Chef René Solnon with his masterful desserts. I’ve always had a weakness for sweets.

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Following a visit to nearby Roussillon (more on that later), we spent a sunny afternoon lounging by one of the two heated swimming pools. I envisioned a game of tennis or perhaps the beloved French game of pétanque, but time was limited. We eagerly visited the “BMC Cycling Center” with ambitious goals to ride to a neighboring town, I planned to test out an electric bike, but we chose instead to relax within the charm of Coquillade, followed by a driving tour. We were on holiday after all.

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It was certainly hard to bid farewell to Coquillade Village with its friendly staff and luxurious amenities. But we were in the Luberon after all and had come to explore. Where to next? Stay tuned…

Melenos Lindos

We arrived to Rhodes and immediately fell under the spell of its majestic medieval city, the largest walled city in Europe. We explored the tangle of roads which led to the Jewish Quarter and paid a visit to the impressive Archaeological Museum. But our main destination was the town of Lindos, an hour by bus and a world of difference.

IMG_0884Rising over the traditional white homes of Lindos sits an acropolis dating back to the 10th century BC. As we ventured up the hill, we arrived to our home, Melenos Lindos, what appeared to be a village within a village; a world of its own that I was eager to discover.

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night at the library

Once upon a time, in what now feels like another lifetime, I worked on Madison Avenue. Just down the street from my office sat the Library Hotel, and I would often pass it during my lunch break, wondering what lay beyond it’s scholarly doors, was there really a library? On this trip to New York, being an avid reader, I booked a room and planned to find out.

IMG_2479Stepping into the hotel feels like entering a library, books and card catalogs lining the walls.

IMG_2435_2What I soon discovered was that the concept of the Library Hotel is inspired by the Dewey Decimal system. As per this famous method of classification (developed by Melvil Dewey in the US in 1876) each of the 10 guestroom floors is dedicated to one of the 10 categories of the Dewey Decimal System. In turn, each of the 60 rooms are filled with books and art concerning their unique topic. With over 6,000 books, there is plenty to read!

IMG_2481 3The theme of our room was mysteries, how fitting for a mysterious night in Manhattan!

IMG_2488_2With an impressive view of the New York Public Library, I truly felt surrounded by literature.

IMG_2425Venturing outside, the city lights shone brightly, with regal Grand Central in the distance.

IMG_2476_2During the complimentary buffet breakfast we met fellow travelers from around the world.

IMG_2430_2Most enchanting of all are the views from the Writer’s Den and Poetry Garden on the 14th floor rooftop. By night it becomes Bookmarks Lounge, serving literary inspired cocktails.

IMG_2549Where better to read the New York Times or a good book, over a cup of coffee and a view.

IMG_2500_2I can’t wait to return to the Library Hotel, a literary haven in the heart of New York City. Next time the romance room?

first class dining

I don’t often write about dining, but this meal was one to remember! Last week I had the pleasure of joining France Today website editor, a site and magazine for which I write, for a decadent lunch at Le Cinq. Five-courses. Two Michelin stars. New chef Christian Le Squer, (who himself holds three stars). Does it get much better than this? Actually, it does. We had the privilege of touring the famed wine cellar. Now, that is a something to write about.

IMG_6768I couldn’t wait to try Le Squer’s menu, this “creator of savors and composer of tastes.

IMG_6764 The amusebouches were incredible! Each a unique melange of flavors to fill the palate.

IMG_6775The meal started with a sweet onion filled with oysters and carmelized onions.

IMG_6776 Next, Mont Blanc as Egg Soufflé with black truffle. Heavenly!

IMG_6783My main dish was wild sea bass with caviar in ‘fermented milk from my childhood’.

IMG_6791A little cheese before dessert? My choices included soft truffled brie and Mont d’Or.

IMG_6799This sweet caramel concoction was simply divine!

IMG_6805My dessert was an original work of art, and truly had to be tasted to be understood.

IMG_6813Breton specialty Kouing-Amann to end the meal on a sweet note.

IMG_6850Having tasted a variety of wines with our meal, each carefully selected to complement the dishes, it was a privilege to tour the cave. Built during WWII, Four Seasons George V‘s wine cellar is hidden 14 metres (45 feet) below the ground. With nearly 50,000 bottles, it’s filled with vintage treasures, including over 2,800 French and international wines.

IMG_6843Here’s one I wouldn’t mind tasting! (The magnum Petrus 1964 is valued at 40,000 euros.)

IMG_6828The oldest bottle in the collection is a 1792 Madeira. Impressive!

IMG_6891Every time I pass by hotel George V, I will fondly recall this first class culinary experience.

Peninsula paradise

In 1908, at the height of the Belle Époque, one of Paris’s most luxurious hotels opened at 19 Avenue Kléber in the 16ème arrond. Hotel Magestic was among the most elegant addresses in Paris and certainly a place to see and be seen! In the decades to follow, this late 19th century Haussmanian building lost it’s luster as it’s hotel doors closed and instead it housed various organizations.

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It was in 2008 that Katara Hospitality group decided to restore the building and create in it’s grand space the Peninsula Paris. I was lucky enough to be invited to the preview of this, the first Peninsula Hotel in all of Europe, and the 10th in the world.

Kleber EntranceI arrived to a red carpet, jazz musicians and champagne flowing! Following a presentation on the building’s history and the meticulous attention to detail in the restoration and modernization process, we met the highly skilled chefs & pâtissiers in charge of the hotel’s six dining options. Executive Chef Jean-Edern Hurstel’s “farm to table” philosophy is certain to please many a palate.

L'Oiseau Blanc Terrace copyPerhaps my favorite of the restaurants is L’Oiseau Blanc (The White Bird) situated on the rooftop. Is it here where I met the Marchand brothers, the hotel’s fromagiers, and tasted an exquisite goat’s cheese with a hint of rose. Following this dairy decadence I was served a dessert that I cannot even begin to describe, a creation by award-winning Chef Pâtissier Julien Alvarez. With a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower, I could envision the many lavish evenings that were soon to come to life in this new found paradise.

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As I toured the hotel, I took note of the many historic details. Some of France’s finest artisans were hand-picked to restore this grand structure to it’s former glory. Needless to say, what resulted in the 6 years of restoration is the ultimate in French craftsmanship.

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On August 1st the Peninsula Paris will welcome it’s first guests, in regal style. And in the days to follow I will certainly be one of them, at the least sipping a cocktail on a familiar terrace.