Royal Abbey of Fontevraud

June 2, 2018

Welcome to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 along the borders of three regions, Anjou, Touraine and Poitou. Considered the jewel of the Loire region, this is the largest surviving monastery dating from the middle ages. Also a convent, the Abbey welcomed nobles with royal blood for seven centuries. Following the revolution, Napoleon converted Fontevraud into one of France’s most brutal prisons. So it remained until 1963.

One of the first buildings in France to be named a historical monument in 1840, in 2000 the Abbey of Fontevraud was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the Loire Valley. What’s happening in the abbey these days? Let me take you on a little tour…

Set upon 34 acres, there is plenty to explore both inside and outside of this monumental abbey. The feeling while touring the grounds is one of complete tranquility and deep mysticism. Undoubtedly a magical setting.

The church once held up to 400 nuns and is now the resting place of Plantagenet Kings: Henry II and his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, their son, Richard the Lionheart, and Isabelle d’Angoulême, King John’s second wife.

The Renaissance style cloisters were the heart of the monastery, rebuilt in the 16th century. The simple garden of boxwood, grass and flowers is reminiscent of paradise lost, echoing the four rivers in the Garden of Eden.

The Chapter house was where the community gathered to make administative and spiritual decisions. Outside of this room, silence was imposed. The decor, intricate carvings and Renaissance murals of the Passion of Christ by local artist Thomas Pot, signifies the importance of this room.

In addition to the treasure chamber where historical objects are on view from the Abbey’s origins, the nuns’ dormitory hosts contempory art installation “Mort en été” by Claude Lévêque. Enter into a fantastical nightscape, of dreams or nightmares. Or maybe this is a trip on the Loire at sunset…

Art has become an integral part of the abbey. Every year the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud invites artists to take residence, where they can create original works in art, music and film. What an inspirational setting!

In 2014 it became possible to sleep and dine within this majestic setting with the opening of Fontevraud L’Hôtel. Stylishly modern rooms provide the perfect refuge amid this thousand-year-old heritage. Set inside a former priory, dine at the helm of one Michelin star Chef Thibaut Ruggeri at Bocuse d’Or. The restuarant alone makes the abbey worth a visit! Following your meal, take a stroll with only the light of the moon to guide you.

There is much more to highlight at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, including their steps toward sustainability by use of solar energy and vegetable gardens on premises. Digital tools used throughout the tour make the visit interactive and even more memorable. The rest I will leave for you to discover.

Château de Chenonceau

May 29, 2016

Moments upon arriving to Château de Chenonceau, this majestic castle with its immaculate landscaped gardens, captivated us both. Set upon the River Cher, I now understood why this was the favorite château of many. This 16th century marvel of Gothic and early Renaissance architecture stood tall against gray skies, the Marques tower across the bridge from the château. What adds to the unique history are the women who called this their home. The favorite residence of Catherine de Medici, while Diane de Poitiers was its mistress. But it was Louise Dupin who saved the château from destruction during the French Revolution, stating that “It was essential to travel and commerce, being the only bridge across the river for many miles.”

The interior of the château was equally regal. The grand ballroom once held festivities organized by Catherine de Medici in honor of her son King Henri III.

Catherine de Medici’s Renaissance bedroom was outfitted with rare Flanders tapestries from the 16th century, and a painting by Correggio representing ‘The Education of Love’.

To prove his devotion to both his wife and his mistress, King Henry II gave them each a garden. This one was Catherine’s, a design of 5 lawns centered around an elegant circular pond, “intimate” at 5,500m2.

Diane’s garden, composed of two perpendicular and two diagonal paths bordering eight large, lawned triangles is 12,000m2 in size. Each season reveals a variety of blossoms.

It was difficult to leave this stunning landscape and the stories it told. With one last glance we bid farewell.

weekend in the Loire

December 18, 2011

The Loire Valley is quickly becoming one of my most beloved areas of France. Ever since our first Loire by bike trip amidst the grand château earlier in the year. Last weekend we planned another Loire adventure, this one to the scenic village of Amboise, festive and calm in it’s off-season charm. A perfect escape from the pre-Christmas chaos of Paris.

We arrived to a scene reminiscent of a painting.

And there it was, the Château d’Amboise, nestled into the skyline, awaiting our arrival.

But first, a quaint village waiting to be explored. (Would we find a restaurant open? Barely.)

A tour of the Château d’Amboise, home to many of France’s nobility, proved a regal experience.

To say nothing of it’s grounds. Enchanting!

Our last day, guided by the sunshine we visited the Château du Clos Lucé, where Leonardo da Vinci, along with Mona Lisa, had spent the last four years of his life. It was here that we entered not simply the home but the mind of this genius. Within the château and it’s gardens are displayed many of da Vinci’s creations. I was struck by how advanced he was for his time. A painter, sculptor, architect, engineer, botanist, musician, writer… My Italian smiled proudly at the brilliance of one of his own.

It was an ideal weekend. Already we are planning the next trip… a château or two remain.