Weekend in Madrid

February 9, 2020

The first time I visited Madrid was many years ago during the university years. I decided it was time to return to the Spanish capital. On this sojourn, rather than solely play tourist, I wanted to discover the many eclectic neighborhoods and the local food scene.

SLEEP: Our journey began at Bless Hotel Madrid in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. This design-savvy boutique hotel recently celebrated its first birthday. From this location nearby to El Retiro Park we could explore much of Madrid by foot or hop on a metro. Here too we dined at one of the culinary capital’s most gourmet addresses, Michelin-starred chef Martín Berasateguis restaurant, Etxeko. Meaning “at home” in Basque, the tasting menu was a heavenly gastronomic experience from both land and sea.

EAT: Fifteen minutes away by foot we explored the colorful Chueca neighborhood, quick to become a favorite district. San Antón Market, a three three-floor food hall offers dozens of dining options, both Spanish and international, along with a rooftop bar. Modern tapas bar Baco y Beto proved a favorite dinner spot. Closer to the hotel, La Maruca restaurant was another stellar address.

SHOP (AND EAT): On Sundays, El Rastro flea market takes over the historic La Latina neighborhood. Filled with local artisans and vintage stalls, an entire afternoon can be devoted to treasure hunting. In between shopping, some of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars entice with their simple offerings. Casa Amadeo is famous for their escargot, while Bar Santurce specializes in freshly grilled sardines. A more gourmet tapas experience was enjoyed at restaurant Juana La Loca.

VISIT: Our tour of Madrid’s most famous sights took us from Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square reconstructed in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva and unchanged since, to the Royal Palace, home to centuries-old collections of paintings, furniture, and armor. Nearby landmark Teatro Real of Madrid was once a leading theater in Europe. Next time we’ll book tickets to the opera.

WATCH: In the country where flamenco originated, we set our sights on a lively street performance in an inviting city square. For a more authentic experience, Corral de la Morería dating back to 1956 is the oldest locale in Madrid. Another notable address is Torres Bermejas.

With only a few days to bask in the culture of Madrid, there’s much more left to see and to taste. We’ll be back!

Adventures in Portugal : Part one

January 13, 2019

This year for the holidays my Italian and I decided to embark on a new adventure. After becoming enamored with Lisbon while visiting the city two years ago, we vowed to return and explore more of this vibrant country. How better to discover Portugal’s secrets than via a Viking river cruise up and down the Duoro?

The journey began in Lisbon where I was eager to become reacquainted with this dynamic city while discovering more of its treasures.

These included the Belém Tower, built on the Tagus river between 1514 and 1520 under the reign of Manuel I as part of the city’s defense system.

Not far away, our expert guide led us to Jerónimos Monastery, a spectacular 500-year-old masterpiece. This symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery is one of the most visited sights in Lisbon.

The last stop in Lisbon was to The National Azulejo Museum where I learned all about the art of Portuguese tiles. It was the Portuguese that first created mosaics upon their azulejo tiles, as evidenced in these decorative tiles, some dating back to the 15th century. I even had the chance to create my own.

En route to Porto we stopped at the medieval town of Coimbra. Here sits the oldest university in Portugal, and one of the oldest in the world. The University of Coimbra was established in 1290 and is believed to be the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. Walking around this World heritage site, I could see where J.K. Rowling found her inspiration.

It was now time to board our Viking vessel and discover the enchanting Duoro river valley, right from our cabin.

As soon as we left Porto, a magical landscape of vineyards and lush greenery unraveled before our eyes. Sitting aboard the Viking Torgil I became mesmerized by the changing colors as we sailed along the river.

Our first stop along the Duoro was to the majestic Mateus Palace. Built in the early 18th-century, this palace boasts the finest baroque architecture in Portugal. An impressive collection of artifacts and furnishings from around the world fill the interior rooms, including a vast library. Part of the palace is still lived in by the family who own it. The perfectly manicured gardens were modeled after Versailles.

What made this Viking journey even more thrilling was an overnight stop to Salamanca, Spain. I had first visited this historic city as a student and couldn’t wait to explore it again with my Italian in tow.

From the Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1120 to the new Baroque cathedral, both elaborate works of art, to the 13th-century university, Salamanca is filled with architectural riches. Our eyes opened wide as we toured the city with our Viking guide.

I was completely enchanted with the House of Shells as it’s called, now the Public Library of Salamanca. Combining Gothic, Moorish and Italian styles of architecture, this former library constructed in the 15th-century features 400 shells on its exterior facade. Mere decoration or a symbol of love? My theory would be the latter. The views of the cathedral from within this, the oldest library in Europe, were breathtaking!

After touring Salamanca’s university, one of the oldest in the world, it was time to head back to the Viking Torgil just in time to celebrate Christmas in Portugal.

On Christmas Eve we were invited to spend midnight mass at the Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies in Lamego. We were moved by attending mass in this church dedicated to Mary, the Mother of Jesus. For Christmas day we returned to this sacred church, walking the 686 steps down to the village, admiring the azulejos along the way.

After many days and nights spent along the Duoro river, it was time to return to where the journey first began, and discover the vibrant city of Porto.

Needless to say, it was love at first sight. I couldn’t wait to become better acquainted with Porto’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From views of Porto from above, where a Viking guide educated us on the history of the city, to the São Bento train station where 20,000 azulejo tiles tell many a story, to the Ribeira neighborhood for a dose of shopping. We eagerly took it all in, returning to our Viking cabin where we could enjoy Porto city views by night.

After two days in Porto, our wondrous Viking cruise had come to an end and we prepared to head south, this time traveling by land. Stay tuned for part two of our adventures in Portugal…

Weekend in Valencia

June 14, 2017

This year, to celebrate our 6th wedding anniversary we flew to Valencia. I hadn’t been since the student days and was curious to rediscover this city in Spain’s Costa Blanca. Especially with my adventurous Italian. We arrived on a Saturday and settled in to boutique hotel Vincci Mercat in the historic center. So how did we choose to spend 48 hours in this diverse city? By exploring and eating of course. It’s not everyday you’re in the land of paella… In addition to our favorite authentic Spanish dining spots, here’s my guide to this eclectic port city.

EAT LOCAL: For the best tapas head straight to Casa Montaña. Established in 1836, this local legend is both a tapas bar and a restaurant. We were lucky to find a table at the more casual bar, and loved every bite of of our seafood, meat and vegetable plates. If you’re looking for top paella, you’ll find it at La Riuà in the historic center or Casa Carmela on the beach. The latter is an institution and reservations are a must. Keep in mind paella is eaten at lunch and takes around 30 minutes to prepare. Well worth the wait!

EAT GOURMET: For our anniversary dinner we discovered Navarro, a real gem. This family run restaurant in the historic center dating from 1951, serves creative cuisine with all ingredients sourced from local markets. Whether it’s lobster paella or seafood salad with cucumber gelato, you will not be disappointed. One of the lovely sisters Guillermina, will make sure of that! Don’t forget to try their sangria, the best I’ve tasted.

SHOPPING: If you’re looking for specialties in the form of cheese and meat, head straight to the Mercado Central. Over 8,000 square meters including a separate section for fish, you’ll find almost 300 vendors selling all local produce. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop or taste, walking around this market is an experience!

EAT SWEETS: A specialty of Valencia is a drink called horchata. This sweet milky drink is made from pressed chufas (tiger nuts). While drinking it you dip large finger-shaped pastries called fartóns, and enjoy! Horchatería de Santa Catalina is the best and most charming spot in town.

VISIT: Undoubtedly the most impressive place to visit is Santiago Calatrava’s City of Arts and Sciences. This entertainment-based cultural and architectural center merits an entire day, or weekend if you can spare it. You really do feel as though you’ve entered another world.

BEACH IT: What makes Valencia such a desirable city for both locals and tourists is its beach life. Only thirty minutes via bus from the historic center you’ll find yourself lounging on the beach. After a dip in the warm water, find a shady spot and enjoy a siesta, you’ll probably need it!

In other news, I’m honored to be nominated as best expat blog! Please take a moment to vote here. Merci!

colors of Andalucia

February 23, 2015

During our recent trip to Andalucia, I became enchanted with the tilework of the Alcázar of Seville. These press-moulded tiles inherited the Islamic love for geometry while taking on figurative compositions inspired by fabrics during the Gothic and Renaissance periods. I was inspired by the colors and shapes and sought to create a modern version in bag form.

The range of motifs produced in Seville was varied, and their use in architecture diverse.

As soon as we returned to Paris I set to work on a new Andalucia handbag collection…

Adventures in Andalucia : Tarifa + Cádiz

February 2, 2015

Our first stop was Setenil de las Bodegas, a small town once famous for it’s vineyards and unique in it’s position. While most of the pueblos blancos were built on protective bluffs, Setenil grew out of caves dwellings in the cliffs above the rio Trejo, north-west of Ronda.

For lunch we drove up to Zahara de la Sierra, a charming village nestled in the mountains.

Once a moorish outpost, Zahara’s Arab and Christian history is evident in it’s architecture.

Our next destination was Tarifa on the southernmost coast of Spain, the Costa de la Luz. We were tempted to board the ferry to Morocco, but saved that for another adventure.

This became home for a few days, as we explored the coast by foot, and on horseback.

Not wanting the pueblos blancos tour to end, we discovered Vejer de la Frontera. This quickly became my favorite of the villages with it’s unassuming charm and maze of streets.

Our last stop was one of the oldest cities in western Europe, Cádiz. We became happily lost in the myriad of historic sights, the uplifting sounds of flamenco, and the local tapas.

Beneath an Andalucian sunset, we ended one year and began another. In love & gratitude.

Adventures in Andalucia : Córdoba + Ronda

January 20, 2015

Knowing little about Córdoba other than it’s ancient charm, that’s where we decided to spend Christmas. Tucked away in a cozy and chic apartment in the historic center, we immediately felt at home. The city lay calm beneath the early winter sun.

We lost ourselves within the maze of streets, once the capital of the Arabic caliphate.

Christmas was spent at la Mezquita, a cathedral within a mosque, followed by a hammam.

This quiet city grew on us in it’s unimposing way, the perfect setting before heading south.

One last view of the Roman bridge and we bid farewell to Córdoba. Next stop Ronda.

I had no idea what to expect in Ronda, but knew it was the favorite stop of many.

Ronda’s New Bridge was impressive, towering 120 metres (390 ft) above the canyon floor.

So this is what makes Ronda so spectacular! Time now to head to the Pueblos Blancos…

Adventures in Andalucia : Seville

January 6, 2015

This year we decided to embark on an adventure in celebration of one year ending and another beginning. Where better than beneath the Spanish sun? Our journey began in Seville. Home became Hotel Casa 1800, a historic palace-house turned boutique hotel, located in the heart of the Santa Cruz barrio. The views of our new city were breathtaking!
Neighboring our hotel sat the Cathedral de Seville, the largest Gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world. Within this noble space Christopher Columbus was laid to rest.The views from the Giralda, the bell tower originally built as a minaret, were incredible!

Our most memorable day was spent at the Alcázar of Seville. Once a Moorish fort, this palace, known to be the most beautiful in Spain, is the oldest still in use in Europe.

Walking through it’s many chambers and courtyards, we were well impressed. I became enamored with the Muslim architecture and colorful tile mosaics. (New bag collection?) The Alcazar’s gardens were uniquely magical. We spent hours walking their paths beneath the Spanish sun, hidden within a palatial world, walled in the center of a charming city. Our wanderings took us to the Plaza de España, located in the Parque de María Luisa and built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, now mainly government buildings.

Much of the reason I love to travel, is to try the regional specialities. For dinner and lunch, we opted for tapas, and many conversations centered around food. Where were our favorite spots? Here is a list of our top three tapas restaurants in Seville. And we tried many! In no particular order, La Brunilda, El Pasaje & Vineria San Telmo. Buen provecho!Soon it was time to leave Seville for Córdoba. Adventures in Andalucia continue…

eating adventures

May 21, 2014

During my around the world travels I’ve experienced many eating adventures, from street food in Vietnam to yak in Tibet. And let’s not forget bone marrow in China and lardo in Italy. (Delicious!) But I have to admit, the most fun I’ve ever had eating was in San Sebastián. This foodie mecca is home to two of the best restaurants in the world, but what we were after were the pinxtos, the Basque version of tapas. The old quarter is filled with pinxtos bars, dozens lining every street, all attempting to entice you with an array of these taste bites lining the counters.

On our first night we followed our feelings as my Italian would say, or was it our eyes and mouths. And with each bar a glass of rioja or local cider. In less than 24 hours I was hooked!

Day two we did a little research and discovered that our feelings, and palates, had led us well. The eating adventures continued as we were determined to try as many pinxtos bars as possible.

By day three, we had eaten at nearly a dozen pinxtos bars, drank many a glass of local wine, over-indulged in calamari and octopus and I even convinced my Italian to try pigs ears. It being our last day, we decided to return to our favorite bars. For those planning a trip to San Sebastián (which I highly recommend for anyone who loves to eat) here is the list of pinxtos bars that will keep us coming back. I’m already looking forward to the next trip!

Bar Zeruko : most innovative and experimental of the pinxtos bars

Atari Gastroteka : the gastronomic version of pinxtos

Borda Berri + La Cuchara de San Telmo : pinxtos made fresh to order (both run by same owner)

Bar Sport : don’t let the name of lack of ambiance fool you!

La Viña : home to the best cheesecake in the world!

The only rule to remember when pinxtos bar-hopping, the more napkins on the floor, the better!

a work of art

May 14, 2014

My ideal holiday includes good art and gourmet food. Simple, no? When we decided to embark on adventures in the Basque Country, I knew there would be plenty of both. Our first stop on this whirlwind weekend away was Bilbao, which means the Guggenheim. I had dreamed of visiting this Frank Gehry masterpiece since it’s inauguration in 1997. Finally, it was time.

I was in awe as we reached the museum, it’s scale-like facade illuminated beneath a cloudy sky.

Every angle of the grand edifice uniquely reflecting the light.

Anish Kapoor’s impressive Tall Tree & The Eye standing tall, and observing keenly.

Jeff Koons’ Tulips filled the outdoor space with color.

Throughout the day, as the light changed, so too did the reflections.

One of the most interesting pieces was Louise Bourgeois’ Maman, a larger than life spider.

What made me the happiest was Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time, a permanent installation of eight sculptures by this artist whose work I have admired for years. What luck to find him in Bilbao!

Ernesto Neto, a Brazilian artist, was new to me. I enjoyed experiencing his work, quite literally.

Yoko Ono too, was a featured artist, along with her wishing tree. Yes, we made a few wishes!

We spent most of the day within and around this museum, itself a work of art. Unforgettable.

But it was now time for San Sebastián, or Donostia to the locals. The beach and pinxtos awaited…

Barca by night

January 13, 2012

Walking around Barcelona during the day is an experience in architecture, namely Gaudí, but by night the city takes on quite a different persona, particularly in the neighborhoods we chose to explore, El Born and Barrio Gotico. Bars and shops would close in the night (as well as much of the early afternoon) and the streets were filled with metal doors often advertising what lies on the other side. It felt as though we were walking through an outdoor gallery only visible to the night crawlers.

Just the right mix of shabby and chic.

Would I buy fruits and vegetables here?

I can only imagine what’s for sale behind these doors…

Pasta anyone?

My adventurous side is intrigued.

Next time I will return during open hours to discover the truth behind these doors.

New Year with Gaudí

January 7, 2012

Following a memorable traditional family Christmas spent on the Italian Riviera between Monterosso and Levanto, it was time for a new adventure. I had last been to Spain many university years ago and was eager to become reacquainted with Barcelona. Almost immediately we were greeted by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, considered by some a genius and by others a lunatic. Perhaps a mix of the two? For those 6 days we experienced Love in the City of Gaudí.