This year I finally made it to Strasbourg for a glimpse at this city that really knows how to dress up for the holidays. A stroll through Strasbourg’s Christmas markets (open from November 26th to December 26th) invites into the holiday spirit of the city. The oldest in France and one of the first in Europe, these markets date back to 1570. With over 300 merchants spread throughout the city center, stalls line the famous Strasbourg Cathedral where chiming bells mingle with Christmas tunes. The soundtrack alone sets a holiday mood.
Each of the thirteen markets – scattered along the river and filling city squares – reveals its own charm, with limitless arrays of gifts and goodies. Along with festive decorations that bring a touch of Strasbourg home, discover artisanal pottery and locally crafted jewelry, handmade toys and knitwear for children, and even scented candles and beauty products.
Whether simply inhaling the sights and sounds of Christmas in the Alsace or shopping for stocking stuffers, take a petite pause to taste all the delicacies that Strasbourg is best known for. Tarte flambée, anyone?
Having only visited Saint-Tropez off-season during my year-long travels, I was eager to discover this scenic coastal town on the French Riviera before it shut down for the winter. I became further intrigued after writing a story about it for Fodor’s Travel, detailing exactly how Saint-Tropez became the hotspot it is today. This past September, we packed our bags, hopped on the train, and headed south.
Our first stop was a room with a view overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez at Château de La Messardière. I share more about this dream property, here.
After lounging by the pool and indulging in the landscape’s natural beauty, with a stop at Château de LaMessardière’s Jardin Tropézina beach club, we headed back down the hill. Next stop, the town of Saint-Tropez.
To dive into the history of Saint-Tropez, we stayed at Hotel Byblos dating back to 1967. Its nightclub Les Caves du Roy was the place to be. Notable figures including Grace Kelly, Prince Charles, Romy Schneider, Lauren Bacall, Paloma Picasso, Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Leonardo DiCaprio and Mick Jagger have passed through the doors. Little has changed in recent years at this timeless hotel that even includes a Missoni suite.
Afternoons were spend wandering the historic town of Saint-Tropez, lost in the maze of streets while restaurants and galleries awaited evening patrons.
In need of a change of scenery from our Haut Marais neighborhood, we decided to end the year and begin a new one, in southern Portugal. Given the many travel restrictions, this remained one of the safest destinations. And our last trip to Portugal, from cruising down the Duoro to road tripping in the Algarve, left us eager for more.
After a dose of sun and sea at Praia do Meco en route from Lisbon, we settled into our home in Zamujeira do Mar in the Alentejo region. With barely any tourists and very few locals, we explored the rugged coastline.
For an authentic lunch with the locals, we stopped at the neighboring village of Porto Covo followed by a visit to Vila Nova de Milfontes. The latter, filled with charm, quickly became a favorite in the Alentejo region.
Always eager for a road trip, we drove over two hours to the medieval town of Mértola close to the Spanish border. Deserted, this once Islamic open-air museum made for a perfect lunch stop in between rain showers.
Having spent a few scenic nights watching the sunset from our home in Zamujeira do Mar, it was time to continue south to the Algarve. But first, a quick stop at Praia de Odeceixe followed by an eclectic seafood lunch at O Sargo in Praia de Monte Clérigo. Will travel for food!
Our next home, and where we would celebrate the New Year, was the coastal town of Lagos with its rugged cliffs.
Each beach in Lagos looked more wild and dramatic than the last. We hiked our way along the coast, in awe.
The sun-filled week spent in Portugal, from the less touristic Alentejo region to the popular Algarve, filled us both with renewed strength and a positive outlook on the new year, as tough as the months ahead may be.
Santorini is an island close to my heart. It was here on the caldera in the alluring village of Oia where my Italian proposed and where we began our Greek island-hopping honeymoon almost ten years ago. This visit found us happily secluded in the more intimate cliffside village of Imerovigli.
Home became the heavenly boutique cave hotel Iconic Santorini. Our room on the edge of the cliff looked out over the azure waters of the Aegean far below. The setting of a dream!
We quickly settled into our luxurious room with a view, sinking into our private jacuzzi followed by a holistic massage at the hotel spa. After all, holistic comes from the Greek word ‘holos’ meaning whole.
Our first idyllic day at Iconic Santorini ended at their Pergola Restaurant, dining on gourmet Greek dishes.
It was difficult to leave our newfound utopia to explore the rest of the island. With many fewer people than in Oia and neighboring Fira, Imerovigli proved the perfect village in which to avoid the crowds, even though this year was quieter than most. Having already visited much of Santorini on previous visits, we decided to enjoy the views, and the pool, instead.
Our sojourn at Iconic Santorini confirmed our deep affection for this uniquely mystical island, undoubtedly one of the most romantic destinations in the world.
Following a walk to the village of Fira just one kilometer from Imerovigli, it was time to leave Santorini, knowing that we would return. We always do.
My first trip to Amorgos, the setting of the famed film The Big Blue (Le GrandBleu as it’s known in France), was during my very first journey to the Greek Islands ten years ago. Those who have been reading this blog from the beginning will remember that upon meeting my Italian, he promised me Greece. What he didn’t promise, and for what I’m most grateful, was that we would return again and again, each visit an intoxicating experience of a shared passion for Greece. Those who share this passion, know well the feeling.
While during our first visit to Amorgos we explored much of the island, there’s always more to discover. Opting to stay near the port of Aegiali, our first swim was at neighboring Levrossos beach, a quick boat ride away.
Once we acquired a set of wheels, rocky Mouros beach, only frequented by a select few, became paradise found.
Always eager to explore, we drove up to the Chora, one of the most picturesque villages of the Cyclades.
The seasonal Meltemi winds at full speed during our early evening in the Chora, we mingled with the locals and few tourists on the island, reminded of why late August and September are our favorite months to visit.
Another stellar address from the same friend, who we met with during both visits to Amorgos (leave it to the universe!), was hilltop restaurant Kamára above the small village of Potamos. From here we viewed the most spectacular sunset.
The setting for our very own Le Grande Bleu became Nikouria beach. The small uninhabited island of Nikouria boasting crystal clear waters as far as the eye could see was reachable only via boat from Agios Pavlos.
Before leaving Amorgos, we stopped at Katapola, the island’s other port where we feasted on freshly caught fish and local specialties. Maybe we’ll stay here next time, we thought. And yes, there definitely will be a next time. But now our sights were set on Santorini.
Every trip to Greece includes at least one new island discovery. This time we were eager to explore one of the most secluded of the Greek Islands, Astypalea. This would become my 15th Greek island and my Italian’s 20th, but who’s counting. An 8-hour ferry ride from Athen’s Port of Piraeus, this butterfly-shaped island sits in the Dodecanese but equally shares the characteristic charm of the Cyclades.
From the moment we arrived and made our way to the Chora, I was smitten with the island’s unaffected beauty.
Those equally familiar with the Greek islands know that each possesses a unique feeling and energy. The more acquainted we became with Asypalea, the more we both became enchanted with its laid back elegance.
The Chora in Astypalea revealed a series of tangled streets leading to hilltop bars and restaurants. Some of our favorites for local Greek food included Kouklas and Ageri in the Chora, Akrogiali near the port, and Almyra in Maltazena, where the fish was some of the freshest we tasted.
From the very top of Astypalea’s Chora sit the remains of a Venetian castle boasting majestic views of the sea.
Part of the adventure when arriving at a new island is deciding where to stay. With the vast number of hotels and apartments to rent, options are plentiful. Just above the port we first settled into the charming family-run Belvedere Studios, followed by secluded boutique hotel Studios Kilindra high up in the Chora where every morning breakfast was accompanied by roosters crowing.
Another unique feature of each Greek island is its beaches. Astypalea boasts some of the most crystal clear waters we’ve even swam in. Our first beach adventure was to the uninhabited island of Konoupia, which we reached via sail boat.
It was hill-lined Vatses, with its trendy taverna, no WiFi connection, and only a dozen thatched umbrellas, that became our favored Greek beach paradise.
The wildest and most difficult beach to reach, as the road was barely paved and proved a very bumpy ride, was Kaminakia, a reward upon arrival. Another treat was dining on family cooking at the single taverna.
Whenever we travel in Greece, I always take time to explore the artisanal side of each island and discover the local designers. I was thrilled to find beautiful boutique Art in Pelago, whose selection of jewelry, crafts and sleeping cats was one-of-a-kind.
While we could have easily spent another week dining in the inviting restaurants, mingling with the adopted locals and driving from one wild beach to another, it was time to return to island hopping.
I’ve never felt more grateful to arrive in Athens where we recently began our Greek island-hopping adventures. We chose late August knowing there would be fewer people around, both in Athens and in the islands. Plus, the meltemi (very strong winds) usually calm down by then. Taking care to follow all safety precautions, including wearing masks during the flight and in all public places, we settled into the NEW Hotel in the heart of Plaka.
Owned by world-renowned art collector Dakis Joannou and designed by the award-winning Campana brothers, NEW Hotel boasts not only 360-degree views of Athens (including the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, Syntagma Square, and the Parliament) but it houses an impressive art collection, including works by Jeff Koons, a personal friend of Joannou’s. (Koons also designed his yacht!) Surrounded by an impressive collection of over 2,000 art books on loan at the 7th floor Art Lounge, we feasted on an exceptional meal fusing Greek and international cuisine.
What most appealed to me at this design-savvy 5-star address was that nearly all of the furniture and interior elements were repurposed from the hotel which previously stood in its place. Brilliant concept! Each of the 79 well-outfitted rooms is designed in one of three themes, vintage postcards and “evil eyes” among them.
The dining room where breakfast is served is cleverly composed of recycled furniture and wooden elements.
The evening found us on a walk around the neighborhood of the NEW Hotel where we discovered many charming cafes and a good dose of history. The Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds were both visions to behold as the sun began to set.
Having already visited many of Athen’s sights on a previous Greek island-hopping adventure, including the majestic Acropolis, we favored the culinary side of the city and headed for dinner with friends.
The following afternoon we hopped aboard a ferry for an 8-hour journey to the remote island of Astypalea.
The beauty of France lies not only in its diverse regions but in the charm and character of its diversity. Having explored many of France’s landscapes, from Normandy to the Côte d’Azur to the Basque, historically rich Alsace remained a mystery. Eager to discover this region, we boarded a train direction east. In just over three hours we made our way to the small village of Saint-Hippolyte, the perfect spot from which to immerse ourselves in the intimacy of the Alsace region. I had long dreamt of visiting this region, famous for its half-timbered houses and where Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc are among the notable white wines produced.
We settled into regal Hotel Val Vignes, the former castle of the Dukes of Lorraine turned religious college, now a hotel where retired Marists continue to reside. From our window, we had a bird’s eye view of Saint-Hippolyte, along with the bicycles that would take us on our journey.
Following a decadent dinner at Val Vignes during which we tasted local wines and produce, we fell asleep to the sounds of silence. The following morning we took to the winding vine-filled paths leading to picture-perfect villages. While the legendary Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometers long, we only planned to bike a fraction of it.
Our first stop was a short 3.4 kilometers away to Bergheim, a fortified town that quickly won both our hearts.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent weaving our way along the bike paths, occasionally stopping to taste the nearly ripe harvest. We ended the bike tour in Ribeauvillé for a proper tasting of Alsatian wines.
The following day we ambitiously biked 20 kilometers along the wine route to Kaysersburg, well known for its authentic character and charm. We were completely smitten and spent the afternoon becoming acquainted with the town’s well-preserved 15th-century towers, bridge, and ramparts.
Being in no rush to return home to Saint-Hippolyte, we stopped at the gem that is Kientzheim, vowing to return.
We took the long road back to Saint-Hippolyte, Hotel Val Vignes standing tall beyond the stretch of vineyards. This weekend sejour was dedicated to the villages of Alsace. Our next visit to the region will include the medieval Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg in the Vosges mountains just west of Sélestat. We’ll also make a stop at La Montagne des Singes or Monkey Mountain, home to over 200 Barbary macaques roaming free in 60 acres of forest. Next time, we’ll plan to drive.
Following our love affair with the vibrant flower-filled villages, we made our way to Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region. Formally the seat of the European Parliament, we quickly noticed how, much like the entire region, the city’s architecture perfectly blended German and French influences. I was left in awe!
With a stop to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg and a walk around the city followed by a heavenly meal of tarte flambée known locally as Flammekueche, we hopped aboard a train back to Paris, fully satiated with Alsatian memories.
For those of you based in Europe, or for anyone planning a visit to France as soon as borders open once again, I’m sharing a few of my favorite French destinations. Aside from Nice and the French Riviera, each of these cities or towns is a 2-3 hour express train ride from Paris. Included are tips on where to stay and dine as well as cultural suggestions. Bon Voyage!
A top destination in Provence is the city of Avignon. I enjoyed my visit there so much that I introduced my mom to this Provençal gem last year. We stayed at the regal hotel La Mirande neighboring the Pope’s Palace. I also suggest renting a car and exploring the stunning landscapes of the Luberon. Hotel recommendations include the luxurious Coquillade Village and 5-star family-run Baumaniere. For a dose of high-class R&R, book a stay at hotel Saint-Remy in the heart of dreamy Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
If you don’t mind a long train ride (just under 6 hours direct), head straight to Nice on the Côte d’Azur. This dynamic city where life takes on a slower pace will charm you with its vivid colors and local cuisine. While you’re here, make sure to visit Cannes, Antibes and Èze, each one uniquely captivating. For fragrance and art lovers, Grasse and Mougins will win your hearts.
Often referred to as a ‘mini Paris’, the elegant city of Bordeaux is in a class of its own. From here you can head to Arcachon and Cap Ferret for a more remote destination, or join the surfers for sunset in Biarritz.
For a taste of island life where fresh oysters are always on the menu, head to Île de Ré just west of La Rochelle. The best way to discover this picture-perfect maze of villages is by bike.
A town that I can’t seem to speak highly enough of is Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy. One of the best ways to explore this wine region is by bike. The capital of the region, Dijon also merits a visit.
Heading north to Normandy, the charm of Honfleur is undeniable. Follow the paths of Impressionist masters Gustave Courbet, Eugene Boudin and Claude Monet, and stop at Étretat for a cliffside spectacle. For a real taste of Normandy, head to Cherbourg and become lost in the surrounding villages. A more sobering experience is taking a walk along the D-Day beaches.
There’s much to explore in Brittany, but one city I highly recommend visiting is Saint-Malo. From here it’s just a quick drive or bus ride to one of France’s treasures, the pre-Romanesque church of Mont Saint-Michel. Stay overnight for a sunset you’ll not soon forget.
If castles thrill you as they do me, you’re in for a real treat in the Loire Valley. A lovely base from which to explore the region is the hillside city of Blois. From there you can drive or bike (25 kilometers) to the Châteaux de Chambord. Another picture-perfect setting is the town of Amboise, home to the Château d’Amboise. Here too sits Leonardo da Vinci’s last home, the Château du Clos Lucé. One of the most regal castles not to miss is the 16th-century masterpiece, the Château de Chenonceau.
Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.
The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.
We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.
Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.
The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.
Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.
Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.
The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.
Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.
Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.
Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.
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Join a historian at Context Travel for Context Conversations, inviting guests into the real life of the people, history, and culture of the world’s greatest cities. Online live learning seminars include ‘The Colosseum and Roman Forum in the Time of the Emperors’ and ‘Tate Modern: What is Art?’ Each live lecture via zoom is 40€.
In Take Walks Tours from Home, join Archaeologist & TV Host Darius Arya as he presents ‘Ancient Rome for All Ages’. This three-part series highlights the foundational myths to the rise of the emperors to Rome’s decline. Other Tours from Home include ‘NYC Met Museum Tour With a Twist’, ‘Journey into St. Mark’s Basilica, the Venetian Gem’ and ‘Descend into the Darkness of Paris’ Catacombs’. Each hour-long tour costs 9€-10€.
Meanwhile, a leader in museum treasure hunts in Paris and London, THATMuse is helping families Play With Art at Home by offering free portrait party kits to help kids learn about art. This skillfully crafted educational kit includes Michelangelo connect-the-dots, French Neo-Classical perspective exercises from David’s Oath of Horatii, and a deciphering a da Vinci exercise. Join the THATMuse blog to keep up to date with all the artful fun!
The first time I visited Madrid was many years ago during the university years. I decided it was time to return to the Spanish capital. On this sojourn, rather than solely play tourist, I wanted to discover the many eclectic neighborhoods and the local food scene.
SLEEP: Our journey began at Bless Hotel Madrid in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. This design-savvy boutique hotel recently celebrated its first birthday. From this location nearby to El Retiro Park we could explore much of Madrid by foot or hop on a metro. Here too we dined at one of the culinary capital’s most gourmet addresses, Michelin-starred chef Martín Berasateguis restaurant, Etxeko. Meaning “at home” in Basque, the tasting menu was a heavenly gastronomic experience from both land and sea.
EAT: Fifteen minutes away by foot we explored the colorful Chueca neighborhood, quick to become a favorite district. San Antón Market, a three three-floor food hall offers dozens of dining options, both Spanish and international, along with a rooftop bar. Modern tapas bar Baco y Beto proved a favorite dinner spot. Closer to the hotel, La Maruca restaurant was another stellar address.
SHOP (AND EAT): On Sundays, El Rastro flea market takes over the historic La Latina neighborhood. Filled with local artisans and vintage stalls, an entire afternoon can be devoted to treasure hunting. In between shopping, some of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars entice with their simple offerings. Casa Amadeo is famous for their escargot, while Bar Santurce specializes in freshly grilled sardines. A more gourmet tapas experience was enjoyed at restaurant Juana La Loca.
VISIT: Our tour of Madrid’s most famous sights took us from Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square reconstructed in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva and unchanged since, to the Royal Palace, home to centuries-old collections of paintings, furniture, and armor. Nearby landmark Teatro Real of Madrid was once a leading theater in Europe. Next time we’ll book tickets to the opera.
WATCH: In the country where flamenco originated, we set our sights on a lively street performance in an inviting city square. For a more authentic experience, Corral de la Morería dating back to 1956 is the oldest locale in Madrid. Another notable address is Torres Bermejas.
With only a few days to bask in the culture of Madrid, there’s much more left to see and to taste. We’ll be back!
The beginning of the new year, and the start of a new decade, found us in Palermo. This was our third trip to Sicily, each one leaving us more enchanted with this Italian island. Rich in both history and breathtaking landscapes, not to mention the food, Sicily is easy to fall in love with. Before heading to the capital city, we stopped for lunch in the small town of Mazara del Vallo followed by Sciacca where we settled for a few days.
This fishing port town known for its ceramics proved to be a little gem with a lot of potential. Home was the most charming B&B overlooking the port. Restaurant Stranizze, also a winery, proved a top dining spot.
Close by to Sciacca we visited a limestone cliff that took the appearance of stairs. Of course, we climbed up.
The next stop was nearby to Sicily’s most famous Greek ruins, the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. This awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest archaeological site in the world, includes the remains of seven temples dating back to the 5th-century BC.
It was nearing New Year’s Eve and time to head to our main and final destination, the city of Palermo. While we have explored much of the island from Ortigia to Taormina and Trapani to Cefalù to Ragusa (and back to Ortigia), we had yet to discover Palermo, home to the famous cathedral, an architectural marvel from medieval Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque.
SLEEP: We settled into Eurostars Centrale Palace, a historic palace in the city center, just steps away from Piazza Pretoria and within walking distance to most of Palermo’s attractions. New Year’s Eve dinner was spent at another regal address, the palatial home of Guiseppi Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. 18th-century Butera 28 in the beautiful Kalsa neighborhood also offers apartments for rent.
EAT: With so many fine dining options in Palermo, we chose wisely, and were not disappointed. Included in our top dining experiences is Caponata, helmed by young chef Giuliano Blasi who will leave you impressed by his experimental cuisine whose preparation you can observe via the open kitchen. Another noteworthy address is Osteria Ballarò where you can feast on house specialties or opt for street food including famous panelle, or chickpea fritters. For the most authentic taste of the latter, head to Dainotti at the Capo market.
VISIT: With churches and palaces on nearly every corner in Palermo, there’s a lot of see. Worthy of a visit are Abatellis Palace, featuring the largest collection of Romanesque to Baroque artwork in Sicily, and the imposing Butera Palace. We also spent an afternoon discovering the Baroque-style Church of Saint Catherine, also a living monastery to a group of nuns until 2014. Along with stunning views from the church’s rooftop, head to the ground floor bakery to indulge in original sweet recipes, “I segreti del Chiostro” (The secrets of the cloister). The cannoli is the best I’ve ever tasted! For a cassata, one of the best bakery’s is Pasticceria Costa.
To discover Palermo with an expert guide, contact Elisabetta Gulizzi who gave us an in-depth tour of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, a majestic Baroque church in the midst of the Capo market. With so much more to see, visit, and taste, Palermo hasn’t seen the last of us yet.
I haven’t become this smitten with a city in a long time. As soon as we arrived in Bath, I knew there was something uniquely ethereal about this, the largest city in the county of Somerset, just 12 miles from Bristol. Bath became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 due to its Roman history and famous Roman Baths, which I couldn’t wait to discover. But first, it was time to explore the city and get lost in its historic and hilly maze.
SLEEP: Our home in Bath was at the most quirky luxurious address in town. A Georgian townhouse, No 15 Great Pulteney hotel charmed at every cozy corner, from our well-appointed room to The Sitting Room and Bar 15 where we imbibed on craft cocktails, to The Dispensary, a design haven serving up a decadent seasonal menu. It was here too where one of Bath’s famous Sunday lunches is served, easily becoming an all-day affair. Spa 15 was an experience alone worthy of a stay at No 15 Great Pulteney. My treatment room was covered in curious sock art and the hot tub provided the perfect post-massage bliss.
EAT: The search of a gastropub led us to The Chequers where I happily dined on a hearty plate of fish and chips. For the next feast on this traditional dish, we’ll head straight to The Scallop Shell which has been voted the best in the UK. On Saturday, we headed to the Bath Farmers’ Market set in Green Park Station where local food producers sold freshly baked goods and produce from the Somerset countryside.
DRINK: Tipped off by a local, the nocturnal hours found us at The Dark Horse. This reservation-only cocktail bar is both moody and melodic, with dark wood interiors and a menu of bespoke cocktails to choose from.
We could have easily spent every day exploring this historic city and attempting to learn its many secrets. But there were Roman Baths to discover.
VISIT: Overlooking the Bath Abbey, the Roman Baths are a sight to behold. After being invaded by the Romans in 43AD, this religious spa complex was constructed by 75AD, referred to as Aquae Sulis, “the waters of Sulis”.
People from all over came to bathe in this religious spa and worship at the temple, believing that Goddess Sulis Minerva possessed curative powers. Each wing of this massive complex contained hammams, hot and cold dipping pools and relaxation rooms. Still today the city’s thermal springs rise and the Baths still flow with natural hot water. We even took a sip.
Next door to the bathing complex, the museum includes a gilt bronze head of the Goddess Sulis Minerva and other Roman artefacts.
When it came time to bid farewell to Bath, we made a vow to soon return to this city that captured our hearts.
One of my most beloved parts of France is the Côte d’Azur. This region in the southeast along the Mediterranean coast boasts some of the most charming villages, neighboring the vibrant city of Nice. I recently discovered a few of these hilltop gems in a French Riviera hopping adventure, beginning in Mouans-Sartoux.
I hadn’t previously heard of this old-fashioned village, tucked between Cannes and Grasse and was pleasantly surprised to discover a 16th-century chateau and it’s neighboring modern art museum Espace de l’Art Concret in the former stables. All along the grounds of this castle, unique contemporary art sculptures caught my eye.
The streets of Mouans-Sartoux felt like walking through a living greenhouse, where plants lined the doorways and window sills. Along this walk I discovered gastronomic gem Mon Petit Resto, helmed by stellar chef Franck Cicognola. Next, it was time to head to Grasse.
Fascinated by French fragrances, many of which originate in the town of Grasse, I was eager to discover exactly how these perfumes are created, beginning with their floral compositions. This curiosity led me to the International Perfume Museum Gardens. Inaugurated in 2010, these three hectares of sprawling gardens act as an open-air botanical conservatory. Here I went on a sensory tour of the first plants used to make perfume in Grasse in the sixteenth century, including wild orange, lavender cassia from the mimosa family, myrtle and pistachio mastic. I also discovered that from the seventeenth century, the three major plants used were jasmine, rose and tuberose.
My fragrant journey continued to the heart of Grasse where I met with artisanal perfumer Jessica Buchanan, the creator of 1000 Flowers. Instantly, I fell in love with several of her bespoke fragrances.
The next stop before creating my own custom fragrance at Galimard, one of France’s first perfume houses dating back to 1747, was to the International Perfume Museum.
Founded in 1989, this museum, the only one of its kind in the world, is well situated in Grasse, the birthplace of luxury perfumes. Organized into sections from antiquity to contemporary periods, I discovered the origins of fragrance and how they evolved throughout the years. I even took a fragrant tour of iconic scents.
The next stop in the French Riviera was to hilltop village Mougins, known for its gastronomy and art de vivre.
Mougins is where Pablo Picasso chose to spend the last twelve years of his life and where he died in 1973.
I encountered Picasso’s works, as well as those of Matisse, Chagall, Cézanne, Dalí, and Warhol to name a few, at the Mougins Museum of Classical Art, an awe-inspiring private collection of ancient art from Greece, Egypt and Rome juxtaposed with modern works, numbering over 1,000 pieces in total.
Both from above where I admired tiled rooftops overlooking lush landscapes, to the gallery-filled streets below, Mougins won my heart. I hope to return in June for Les Etoiles de Mougins, an international festival of gastronomy and lifestyle, in tribute to France’s culinary figure Roger Vergé. Until then I’ll happily dine at Le Clos Saint Basile where chef Matthieu concocts seasonal dishes while his sommelier wife Elien selects the wines.
My next stop was to the home of another great artist, this time a writer. Belles Rives hotel opened in 1929, set in the French Riviera town of Juan-les-Pins, once the private villa of F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda.
I even had the good fortune of staying in the room just above where F. Scott and Zelda slept. The views were breathtaking! My custom fragrance which I aptly named Eau d’Azur was ready to be worn as I dressed for dinner at elegant Michelin starred restaurant La Passagère, helmed by Chef Aurélien Véquaud. What a decadent feast, ending with lemon soufflé.
As I sat on the vast terrace overlooking the sea, I thought about the lives of the Fitzgeralds and the wild parties they threw in this exact spot, guests including Rudolph Valentino, Hemingway, Franck Jay Gould, Maurice Chevalier, and Pablo Picasso, and where a green light always shines on the horizon… It was here that F. Scott wrote ‘Tender is the Night’ and gathered inspiration for ‘The Great Gatsby’.
While staying at Belles Rives, I took a walk to the neighboring village of Antibes, famous for its rampart walls. Here Picasso once again took the spotlight at the Picasso Museum, originally the Grimaldi Castle.
Wandering through the colorful alleys of the old town of Antibes, full of cafes and local artisans around every pastel corner, I became even more deeply enamored with this region of France.
Every October we head to the Italian Riviera for a little off-season sea and sun, and sometimes the olive harvest. This time we left Liguria for a taste of Tuscany. The first stop on this whirlwind trip that my Italian so carefully planned was to the medieval town of Campiglia Marittima. While exploring this centuries-old hilltop town along the Etruscan Coast, I felt as though we had entered a deserted movie set. Were we the only actors?
Stopping for espresso in the town square, we skipped the Archaeology Museum and the Mineral Museum set within the 13th century Palazzo Pretorio and headed up to the archaeological ruins.
It was here that traces of pre-medieval settlements were left to discover, including a Romanesque window.
After getting lost in the sleepy streets, we left Campiglia Marittima for a smaller and more remote destination.
We drove along scenic Tuscan roads overlooking the Gulf of Baratti until we approached a gated stone wall. The only Etruscan village by the sea, the undisputably charming Populonia is home to 18 year-round residents.
After a decadent lunch at the best spot in town, family-run Osteria La Torre di Populonia, we skipped the Etruscan Museum and headed up to the castle where 360 degree views awaited us.
While I inhaled the views, my Italian pointed out the distant islands of Elba, Corsica, Capraia and Gorgona.
We bid farewell to Populonia and made one last stop along a cypress-lined road to pick up wine in Bolgheri.
A few weeks ago I returned to Provence for an experience in wellness. This time home was luxury lodging Le Saint-Remy in the heart of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The purpose of this trip, other than discovering this charm-ridden historic village where the sun shines year-round, was to try the five-star hotel’s new detox program. With no coffee or rosé wine on the menu, this might prove a challenge.
After settling into my spacious, well-appointed room with a view of the sunlit terrace, the detox program began.
Following a healthy but decadent lunch, I lounged by the pool, waiting for my consultation with a Professor of Chinese Medicine. What makes the spa at Le Saint Remy so unique is the focus on Tui Na, one of the oldest massage techniques in the world. The focus is not merely on relaxation but on an increase in energy and overall well-being.
Feeling rejuvenated after my Tui Na massage, a meditation and a lesson in Qi Gong, a gentle 3,000-year-old exercise that stretches the body and increases blood circulation, I set out to explore the village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The weekly market also captured my attention.
The streets were lined with pastel colored cafes, boutiques and art galleries, setting a perfect Provençal scene.
Close to the captivating landscapes of the Massif des Alpilles mountain range, an eclectic bike tour was on the agenda. What a scenic and not too strenuous ride along the winding paths! My reward was a stunning view of the village of Les Baux-de-Provence in the distance.
After three days of healthy gourmet dining, daily Tui Na massages, invigorating activities and only a sip of rosé (it’s Provence after all) I returned home filled with vitality. Thankfully, I could continue Tui Na in Paris.
Ten years ago, I bid farewell to the life I had known for over a decade in New York City, to the friends I knew I would hold on to, to the career I had excelled in, and to the city that had taught me so many invaluable lessons. I dove into a new life with a man I had met only months prior but trusted with all my heart. And so began my journey of love in the City of Lights, and this blog. Today I reflect on these past ten years and what I have learned by choosing to live a soul-centered life.
Most importantly, while I’m a full-fledged romantic who grew up believing that love serves as fuel, it’s up to us to find this love within ourselves. I’m forever grateful and appreciative for the adoration of my Italian, but it is self-love that truly fuels me.
This too applies to happiness. As much as I thrive on traveling and discovering new cultures or reveling in those that are close to my heart (ciao Italia!), happiness is not a place, nor is it a person. Happiness is a choice. And sometimes it’s as simple as watching the sunset over Notre Dame, or anywhere for that matter.
When I first moved to Paris I thought much like a New Yorker. How can I achieve success, how can I become something? Given the difficulty in finding work in my field, every day I would come up with a new business plan. It was when I let go of the ego and allowed my soul to soar that I discovered my path. This is how my namesake handbag business came to life and why I became a writer. I still think like a New Yorker, it’s in my composition, after all, but it’s now about becoming in my own eyes, not in those of anyone else.
Another life lesson that I’ve learned through this decade in Paris is that some people are meant to remain in our lives while others quite simply are not. As a Leo with loyalty in my core, I cherish the friendships that have grown with me through the years, both in Paris and around the world, and let go of those that haven’t.
Perhaps one of the most important lessons that I’m still learning is that of acceptance. While I may never understand the way Parisians think, or how and why they behave the way they do, which also applies when immersed in other cultures, the key is to accept them. We are all different, as my Italian often reminds me.
Lastly, this past decade in Paris has strengthened my notion that we must live by our own rules and remain strong in our intentions. Before I left New York to travel the world in 2007, would I ever have believed that years later I’d be living such a blessed life? Yes. Dreams do come true when we believe in them.
Not yet ready to head back to Paris after so many magical days cruising the Rhone River, I reserved the most breathtaking address in Avignon of a last night of luxury. We arrived to hotel La Mirande in the heart of this historic city and immediately fell in love with this palatial address.
Upon opening the curtains in our room, we discovered the most stunning view of the Popes’ Palace. This medieval Gothic fortress and palace was the seat of Western Christianity in the 14th century.
We quickly made ourselves at home in the outdoor patio, led by the hotel’s mascot, a cat named Mirande.
This 5-star hotel revealed even more magnificence within the refurbished quarters of this private home dating back to the 14th century, where cardinals once took residence.
Paying respect to the unique 18th and 19th-century design elements, Hotel La Mirande was brought back to life.
The breakfast room appeared as though from a fairy tale. But it was dinner that transported us to another era.
Little did we know what awaited us at Guest Table, a 4-course dinner prepared by Chef Séverine Sagnet.
Beginning with an apéritif in La Mirande’s wine cellar, we made a toast with guests from around the world.
A communal wooden table for thirteen was set in the family kitchen, a wood-burning stove ready to cook our farm to table meal as we feasted on the first course. Memories were shared and friendships made during this extraordinary dining experience. Next time I plan to dine at their one Michelin star restaurant helmed by Chef Florent Pietravalle, as well as book the cooking class and learn a few culinary tricks.
While staying at La Mirande, we spent the day visiting neighboring Popes’ Palace and legendary Pont d’Avignon.
There was no better place to call home on our last days of such an epic trip from Lyon to the South of France.
How better to discover Provence than via river cruise with Viking? This year for my mom’s birthday, I planned this special trip to a region of France she had not yet visited but often dreamed about. Undoubtedly she would fall in love with the charm of the south during this week-long journey along the Rhône, beginning in Lyon. Not to mention the long, leisurely dinners, terrace views and courses in local culture at every port. Having traveled to Portugal with Viking last winter, I knew she was in for a treat!
Our Viking voyage began in mid-June, perfectly timed for the lavender fields, in bloom only three weeks a year. But first, Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the grandest cultural mecca outside of Paris.
Strolling through Old Lyon, we admired the Renaissance architecture, noted the top restaurants, Lyon being the gastronomic capital of France after all, and took shortcuts through the connecting passages called traboules.
Our Viking guide even took us to the top of Fourvière Hill where the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière stood.
Lyon situated not far from Beaujolais Wine Country, Mom and I decided to indulge in a tasting. We arrived to family-run Château de Nervers, charmed by the restored castle they call home, and sipped an array of wines, favoring a bottle of 2013 Brouilly.
It was time now to set sail, our next stop Vienne, one of the oldest cities in France. Founded by the Romans thanks to Julius Caesar, and once serving as Rome’s major wine port, the city remained rich in Roman monuments. The temple of Augustus & Livia, built around 20-10 BC and dedicated to Emperor Augustus, stood proudly in the old square as if transported directly from Rome.
The following day found us facing the impressive 16th-century Château de Tournon in Tournon-sur-Rhône.
It was here that we truly stepped back into history when we boarded the Tournon Steam Train which carried us on a ride through the scenic landscapes of the Ardeche. The locomotive chugged along the tracks revealing stunning views of the Doux gorges. What a wild ride!
One of the most sleepy towns we encountered along the way was 5th century Viviers. Taking a guided night tour through the cobbled streets and buildings dating back to the Middle Ages proved an awe-inspiring and mystical experience.
The next stop in Provence was the history-laden pastel-hued city of Arles, often called “Little Rome of Gaul”.
Their ancient amphitheater seating as many as 20,000 spectators is still in use for events including bullfights.
Vincent Van Gogh settled in this artist’s haven for a just over a year after leaving Paris. We stopped to admire the cafe famous for his Café Terrace at Night painting from 1888. In a hotel just next door, Picasso was often a guest.
Not far away from Arles sits the hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence. I had already become smitten with it on a previous visit and wanted my mom to experience its unique charm. We also stopped by Carrières de Lumières for the most stunning light show in a former quarry featuring Van Gogh. Magical!
It was now time to inhale the sweet scent of lavender on our full-day trip to these freshly blooming fields.
From the Lavender Museum to a working lavender farm, we learned all about the differences between lavender and lavandin, the many uses of both, and how lavender is harvested to produce essential oil. Our dreams would remain lavender scented for months to come!
Along the route, we stopped at the tiny village of Monieux for lunch at the only restaurant in town. Could this week-long journey have been any more breathtaking? Both mom and I were filled with memories to last a lifetime.
Our last stop was to Avignon where we would stay for another night at a very special address to explore the city.
Forever drawn to the sun and sea, my latest handbag collection takes its inspiration from a recent trip to Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz. This colorful collection crosses the border from the Basque region of France into Spain. Photographed in the Luxembourg Gardens by Catherine O’Hara, here’s a look at the Basque Collection.
It had been a few years since we took a trip to Greece, and as anyone who reads this blog knows, the Greek Islands are one of our favorite destinations in the world! This time we decided to skip the Cyclades and venture to the larger island of Crete, my 15th island and my Italian’s 19th. But who’s counting? With only six days to explore, we took to the road upon arriving to Heraklion, first stop the ancient Minoan village of Knossos.
Beneath a cloudy sky we walked the cobbled paths of what is considered Europe’s oldest city, in complete awe.
Eager to lose ourselves in the blue hues so unique to Greece, we drove two hours to the southern coast until we reached Triopetra Beach. Home became a cozy family-run hotel for anyone seeking to escape the bustle of urban life. Days were spent exploring the region, taking dips in the sea, and dining on the freshest Greek cuisine with a group of yogis and other off-the-beaten-path travelers.
One of our day trips led us to Preveli Beach where we skipped the sun-bathing and headed straight for the palm tree forest. What stunning scenery!
While we could easily have spent several more days in Triopetra, we were eager to explore more of Crete. The next stop was Loutro, reachable by boat (or a very long hike) from Hora Sfakion.
Reminiscent of the Cyclades with white buildings set below rocky mountains rising into the sky, we immediately felt at home. Another remote paradise found.
Before our final destination of Chania, we stopped at one of Crete’s most dramatic beaches. Seitan Limani requires a rather steep hike to reach its crystal clear waters. Needless to say, it was well worth it!
By the time we reached Chania on Crete’s northeastern coast, we were smitten with the island and plotting our return. Boasting a 14th-century Venetian harbor, the city is ridden with charm and history.
We settled into a boutique hotel in the city center and set our sights on the surrounding beauty, our only dilemma being which taverna to dine in.
These adventures in Crete reaffirmed our deep affection for this country, its culture, and its people.
My first visit to Prague many years ago recalled memories of strolling in the picturesque Old Town and crossing imposing Charles Bridge stretching along the Vltava river with a view of the 9th century Prague Castle in the distance. A few weeks ago I returned to Prague to discover a city that has recently taken on a new identity as a gastronomic and cultural capital, thanks in large part to the team behind Manifesto Market.
Located in the heart of the Florenci district, Manifesto Market has turned a former wasteland into the city’s first cashless pop-up market. The brainchild of Martin Barry, a landscape architect from New York who also helms non-profit reSITE, Manifesto has become exactly what Martin envisioned. Effectively, he created “a universe where people come together to share good food and culture and become inspired.” Meeting Martin and his vivacious Czech colleague Radka felt like reconnecting with old friends.
The moment I entered Manifesto Market, the vibrant energy was palpable. A sense of belonging was felt throughout the inviting space, built almost overnight from 27 containers. Music filled the light spring air as families and groups of friends gathered to feast on cuisine from all corners of the globe. I couldn’t wait to taste the over twenty food stands, from gourmet Italian dishes to Mexican, Vietnamese and Japanese street food, not to mention American BBQ and Israeli specialties including my favorite, hummus!
With the goal of trying every cuisine, I dined to my heart’s content over the few days I spent in Prague, impressed by the quality and selection in food and drink, and all at street food prices. By night I sipped on expertly concocted cocktails from one of the three bars and couldn’t leave without trying the local beer brews. Even my sweet tooth was satiated with mini pancakes, a decadent take on Dutch poffertjes, and rolled ice-cream, available even in non-dairy vegan varieties. Manifesto Market is undoubtedly a gastronomic paradise! What’s more, the market is cashless making it all that much more efficient.
Focused on culture, Manifesto Market boasts a book store with a notable selection of reading material for both adults and kids. Among the food stalls there’s also a boutique featuring sustainable design, and a florist. The weekend line-up includes feature films and live music or a superstar DJ.
Today marks one year since the opening of Prague’s Manifesto Florenci, and only a few weeks until the second outpost, Manifesto Smichov opens on July 19th. Even more reason to visit this cultural mecca. Me? I’ll be back!
When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.
We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.
The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.
Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.
As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.
After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.
With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.
Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.
To celebrate ten years since that fortuitous meeting on Prince Street in New York City, my Italian and I chose one of the most stunning settings, the Amalfi Coast. From Naples we rented a car and the adventures began! First stop was lunch at the fishing village of Cetara.
Back on the winding hillside roads, we headed towards Amalfi, destination Hotel Santa Caterina. This is where the dream began, or rather, continued, upon our terrace with a view of this once powerful maritime republic. Could there be a more perfect setting to celebrate our love story?
Barely did I want to leave our hilltop perch, but it was time to explore the town, and the rest of the Amalfi Coast.
From a visit to the 9th-century Amalfi Cathedral that overlooks the town, to Pasticceria Andrea Pansa dating back to 1830 and known for their famous lemon cake, we toured the town. We also perused the paper shops, Amalfi town once the leading manufacturer of handmade paper. How fitting for an anniversary gift!
Our next stop along the coast was to the colorful village of Positano, equally impressive from afar and from within the maze of streets. I could only imagine the hoards of people visiting come summertime.
The next day we braved the even longer and more winding roads to discover Sorrento. What a gem! Set on the Bay of Naples this coastal town just outside of the Amalfi Coast won our hearts.
High above Amalfi town sits Ravello, considered by many the hidden treasure of the Amalfi Coast. With so many stately homes and gardens galore, I could understand why! Following the sun, we ended up at Villa Cimbrone. Dating back to the 11th century AD and restored in the 20th century by Ernest William Beckett, many notable personalities passed through this grand estate, including Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, Henry Moore, T.S. Eliot, and Winston Churchill.
It was the Terrace of Infinity, with its endless sea views, that called to our souls, as it had so many before us.
A twenty-minute walk from Amalfi, we discovered the small and endlessly charming fishing village of Atrani.
Here too we discovered a vast terrace that appeared to float directly into the sea. And I apparently with it…
Walking back to Amalfi following five days of coastal bliss, our hearts were even more full than when we arrived.
A few weeks ago I ventured to Warsaw, I city I had often visited as a child en route to summers in Sanok with family. Having not been to Warsaw in well over a decade, I was eager to discover Poland’s vibrant capital city as an adult. What’s more, the most luxurious hotel in all of Poland, Raffles Europejski Warsaw, had just opened its doors. Where better to stay, just minutes away from the city’s Old Town.
Arriving to Raffles Europejski Warsaw, a short drive from the airport, I was in awe at the level of refinement in this over 160-year-old neo-renaissance palace built by Enrico Marconi, dating back to 1857. Far surpassing its former glory, this lavish hotel has redefined Polish luxury, combining historic elements with modern amenities.
Along with my cousin Dagmara who joined me from Kraków, we settled into Hotel Europejski, from the elegant Europejski Grill where we dined on modern Polish cuisine (including a decadent dessert of burnt butter gelato), to a signature drink at the stylish Long Bar, one of Raffles defining features. We also glanced into the humidor, eyeing the selection of single-malts and Armagnac.
Our spacious suite was fit for a queen, or two in this case. Even the marble bathroom was awe-inspiring. Not to mention the unique and inviting design of each room, making you feel very much at home, especially for an artist’s soul such as my own. Each room features original artwork by 120 Polish artists. With almost 500 works, Hotel Europejski contains one of the largest art collections in Poland. I couldn’t resist taking a tour, akin to a museum. Even the spa boasted a mosaic recovered from the hotel’s earlier days, as well as a menu filled with revitalizing treatments. (I recommend the signature massage using essential oils.)
A fan of all things sweet, we quickly discovered Lourse Warszawa patisserie, once the city’s most famous spot for confections and tea. The cakes looked as good as those in Paris, so of course we had to try a few, including Lourse’s signature chocolate cake. Pure heaven!
Minutes away from the hotel sits Warsaw’s Old Town. We spent an afternoon charmed by this medieval neighborhood reconstructed after World War II, also home to the Royal Castle. One of the most well-known restaurants Polka, served us a savory plate of pierogi. Craving more of this Polish specialty, the following day Dagmara and I dined at Stolica, a top spot for traditional Polish cuisine. Even better for something more refined. Another meal was enjoyed at Warszawa Wschodnia at the helm of rising star chef Mateusz Gessler. Open 24 hours and 7 days a week, it’s set in what’s called the Soho Factory, a more industrial part of Warsaw.
There’s no lack of culture in Warsaw, but this quick trip was more about enjoying the lavish comforts of Raffles Europejski Warsaw and the neighborhood. We did make it to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum for a lesson in classical music. The rest we’ll leave for the next visit.
From Porto we rented a car and hit the road. Our first stop was at the surf town of Nazaré. It’s here where the biggest waves ever surfed can be found, although during our visit the sea could not have been calmer.
Following a heavenly lunch of freshly caught fish at restaurant Taberna da Praia, we continued on to Óbidos. This medieval town just an hour north of Lisbon oozes with charm. As soon as we entered the labyrinth of whitewashed houses trimmed in royal blue and bright yellow, we were smitten. Having arrived just in time for sunset, we walked along the wall surrounding the town and delighted in the scenes that unraveled below.
It was the Moors who fortified Óbidos and inspired the minimalist color palette which fit my design aesthetic perfectly. Needless to say, I couldn’t stop photographing every corner of this town!
Home in Óbidos was at The Literary Man, a boutique hotel boasting 70,000 books, the largest collection of books of any hotel in the world! Following dinner at nearby restaurant Jamon Jamon, we curled up by the fire and dove into a few of these literary treasures.
The following day it was time to leave Óbidos and continue our journey south, but not until we tried their local specialty Ginja, a sweet cherry liquor, perfectly paired with chocolate. Yet another reason to love Óbidos!
We continued the long drive until we reached the Algarve and our home for the next few nights, the small town of Carvoeiro. The views from our B&B were of the limestone cliffs so famous to this region of Portugal. As the sun set we settled into our cozy terrace with a bottle of wine from the Duoro Valley, and took it all in.
Just steps away we discovered hidden gem Praia do Paraiso, also known as Paradise Beach, for good reason.
The next morning we embarked on a journey by foot. I had promised my Italian a hike on this trip, and what better than the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, a total of 18km (10 miles) from our B&B. Did I mention this was not an easy hike? But well worth it for the stunning cliffside views!
Nearly at the end, we stopped for a heavenly (and well deserved lunch) at the only open restaurant we could find, and incidentally one of the best, O Pescador. Soon it would be time to return back along the same path, the cliffs glowing beneath us.
I felt very accomplished as we returned to Carvoeiro and resumed our positions on the terrace as the sun set, wine in hand, ending another memorable day in the sun-drenched Algarve.
It was now time to head to our final destination on these adventures in Portugal. But first, my Italian had a surprise stop up his sleeve, as he often does. We had arrived to Santa Luzia, and much to my pleasure I soon found out this was the “capital of octopus”, their local specialty and my absolute favorite! We had quite a feast at Casa do Polvo, tasting seven different types of octopus dishes. Needless to say, we skipped dinner.
Our last stop, and where we would ring in the new year, was nearby Tavira. This ancient Moorish town is considered the most charming in the Algarve. We settled into Tavira House Hotel and took to exploring the neighborhood.
New Year’s Eve brought with it a live concert, filling the small town with thousands of revelers, and at midnight a show of fireworks lit up the sky. As we had spent the last day of 2018, so we spent the first day of 2019, lounging lazily in the sunshine on one of Tavira’s sandy beaches. My Italian went for a run while I dreamt of our next beach getaway, knowing all too well that a wintry Paris awaited us.
This year for the holidays my Italian and I decided to embark on a new adventure. After becoming enamored with Lisbon while visiting the city two years ago, we vowed to return and explore more of this vibrant country. How better to discover Portugal’s secrets than via a Viking river cruise up and down the Duoro?
The journey began in Lisbon where I was eager to become reacquainted with this dynamic city while discovering more of its treasures.
These included the Belém Tower, built on the Tagus river between 1514 and 1520 under the reign of Manuel I as part of the city’s defense system.
Not far away, our expert guide led us to Jerónimos Monastery, a spectacular 500-year-old masterpiece. This symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery is one of the most visited sights in Lisbon.
The last stop in Lisbon was to The National Azulejo Museum where I learned all about the art of Portuguese tiles. It was the Portuguese that first created mosaics upon their azulejo tiles, as evidenced in these decorative tiles, some dating back to the 15th century. I even had the chance to create my own.
En route to Porto we stopped at the medieval town of Coimbra. Here sits the oldest university in Portugal, and one of the oldest in the world. The University of Coimbra was established in 1290 and is believed to be the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. Walking around this World heritage site, I could see where J.K. Rowling found her inspiration.
It was now time to board our Viking vessel and discover the enchanting Duoro river valley, right from our cabin.
As soon as we left Porto, a magical landscape of vineyards and lush greenery unraveled before our eyes. Sitting aboard the Viking Torgil I became mesmerized by the changing colors as we sailed along the river.
Our first stop along the Duoro was to the majestic Mateus Palace. Built in the early 18th-century, this palace boasts the finest baroque architecture in Portugal. An impressive collection of artifacts and furnishings from around the world fill the interior rooms, including a vast library. Part of the palace is still lived in by the family who own it. The perfectly manicured gardens were modeled after Versailles.
What made this Viking journey even more thrilling was an overnight stop to Salamanca, Spain. I had first visited this historic city as a student and couldn’t wait to explore it again with my Italian in tow.
From the Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1120 to the new Baroque cathedral, both elaborate works of art, to the 13th-century university, Salamanca is filled with architectural riches. Our eyes opened wide as we toured the city with our Viking guide.
I was completely enchanted with the House of Shells as it’s called, now the Public Library of Salamanca. Combining Gothic, Moorish and Italian styles of architecture, this former library constructed in the 15th-century features 400 shells on its exterior facade. Mere decoration or a symbol of love? My theory would be the latter. The views of the cathedral from within this, the oldest library in Europe, were breathtaking!
After touring Salamanca’s university, one of the oldest in the world, it was time to head back to the Viking Torgil just in time to celebrate Christmas in Portugal.
On Christmas Eve we were invited to spend midnight mass at the Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies in Lamego. We were moved by attending mass in this church dedicated to Mary, the Mother of Jesus. For Christmas day we returned to this sacred church, walking the 686 steps down to the village, admiring the azulejos along the way.
After many days and nights spent along the Duoro river, it was time to return to where the journey first began, and discover the vibrant city of Porto.
Needless to say, it was love at first sight. I couldn’t wait to become better acquainted with Porto’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From views of Porto from above, where a Viking guide educated us on the history of the city, to the São Bentotrain station where 20,000 azulejo tiles tell many a story, to the Ribeira neighborhood for a dose of shopping. We eagerly took it all in, returning to our Viking cabin where we could enjoy Porto city views by night.
After two days in Porto, our wondrous Viking cruise had come to an end and we prepared to head south, this time traveling by land. Stay tuned for part two of our adventures in Portugal…
Imagine a city offering plenty of pedestrian streets, stellar restaurants, culture in its many forms and trams as the main mode of transport. And let’s not forget the wine. Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? Welcome to Bordeaux.
Last weekend my Italian and I hopped aboard the train for a two-hour ride from Paris to Bordeaux. We had briefly visited the city en route to Arcachon & Cap Ferret, and I already felt then that it was uniquely special.
Ready to discover what I consider to be the highlights of this cultural mecca, and what has quickly become a favorite French city? If you don’t trust me, you can check in with Bordeaux Tourism.
You’ll be just minutes away from the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, home to both the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux, and where you can book tickets to view one of these impressive performances. On weekends keep an eye out for more intimate classical music concerts starting at only 10€.
EAT: Next door to the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux discoverLe Quatrième Mur, an elegant restaurant with renowned chef Philippe Etchebest at the helm. Both the food and the setting makes for a memorable evening.
Another dining favorite is Cromagnon, open only a year and already one of Bordeaux’s top-rated restaurants. The female chef, originally from Moldova prepares creatively infused combinations including tuna tartar and seared foisgras with a side of almond hummus. I recommend the 7-course tasting menu paired with wine.
Another dining spot that merits a visit is Bordeaux’s newly opened food hall Les Halles de Bacalan. This industrial space features food from all over the globe, including Spanish tapas, a cheese section, a healthy canteen, and of course a truffle stand. The perfect stop before or after a visit to the neighboring Cité du Vin.
VISIT: A trip to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a visit to this exceptional museum and exhibition space dedicated to wine. La Cité du Vin tells many stories both in its innovative design and the permanent exhibition filling over 3,000m2. Prepare to discover the culture and civilizations of wine, ending with a glass of wine and a 360° view of Bordeaux. Make sure to stop at the wine shop on the ground floor where you can find an impressive selection of wines from around the world.
Another museum not to miss is the CAPC musée d’artcontemporain de Bordeaux. This Contemporary Art Museum, once a warehouse, boasts not only a world of artists and exhibitions that will equally intrigue and delight the mind, the rooftop proves a destination in itself. There’s also a restaurant, Café du Musée.
SHOP: Aside from buying wines from the region, there are a few spots that I’d suggest stopping by for a look, a smell, or a taste. The Parfumerie de L’Opéra features its own Bordeaux scent, as well as many other hard to find fragrances. Librairie Mollat is the first independent bookstore in France, and with a sizeable foreign language section, there’s something for every bookworm. La Maison Darricau is a four-generations-old chocolate maker, exclusive to Bordeaux. Their Grain de Sable (hazelnut praline with sea salt) flavor alone is worth the stop!
RELAX: My favorite hammam Les Cent Ciels has just opened in Bordeaux. How better to end a weekend of dining and museum-going than relaxing at a luxurious hammam, complete with body scrub, mud mask and massage?
There’s much more to discover in the elegant and culturally rich Bordeaux, but I’ll leave that until next time.
I’ve always loved London. Just a quick Eurostar ride away, it’s easy to spend a few days in this dynamic city. My most recent trip across the channel inspired me to design a London bag collection since my bags do love to travel. On a recent afternoon I met with photographer Catherine O’Hara at one of my beloved locations in Paris, Palais Royal. I dressed in the latest Koshka Mashka attire – a perfect compliment to Kasia Dietz handbags! Here’s the Kensington tote, waterproof and as always, reversible. Isn’t tartan timelessly elegant and stylish?
Nothing like stopping for a coffee with a little people watching at cafe Le Nemours. The Shoreditch tote is named for this eclectic and artsy London neighborhood.
In the past I had designed an extra-large tote bag, and soon sold out of it. The XL style is back, this time inspired by Notting Hill. This tote too is reversible, revealing a floral side. The perfect weekender!
To thank you for your continuous support, and since today is Small Business Saturday, I’m offering 30% off all Kasia Dietz handbags until November 30th using code: shopsmall. Happy shopping!
On my last visit to Cinque Terre, the inviting October sun inspired a trip along the Italian Riviera. After the olive harvest, of course. There remained a unique hidden gem I had yet to discover, and a few villages to revist. Our journey began via train from Monterosso.
In just over an hour we arrived to one of my favorite and most scenic of Liguria’s seaside villages, Camogli. The beaches were filled with bathers soaking beneath the Mediterranean sun.
From Camogli’s port we hopped aboard a boat to our next destination, a seaside gem I was eager to visit.
Might I add that there’s no better way to travel along the Italian Riviera than by boat. Unless you opt to hike.
I was in awe at the sight of San Fruttuoso. A medieval abbey set on an idyllic cove between Camogli and Portofino. A hidden paradise only reachable via boat or by hiking two hours across the Portofino promontory.
We settled in for a seaside lunch of fresh seafood and pasta at restaurant La Cantina followed by a swim in the tepid sea. I could easily understand why San Fruttuoso captivated anyone who reached its remote shores.
Choosing to travel by boat, we hopped back aboard, destination Portofino. I had first visited this chic port village eleven years ago during my year long travels, just before my love affair with Cinque Terre began.
Our last stop before returning to Monterosso was to neighboring Santa Margherita Ligure for a gelato. My Côte d’Azur clutch fit right in with the kaleidoscope of colors.
In just 45 minutes we were back in Cinque Terre, filled with visions of the picture perfect Italian Riviera, undoubtedly one of the most enchanting coasts in the world.
Childhood summers contained vivid scenes of Kraków, a medieval Polish city which in the years that followed became one of my favorite European destinations. Walking around the expansive market square, called Rynek Glówny to locals, feels much like coming home. Most of all when I have a chance to re-experience the city with my mom, who first introduced me to Kraków, where she lived and studied decades ago.
Walking around the cobbled cafe-lined streets to the sounds of horse’s hooves, I immediately feel transported not only to my youth but to another era. The sight of Starbucks brought me back to the present day. I instead headed to Café Camelot, my favorite haunt from the past.
While you could certainly spend every day strolling around the Old Town, shopping at the Cloth Hall, a Renaissance-era trading outpost, learning about amber at the Amber Museum, admiring 14th-century Gothic church St. Mary’s Basilica, and visiting the regal Wawel Castle, there’s much more to see, do and taste in Kraków. Many of these recommendations I share in my article for Fathom.
On this trip I discovered another noteworthy address, Milkbar Tomasza, where you can taste authentic Polish food cooked just as your babcia, or grandmother, would make it. Some of the best pierogi I’ve eaten!
A scholarly stop that merits a visit is to Jagiellonian University, the oldest university in Poland, and one of the oldest surviving universities in the world. It’s also my mom’s alma mater.
Where to sleep? I opted for historic hotel Pod Różą, a charming medieval haven in the heart of Kraków’s Old Town. What a perfect location! To live like a local, Antique Apartments is the top choice in apartment rentals.
However you decide to experience Kraków, the city is sure to woo you, as it does me time and time again.
Before the official end of summer, also known as the rentrée in France, we decided to head south for a weekend in Provence. Just over three hours by train from Paris to Aix-en-Provence, our adventures began. Our first stop was Moustiers, considered one of the most beautiful villages of France. We quickly understood why.
After a decadent lunch at one of the top eateries in town, we headed to our next destination, the Gorges du Verdon. This river canyon in southeastern France is considered the most remarkable in Europe, breathtaking from both above and below. We traded the car for a kayak and paddled our way through the gorge, surrounded by dramatic cliffs rising into the sky. What a thrill! We turned back just as the white-water rapids began.
From here we got back on the road, accompanied by the most panoramic views all along the Gorge du Verdon.
By early evening we arrived to our home at lavish 5-star resort Terre Blanche, perfectly situated between Provence and the Côte d’Azur. From here we could visit the charming villages of Fayence and Seillans, or even Sainte-Maxime. But once we discovered the bucolic property where golf carts are the primary mode of transport, and days are spent overlooking Provençal landscapes and dining on an array of local cuisine, we had no intention of leaving. At least not until it was time to return to Paris.
Energized and ready to enter a new season, we stopped for dinner at the pastel-hued city of Aix-en-Provence before jumping back on the high-speed train. This adventure had come to an end but many more awaited.
All aboard the wine tram! Our next and last stop was to Franschhoek, a town boasting centuries-old vineyards in South Africa’s Western Cape. It was French Huguenots that settled here after fleeing France when Protestantism was outlawed in 1685. This, the ‘Valley of the Hugeunots’ is full of French charm and Cape Dutch architecture, proving an idyllic weekend escape an hour’s drive from Cape Town. It’s also where you can discover some of South Africa’s best chefs, not to mention the wine.
We arrived just in time for the last wine tram of the day. We hopped-on, ready to experience what Franschhoek is best known for. With several tram lines to choose from and dozens of wineries along the routes, we managed to limit ourselves to three tastings.
Each winery told a unique story. Sometimes we felt as though we were in Provence, and at other moments it was clear that the ethereal beauty could only be South Africa.
By early evening, we were happy to return to the village and explore the many boutiques and art galleries.
Our home in Franschhoek was The Last Word, a utterly charming boutique hotel located in the very heart of the village. We could not have ended this epic trip to South Africa in a more perfect setting. Our last meal was one to remember, the tasting menu at La Petite Colombe, a top address in town.
Both my Italian and I shall dream of South Africa for many days and nights to come. Until the next visit.
Our next stop was 320 kilometers (or a four hour drive) northwest of Johannesburg. Madikwe Game Reserve is located in South Africa’s North West Province, bordering Botswana. We chose this lesser known park for its variety of wildlife and malaria-free location. Even before arriving to our lodge, Visser, our skilled ranger, introduced us to a male lion napping in the late afternoon sun. What a sight! We were now officially ‘on safari’.
Our home became the Motswiri Private Safari Lodge, a five-star luxury lodge that took every care to make us feel like this new routine of heading out at 6 am to look for animal tracks in hopes of catching a glimpse of one of the many wild animals living in Madike, was all part of the fun. From day one, we were hooked!
Within our first 24 hours on safari, we were lucky enough to see the “Big Five” – African lion, African leopard, Cape buffalo, African elephant, and the rhinoceros – named for their difficulty in being hunted (not to mention the five deadliest animals). The regal giraffe and zebra were also quite a sight!
It was the elephants that we became most familiar with. From their bathing habits to nearly being charged by one of the eldest in the group. I still find the African elephant, the largest land animal in the world, to be a gentle creature – at a distance, of course. We were sad to learn of the continuous poaching going on in all parts of Africa, of both the African Elephant for its ivory and the rhinoceros for its horns (which have absolutely no medicinal value). I designed my Kenya bag collection in an effort to raise money in protection of this elephant.
My favorite sightings during our four-day safari were the lions. These gorgeous creatures are fierce yet uniquely beautiful. King of the jungle (and the African bush), after all. It was this moment, catching a couple lazily lounging in the late morning sun with their cubs nearby, that I will remember forever.
I leave you with this breathtaking sunset, enjoyed not only by us but by a sole rhinoceros. Can you spot him?
Next and last stop was to discover a charming “French Corner” of South Africa after a final visit to Cape Town.
Last May, on the occasion of a certain Italian’s birthday, we flew to the Mother City: Cape Town. I had longed to explore South Africa for as long as I can remember, and was elated when he chose this destination as the setting for his celebrations. Maybe I hinted a little… We arrived to Camps Bay unaware of what to expect, planning only to spend a few days at this beach haven before moving on to other adventures. Needless to say, we fell in love with Cape Town and eagerly returned post safari. The latter I will share in the next post. First, allow me to highlight all that we loved about Africa’s southernmost city, beginning with Camps Bay itself.
These white sandy and often stony beaches make for the perfect base from which to explore the city. Filled with tasty eateries, our favorite being Codfather (freshly caught seafood, fish, and sushi), it’s easy to spend a few days basking in the sun followed by a truly remarkable sunset. The rocky Clifton beach is just a stroll away.
The Victoria & Alfred (V&A) Waterfront is a scenic complex of over 450 retail shops and 60 restaurants including the V&A Food Market, boasting sweet and savory tastes from all over the country. Here too you can discover The Watershed, an industrial market featuring over 150 artisans creating artwork, clothing, accessories, etc. The perfect spot to pick up a souvenir. From here too, you can take a boat to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela served 18 of his 27 years imprisoned.
Our next stop was to Cape Town’s most prominent landmark, flat-topped Table Mountain. We took the cable car up, though it would not have been too difficult to walk. As could be imagined, the views were breathtaking! And simply walking along the mountain was an experience. We both could have happily stayed until sunset.
Just 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) south of the center of Cape Town (and easily reachable via Uber – the safest way to travel) sits the affluent suburb of Constantia. We were keen to try some of the local wines famous to the region and chose boutique wine farm Beau Constantia, both for the spectacular views, and the award-winning chef. Sampling the many shared plates of the tasting menu at Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia, we quickly understood why this was one of the best-rated restaurants in Cape Town. Not to mention the wines, which included a glass from neighboring Constantia Glen.
While we don’t usually take bus tours during our travels, we made an exception for the Cape Point and Penguin day tour. From Cape Point with it’s Old Lighthouse (238m above sea level), to walking the length of the rocky promontory to the Cape of Good Hope, it was a day charged with some of the most dramatic natural landscapes imaginable! Well worth the tour which ended with penguins.
Boulders Beach is in the Cape peninsula close to Simon’s Town. Here we met a protected colony of African penguins which settled on Boulders Beach in 1982. Incidentally, this is the only place in the world where you can get so close to penguins. These tuxedo clad creatures are beyond cute, and can put on quite a show with their squeeling, swimming and nesting. We were both smitten!
To visit the dynamic city of Cape Town, we hopped on another bus and enjoyed the sights, always back in time for sunset. In the midst of these adventures, we went on safari. Stay tuned for lions, leopards and rhinos…
I’m very excited to present my latest Kenya inspired handbag collection, designed in collaboration with my friend and photographer Kirsten Alana. During her trip to Kenya, I was deeply moved by unruly poaching of innocent elephants, all for their tusks. As Kirsten mentioned in her #dontletthemdisappear post, Every day in Africa, somewhere on the continent: an elephant loses its life to illegal poaching on an average of every 15 minutes. More than 90 elephants a day lose their lives for the ivory in their tusks.
I decided to take action and do what I could to help these African elephants. Together with Kirsten, we designed a bag collection in the colors and spirit of Kenya. Each bag is named for a region where elephants roam wild. With every purchase from this collection, I’m donating 30% of proceeds to Wildlife Direct and Elephant Trust.
Below are the Amboseli and Sambura bags, all reversible and made in Paris. Sustainable fashion for a cause!
Here is the Tsavo bag along with the Laikipia, both foldable to fit inside their matching purses. Travel savvy!
Welcome to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 along the borders of three regions, Anjou, Touraine and Poitou. Considered the jewel of the Loire region, this is the largest surviving monastery dating from the middle ages. Also a convent, the Abbey welcomed nobles with royal blood for seven centuries. Following the revolution, Napoleon converted Fontevraud into one of France’s most brutal prisons. So it remained until 1963.
One of the first buildings in France to be named a historical monument in 1840, in 2000 the Abbey of Fontevraud was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the Loire Valley. What’s happening in the abbey these days? Let me take you on a little tour…
Set upon 34 acres, there is plenty to explore both inside and outside of this monumental abbey. The feeling while touring the grounds is one of complete tranquility and deep mysticism. Undoubtedly a magical setting.
The church once held up to 400 nuns and is now the resting place of Plantagenet Kings: Henry II and his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, their son, Richard the Lionheart, and Isabelle d’Angoulême, King John’s second wife.
The Renaissance style cloisters were the heart of the monastery, rebuilt in the 16th century. The simple garden of boxwood, grass and flowers is reminiscent of paradise lost, echoing the four rivers in the Garden of Eden.
The Chapter house was where the community gathered to make administative and spiritual decisions. Outside of this room, silence was imposed. The decor, intricate carvings and Renaissance murals of the Passion of Christ by local artist Thomas Pot, signifies the importance of this room.
In addition to the treasure chamber where historical objects are on view from the Abbey’s origins, the nuns’ dormitory hosts contempory art installation “Mort en été” by Claude Lévêque. Enter into a fantastical nightscape, of dreams or nightmares. Or maybe this is a trip on the Loire at sunset…
Art has become an integral part of the abbey. Every year the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud invites artists to take residence, where they can create original works in art, music and film. What an inspirational setting!
In 2014 it became possible to sleep and dine within this majestic setting with the opening of Fontevraud L’Hôtel. Stylishly modern rooms provide the perfect refuge amid this thousand-year-old heritage. Set inside a former priory, dine at the helm of one Michelin star Chef Thibaut Ruggeri at Bocuse d’Or. The restuarant alone makes the abbey worth a visit! Following your meal, take a stroll with only the light of the moon to guide you.
There is much more to highlight at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, including their steps toward sustainability by use of solar energy and vegetable gardens on premises. Digital tools used throughout the tour make the visit interactive and even more memorable. The rest I will leave for you to discover.
Every visit to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny proves a unique experience in what can be considered a floral paradise. My first visit to Monet’s masterpiece was shortly after moving to Paris, my Italian in tow. I couldn’t wait to return, but next time I planned to bring my mom. I knew her artistic soul would find inspiration among the endless blossoms. How better to spend a mother/daughter day than frolicking in the gardens of one of the world’s most revered painters? Plus, Mother’s Day was just around the corner. The perfect gift.
During her recent visit we set off for a guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Visionin the comfort of a luxurious bus, avoiding the hassle of metros, trains and taxis. En route we were presented with information about Claude Monet’s life, exactly how he ended up living in Giverny, his love of flowers and gardening, and the many phases his home underwent following his death. An ideal history lesson while driving through the bucolic French countryside. Upon arrival we were able to skip the line and enjoy more time with Monet.
As soon as we entered the property, my mom’s eyes widened in awe of the hundreds of tulips before us, each section color coordinated and perfectly manicured, just as Monet would have liked. Our tour guide led us along the paths from one garden to another, with many an anecdote to share. Gray skies are not uncommon in Normandy but luckily for us, blue skies prevailed and temperatures were reminiscent of a hot summer day.
Led by our guide, we made our way from Monet’s home and flower garden Clos Normand, to his Japanese inspired water garden, stunning in its own right. Here we discovered the Japanese bridge that appears in many of his paintings, majestic weeping willows and the famous nympheas which continue to bloom throughout the summer. What a setting!
We walked through the gardens, recalling many of Monet’s works hanging in Paris’s Musée de l’Orangerie, vowing soon to return for another look. Meanwhile, what inspired these works blossomed before our eyes, in every hue imaginable. And to think, the gardens had only begun to show off their kaleidoscope of colors! Following tulips come roses, in gardens that continue to reveal their radiant blooms for months to come.
Having been eager to visit Monet’s home and gardens ever since she and my dad first traveled to Paris so many years ago, my mom was thrilled that we took this guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision. And I was thrilled to make one of her travel dreams come true.
With Mother’s Day coming up, take my advice and hop aboard Paris City Vision to Giverny. You’ll thank me!
Marrakech has been on the top of my travel list for as long as I can remember. Even more so after visiting Essaouira a few years ago. There’s something other-worldly about Morocco that appeals to all my senses. The vibrancy of the city was evident from the moment I stepped into the medina, just minutes away from my luxurious home at Riad Farnatchi. From here I wandered until I was happily lost within this world of color.
SHOP: First stop after settling in? Exploring the souk, of course! With hundreds of stalls selling everything from wicker baskets to carpets to house slippers, it’s complete sensory overload. The key is to focus on what captures your interest, and to bargain. After some intense negotiating, I bought a few handmade slippers and tunics for my mom, and had my eye on a Moroccan lamp. Next time!
VISIT: After great anticipation, The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Marrakech opened in October 2017, showcasing dozens of pieces from the designers iconic fashion collections. Discovering the city in 1966, Yves Saint Laurent fell in love with “the colors and light found there, and its art of living” and made it his second home. To compliment the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris which I recently visited, this sister museum reveals more of the life and work of this revered designer, one of my personal favorites.
Just 100 meters away sits the enchanting Jardin Majorelle, a labor of love created over forty years by French painter Jacques Majorelle. A setting where Yves Saint Laurent often found inspiration, “seduced by this oasis where colours used by Matisse were mixed with those of nature,” he and his partner Pierre Bergé purchased the land in the 80’s and set about saving and restoring it. The villa at Jardin Majorelle houses the Berber Museum and a collection of Marjorelle’s paintings. Here too, both Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé are honored.
EAT: For the best in Moroccan cuisine, including sweet and savory tagine, head up to Terrasse des Epices where you can dine with the sun, just above the souk. Nomad is another hotspot nearby. For dinner make a reservation at seductive Le Foundouk, which boasts one of the most stunning rooftops in Marrakech.
I’m already counting the days until my next encounter with the enchanting medieval walled city of Marrakech.
Ever since my first visit to Morocco over two years ago, when my Italian surprised me with a trip to Essaouira, I’ve been longing to return, with Marrakech at the top of the list. This dream became a reality when I discovered luxurious Riad Farnatchi, the ideal home in the heart of the medina. With a friend and fellow writer in tow, we left the chill of late winter in Paris to discover the eternal sunshine of Marrakech.
We arrived to the intimate 10-bedroom RiadFarnatchi by way of the newly modernized airport, a quick 45 minute drive following a 3-hour flight from Paris. The old world charm of the medina just outside the wooden portal, I immediately became enamored with this elegant riad, my first taste of Marrakech.
A breakfast of traditional Moroccan delights including sweet and savory flat bread Rgaïf-Msemen was enjoyed on my private terrace, to a backdrop of chirping birds and a flowing fountain. Complete tranquility found.
My suite itself was larger than most Parisian apartments, with skillfully crafted detail in every doorway and light fixture. I felt as though I had stepped back in time, with no recollection of the present day.
I knew there was an entire city waiting to be discovered, beginning with the souk just steps away, but I could have easily whiled away my days at Riad Farnatchi, both from within the courtyard and high up on the rooftop, taking in the views while calls to prayer sounded in the distance.
Dinner was savored at Riad Farnatchi’s new European-style restaurant Le Trou au Mur, where we dined on the house specialty, mixed mechuoi. This included some of the best cuts of lamb I’ve tasted, roasted in a traditional clay mechuoi oven. I’ll be back to dine on their stunning rooftop during the warmer months.
My days at Riad Farnatchi was spent discovering hidden corners of this charming hotel. I also had the pleasure of experiencing a traditional Moroccan hammam at the Farnatchi Spa. I’ve rarely felt so clean and relaxed!
Stay tuned to discover the many notable sights surrounding Riad Farnatchi in my personal guide to Marrakech.
I first experienced the sensation of Venice as a university student during a quick sojourn en route to Croatia. My second visit was with girlfriends during my around-the-world trip in 2007. But it was this recent trip with my Italian in which I became completely smitten with the city. Where better to spend a weekend celebrating our love story. Almost nine years since that fortuitous day on New York’s Prince Street, we set our hearts on Venice.
SLEEP: Our first stop after getting lost in the maze of canals, was our home on the Grand Canal, Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. This once private palace possessing the air and art of a museum feels like you’ve entered a Venetian fairy tale. All that was missing to set the scene was a grand masquerade ball. Built in the 15th century and bought by the Sagredo family three centuries later, this palace remains in private hands.
The hands on the hotel’s facade however, are an installation by Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, unveiled for the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017. Titled “Support” this piece is meant to bring attention to the threat of global warming, and I hope it will remain in place for years to come. Quinn’s smaller sculptures are on display within the hotel’s grand salons. In the Music Ballroom, numerous frescoes attributed to Gaspare Diziani cover the walls and ceiling. The Sagredo family’s coat of arms can be found decorating the floor.
The long hall, featuring chandeliers in Murano glass and murals along the walls, overlooks the Grand Canal.
Perhaps the most spectacular design element of Ca’ Sagredo is the staircase by architect Andrea Tirali, completed in 1732. He also built the Ponte dei Tre Archi over the Cannaregio canal in Venice in 1688. Two marble cherubs by Francesco Bertos greet guests, while breathtaking frescoes by Pietro Longhi hang upon the wall.
EAT: Our first lunch stop was to Cantina Do Mori, Venice’s oldest cichetti bar, dating back to 1462, and one of Casanova’s favorite haunts. We dined on an array of delicious Venetian appetizers while mingling with the kindest locals. Thanks to their generous insights, our dining plans for the next few days were sorted. Our most decadent dinner was at the helm of chef Agostino Doria of Ostaria Santa Marina. Blending creativity with tradition, he serves perfectly balanced dishes from both land and sea. My octopus risotto was buonissimo! For an equally tasty yet more casual dining experience, Ostaria da Rioba is the place. Trust me! Even more casual still, and where we feasted on cichetti is Al Timon.
DRINK: One spot not to miss is Neo-Baroque cafe dating to 1720, Caffè Florian. Positioned on Piazza San Marco, it’s certainly a tourist attraction, but worthy of a stop for coffee or an aperitivo.
VISIT: A must see while in Venice is Palazzo Ducale, or Doges’ Palace, established in the 9th century. This was the seat of the Republic’s government, bureaucracy and main prisons.
You can easily spend an entire afternoon learning about Venetian history within this regal palace. Among the impressive artwork you’ll discover one of the world’s largest oil paintings. Tintoretti’s “Paradiso” takes over one wall of the Grand Council Hall, a sight to behold, as is the room itself.
Passing through the Bridge of Sighs, named for the sighs prisoners made while being led to captivity, you’ll enter into the newer prisons. To discover hidden secrets, take the Secret Itineraries Tour.
There’s much to see and do in Venice, besides taking a gondola ride, though that’s always an option! Even a week wouldn’t merit enough time to become intimately acquainted with the city’s six sestieri, or neighborhoods. Though in one weekend, we tried! My suggestion, wander without a map in hand and enjoy getting lost. The islands of Murano (famous for glass) and Burano (lots of lace) are only a boat ride away.
SHOP: My favorite spot for artisanal souvenirs is Paolo Olbi’s paper shop. This legendary man (who only speaks Italian) began his craft in as a bookbinder in 1962 and years later began creating beautiful photo albums, frames and agendas. For all things luxury head to the Fondaco dei Tedeschi nearby Rialto bridge, opened in 2017. This majestic building dating back to 1228 was once a trading post for German merchants, a customs house under Napoleon, and a post office under Mussolini. Even better than the shopping? Head up to the rooftop for the best views of the city. Enjoy the dream that is Venice!
Recently I took a trip to Antwerp, a city I had never properly visited. A quick stop for chocolate en route from Holland many years ago doesn’t really count, does it? I hadn’t been back to Belgium since our weekend in Bruges and was curious to discover this city dating back to the Middle Ages that I knew little about. So many gems to share in food and fashion, in addition to the diamonds Antwerp is famous for.
SLEEP : Minutes away from Antwerp’s Central Station, a stunning architectural marvel that some consider the most beautiful train station in the world, sits Hotel Indigo, the ideal refuge in the center of the city.
EAT : Aside from moules-frites (mussels with fries) and waffles, Belgium is not known for its food. I did however, discover a few restaurants worth sharing. Historically a horse stable, De Peerdestal is a charming spot for good meat and fish. For a French meal in grand style with a side of live piano music, head to Bourla. Here I tasted classic chicken fricassee coupled with local Belgian beer, of course. As for the Belgian specialty of chocolate, my favorite shop is Mary, dating back to 1919.
DRINK : Stocking the largest supply of coffee beans in the world, you’ll definitely find a good brew. My favorite, and where they roast their own beans, is Normo. For coffee, cake or a stellar sandwich, head to Cafématic.
DO : Antwerp boasts one of the oldest and most impressive animal parks in the world. Over 5,000 animals of 950 different species, including polar bears and Siberian tigers, are cared for at the Antwerp Zoo. For an art fix, head to 17th-century Rubens House, filled with masterpieces by Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. If music is your passion, book a performance at the Antwerp Concert Hall (Stadt Schouwburg), decorated with statues of the world’s greatest composers and musicians.
SHOP : The Antwerp Six, including Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, put this city on the fashion map in the 1980’s. To pick up wares from these Belgian greats as well as new and established Scandinavian and international designers, head directly to consignment shop Rosier 41. To discover local and artisanal designers, Superet is the spot. A top gift shop carrying unique home accessories and handmade jewelry is Mme Bovary.
EXTRA : One last stop during your visit to Antwerp is design centric Graanmarkt 13, a restaurant, concept shop and apartment, all in one.
Paris, the city of love, undoubtedly one of the most romantic in the world. And who better to enjoy it with than yourself? My first visit to Paris, before my life of love in the city of lights, was as a solo traveler. In a matter of moments, I was smitten! Even after eight years as a Paris local, I still take time to walk around my favorite neighborhoods, those less known to tourists, to sit at cafes and read or watch the Parisian world go by, and to take in the beauty of this enchanting city. Join me for a little walk in the snow, starting at Canal Saint Martin…
Next stop to nearby Place de la République where Marianne stands tall for Liberté, Égalité and Fraternité.
One of the most charming neighborhoods in the right bank is the Haut Marais, filled with treasures galore, one of them being chocolate shop Jacques Genin. His chocolat chaud is heavenly!
Head over to the Marché des Enfants Rouges and pick up a bouquet of the most stunning seasonal blooms.
With plenty of cafés lining the streets, stop by for a moment to read or reflect, with a side of people watching.
Take a walk around the neighborhood and become enchanted with all the nuances that are so typically Parisian, and pop into the Picasso Museum for a date with art.
Follow the cobbled paths until you reach regal square Place des Vosges, once home to the French royalty.
Are you smitten yet? Here’s my video tour through a few of my favorite romantic spots. With love from Paris!
Blog post and video sponsored by Flybe, Europe’s largest independent regional airline.
This past year has been an adventurous one and I feel overwhelming gratitude. Beginning with a new year in Sicily, my Italian and I have explored Miami’s Faena District, discovered Lisbon and Sintra in Portugal, encountered Valencia, Spain, and spent memorable birthday celebrations in Sardinia, Italy, in addition to visits home to the Hamptons and Cinque Terre. For blogging and writing projects I skied in breathtaking Courchevel, explored Lombardia, Italy, and visited Mont-Saint Michel by night, among other trips. And let’s not forget beautiful Budapest! One last trip before a family Christmas beneath the Florida sun was to a château in Brittany. All the while Kasia Dietz handbags journey with me as the brand continues to grow.
A four hour drive from Paris, or much faster via train, we arrived to the city of Rennes. From here we discovered remote and romantic Château du Bois Glaume. This family-run castle was the perfect weekend escape.
Our regal room overlooked the chapel of this charming castle. Immediately we felt at home, and like royalty.
While my Italian went for a run in the late fall foliage, I explored the grounds, camera in hand. That night, dinner for two was served in the elegant dining room, accompanied only by the castle’s cat.
During our stay we learned the history of this château, and how it’s part of a collection of family-run French castles converted into bed-and-breakfasts, each offering no more than five rooms. I immediately became fascinated with Bienvenue au Château and couldn’t wait to discover others. Perhaps château hopping will become a theme for the new year?
Our last visit after stopping for crêpes in the picturesque village of Rochefort-en-Terre, was to Josselin with its stunning medieval castle set upon the river. The perfect last stop before returning to Paris.
As I count my blessings for the year that has passed and prepare to fill 2018 with beautiful memories, may you live your own fairy tale, château optional. Wishing you a happy, healthy and adventure filled new year!
Hungary’s capital city Budapest is often called the Paris of the East. Eager to discover it for myself, I booked a ticket and got ready to explore this beautiful city so rich in history and culture. My travel savvy step-sister joined for the adventure and we planned our short visit strategically. After a festive evening of Christmas markets and mulled wine, our morning was spent crossing from Pest to Buda. The Széchenyi Chain Bridge is the first permanent bridge to connect both sides of the city via the Danube river.
From the end of Chain Bridge we rode the Buda Hill Funicular, in service since 1870 and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. All the way up to Buda Castle Hill we enjoyed stunning views of the city, with plenty of photo ops.
Views of Budapest are even better seen from 100 year old Fishermen’s Bastion. With a fish market nearby, this bastion was built to commemorate the fishermen who protected this part of the city. Each of the seven tent-like turrets symbolizes one of the seven Hungarian tribes that arrived to the Carpathian Basin in 896.
Nearby Neo-Gothic Matthias Church is considered one of the most beautiful churches in Budapest, as well as the most unique in Europe. Built in 1015 and inspired by orientalism, it’s colorful interior is breathtaking!
Back on the Pest side of the city, we stopped by the memorial ‘Shoes on the Danube River’ to pay our respects to the 3,500 people, 800 of them Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen during World War II.
The Hungarian Parliament Building is without a doubt one of the most regal buildings in Budapest, also the third largest Parliament building in the world. We took a tour of the interior as well, worth the visit.
That night we booked a tour of Budapest by night and enjoyed a history lesson as the city lit up before our eyes.
Day two was dedicated to bath houses and spas, beginning with Budapest’s most famous Széchenyi thermal bath. The largest medicinal bath in Europe, its water is supplied by two thermal springs, with temperatures of 74 °C and 77 °C. What an experience, bathing with tourists and locals alike.
Our next stop was to Gellért, an art noveau thermal bath opened in 1918. Another must do in “the city of spas”. Here we soaked in indoor hot springs and I braved a few dips in the cold pool and indulged in the steam room.
Our last visit was to the Harmony Spa at Aria Hotel located in the city center. Where music is the theme throughout the hotel, we relaxed at the hands of skilled masseuses, the perfect ending to a day of wellness.
I couldn’t very well leave Budapest without a visit to the elegant New York Café. Often considered the “most beautiful coffee house in the world”, this is where writers and editors would meet to drink and dine. In 2006 it was restored to its original splendor, offering some of Budapest’s best cakes. Another top address for homemade cakes and chocolate is Gerbeaud, opened in 1858. The perfect spot to pick up a few sweet souvenirs. As for dining, our favorite gourmet restaurant was 10 year old family run Mák Bistro. Michelin star level!
Thank you Budapest, for the many memories of this Paris of the East! Aside from some of the taxi drivers who try to take you for a ride (not just in the literal sense), best to order a taxi online, it was a trip to remember!
I possess a strong sense of smell and simply adore perfume, but only very select scents. For the last few years I’ve been wearing Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel. I wasn’t planning on changing my fragrance until a trip to Courchevel last March. Testing a few samples of a perfume I hadn’t heard of or smelt before, I became completely smitten with the notes of a particular scent, which rarely happens. This is how I discovered Memo.
Little did I know, it was the perfect setting in which to become acquainted with a perfume company started by a couple that met on a ski lift. Clara and John Molloy are both avid travelers, he from Ireland and she from Andalucia, Spain. Together they set off on a journey to create Memo, a collection of scents inspired by their adventures around the world.
Why perfume? Fragrance has the same rite-of-passage dimension as travel, serving as a threshold between the known and the unknown. Smelling, breathing in a scent, is accepting to leave a safety zone in search of new sensations, and tying them to one’s personal experience. Fragrance kindles an excitement similar to that of a journey, a departure. It is about openness and abandonment. As a fellow traveler, I couldn’t agree more.
After writing a book on “noses” in 2006, Clara embarked on a voyage through the olfactory senses and Memo was born in 2007. For the last decade, Memo’s Les Echappées collection has been inspired by journeys from Asia to Africa including Manoa, Hawaii, Marfa, Texas and Granada, Spain. The scent that won me over was Lalibela, inspired by the mystical land of Ethiopia. This unique fragrance, with key notes of rose, patchouli and frankincence now joins me in Paris, Monterosso, The Hamptons, or wherever my adventures take me.
Visiting their flagship store off of rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, I discovered all eighteen luxurious scents, the most recent being Eau de Memo, a commemorative fragrance celebrating the 10th anniversary of Memo Paris. Just as their perfumes are inspired by travel, so too do they travel, now being available all over the world.
The expression that best captures the spirit of Memo is “The journey is the destination”. A perfume after my own heart.
Our last stop on this whirlwind week exploring Sardinia was the medieval town of Bosa, set on the Temo river. Little did I know that we saved the most picturesque for last. The palette of colors stretching before us was reminiscent of a Paul Klee painting, incidentally one of my favorite artists. With this kaleidoscopic view from our hotel room terrace, I was already smitten before even setting foot in the old town.
Mornings and late afternoons were spent lost amidst the maze of colorful streets, each building laden with its own wall of flowers. Streets were lined with recycled tomato cans converted into hand-painted flower pots. The entire town blossomed beneath the mid-summer sun.
I became completely smitten with the attention to color and detail in this vibrant town. Truly a living painting!
Our last morning we walked up to the castle in the heat, seeking shade while admiring the views from above.
My favorite architecture in Bosa was this strip of pastel colored houses lining the river, once tanneries dating back to the 19th century. Now it seems, perfect for loftlike residences.
The colors of Bosa and the feeling of Sardinia would stay with me for a long time. At least until the next visit.
Our next destination was Sardinia’s west coast, called Costa Verde for its lush greenery. After making a few stops to explore the mainland and take several dips in the sea during what was in effect a heatwave, we arrived to our home in the dunes.
Sometimes life is most beautiful at its simplest. While I do love five-star luxury, this was a different type of star setting. We slept in what resembled a cabin with a view of the sea, dining on local cheese, bread and wine beneath a sky filled with stars. And if you looked closely enough you may just find one falling. We did.
In the morning we ran down to the sea for a swim on a completely deserted beach. THIS was paradise defined.
We spent the day on the beach taking shade beneath an umbrella and cooling off in the refreshing sea.
Night fell and with the setting sun we continued on to our last destination, one of Sardinia’s most picturesque.
This year for my birthday at the end of July, a certain Italian planned a week in Sardinia. It would be my first time on this island, and his second. We flew into Cagliari, picked up a rental car, stopped by one of the magical beaches Sardinia is known for, and headed to our first destination, the island of San Pietro.
The only town on this island of 6,500 inhabitants is Carloforte. We settled in at charming hotel Villa Pimpina in the town’s center. Our room boasted a grand terrace with views of the town and the sea.
We were completely charmed by Carloforte’s maze of colorful streets and the warmth of its locals. My Italian even spoke with them in dialect. As it turns out, the Carlofortini are of Genovese descent, having arrived to San Pietro via Tunisia in 1738. With them they brought customs and foods from Genoa including focaccia and pesto. Surrounded by tastes of Liguria, we both felt very much at home!
Our mornings were spent exploring the town and mingling with the locals. Afternoons were spent discovering one of San Pietro’s many beaches. Every evening we enjoyed live music and performances in the main square. So much culture for such a small island! For dinner we feasted on tuna dishes, the island’s specialty. Tuna in more ways than I’ve ever imagined, including tuna lasagna, a fast favorite. The best tuna meals were had at Ristorante Da Andrea Osteria della Tonnara, where we even dined two nights in a row. Another favorite restaurant was Al Tonno Di Corsa.
Three days and many birthday celebrations later, it was time to leave San Pietro and return to the mainland. Next stop adventures in Costa Verde…
