Every trip to Greece includes at least one new island discovery. This time we were eager to explore one of the most secluded of the Greek Islands, Astypalea. This would become my 15th Greek island and my Italian’s 20th, but who’s counting. An 8-hour ferry ride from Athen’s Port of Piraeus, this butterfly-shaped island sits in the Dodecanese but equally shares the characteristic charm of the Cyclades.
From the moment we arrived and made our way to the Chora, I was smitten with the island’s unaffected beauty.
Those equally familiar with the Greek islands know that each possesses a unique feeling and energy. The more acquainted we became with Asypalea, the more we both became enchanted with its laid back elegance.
The Chora in Astypalea revealed a series of tangled streets leading to hilltop bars and restaurants. Some of our favorites for local Greek food included Kouklas and Ageri in the Chora, Akrogiali near the port, and Almyra in Maltazena, where the fish was some of the freshest we tasted.
From the very top of Astypalea’s Chora sit the remains of a Venetian castle boasting majestic views of the sea.
Part of the adventure when arriving at a new island is deciding where to stay. With the vast number of hotels and apartments to rent, options are plentiful. Just above the port we first settled into the charming family-run Belvedere Studios, followed by secluded boutique hotel Studios Kilindra high up in the Chora where every morning breakfast was accompanied by roosters crowing.
Another unique feature of each Greek island is its beaches. Astypalea boasts some of the most crystal clear waters we’ve even swam in. Our first beach adventure was to the uninhabited island of Konoupia, which we reached via sail boat.
It was hill-lined Vatses, with its trendy taverna, no WiFi connection, and only a dozen thatched umbrellas, that became our favored Greek beach paradise.
The wildest and most difficult beach to reach, as the road was barely paved and proved a very bumpy ride, was Kaminakia, a reward upon arrival. Another treat was dining on family cooking at the single taverna.
Whenever we travel in Greece, I always take time to explore the artisanal side of each island and discover the local designers. I was thrilled to find beautiful boutique Art in Pelago, whose selection of jewelry, crafts and sleeping cats was one-of-a-kind.
While we could have easily spent another week dining in the inviting restaurants, mingling with the adopted locals and driving from one wild beach to another, it was time to return to island hopping.
