Forever drawn to the sun and sea, my latest handbag collection takes its inspiration from a recent trip to Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz. This colorful collection crosses the border from the Basque region of France into Spain. Photographed in the Luxembourg Gardens by Catherine O’Hara, here’s a look at the Basque Collection.
It had been a few years since we took a trip to Greece, and as anyone who reads this blog knows, the Greek Islands are one of our favorite destinations in the world! This time we decided to skip the Cyclades and venture to the larger island of Crete, my 15th island and my Italian’s 19th. But who’s counting? With only six days to explore, we took to the road upon arriving to Heraklion, first stop the ancient Minoan village of Knossos.
Beneath a cloudy sky we walked the cobbled paths of what is considered Europe’s oldest city, in complete awe.
Eager to lose ourselves in the blue hues so unique to Greece, we drove two hours to the southern coast until we reached Triopetra Beach. Home became a cozy family-run hotel for anyone seeking to escape the bustle of urban life. Days were spent exploring the region, taking dips in the sea, and dining on the freshest Greek cuisine with a group of yogis and other off-the-beaten-path travelers.
One of our day trips led us to Preveli Beach where we skipped the sun-bathing and headed straight for the palm tree forest. What stunning scenery!
While we could easily have spent several more days in Triopetra, we were eager to explore more of Crete. The next stop was Loutro, reachable by boat (or a very long hike) from Hora Sfakion.
Reminiscent of the Cyclades with white buildings set below rocky mountains rising into the sky, we immediately felt at home. Another remote paradise found.
Before our final destination of Chania, we stopped at one of Crete’s most dramatic beaches. Seitan Limani requires a rather steep hike to reach its crystal clear waters. Needless to say, it was well worth it!
By the time we reached Chania on Crete’s northeastern coast, we were smitten with the island and plotting our return. Boasting a 14th-century Venetian harbor, the city is ridden with charm and history.
We settled into a boutique hotel in the city center and set our sights on the surrounding beauty, our only dilemma being which taverna to dine in.
These adventures in Crete reaffirmed our deep affection for this country, its culture, and its people.
This past week I took the train 30 minutes northeast of Paris to visit my friend, photographer Catherine O’Hara, who lives in a château. Yes, you read that correctly. Home is a castle dating back to the 17th century. Ready to join me for a visit of this extraordinary property?
After driving along an impressive tree-lined driveway we entered the gate leading to the château. It was love at first sight. Imagine living at such a stately residence! Catherine and her two adorable dogs do just that.
Catherine, along with Percy and Nora, the royal dogs, took me on a grand tour of the gated 40-acre property.
From the orchards where cherries were ripe for the picking to the gardens where residents are growing their own herbs and vegetables, to the vast woods where logs awaited the winter season.
The inviting swimming pool glistened in the sun, while the tennis court made me wish I had brought my racket.
As we strolled the grounds and the dogs frolicked in utter bliss, Catherine recounted the history of the château. Built around 1630 in the reign of Louis XIII by Sebastian le Hardy, it was Louis XIV’s visit around 1651 from which the name Château de la Trousse most likely originates. He is said to have commented that the chateau was “bien troussé” (“well fitted-out”). The estate fell into disrepair following the French Revolution, and in 1865 the current château was constructed and the gardens were redone. Read more about the history, here.
It wasn’t until 1998 that a Dutch owner acquired the property, renovated the château and gardens and created a number of private apartments. By a stroke of luck, Catherine discovered this castle and made it her home.
I felt such peace and tranquility walking the grounds, imagining the rich and varied tales of lives that once occupied the castle, and the privileged lives of those that moved here more recently.
Catherine took me into the château’s kitchen where time stood still, now only used for residents’ festivities.
She described the enchanting sunsets viewed from the back terrace. I only wish I could have stayed long enough to experience one myself.
The common lounge was reminiscent of centuries past, so regal and ornate. We even had a peek into the chapel where many a mass and celebration took place.
It being tea time, we headed up to Catherine’s royal chambers on the top floor of the château, led by her dogs.
Needless to say, her one-bedroom apartment, outfitted with stunning antiques, was indeed fit for a queen.
We toasted to a life well lived (in a castle no less) as I admired the picture perfect views from her window.
For anyone dreaming of life in a château, good news! Catherine is selling her furnished apartment to move to another space on the property where her dogs can roam more freely. View more photos here and contact her at catherineoharaireland@gmail.com for information or to plan a visit.
My first visit to Prague many years ago recalled memories of strolling in the picturesque Old Town and crossing imposing Charles Bridge stretching along the Vltava river with a view of the 9th century Prague Castle in the distance. A few weeks ago I returned to Prague to discover a city that has recently taken on a new identity as a gastronomic and cultural capital, thanks in large part to the team behind Manifesto Market.
Located in the heart of the Florenci district, Manifesto Market has turned a former wasteland into the city’s first cashless pop-up market. The brainchild of Martin Barry, a landscape architect from New York who also helms non-profit reSITE, Manifesto has become exactly what Martin envisioned. Effectively, he created “a universe where people come together to share good food and culture and become inspired.” Meeting Martin and his vivacious Czech colleague Radka felt like reconnecting with old friends.
The moment I entered Manifesto Market, the vibrant energy was palpable. A sense of belonging was felt throughout the inviting space, built almost overnight from 27 containers. Music filled the light spring air as families and groups of friends gathered to feast on cuisine from all corners of the globe. I couldn’t wait to taste the over twenty food stands, from gourmet Italian dishes to Mexican, Vietnamese and Japanese street food, not to mention American BBQ and Israeli specialties including my favorite, hummus!
With the goal of trying every cuisine, I dined to my heart’s content over the few days I spent in Prague, impressed by the quality and selection in food and drink, and all at street food prices. By night I sipped on expertly concocted cocktails from one of the three bars and couldn’t leave without trying the local beer brews. Even my sweet tooth was satiated with mini pancakes, a decadent take on Dutch poffertjes, and rolled ice-cream, available even in non-dairy vegan varieties. Manifesto Market is undoubtedly a gastronomic paradise! What’s more, the market is cashless making it all that much more efficient.
Focused on culture, Manifesto Market boasts a book store with a notable selection of reading material for both adults and kids. Among the food stalls there’s also a boutique featuring sustainable design, and a florist. The weekend line-up includes feature films and live music or a superstar DJ.
Today marks one year since the opening of Prague’s Manifesto Florenci, and only a few weeks until the second outpost, Manifesto Smichov opens on July 19th. Even more reason to visit this cultural mecca. Me? I’ll be back!
What makes Paris so unique, aside from its inimitable charm and the beauty discovered around every cobbled corner, are this fashion capital’s artisanal ateliers. It is behind these doors that creative magic happens if you are lucky enough to open one of them.
I recently had the opportunity to discover one of these venerated ateliers with Secret Journeys Paris. Maison Legeron, dating back to 1727, is one of the last independent workshops of its kind. Bruno Legeron hand-crafts silk flowers and feather details, using the same techniques passed down to him from three generations.
Accompanied by Harriet Welty Rochefort, award-winning author of three books about French culture, I entered the bespoke world of Atelier Legeron. It was Bruno Legeron who greeted us and animatedly spoke about his decades-old clients, Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent among them. It was Legeron who crafted camellias even before they became a signature of Chanel!
The tour continued to the workshops where skillful artisans were fastidiously sewing feather details for YSL shoes. I even had a chance to try on a luxurious boa and discover variations in feathers and exactly how they are dyed. From there I learned about the silk dying process and got a peek into the rooms where the flowers are cut and composed. What a privilege!
I was left in awe as I explored this history ridden atelier, learning 17th-century techniques from the master craftsman himself. With Bruno Legeron at the helm, it became even more clear why Paris sets the stage for haute couture.
Discover the magic of flowers and feathers at Atelier Legeron by taking your own Secret Journey in Paris.
Where better to go vintage shopping than in the city that created French luxury brands Chanel, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, among many others. While there are second-hand shops scattered around Paris, known as dépôt–venteto the locals, here are a few of my favorites. Get ready for a vintage fashion shopping spree!
La Marelle is tucked into 19th century covered passage Galerie Vivienne. This consignment shop offers quite the selection, from top ready-to-wear labels with shoes and bags to match. Head up the narrow stairwell to the second floor to find a treasure trove of luxury brands including Issey Mikaye, Miu Miu and Lanvin.
Beneath the regal arcades of Palais Royal discover Gabrielle Geppert, dressed to perfection in her signature vintage attire. Gabrielle opened her treasure trove in 2003 and has been collecting and selling clothes, bags, jewelry, shoes, and sunglasses ever since. Here you can find an impressive array of Hermès, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior. Next door, discover her own label of “graphic poetic” including clothing, jewelry, and accessories.
Featuring a vast selection of contemporary brands, Chercheminippes has something for everyone. With seven locations all along Rue du Cherche-Midi, you can dress the whole family and decorate your home. There’s even a shop dedicated to children and another exclusively for women’s accessories.
Citizen Concept Store is well stocked with fashions from past to present day, including some of the most luxurious French and international labels. From scarves to shoes to handbags, this Haut Marais boutique will quickly become a favorite vintage shopping destination. Owner Laurent will greet you warmly and offer advice on his well-curated collections.
Citizen Concept Store // 8 rue du Roi Doré 75003 // +33 01 42 78 93 75 // Monday-Sunday 11-7
Discover a rainbow of vintage ware from the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s just steps away from Place de la République in the 10th arrondissement. (Read more about the neighborhood in my article for The Independent.) THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. opened in 2008 and boasts a 200m2 (over 2,000 square feet) space where both men and women can reinvent themselves in style. They also recently added their own label to the mix.
THANX GOD I’M A V.I.P. // 12 rue de Lancry 75010 // +33 (0)1 42 03 02 09 // Monday-Saturday 2-8
