Two days of my life were spent aboard a train headed from Lhasa to Beijing. A journey of 4,064 kilometers to be exact. This time was filled with visions of sheep grazing in verdant pastures, and snow capped mountain peaks. These vistas became scenes of my life as I sat in deep peace upon my bunk, fully aware of the luxury of time. My cabin mates were two Tibetans and a Chinese man. I befriended the somewhat English-speaking Tibetan and as hours grew long and conversation grew short I taught him to play my beloved game of backgammon. In turn he taught me a Tibetan game. In this way, after many cups of tea and wanders into the dining car, more for the sake of observation than nourishment…much reading and writing…time passed. I was one of only 5 Westerners aboard the train. This time was my own, blissfully trapped in a moving vessel. A head filled with thoughts reflected through eyes filled with visions.
Today I feasted on a delicious Tibetan lunch of noodles and pork dumplings (or was it yak?), cooked by nuns. There exist 3 nunneries in Lhasa and I was privileged to visit one and observe the daily lives of the 100 residing nuns. I could spend all day surrounded by their calm. Have I found my calling? I think not! During these last 5 days I have grown very fond of our guide Tenzin (who was once a monk himself). He has most graciously introduced us into the Tibetan culture and made us feel at home. My senses are filled and I shall take these visions and inner peace with me as the train departs for Beijing in the early morning…Until then my observations and meditations in Lhasa continue.
These are the vistas that will accompany me on my 48 hour train journey to Beijing…the adventure continues!
The Patala Palace, official residence of the Dalai Lamas
A sheep and I taking refuge at the Drepong Monastery
I have arrived to “the Holy City” of Lhasa. It feels much like a dream, surrounded by monks and mountains, at an altitude of 12,000 feet. My head and heart feel light as I wander through this spiritual wonderland with the aid of Tenzin the tour guide. In hours which feel like days, I have seen so much and the adventure has only just begun. My first stop was at the spiritual heart of the city, the Jokhang Temple, a mix of Tibetan, Indian, Nepalese, and Chinese architecture. within Tibet’s holiest shrine thousands of butter candles illuminate the most sacred Buddha statue, one of over 200 so deeply revered by its worshipers.
At the Sera Monastery, one of the 3 monasteries in Lhasa housing over 2,400 monks, I was amazed to observe a philosophical debate. Such passion and energy in the words and motions of these peace abiding monks. If only I could understand their banter…
The people of Tibet are, in a word, beautiful.
The past week has been a whirlwind, feeling much more like a month with all that I have seen, eaten, experienced…and all those that I have met. I feel completely immersed in the life here and have even begun to find my way around the city, taking subways, speaking with the locals (still limited to ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’, spoken mostly with the eyes). One night I attended an art opening of international female artists at a wonderful space (www.1918artspace.com) followed by a grand ‘hot pot’ dinner with the artists. The Chinese dining experience is quite an event in itself! Last night I met several friends at Barbarossa, a favorite moroccan lounge of mine, placed most serenely on a lake, and onwards to Bar Rouge for champagne in the rain and a dance amidst the ex-pats.
Today a tasty brunch at Sasha’s with Crystyl, Anthony and Blair who has flown in from Hong Kong. What dear friends I have made in this city which has most graciously drawn me in! The ‘Art in America’ show at the Shanghai Museum and MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) satisfied my mild cravings of the city and culture I left behind. I will miss this place and it’s people and the life that I have found here. Indeed parting is such sweet sorrow as I bid farewell to Shanghai and prepare to greet Tibet.