Paris Picks : Romantic Spots

To visit Paris is to fall in love, with the city, with the object of your affection, and above all, with yourself. Anyone who has ever stepped foot in the City of Lights knows that the French capital will charm you to no end. Simply strolling the cobbled streets of the Right or Left Banks is an experience in indulging the senses.

Beyond each historic café-lined corner another secret awaits to be discovered. While the pleasure lies in uncovering your own Parisian treasures, allow me to share a few of my romantic favorites, on the occasion of Valentine’s Day.

Let’s start with chocolate, everyone’s favorite indulgence, non? While there are many artisanal chocolatiers that merit a tasting, it’s Jacques Genin that wins my heart. Maybe it’s because his chocolat chaud is one of the most decadent in Paris, not to mention his famous Paris-Brest, a light pastry with a creamy praline filling. Regardless, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget. Take a seat at his cozy Haut Marais tea salon and order sweets to your heart’s content. And don’t forget to pick up a box of chocolate on your way out. Find my list of other top chocolatiers to taste, here.

Jacques Genin // 133 Rue de Turenne 75003 // Tuesday-Sunday 11-7 // 01 45 77 29 01

Only in Paris will you find the Museum of Romantic Life, better known as the Musée de la Vie Romantique. Once home to painter Ary Scheffer, this was where Parisian intellectuals would meet, to the tunes of Frédéric Chopin playing the piano. Included in their entourage were George Sand, Franz Liszt, and Charles Dickens. Take a walk through this 1830 hôtel particulier and settle into its enchanting garden for lunch by Rose Bakery.

Musée de la Vie Romantique // 16 Rue Chaptal 75009 // Tuesday-Sunday 10-6

Given the chill of February, where better to spend an afternoon warming up with your loved one than in the heat of a luxurious hammam? Les Cent Ciels is just the place to spoil yourself, and maybe even a date. Revel in a cleansing gommage, where you can soak in the steam for hours, and book a rejuvenating massage for an extra treat. Read about my other favorite hammams here.

Les Cent Ciels // 7 Rue de Nemours 75011 // Hours vary daily // 01 55 28 95 75

Since Paris is also the fashion capital, stop by Galeries Lafayette, one of the most regal department stores in the world. If your heart isn’t into shopping, enjoy the ornate interiors, dating back to the 19th century. These days there’s a 9-meter long glass walkway suspended 16 meters high in mid-air, allowing you an even closer look at the majestic dome. Continue to the top floor for one of the most stunning rooftop views of Paris. Are you in love yet?

Galeries Lafayette // 40 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 // Mon-Sat 9:30-8:30, Sunday 11-8 // 01 42 82 34 56

The capital of love is also the capital of fine dining. Why not dine in a historic monument? Head to the Gare de Lyon, one of Paris’s seven train stations, and rather than booking a ticket (though that’s always enticing), head up the stairs to Le Train Bleu. Originally created for the Exposition Universelle in 1900, each room represents a different region of France, with 41 paintings lining the richly decorated walls. In 1963, it was coined with its current name and has since then become an address frequented by those with a taste for elegance.

Le Train Bleu // Place Louis-Armand 75012 // Monday-Sunday 7:30-10:30 // 01 43 43 09 06

Regardless of where you find yourself on Valentine’s Day, or any day for that matter, take time to inhale what is so deeply Parisian; strolling from the Right Bank to the Left with no clear destination in mind; stopping at a café terrace for a café crème with a side of people watching; picking up a warm baguette as the scents of freshly baked bread waft through the air. More simply, falling in love with each moment as it finds you.

Discovering Warsaw

A few weeks ago I ventured to Warsaw, I city I had often visited as a child en route to summers in Sanok with family. Having not been to Warsaw in well over a decade, I was eager to discover Poland’s vibrant capital city as an adult. What’s more, the most luxurious hotel in all of Poland, Raffles Europejski Warsaw, had just opened its doors. Where better to stay, just minutes away from the city’s Old Town.

Arriving to Raffles Europejski Warsaw, a short drive from the airport, I was in awe at the level of refinement in this over 160-year-old neo-renaissance palace built by Enrico Marconi, dating back to 1857. Far surpassing its former glory, this lavish hotel has redefined Polish luxury, combining historic elements with modern amenities.

Along with my cousin Dagmara who joined me from Kraków, we settled into Hotel Europejski, from the elegant Europejski Grill where we dined on modern Polish cuisine (including a decadent dessert of burnt butter gelato), to a signature drink at the stylish Long Bar, one of Raffles defining features. We also glanced into the humidor, eyeing the selection of single-malts and Armagnac.

Our spacious suite was fit for a queen, or two in this case. Even the marble bathroom was awe-inspiring. Not to mention the unique and inviting design of each room, making you feel very much at home, especially for an artist’s soul such as my own. Each room features original artwork by 120 Polish artists. With almost 500 works, Hotel Europejski contains one of the largest art collections in Poland. I couldn’t resist taking a tour, akin to a museum. Even the spa boasted a mosaic recovered from the hotel’s earlier days, as well as a menu filled with revitalizing treatments. (I recommend the signature massage using essential oils.)

A fan of all things sweet, we quickly discovered Lourse Warszawa patisserie, once the city’s most famous spot for confections and tea. The cakes looked as good as those in Paris, so of course we had to try a few, including Lourse’s signature chocolate cake. Pure heaven!

Minutes away from the hotel sits Warsaw’s Old Town. We spent an afternoon charmed by this medieval neighborhood reconstructed after World War II, also home to the Royal Castle. One of the most well-known restaurants Polka, served us a savory plate of pierogi. Craving more of this Polish specialty, the following day Dagmara and I dined at Stolica, a top spot for traditional Polish cuisine. Even better for something more refined. Another meal was enjoyed at Warszawa Wschodnia at the helm of rising star chef Mateusz Gessler. Open 24 hours and 7 days a week, it’s set in what’s called the Soho Factory, a more industrial part of Warsaw.

There’s no lack of culture in Warsaw, but this quick trip was more about enjoying the lavish comforts of Raffles Europejski Warsaw and the neighborhood. We did make it to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum for a lesson in classical music. The rest we’ll leave for the next visit.

Paris Postcards

The art of letter writing may, unfortunately, have ended with the ease of sending emails, but postcards will always be an intimate way to share a faraway journey with those dear to us. I even sent my mom one postcard from every destination I visited during my around-the-world trip of 32 countries, and continue to send them whenever we travel. Equally, I’m always touched to receive a handwritten note from faraway.

When I discovered Guy Thomas Hibbert‘s first book Paris Postcards, I was intrigued. These short stories, set in Paris from the 1920s to the present day, eloquently describe the lives of a motley mix of characters. Upon reading their tales, these Parisians immediately take residence in your mind. Whether it’s a weary soldier finding his way in post-war Paris; a reputable right bank waiter whose status quo life suddenly reveals a twist of fate; an overzealous poet who falls in love with the wrong woman. The thread that weaves all eleven of these short stories together is a mysterious Paris postcard. This postcard proves a clue to each one of these heartfelt compositions. In the words of Hibbert, “In these stories I wanted to explore the mystique of Paris – how it has proved to be such a magnetic draw for romantics, artists, adventurers and lost souls.” And that, he does.

I’m sure this book will become a favorite! If you’re looking for more books about Paris, here are my Paris Picks.

Adventures in Portugal : Part two

From Porto we rented a car and hit the road. Our first stop was at the surf town of Nazaré. It’s here where the biggest waves ever surfed can be found, although during our visit the sea could not have been calmer.

Following a heavenly lunch of freshly caught fish at restaurant Taberna da Praia, we continued on to Óbidos. This medieval town just an hour north of Lisbon oozes with charm. As soon as we entered the labyrinth of whitewashed houses trimmed in royal blue and bright yellow, we were smitten. Having arrived just in time for sunset, we walked along the wall surrounding the town and delighted in the scenes that unraveled below.

It was the Moors who fortified Óbidos and inspired the minimalist color palette which fit my design aesthetic perfectly. Needless to say, I couldn’t stop photographing every corner of this town!

Home in Óbidos was at The Literary Man, a boutique hotel boasting 70,000 books, the largest collection of books of any hotel in the world! Following dinner at nearby restaurant Jamon Jamon, we curled up by the fire and dove into a few of these literary treasures.

The following day it was time to leave Óbidos and continue our journey south, but not until we tried their local specialty Ginja, a sweet cherry liquor, perfectly paired with chocolate. Yet another reason to love Óbidos!

We continued the long drive until we reached the Algarve and our home for the next few nights, the small town of Carvoeiro. The views from our B&B were of the limestone cliffs so famous to this region of Portugal. As the sun set we settled into our cozy terrace with a bottle of wine from the Duoro Valley, and took it all in.

Just steps away we discovered hidden gem Praia do Paraiso, also known as Paradise Beach, for good reason.

The next morning we embarked on a journey by foot. I had promised my Italian a hike on this trip, and what better than the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, a total of 18km (10 miles) from our B&B. Did I mention this was not an easy hike? But well worth it for the stunning cliffside views!

Nearly at the end, we stopped for a heavenly (and well deserved lunch) at the only open restaurant we could find, and incidentally one of the best, O Pescador. Soon it would be time to return back along the same path, the cliffs glowing beneath us.

I felt very accomplished as we returned to Carvoeiro and resumed our positions on the terrace as the sun set, wine in hand, ending another memorable day in the sun-drenched Algarve.

It was now time to head to our final destination on these adventures in Portugal. But first, my Italian had a surprise stop up his sleeve, as he often does. We had arrived to Santa Luzia, and much to my pleasure I soon found out this was the “capital of octopus”, their local specialty and my absolute favorite! We had quite a feast at Casa do Polvo, tasting seven different types of octopus dishes. Needless to say, we skipped dinner.

Our last stop, and where we would ring in the new year, was nearby Tavira. This ancient Moorish town is considered the most charming in the Algarve. We settled into Tavira House Hotel and took to exploring the neighborhood.

New Year’s Eve brought with it a live concert, filling the small town with thousands of revelers, and at midnight a show of fireworks lit up the sky. As we had spent the last day of 2018, so we spent the first day of 2019, lounging lazily in the sunshine on one of Tavira’s sandy beaches. My Italian went for a run while I dreamt of our next beach getaway, knowing all too well that a wintry Paris awaited us.



Adventures in Portugal : Part one

This year for the holidays my Italian and I decided to embark on a new adventure. After becoming enamored with Lisbon while visiting the city two years ago, we vowed to return and explore more of this vibrant country. How better to discover Portugal’s secrets than via a Viking river cruise up and down the Duoro?

The journey began in Lisbon where I was eager to become reacquainted with this dynamic city while discovering more of its treasures.

These included the Belém Tower, built on the Tagus river between 1514 and 1520 under the reign of Manuel I as part of the city’s defense system.

Not far away, our expert guide led us to Jerónimos Monastery, a spectacular 500-year-old masterpiece. This symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery is one of the most visited sights in Lisbon.

The last stop in Lisbon was to The National Azulejo Museum where I learned all about the art of Portuguese tiles. It was the Portuguese that first created mosaics upon their azulejo tiles, as evidenced in these decorative tiles, some dating back to the 15th century. I even had the chance to create my own.

En route to Porto we stopped at the medieval town of Coimbra. Here sits the oldest university in Portugal, and one of the oldest in the world. The University of Coimbra was established in 1290 and is believed to be the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. Walking around this World heritage site, I could see where J.K. Rowling found her inspiration.

It was now time to board our Viking vessel and discover the enchanting Duoro river valley, right from our cabin.

As soon as we left Porto, a magical landscape of vineyards and lush greenery unraveled before our eyes. Sitting aboard the Viking Torgil I became mesmerized by the changing colors as we sailed along the river.

Our first stop along the Duoro was to the majestic Mateus Palace. Built in the early 18th-century, this palace boasts the finest baroque architecture in Portugal. An impressive collection of artifacts and furnishings from around the world fill the interior rooms, including a vast library. Part of the palace is still lived in by the family who own it. The perfectly manicured gardens were modeled after Versailles.

What made this Viking journey even more thrilling was an overnight stop to Salamanca, Spain. I had first visited this historic city as a student and couldn’t wait to explore it again with my Italian in tow.

From the Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1120 to the new Baroque cathedral, both elaborate works of art, to the 13th-century university, Salamanca is filled with architectural riches. Our eyes opened wide as we toured the city with our Viking guide.

I was completely enchanted with the House of Shells as it’s called, now the Public Library of Salamanca. Combining Gothic, Moorish and Italian styles of architecture, this former library constructed in the 15th-century features 400 shells on its exterior facade. Mere decoration or a symbol of love? My theory would be the latter. The views of the cathedral from within this, the oldest library in Europe, were breathtaking!

After touring Salamanca’s university, one of the oldest in the world, it was time to head back to the Viking Torgil just in time to celebrate Christmas in Portugal.

On Christmas Eve we were invited to spend midnight mass at the Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies in Lamego. We were moved by attending mass in this church dedicated to Mary, the Mother of Jesus. For Christmas day we returned to this sacred church, walking the 686 steps down to the village, admiring the azulejos along the way.

After many days and nights spent along the Duoro river, it was time to return to where the journey first began, and discover the vibrant city of Porto.

Needless to say, it was love at first sight. I couldn’t wait to become better acquainted with Porto’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From views of Porto from above, where a Viking guide educated us on the history of the city, to the São Bento train station where 20,000 azulejo tiles tell many a story, to the Ribeira neighborhood for a dose of shopping. We eagerly took it all in, returning to our Viking cabin where we could enjoy Porto city views by night.

After two days in Porto, our wondrous Viking cruise had come to an end and we prepared to head south, this time traveling by land. Stay tuned for part two of our adventures in Portugal…

New Year Intentions

A new year has begun. And with it come resolutions. Or do they? I’ve stopped resolving to do and to be (or not to do and to be), and instead I create intentions. Is this an easy way out of making (and sticking to) resolutions? Actually, I think it’s an even stronger way to resolve to do and to be. So, what are these intentions for the months and years ahead? I’m sharing them in case you too would like to partake in my intentions, or to create your own. After this I’ll be back to blogging about Paris and travels, don’t worry.

  • Eliminate negative energy. We all know what feels good, and who aids in elevating those good feelings.
  • Focus more on how you view yourself, and less on how you think the world views you.
  • Develop a spiritual practice in which to communicate with God or the universe. And speak to your hearts content.
  • Take time to simply be. To see the world around you and to enjoy what is, rather than thinking of what could or should be.
  • Know that happiness is often a choice. And choose it. And know that it’s not up to anyone or anything to provide it. Also know that it’s okay to have bad moments. That’s called life.

Any of your own intentions to share? I’d love to hear them!

1 … 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 … 112