To end the year, I’m sharing a post I wrote for Urbansider, a new Paris insider’s guide that I’m proud to be a part of. As one of their first ‘Urbansiders’ I wrote about my experience of moving to Paris, already nine years ago, and how I slowly but resolutely found my way. I welcome you to read more of my Urbansider articles here.
It was my first week in Paris. A new chapter was about to be written, and it was up to me how the pages would be filled. The late summer sun teased me with endless sunsets in hues of pink and gold. I walked along the Seine wrapped in love, the kind that resides within and often takes years to discover. My journey had taken me around the world and back again, with Paris as my new backdrop, and a soulful Italian center stage.
My thoughts were only of the present moment. What I had lived and
learned years prior was now part of my rich and varied history. This
life that I had often dreamt about was my present. In all truth, a gift.
The future yet unknown, filled with endless possibilities, was waiting
in the wings to reveal itself.
Those first weeks quickly turned into months, as leaves fell and blue
skies turned gray. My mood too, changed with the seasons as I tried to
understand who I was in this new life. More accurately, who did I want
to become? I spent those early days coming to peace with my ego and
listening more acutely to my soul. Paris was the stage on which to set
my dreams in motion, this I was certain of. The question remained, how?
Little by little I found my way, a stranger in a foreign land.
Courage was my guide and humility became my teacher. I began to create a
name for myself, to design my namesake handbags, to write a blog, and
soon afterward to publish articles; to find my place and purpose. In so
doing I became my truest self. And for this, I will be forever grateful
to Paris.
Imagine a city offering plenty of pedestrian streets, stellar restaurants, culture in its many forms and trams as the main mode of transport. And let’s not forget the wine. Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? Welcome to Bordeaux.
Last weekend my Italian and I hopped aboard the train for a two-hour ride from Paris to Bordeaux. We had briefly visited the city en route to Arcachon & Cap Ferret, and I already felt then that it was uniquely special.
Ready to discover what I consider to be the highlights of this cultural mecca, and what has quickly become a favorite French city? If you don’t trust me, you can check in with Bordeaux Tourism.
You’ll be just minutes away from the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, home to both the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux, and where you can book tickets to view one of these impressive performances. On weekends keep an eye out for more intimate classical music concerts starting at only 10€.
EAT: Next door to the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux discoverLe Quatrième Mur, an elegant restaurant with renowned chef Philippe Etchebest at the helm. Both the food and the setting makes for a memorable evening.
Another dining favorite is Cromagnon, open only a year and already one of Bordeaux’s top-rated restaurants. The female chef, originally from Moldova prepares creatively infused combinations including tuna tartar and seared foisgras with a side of almond hummus. I recommend the 7-course tasting menu paired with wine.
Another dining spot that merits a visit is Bordeaux’s newly opened food hall Les Halles de Bacalan. This industrial space features food from all over the globe, including Spanish tapas, a cheese section, a healthy canteen, and of course a truffle stand. The perfect stop before or after a visit to the neighboring Cité du Vin.
VISIT: A trip to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a visit to this exceptional museum and exhibition space dedicated to wine. La Cité du Vin tells many stories both in its innovative design and the permanent exhibition filling over 3,000m2. Prepare to discover the culture and civilizations of wine, ending with a glass of wine and a 360° view of Bordeaux. Make sure to stop at the wine shop on the ground floor where you can find an impressive selection of wines from around the world.
Another museum not to miss is the CAPC musée d’artcontemporain de Bordeaux. This Contemporary Art Museum, once a warehouse, boasts not only a world of artists and exhibitions that will equally intrigue and delight the mind, the rooftop proves a destination in itself. There’s also a restaurant, Café du Musée.
SHOP: Aside from buying wines from the region, there are a few spots that I’d suggest stopping by for a look, a smell, or a taste. The Parfumerie de L’Opéra features its own Bordeaux scent, as well as many other hard to find fragrances. Librairie Mollat is the first independent bookstore in France, and with a sizeable foreign language section, there’s something for every bookworm. La Maison Darricau is a four-generations-old chocolate maker, exclusive to Bordeaux. Their Grain de Sable (hazelnut praline with sea salt) flavor alone is worth the stop!
RELAX: My favorite hammam Les Cent Ciels has just opened in Bordeaux. How better to end a weekend of dining and museum-going than relaxing at a luxurious hammam, complete with body scrub, mud mask and massage?
There’s much more to discover in the elegant and culturally rich Bordeaux, but I’ll leave that until next time.
With Paris being the fashion capital and home to so many timeless luxury brands, where better to shop the outlets? Namely those French brands we all covet, including Céline, Longchamp, and Lacoste. Having just returned from La Vallée Village, a 45-minute drive, bur or train ride outside of Paris, I can honestly say this is the most stunning outlet shopping center I’ve had the pleasure to visit and shop at. And with 120 international brands at at least 33% off retail prices, open 7 days a week, what’s not to love?
La Vallée Village resembles an actual village, with tree-lined pedestrian streets and pastel-colored facades.
Here’s a little secret. The famous bi-annual Paris sales or soldes as we call them, begin a week early here!
There are plenty of cafes in which to take a break from the thrill of shopping and find serenity over a plate of Ladurée macarons, or hot chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat. At new restaurant Menu Palais, taste cuisine created by expert chef Stéphane d’Aboville in an elegant setting echoing the Mini Palais in Paris.
La Vallée Village is just as fashionable as its shops, all dressed up in festive decor for the holiday season.
The highlight of my visit, aside from the shopping of course, was the lighting ceremony, in which the myriad of lanterns lit up, along with the dozens of facades lining this shopping village. It was musical group Les Parisiennes that officiated the ceremony, followed by an animated concert. (See the ladies on the balcony?)
If you’re planning your own trip to La Vallée Village, which I highly recommend, the easiest way from Paris is via RER A “Val d’Europe” Station or by Shopping Express® Shuttle Service: twice daily from Place des Pyramides.
I’ve always loved London. Just a quick Eurostar ride away, it’s easy to spend a few days in this dynamic city. My most recent trip across the channel inspired me to design a London bag collection since my bags do love to travel. On a recent afternoon I met with photographer Catherine O’Hara at one of my beloved locations in Paris, Palais Royal. I dressed in the latest Koshka Mashka attire – a perfect compliment to Kasia Dietz handbags! Here’s the Kensington tote, waterproof and as always, reversible. Isn’t tartan timelessly elegant and stylish?
Nothing like stopping for a coffee with a little people watching at cafe Le Nemours. The Shoreditch tote is named for this eclectic and artsy London neighborhood.
In the past I had designed an extra-large tote bag, and soon sold out of it. The XL style is back, this time inspired by Notting Hill. This tote too is reversible, revealing a floral side. The perfect weekender!
To thank you for your continuous support, and since today is Small Business Saturday, I’m offering 30% off all Kasia Dietz handbags until November 30th using code: shopsmall. Happy shopping!
Leave it to culinary genius Thierry Marx to create street food, the gourmet and organic version that is. I had the good fortune of meeting this two-Michelin star chef a few years ago during a day discovering his Parisian life, and became an instant fan. Welcome to his latest venture opened just weeks ago, Marxito, a collaboration between Marx and Marseilles designer Ora Ito.
What exactly is Marxito? According to Marx, it’s “two softly puffed buckwheat buns filled with products mainly from plant origin, coming from organic agriculture”. Naturally, I had to try for myself.
These sweet and savory delicacies are all made to order, fusing Brittany (Marx’s hometown) with Japan. Out of the four sandwich options, I chose pink salmon pickle (smoked salmon, avocado, Japanese radish, romaine lettuce, miso sauce and basil), with a side of quinoa salad and Japanese tea. Heavenly!
Not to mention the matcha crepe that followed. Hard to resist, considering Marx’s reputation for desserts.
What takes the cake at Marxito is not only favoring small, local producers but the staff, hired from Thierry Marx’s school, Cuisine Mode d’Emploi(s), which helps the unemployed gain new skills in the culinary world.
Marxito // 1bis Rue Jean Mermoz, 75008 // +33 (0)1 47 20 92 02 // Monday-Friday 8-5:30
As a Paris-based designer who offers fashion tours and writes about fashion, I have the privilege of becoming well acquainted with fellow creators, most of whom possess a passion for designing and producing locally. The made in Paris movement is alive and well! I mentioned some of these designers in my recent Haut Marais feature in the Independent. Here are a few of these artisans that I hope you can discover and become equally enamored with during your next trip to Paris. Let them know I sent you for a truly VIP experience!
One of my favorite Paris designers is Mari of Koshka Mashka. I first discovered her Haut Marais boutique while living around the corner, and quickly fell in love with the brand. Her clothes are timelessly chic and feminine. Born in Armenia and schooled in Italy, Mari is certainly a woman of the world, dressing equally sophisticated women from all corners of the globe. What’s more, her clothing is limited edition and made in Paris.
Koshka Mashka // 36 Rue de Poitou 75003 // +33 (0)9 50 48 85 85 // Monday-Saturday 11-7
Shoes as art, anyone? Artisanal designer Zoe Lee creates sculptural shoes featuring her wood and resin heels and other signature details, using only the best leather. Zoe designs shoes for both comfort and style, each pair produced in limited editions, manufactured in Italy, and only available in Paris, the Haut Marais that is.
Zoe Lee // 19 Rue du Parc Royal 75003 // +33 (0)1 48 87 05 47 // Tuesday-Sunday 12-7
I first met Swedish-born Anika at my local manufacturer and soon after discovered her boutique, one of the first to open up in the Haut Marais. Her sophisticatedly deconstructed separates have become collectors pieces for women from around the world. Anika also specializes in leather pants, both slim and a more casual slouchy fit. And have I mentioned her butter leather skirts? Heavenly! Oh, and she custom tailors to fit.
Anika Skarstrom // 16 Rue du Pont aux Choux 75003 // +33 (0)9 83 82 32 85 // Monday-Friday 11-7, Sat 12-7
Since I met Charlotte several years ago, she moved from the rive droite to the rive gauche, where she continues to create stunning silk print blouses and dresses, along with luxurious cashmere sweaters and a number of unique accessories. Her scarves and neck ties are personal favorites, and if there’s a particular fabric you like, she may very well be able to create something just for you.
Charlotte Bialas // 67 Rue Madame, 75006 // +33 (0)1 57 40 69 10 // Tuesday-Saturday 11-7
Here’s a designer who took a vintage scarf and transformed it into an elegant blouse, a signature piece he is known for. Samy has a style all his own, mixing the old with the new to create unique womenswear. As he once told me, “I take something I know and twist it into something new.” To add to his artisanal allure, Samy still creates samples in his Haut Marais atelier.
