The Heart of London

The last few weeks have been all about family. A European holiday that took my mom to my most beloved places, from Monterosso, Italy to Paris to London, ending in the city where she and my father met years ago. For the grand finale, where better to stay than at One Aldwych, in the very heart of London. We arrived from Paris via the Eurostar, welcomed by bright blue skies. My mom has a habit of inviting the sun wherever she goes.

What was once a newspaper publishing house has in the last 20 years been converted to a privately owned five-star hotel. Though I soon found One Aldwych to be in a class of its own. The staff took every care to make our stay memorable, from the smiles exchanged in greeting to the personal notes left in the room. Not to mention the bed linens, fresh flowers, original artwork throughout the hotel… And did I mention the pool and spa? There’s also a 24-hour gym and private screening room. Had it been raining, I might not have left the hotel.

Just steps away from our room with a gorgeous view sits Covent Garden along with Seven Dials, a convergence of seven streets filled with boutiques, cafes, and plenty of charm. This being one of London’s most picturesque neighborhoods, we set off on foot to explore. We also stopped by the nearby National Gallery for a dose of British and French art. Across the street from One Aldwych, the Somerset House with the Courtauld Gallery houses one of the finest Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collections in the world. Art for days!

To venture further afield from Harrod’s to Oxford Street to Trafalgar Square, we hopped on the famous red London bus and took in the city from the upper deck. Here’s a tip: buy a £5 bus card and ride all day!

One Aldwych hotel is located in the heart of the theater district, evident as the Lion King peers into the windows of the elegant lounge. We opted to dine at the hotel which boasts two gourmet restaurants; Indigo, both locally sourced and dairy and gluten free at the helm of Chef Dominic Teague; and Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, a more high end option from Michelin starred Chef Eneko Atxa. The Lobby Bar itself is worth a visit with its ‘Showtime Menu’ featuring theater themed cocktails. Neither of us could resist as we sipped our Dionysus and Aldwych Mule concoctions before heading to the mezzanine for a decadent dinner. I took note that One Aldwych offers Film & Fizz nights in their 30-seat screening room. Champagne, dinner and a movie, anyone?

It was not easy to leave when the time came, mom back to the US and I to Paris. Without a doubt there was no better place to end our mother/daughter sojourn than in the luxurious and friendly embrace of One Aldwych.

Paris Picks: Anglo Entertainment

While strolling around Paris can certainly provide hours of entertainment, in recent years I’ve discovered a few noteworthy options for non-French speakers to relax and enjoy la vie parisienne while becoming better acquainted with French culture. Buy a ticket or book a seat and prepare for a little Anglo entertainment on your next visit to Paris!

Started by my dear and ingenious friend Daisy de Plume several years ago, THATMuse, short for Treasure Hunt at the Museum, is the most thrilling way to acquaint yourself with Paris’s most remarkable museums, including the Louvre and Musee D’Orsay. Having attended her first ever hunt at the Louvre, and many to follow including her Paris street hunts, I can well testify to the hours of fun her treasure hunts provide. She’s even recently expanded to the British Museum,  Victoria & Albert Museum and Natural History Museum in London.

THATMuse (Treasure Hunt at the Museum)

Ready to enjoy French plays without speaking a word of French? Theatre in Paris offers performances with English surtitles,  allowing you to watch and understand the original show, whether it be a musical, opera or comedy. The setting in one of Paris’s many historic theatres alone will impress! Here’s my recent experience.

Theatre in Paris

Experience France’s famous cinema culture, in English. Lost in Frenchlation provides the best of French cinema, both new releases and classics, to the Anglophone community in Paris. Enjoy screenings at independent cinemas all over the city, while mingling with old or new friends over a cocktail before the show.

Lost in Frenchlation

If you’re looking for a few good laughs while visiting the city of lights, leave it to Julia Collas. This one-woman show is 100% in English and 100% guaranteed to entertain. A natural comedian who left the corporate world to pursue her passion, Julia will introduce you to the Parisian life in this one hour show, French accent and all.

Oh My God She’s Parisian

Discovering Marrakech

Marrakech has been on the top of my travel list for as long as I can remember. Even more so after visiting Essaouira a few years ago. There’s something other-worldly about Morocco that appeals to all my senses. The vibrancy of the city was evident from the moment I stepped into the medina, just minutes away from my luxurious home at Riad Farnatchi. From here I wandered until I was happily lost within this world of color.

SHOP: First stop after settling in? Exploring the souk, of course! With hundreds of stalls selling everything from wicker baskets to carpets to house slippers, it’s complete sensory overload. The key is to focus on what captures your interest, and to bargain. After some intense negotiating, I bought a few handmade slippers and tunics for my mom, and had my eye on a Moroccan lamp. Next time!



VISIT: After great anticipation, The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Marrakech opened in October 2017, showcasing dozens of pieces from the designers iconic fashion collections. Discovering the city in 1966, Yves Saint Laurent fell in love with “the colors and light found there, and its art of living” and made it his second home. To compliment the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris which I recently visited, this sister museum reveals more of the life and work of this revered designer, one of my personal favorites.

Just 100 meters away sits the enchanting Jardin Majorelle, a labor of love created over forty years by French painter Jacques Majorelle. A setting where Yves Saint Laurent often found inspiration, “seduced by this oasis where colours used by Matisse were mixed with those of nature,” he and his partner Pierre Bergé purchased the land in the 80’s and set about saving and restoring it. The villa at Jardin Majorelle houses the Berber Museum and a collection of Marjorelle’s paintings. Here too, both Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé are honored.

EAT: For the best in Moroccan cuisine, including sweet and savory tagine, head up to Terrasse des Epices where you can dine with the sun, just above the souk. Nomad is another hotspot nearby. For dinner make a reservation at seductive Le Foundouk, which boasts one of the most stunning rooftops in Marrakech.



I’m already counting the days until my next encounter with the enchanting medieval walled city of Marrakech.

Riad Farnatchi

Ever since my first visit to Morocco over two years ago, when my Italian surprised me with a trip to Essaouira, I’ve been longing to return, with Marrakech at the top of the list. This dream became a reality when I discovered luxurious Riad Farnatchi, the ideal home in the heart of the medina. With a friend and fellow writer in tow, we left the chill of late winter in Paris to discover the eternal sunshine of Marrakech.

We arrived to the intimate 10-bedroom Riad Farnatchi by way of the newly modernized airport, a quick 45 minute drive following a 3-hour flight from Paris.  The old world charm of the medina just outside the wooden portal, I immediately became enamored with this elegant riad, my first taste of Marrakech.

A breakfast of traditional Moroccan delights including sweet and savory flat bread Rgaïf-Msemen was enjoyed on my private terrace, to a backdrop of chirping birds and a flowing fountain. Complete tranquility found.

My suite itself was larger than most Parisian apartments, with skillfully crafted detail in every doorway and light fixture. I felt as though I had stepped back in time, with no recollection of the present day.


I knew there was an entire city waiting to be discovered, beginning with the souk just steps away, but I could have easily whiled away my days at Riad Farnatchi, both from within the courtyard and high up on the rooftop, taking in the views while calls to prayer sounded in the distance.

Dinner was savored at Riad Farnatchi’s new European-style restaurant Le Trou au Mur, where we dined on the house specialty, mixed mechuoi. This included some of the best cuts of lamb I’ve tasted, roasted in a traditional clay mechuoi oven. I’ll be back to dine on their stunning rooftop during the warmer months.

My days at Riad Farnatchi was spent discovering hidden corners of this charming hotel. I also had the pleasure of experiencing a traditional Moroccan hammam at the Farnatchi Spa. I’ve rarely felt so clean and relaxed!

Stay tuned to discover the many notable sights surrounding Riad Farnatchi in my personal guide to Marrakech.

 

 

Secrets of the Louvre

The Louvre being the largest art museum in the world also makes it the most intimidating. With so much history packed under one roof, over 38,000 works of art to be exact, where to begin? Even getting in can be an experience in anxiety. Thankfully, starting March 30th you can skip the line and visit this majestic museum with a personal guide. The Paris Guy will lead you and a small group through the many galleries. Prepare for a fun, intimate and insightful experience, along with a few secrets revealed… After all, Paris is one of the culture capitals of the world! And The Paris Guy, with their expert guides, is well aware of this.

Did you know the Louvre used to be a fortress? In the medieval age, the Louvre was a military base before it became a royal residence. Given its regal history, the French Crown Jewels are elegantly on display in the Louvre’s Galerie d’Apollon.  It was tradition to have a crown customized for each new Coronation in France, rather extravagant, don’t you think? With sparkles in your eyes, learn all about the history of the royal family.

Find out why Leonardo da Vinci’s famous portrait of Lisa Gherardini, titled Mona Lisa, is one of the most recognized works of art in existence. She’s thought to be a self-portrait, given the resemblace to da Vinci. Does anyone really know whether she’s happy or sad, or why she was painted in the first place? Maybe the guide does… Mona Lisa aside, discover other greats by Renaissance artist Botticelli, master of the 16th Century Venetian school Titian, artist Veronese, and works by the playboy Raphael.

The Louvre Museum officially opened its doors to the public in 1793. Not having been in years, I’m looking forward to taking an animated tour with The Paris Guy, and discovering many of the Louvre’s secrets. And when in Rome… there’s The Roman Guy.

Weekend in Venice

I first experienced the sensation of Venice as a university student during a quick sojourn en route to Croatia. My second visit was with girlfriends during my around-the-world trip in 2007. But it was this recent trip with my Italian in which I became completely smitten with the city. Where better to spend a weekend celebrating our love story. Almost nine years since that fortuitous day on New York’s Prince Street, we set our hearts on Venice.

SLEEP: Our first stop after getting lost in the maze of canals, was our home on the Grand Canal, Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. This once private palace possessing the air and art of a museum feels like you’ve entered a Venetian fairy tale. All that was missing to set the scene was a grand masquerade ball. Built in the 15th century and bought by the Sagredo family three centuries later, this palace remains in private hands.

The hands on the hotel’s facade however, are an installation by Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, unveiled for the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017. Titled “Support” this piece is meant to bring attention to the threat of global warming, and I hope it will remain in place for years to come. Quinn’s smaller sculptures are on display within the hotel’s grand salons. In the Music Ballroom, numerous frescoes attributed to Gaspare Diziani cover the walls and ceiling. The Sagredo family’s coat of arms can be found decorating the floor.

The long hall, featuring chandeliers in Murano glass and murals along the walls, overlooks the Grand Canal.

Perhaps the most spectacular design element of Ca’ Sagredo is the staircase by architect Andrea Tirali, completed in 1732. He also built the Ponte dei Tre Archi over the Cannaregio canal in Venice in 1688. Two marble cherubs by Francesco Bertos greet guests, while breathtaking frescoes by Pietro Longhi  hang upon the wall.

EAT: Our first lunch stop was to Cantina Do Mori, Venice’s oldest cichetti bar, dating back to 1462, and one of Casanova’s favorite haunts. We dined on an array of delicious Venetian appetizers while mingling with the kindest locals. Thanks to their generous insights, our dining plans for the next few days were sorted. Our most decadent dinner was at the helm of chef Agostino Doria of Ostaria Santa Marina. Blending creativity with tradition, he serves perfectly balanced dishes from both land and sea. My octopus risotto was buonissimo! For an equally tasty yet more casual dining experience, Ostaria da Rioba is the place. Trust me! Even more casual still, and where we feasted on cichetti is Al Timon.

DRINK: One spot not to miss is Neo-Baroque cafe dating to 1720, Caffè Florian. Positioned on Piazza San Marco, it’s certainly a tourist attraction, but worthy of a stop for coffee or an aperitivo.

VISIT: A must see while in Venice is Palazzo Ducale, or Doges’ Palace, established in the 9th century. This was the seat of the Republic’s government, bureaucracy and main prisons.

You can easily spend an entire afternoon learning about Venetian history within this regal palace. Among the impressive artwork you’ll discover one of the world’s largest oil paintings. Tintoretti’s “Paradiso” takes over one wall of the Grand Council Hall, a sight to behold, as is the room itself.

Passing through the Bridge of Sighs, named for the sighs prisoners made while being led to captivity, you’ll enter into the newer prisons. To discover hidden secrets, take the Secret Itineraries Tour.

There’s much to see and do in Venice, besides taking a gondola ride, though that’s always an option! Even a week wouldn’t merit enough time to become intimately acquainted with the city’s six sestieri, or neighborhoods. Though in one weekend, we tried! My suggestion, wander without a map in hand and enjoy getting lost. The islands of Murano (famous for glass) and Burano (lots of lace) are only a boat ride away.

ART FIX: For the art aficionados, visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, an internationally recognized museum of modern art, and Punta della Dogana, an art museum in Venice’s former customs building. Captivating centuries old works of art are exhibited in one of Venice’s most venerated churches, the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

SHOP: My favorite spot for artisanal souvenirs is Paolo Olbi’s paper shop. This legendary man (who only speaks Italian) began his craft in as a bookbinder in 1962 and years later began creating beautiful photo albums, frames and agendas. For all things luxury head to the Fondaco dei Tedeschi nearby Rialto bridge, opened in 2017. This majestic building dating back to 1228 was once a trading post for German merchants, a customs house under Napoleon, and a post office under Mussolini. Even better than the shopping? Head up to the rooftop for the best views of the city. Enjoy the dream that is Venice!

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