Just in time for our 10th wedding anniversary this past June, I was assigned a very regal assignment for Condé Nast Traveller. This included a three-day stay at brand new hotel Le Grand Contrôle, set within the grounds of Château de Versailles. WHAT A DREAM! I was thrilled to play queen for a day, or three. With my king by my side.
Immediately upon passing through the doors of Le Grand Contrôle, you feel as though you’ve entered into another era. One in which it’s easy to feel underdressed with the staff buttoned up in stately uniforms.
Upon arriving, our personal butler settled us into our room, or shall I say lavish suite, named after the Necker family. He was a finance minister for Louis XVI and his wife helped to establish a children’s hospital in Paris.
After discovering the desk I decided this would be where I’d write my memoirs. With a feather plume, of course.
The heavenly view from the bathroom looked directly onto Château de Versailles. Even from my morning bath.
The rest of the antique-filled hotel proved just as well-appointed as our suite. From the game room to the downstairs lounge to the dining salons. And might I add that dinner set quite a theatrical stage!
The privilege of staying at Le Grand Contrôle, in addition to feeling like part of the royal court and dining at the helm of Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, is an after-hours guided tour of Château de Versailles.
One of the most magical moments, other than a behind-the-scenes look at the Queen’s Chambers, was walking through an empty Hall of Mirrors. The perfect photo op! It was our wedding anniversary, after all.
Mornings at Le Grand Contrôle included a private guided tour of the Grand Trianon, the Petit Trianon, or the Queen’s Hamlet. Following each visit, I was beginning to understand Marie Antoinette on a much deeper level.
The stay at Le Grand Contrôle felt like living in the most regal period in French history. From a picnic on the grounds of Versailles to a candlelit dinner in our chambers. And let’s not forget the subterranean spa. Read all about my experience in the September issue of Condé Nast Traveller, October issue of CN Traveler US, or online.
A visit to Domaine de Primard nestled on the banks of the Eure River just one hour from Paris makes for the ideal hideaway. This recent addition to Les Domaines de Fontenille’s bespoke hotel collection – launched in 2013 by Frederic Biousse and Guillaume Foucher – is one of their most enchanting. Set upon a sprawling 40-hectare country estate, welcome to a slower and more sustainable life. As Biousse and Foucher put it, a “meaningful, convivial and joyful” home away from home.
Wake up to a soundtrack of birdsong in one of 30 artfully decorated rooms or a plush suite. A moment of reflection on your private terrace can set a perfect mood for the day. The ground-floor living spaces invite you to cozy up with a good book or admire the carefully curated artwork. Whimsical details through the vast space including sculptural snails, birds and mushrooms, each playfully paying homage to nature. Multi-starred Chef Éric Frechon in unison with Chef Yann Meinsel respect the fruitful surroundings with their seasonal menus, both at the bistro Octave and the gastronomic restaurant Églantine. Many of the vegetables and herbs omnipresent in the dishes are homegrown and hand-picked. You’ll quickly understand why the creatively refined cuisine at Églantine is “as much for the taste buds as for the eyes.”
A stroll through the gardens with over 250 varieties of blooming roses is a treat for the senses. This fragrant setting created 30 years ago by renowned landscaper Jacques Hertz remains as he left it. Meanwhile, the neighboring greenhouse with its antique knick-knacks and gardening tools is as curious as it is charming. Take note of the hundred-year-old trees while exploring the rest of the bucolic grounds, equally enjoyed by the estate’s horses and cows.
Relaxing takes on many forms at Domaine de Primard. Take your pick from an invigorating spa treatment using all-natural products by Suzanne Kaufmann, a walk in the neighboring woods or a swim in the heated outdoor pool. However you choose to spend your time, you’re invited to end your day by the lakeside guinguette-style bar for an evening aperitif, happily disconnected. There’s no doubt that this new chapter of an 18th-century home once belonging to Catherine Deneuve reads as a harmonious one.
This story about a rural retreat just an hour from Paris was originally published in France Magazine.
Founded in 1870 by Ernest Cognacq and Louise Jaÿ, la Samaritaine became an iconic Parisian department store in the years that followed. This architectural splendor combing Art Nouveau with Art Deco, closed in 2005, apparently due to safety reasons. Today, 16 years later, La Samaritaine’s doors reopen following a 500 million euro renovation by its new owners LVMH.
Days before its official opening, I was lucky to take a tour of this monumental building located near the Louvre Museum in the heart of Paris.
Following nearly 30 months of renovations which you can read more about in my article for Hemispheres, la Samaritaine will feature a department store, luxe 5-star hotel Cheval Blanc opening on September 7th, 96 social housing units, offices, and a crèche. Let’s not forget 10 dining spots including haute cuisine and light bites.
Considered the smallest department store and the largest concept store, la Samaritaine covers 20,000 square meters. 600 brands will be featured, with 50 of them exclusively French.
What makes a visit to this luxurious shopping center so unique, is that you can stay for hours if not days, enjoying breathtaking views of Paris from within.
The crème de la crème of champagne brands and all natural beauty brands will also be available. Part of the hedonistic escape includes a heavenly spa by Cinq Monde.
Along with the Fondation Louis Vuitton, la Samaritaine is by all accounts one of the largest architectural projects in Europe. Opening hours are daily from 10 am to 8 pm and there’s barely a line to enter if you’re lucky.
In need of a bucolic break from Paris, we recently hopped on a 2-hour train to Bordeaux en route to the vineyards of Saint-Émilion. Specifically into the Premier Grand Cru world of Château Troplong Mondot.
Home became the cozy two-bedroom Vineyard House, one of the three accommodation options at Château Troplong Mondot, and best described as ‘campagne chic’. Their new 5-bedroom château, an ideal setting for friends and family, can be rented privately.
Surrounded by 43 hectares of vineyards (composed of 73% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon) we hopped in a vintage Land Rover to explore the property and discovered a fruit, vegetable, and herb garden, as well as roosting chickens.
The lush landscape at Château Troplong Mondot invited us into a slow and sustainable life, and we welcomed every invigorating moment.
Meals paired with Troplong Mondot wines were enjoyed at the newly renovated restaurant Les Belles Perdrix, helmed by chef David Charrier. Every meal was a discovery in the creative cuisine of this talented chef, certain to be awarded another Michelin star.
What I found most impressive was that the exceptional Troplong Mondot wines were all produced sustainably. During our wine tasting we learned more about Saint-Émilion wines, some of the best in France, and also had a chance to taste the latest harvest.
Specially trained horses plow the fields on this hilltop land, the highest in Saint-Émilion. It’s the incomparable terroir that aids in producing these award-winning wines.
The Medieval and undeniably charming town of Saint-Émilion looms in the distance, just 20-minutes by foot from Château Troplong Mondot.
Mornings were spent winding our way through the paths of this scenic town, one of the most visited in France. We were privileged to have this UNESCO World Heritage Site all to ourselves.
Admiring vineyard-covered Saint-Émilion from above, we spotted Château Troplong Mondot off in the distance.
The time came to bid farewell to our home in the vineyards and set off to neighboring Montagne-Saint-Émilion.
Our first stop was to Château Corbin. This 4th generation estate is home to a pigeon house dating back to 1606.
Before returning to Bordeaux and boarding a train back to Paris, we drove past a stunning castle and couldn’t resist a visit. Château Saint-Georges proved a perfect last tasting in a wine region we will undoubtedly return to.
The moment I first met April Pett at a local Parisian cafe, I could feel her positive and magnetic energy, expressed through her approachable smile and sparkling eyes. We spoke passionately about Paris and it quickly became obvious that April was living her dream life, offering private guided tours of a city she loves deeply. It’s also her knowledge of Paris’s history, culture, and food that impressed me. April’s relationship with Paris is an intimate and intense one. And I advise anyone traveling to Paris to join April on one of her expert April in Paris tours. You can also follow her adventures on Facebook and Instagram. Meanwhile, how exactly did this Canadian linguist arrive to live her dream life in Paris? This is a story I’ll allow April to tell.
I first came to Paris during my high school career. I remember my first vision of the City of Light as I exited the métro at Place de la Concorde. My eyes grew wider and wider with bedazzlement as the busy city buzzed around me, the water from the Fountains of Seas and Rivers danced throughout the square, the gold atop the Luxor Obelisk shimmered brightly and the almighty Iron Lady stood high into the horizon. Never did I imagine that one day I would move to Paris and begin my life here!
Ever since I was just a child, I developed a knack for languages. My family is Italian, and as a child, much to my dismay, I attended Italian classes every Saturday morning in my hometown of Thorold, Ontario. (All I really wanted was to be like the other kids, watching cartoons with my dolls!) At the age of 9, I began studying French as well and from that moment on, I decided that when I grew up, I wanted to be a translator. I really loved studying languages and when the opportunity presented itself to visit Paris, France, I certainly seized it! In March 2002, I first set foot on Parisian soil and it was certainly love at first sight!
Naturally, I decided to pursue languages at Brock University, where I graduated with a degree in both French and Italian. When I learned about a study abroad program in France, I could barely contain my excitement. My parents, on the other hand, didn’t want to see their “baby” go. It took some convincing but they finally agreed and signed the paperwork. “This girl is going to La France!” I thought, and began daydreaming about all of the cheese and baguettes that I would consume!
Now one thing that I have learned over the years is that nothing just falls into your lap in France. Endless amounts of paperwork can easily pile up in front of your eyes, and the Visa application for the year abroad seemed quite tedious. That’s when my Nonna suggested that I obtain my Italian passport, this way I would be part of the EU, and then I could spend as much time as my heart desired in Europe! What a genius plan! After a couple of trips to the Italian Embassy in Toronto, I found myself with a shiny new passport, butterflies in my stomach, and a ticket to Europe!
As it turned out, the Brock University Italian program was also offering a summer study abroad program so when the day came, I boarded the plane with about a dozen other excited students to Italy to learn about Renaissance Art and la vita bella! That summer, I experienced the wonderful Italian culture, learned about the greatest Italian artists and gained 15 kilos from all of the pasta, pizza and gelato. With summer winding down, I l was plump, excited and ready for the next chapter of my adventure!
After a 19 hour journey of trains, planes and automobiles, I arrived at the Cité Universitaire in Perpignan. I am glad that the rest of the year went more smoothly than that first evening, after clobbering up two flights of stairs with two suitcases and plenty of other bags, only to realize that I was in the wrong residence building! I spent that year, honing my French skills, embracing the delectable French culture and making memories to last a lifetime. Leaving Perpignan was one of the hardest days in my young life, saying au revoir to my friends that had become family, to all of my favorite smelly cheeses, and especially to the country that I had called home for the past 10 months. But something in my heart told me that this wasn’t going to be the very end of my French love affair!
As the years went on, I had the opportunity to visit Paris from time to time and it always left the same feeling of love, romance, and enlightenment within. And in 2014, I decided to take the plunge and make it my home. At that time, I did not know if Paris was going to be my permanent home. And I certainly did not think that I was going to start my own tour company when I stepped foot back onto Parisian soil. In fact, I came to Paris to pursue my translation dream job. I just needed to brush up on my French first. In the meantime, I began working with an American tour company and that’s when it hit me like a ton of bricks…During my university career, I worked in the tourism bureau in my hometown of Thorold, Ontario (which is right next to Niagara Falls!), I traveled the globe, I loved meeting new people and above all, I LOVED introducing guests from all corners of the planet to my adopted home, Paris! It only made sense to start my own company.
While I had the knowledge of Paris, there were so many aspects of starting a company that I didn’t know. I sat and stared at a blank canvas. I had ideas, great ones at that, but how to put them all together to create an experience that people would love and, how to even find these people?! And that’s when it began. The magic. People from all different walks of my life started to reach out to help with web design, graphic design, social media, introductions to potential business partners and collaborators. The interest, encouragement and willingness to help April in Paris Tours get off the ground was really overwhelming and heartfelt. Today, with thousands of tours under my belt, a wonderful network of business partners and guides, a handful of awards including the Best Tour Company in Paris by the Luxury Tour Guide and Expatriates Magazine as well as the perfect 5-star review rating on TripAdvisor, I truly feel blessed to have followed the path in life that brought me here, to Paris, the City of Light, the City of Love and the city where dreams do come true!
While the past year has been a challenge for the tourism sector worldwide, I have decided to focus on the positive! It has provided opportunities for growth, development, innovation and some R&R. During the pandemic, I have been working on new tour ideas for when it is safe for all to travel again, and once borders open, I will be waiting for tourists from around the globe with open arms! In the meantime, I have launched a Virtual Tour, which is perfect for anyone missing the bistros, baguettes and off the beaten paths of Paris!
It’s well over a year into this global pandemic and these lockdown days, it often feels like we’re back where we started, at least here in Paris. Last April I shared scenes of a nearly empty Paris. I also wrote about what Paris is like without tourists for Fodor’s. These days, with the sun shining brightly and the promise of summer in the air, the city is far from empty and this lockdown (our third) is far from strict. Notes are not necessary and masks must be worn. We are free to roam up to 10 kilometers from home until 7 pm curfew beckons us back.
All along the quays, tourist boats lay idle, waiting for their turn to coast along the Seine, filled with eager onlookers hopping on and off to view the sights.
With schools closed in April, many locals have left the city for homes and home-schooling in the countryside.
Parks and gardens fill up with life during the weekends. Alcohol is no longer allowed to be served or drunk outside, attempting to limit the number of people gathering.
Restaurants and cafes remain closed since October, creating outdoor dining and picnics wherever possible. Terraces plan to reopen in mid-May.
With museums closed and now shops too, activities are limited. The French sport of Pétanque is often played in the gardens of the Palais Royal and along the Seine, reminding us of normal pre-pandemic days.
Most of all, simply sitting on a bench and watching the flowers in bloom, reading a book, or speaking with a good friend, is keeping us sane.
It’s impossible to predict how life in Paris will unravel in the months to follow. But I like to believe the city will reopen soon, both for the Parisians and ex-pats proud to call it home and for those who long to return.
