Ready to discover a taste of Japanese culture in the heart of Paris’ Haut Marais? What was once a quincaillerie, or hardware store now houses a newly opened cultural complex. OGATA presents a portal into the food, art, and design of Japan, brought to life by Tokyo-based architect, designer, restaurateur and chef Shinichiro Ogata.
Within OGATA, I was pleased to find a tea shop offering Japanese sweets, a ceremonial tea salon which I’ll certainly be back to try, a gallery featuring carefully curated art from tableware to furniture, a crafts store displaying delicately hand-crafted housewares, an intimate bar, and a gastronomic restaurant. Sake, anyone?
I took a seat at the bar of the second-floor restaurant and prepared to feast on a modern Japanese meal helmed by chef Kazuki Watanabe. Beginning with a bento box, every sweet and savory dish brought me back to memories of dining in Japan. The multi-course meal ended sweetly with matcha blanc-manger.
I knew I’d return for dinner and the traditional Japanese tea ceremony dating back to ninth-century Japan.
The first time I visited Madrid was many years ago during the university years. I decided it was time to return to the Spanish capital. On this sojourn, rather than solely play tourist, I wanted to discover the many eclectic neighborhoods and the local food scene.
SLEEP: Our journey began at Bless Hotel Madrid in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. This design-savvy boutique hotel recently celebrated its first birthday. From this location nearby to El Retiro Park we could explore much of Madrid by foot or hop on a metro. Here too we dined at one of the culinary capital’s most gourmet addresses, Michelin-starred chef Martín Berasateguis restaurant, Etxeko. Meaning “at home” in Basque, the tasting menu was a heavenly gastronomic experience from both land and sea.
EAT: Fifteen minutes away by foot we explored the colorful Chueca neighborhood, quick to become a favorite district. San Antón Market, a three three-floor food hall offers dozens of dining options, both Spanish and international, along with a rooftop bar. Modern tapas bar Baco y Beto proved a favorite dinner spot. Closer to the hotel, La Maruca restaurant was another stellar address.
SHOP (AND EAT): On Sundays, El Rastro flea market takes over the historic La Latina neighborhood. Filled with local artisans and vintage stalls, an entire afternoon can be devoted to treasure hunting. In between shopping, some of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars entice with their simple offerings. Casa Amadeo is famous for their escargot, while Bar Santurce specializes in freshly grilled sardines. A more gourmet tapas experience was enjoyed at restaurant Juana La Loca.
VISIT: Our tour of Madrid’s most famous sights took us from Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square reconstructed in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva and unchanged since, to the Royal Palace, home to centuries-old collections of paintings, furniture, and armor. Nearby landmark Teatro Real of Madrid was once a leading theater in Europe. Next time we’ll book tickets to the opera.
WATCH: In the country where flamenco originated, we set our sights on a lively street performance in an inviting city square. For a more authentic experience, Corral de la Morería dating back to 1956 is the oldest locale in Madrid. Another notable address is Torres Bermejas.
With only a few days to bask in the culture of Madrid, there’s much more left to see and to taste. We’ll be back!
A self-professed chocoholic who rarely says no to dark chocolate, especially if it’s filled with praline, I was thrilled to discover the art of making this decadent sweet treat, first introduced to France in 1615, as a gift to Louis XIII from his Spanish princess. I was eager to learn the tricks of the trade from friend and chocolate connoisseur Lisa Allen of Tarts & Truffles. Lisa’s chocolate-making workshops take place at one of my favorite independent chocolate shops, Edwart Chocolatier near the Louvre.
The workshop began with Lisa teaching us how hazelnut praline is made. With the smell alone, I was in heaven.
The next step on this chocolate journey was to melt the chocolate and prepare it to meet with its praline center.
I must say that while Lisa’s adept hands make ‘tempering’ the chocolate look easy, it’s a process! What resulted from this sweet experience were the most divine truffles, covered in coconut flakes or my personal favorite, topped with almonds. The best part of all was feasting on these homemade creations. We also tasted Edwart’s exquisite array of chocolates in flavors ranging from Corsican lemon to curry. Ask to try their single origins chocolate too, from Venezuela and Papua New Guinea.
If you’re on the market for chocolate in Paris, which you certainly should be, here’s my list of favorite chocolate shops. Or simply contact Lisa and she’ll give you an expert chocolate tour.
The beginning of the new year, and the start of a new decade, found us in Palermo. This was our third trip to Sicily, each one leaving us more enchanted with this Italian island. Rich in both history and breathtaking landscapes, not to mention the food, Sicily is easy to fall in love with. Before heading to the capital city, we stopped for lunch in the small town of Mazara del Vallo followed by Sciacca where we settled for a few days.
This fishing port town known for its ceramics proved to be a little gem with a lot of potential. Home was the most charming B&B overlooking the port. Restaurant Stranizze, also a winery, proved a top dining spot.
Close by to Sciacca we visited a limestone cliff that took the appearance of stairs. Of course, we climbed up.
The next stop was nearby to Sicily’s most famous Greek ruins, the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. This awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest archaeological site in the world, includes the remains of seven temples dating back to the 5th-century BC.
It was nearing New Year’s Eve and time to head to our main and final destination, the city of Palermo. While we have explored much of the island from Ortigia to Taormina and Trapani to Cefalù to Ragusa (and back to Ortigia), we had yet to discover Palermo, home to the famous cathedral, an architectural marvel from medieval Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque.
SLEEP: We settled into Eurostars Centrale Palace, a historic palace in the city center, just steps away from Piazza Pretoria and within walking distance to most of Palermo’s attractions. New Year’s Eve dinner was spent at another regal address, the palatial home of Guiseppi Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. 18th-century Butera 28 in the beautiful Kalsa neighborhood also offers apartments for rent.
EAT: With so many fine dining options in Palermo, we chose wisely, and were not disappointed. Included in our top dining experiences is Caponata, helmed by young chef Giuliano Blasi who will leave you impressed by his experimental cuisine whose preparation you can observe via the open kitchen. Another noteworthy address is Osteria Ballarò where you can feast on house specialties or opt for street food including famous panelle, or chickpea fritters. For the most authentic taste of the latter, head to Dainotti at the Capo market.
VISIT: With churches and palaces on nearly every corner in Palermo, there’s a lot of see. Worthy of a visit are Abatellis Palace, featuring the largest collection of Romanesque to Baroque artwork in Sicily, and the imposing Butera Palace. We also spent an afternoon discovering the Baroque-style Church of Saint Catherine, also a living monastery to a group of nuns until 2014. Along with stunning views from the church’s rooftop, head to the ground floor bakery to indulge in original sweet recipes, “I segreti del Chiostro” (The secrets of the cloister). The cannoli is the best I’ve ever tasted! For a cassata, one of the best bakery’s is Pasticceria Costa.
To discover Palermo with an expert guide, contact Elisabetta Gulizzi who gave us an in-depth tour of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, a majestic Baroque church in the midst of the Capo market. With so much more to see, visit, and taste, Palermo hasn’t seen the last of us yet.
If you’re lucky enough to visit Paris this holiday season, there are several not to miss events that I’m sure you’ll enjoy as much as I did. The Christmas tree at Galeries Lafayette outdoes itself every year. It’s a majestic vision from every angle. Head to the 3rd floor for a close-up view from the Glasswalk, a glass platform 9-meters long and 16 meters high! For a bird’s-eye view of Paris, head up to the rooftop of this historic department where you can go ice-skating until December 31st. Read more, here. In case you miss this ice-skating op, discover the largest ice-skating rink in the world is at Le Grand Palais until January 8th!
BHV MARAIS has also put on a holiday show this year, with its first every Alsatian Market serving specialties every day until December 24th. Take a tour with me in the video below and read more about it, here.
To taste some of the best pastries and chocolat chaud in the French capital, make your way to Place Vendôme where Ritz Paris’s pastry chef François Perret (recently named the best in the world) is baking up sweet treats at their Christmas Chalet. Read more about it, here.
For a thrilling night that will leave you dancing and singing your way home, head to Théâtre du Châtelet which just reopened for a spectacular performance of An American in Paris, in English until January 1st. Read more about this musical here, and order your tickets through Theatre in Paris.
I haven’t become this smitten with a city in a long time. As soon as we arrived in Bath, I knew there was something uniquely ethereal about this, the largest city in the county of Somerset, just 12 miles from Bristol. Bath became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 due to its Roman history and famous Roman Baths, which I couldn’t wait to discover. But first, it was time to explore the city and get lost in its historic and hilly maze.
SLEEP: Our home in Bath was at the most quirky luxurious address in town. A Georgian townhouse, No 15 Great Pulteney hotel charmed at every cozy corner, from our well-appointed room to The Sitting Room and Bar 15 where we imbibed on craft cocktails, to The Dispensary, a design haven serving up a decadent seasonal menu. It was here too where one of Bath’s famous Sunday lunches is served, easily becoming an all-day affair. Spa 15 was an experience alone worthy of a stay at No 15 Great Pulteney. My treatment room was covered in curious sock art and the hot tub provided the perfect post-massage bliss.
EAT: The search of a gastropub led us to The Chequers where I happily dined on a hearty plate of fish and chips. For the next feast on this traditional dish, we’ll head straight to The Scallop Shell which has been voted the best in the UK. On Saturday, we headed to the Bath Farmers’ Market set in Green Park Station where local food producers sold freshly baked goods and produce from the Somerset countryside.
DRINK: Tipped off by a local, the nocturnal hours found us at The Dark Horse. This reservation-only cocktail bar is both moody and melodic, with dark wood interiors and a menu of bespoke cocktails to choose from.
We could have easily spent every day exploring this historic city and attempting to learn its many secrets. But there were Roman Baths to discover.
VISIT: Overlooking the Bath Abbey, the Roman Baths are a sight to behold. After being invaded by the Romans in 43AD, this religious spa complex was constructed by 75AD, referred to as Aquae Sulis, “the waters of Sulis”.
People from all over came to bathe in this religious spa and worship at the temple, believing that Goddess Sulis Minerva possessed curative powers. Each wing of this massive complex contained hammams, hot and cold dipping pools and relaxation rooms. Still today the city’s thermal springs rise and the Baths still flow with natural hot water. We even took a sip.
Next door to the bathing complex, the museum includes a gilt bronze head of the Goddess Sulis Minerva and other Roman artefacts.
When it came time to bid farewell to Bath, we made a vow to soon return to this city that captured our hearts.
