village in color

April 23, 2012

My last visit to Vernazza was on a hike just a month prior to the flooding. I was afraid of what I would find on my recent return. This village, the favorite of Rick Steves, was devastated, it’s famously picturesque port completely buried. Just recently life has returned to Vernazza, still not nearly back to it’s glory. Much rebuilding remains in the months ahead.

What I was most pleasantly surprised to find were the painted doors. On January 6th, 50 artists were invited to paint one of the many boarded up doors, a mission called “Un Arcobaleno di Solidarietà per Vernazza” — A Rainbow of Solidarity for Vernazza. To bring hope back to this shattered village. In the spirit of community, and art.

A last look from above as the sun set through the clouds, Monterosso far off in the distance. A view that could leave you breathless. And certain that this village will rise again.

For more on aid and progress of Vernazza click here.

Barca by night

January 13, 2012

Walking around Barcelona during the day is an experience in architecture, namely Gaudí, but by night the city takes on quite a different persona, particularly in the neighborhoods we chose to explore, El Born and Barrio Gotico. Bars and shops would close in the night (as well as much of the early afternoon) and the streets were filled with metal doors often advertising what lies on the other side. It felt as though we were walking through an outdoor gallery only visible to the night crawlers.

Just the right mix of shabby and chic.

Would I buy fruits and vegetables here?

I can only imagine what’s for sale behind these doors…

Pasta anyone?

My adventurous side is intrigued.

Next time I will return during open hours to discover the truth behind these doors.

New Year with Gaudí

January 7, 2012

Following a memorable traditional family Christmas spent on the Italian Riviera between Monterosso and Levanto, it was time for a new adventure. I had last been to Spain many university years ago and was eager to become reacquainted with Barcelona. Almost immediately we were greeted by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, considered by some a genius and by others a lunatic. Perhaps a mix of the two? For those 6 days we experienced Love in the City of Gaudí.

Our first stop was Casa Batlló (right), a modernist house appropriately called the ‘house of bones’.

I was mesmerized by the colors and effects, each detail fitting together creating a masterpiece.

The roof of tiled chimneys was particularly impressive. I was intriqued with the mind of this genius.

Next stop was majestic cathedral Sagrada Família, the Nativity facade by Gaudí began in 1882.

The Passion facade with controversial statues by Josep Subirachs sculpted from 1986-2006.

Intricate ceiling of the cathedral whose completion is planned by 2040, 10 towers still to be built.

Our self-guided tour, along with many others, continued to Park Güell, a garden city project.

We were first greeted by the iconic dragon.

A lone violinist accompanied by a washerwoman amidst the living stones.

It was here where Gaudí lived his last years, within this failed urban development turned park.

Our last stop was the statuesque Casa Milà, also known as La Pedrera.

It was with the silent guardians on the rooftop that I became enamored.

The whisper of these chimneys confirmed that I would soon return.

next stop: Impressionism

November 12, 2011

My most venerated Paris museum was once a railway station, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Since then it was abandoned and later brought back to life 25 years ago, housing the largest Impressionist collection in the world. Not to mention my favorites, the Post-Impressionists.

I have wandered the halls of the Musée d’Orsay many a time, lost amidst it’s history both structural and that which decorates it’s walls. Though in the last year and a half, due to major renovations, much of this grand edifice was closed to the public, it’s space and artwork hidden from view.

To celebrate it’s recent unveiling, I decided to take a proper tour not only of the Orsay’s new galleries but also of it’s masterpieces. It was a Context Paris docent that enlightened me over an almost four hour long tour beginning in 1848 with Corot and the Barbizon School and ending in 1914 with Degas, Van Gogh, Cézanne and Monet, among others. I had briefly studied art history in the past, and tried to enlighten myself whenever possible, but an intimate tour with many of my most admired artists, where each of my questions was answered in depth and at length, THIS is art history heaven! Following the tour, I sat for some time in the sunlit space, thoughtful of all many stories I had been told, while gazing into the distance, grateful that this day at the Orsay was one of my own.

treasure hunting

November 8, 2011

The Louvre. The grandest museum in the world, and certainly the most intimidating. I tend to enter it’s glass pyramid on rare occasion only with a visitor in town. (Mona Lisa, Venus and I have shared more than enough moments through the years.) This all changed however, when my friend Daisy, an ex-New Yorker with a background in art history, invited me on a Treasure Hunt at the Louvre.

An activity she cleverly invented as a sort of art game, where people team up and set off to run wild amidst this grand corridors in search of hidden treasures. Where better (and more challenging) than the Louvre!

My Italian and I took part in these artful antics many months ago, with a dozen or so other teams. I found myself relying on mere luck to find our select masterpieces, most of which where not found. My strategic Italian had devised a plan but by the time we wrapped out heads around the museum’s floorplan, sands of the hourglass were spent. Thankfully I’m not too sore of a loser, as we all met to tally up the points an a neighborhood cafe. The evening resulted in both a lesson in art history and teamwork, and we all left in good spirits.

I have been waiting for the next THATLou event, and alas, it has arrived! Daisy is planning a treasure hunt for Friday November 18th. Sign up by the 11th, bring your competitive side and a partner, and prepare for a night of hunting for some of the grandest treasures to behold. If you can find them.

For details and to sign up contact Daisy: daisydeplume@gmail.com. Many more events in 2012…

outside {art}

November 3, 2011

During the recent days of FIAC, my Italian and I spent a glorious Sunday in the Tuileries Garden beneath the early Autumn sun, surrounded on all sides by art. This the outside feature of the contemporary art show. Was it the bright light or the unique sculptures that captured our eye? Perhaps a mix of the two. Enjoy the tour amidst a setting worthy itself of admiring.