36 Hours in Antwerp

Recently I took a trip to Antwerp, a city I had never properly visited. A quick stop for chocolate en route from Holland many years ago doesn’t really count, does it? I hadn’t been back to Belgium since our weekend in Bruges and was curious to discover this city dating back to the Middle Ages that I knew little about. So many gems to share in food and fashion, in addition to the diamonds Antwerp is famous for.

SLEEP : Minutes away from Antwerp’s Central Station, a stunning architectural marvel that some consider the most beautiful train station in the world, sits Hotel Indigo, the ideal refuge in the center of the city.

EAT : Aside from moules-frites (mussels with fries) and waffles, Belgium is not known for its food. I did however, discover a few restaurants worth sharing. Historically a horse stable, De Peerdestal is a charming spot for good meat and fish. For a French meal in grand style with a side of live piano music, head to Bourla. Here I tasted classic chicken fricassee coupled with local Belgian beer, of course. As for the Belgian specialty of chocolate, my favorite shop is Mary, dating back to 1919.

DRINK : Stocking the largest supply of coffee beans in the world, you’ll definitely find a good brew. My favorite, and where they roast their own beans, is Normo. For coffee, cake or a stellar sandwich, head to Cafématic.

DO : Antwerp boasts one of the oldest and most impressive animal parks in the world. Over 5,000 animals of 950 different species, including polar bears and Siberian tigers, are cared for at the Antwerp Zoo. For an art fix, head to 17th-century Rubens House, filled with masterpieces by Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. If music is your passion, book a performance at the Antwerp Concert Hall (Stadt Schouwburg), decorated with statues of the world’s greatest composers and musicians.

SHOP : The Antwerp Six, including Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, put this city on the fashion map in the 1980’s. To pick up wares from these Belgian greats as well as new and established Scandinavian and international designers, head directly to consignment shop Rosier 41. To discover local and artisanal designers, Superet is the spot. A top gift shop carrying unique home accessories and handmade jewelry is Mme Bovary.

EXTRA : One last stop during your visit to Antwerp is design centric Graanmarkt 13, a restaurant, concept shop and apartment, all in one.

Venice of the North

Bruges, or Brugge as the locals call it, is considered Venice of the North. Where better to sneak away for a surprise romantic weekend with my Italian? I secretly made all the arrangements months in advance, and with only a few minor obstacles, just as the leaves were changing into spectacular shades of browns and reds, and the chill of winter lingered in the air, we boarded the train. A short 2-hour ride to discover this UNESCO World Heritage city in Belgium’s Flemish Northwest.

IMG_6174Home was a welcoming regal 15th Century Palace, once the residence of the Burgundian aristocracy.

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Bruges greeted us with a cloudy sky and the promise of rain, setting the mood as explorations began.

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We were both struck with the city’s architecture. Elegant brick buildings set upon tranquil canals.

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We did our best to avoid the crowds and chose any side streets we could find, following the sun.

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To get a better look at the city from above, we climbed the 366 steps of the historic Belfry Tower.

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A view to savour as the ancient clock tower chimed all around us.

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We also enjoyed an impressive view from the rooftop of the last remaining brewery, De Halve Maan.

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What’s a trip to Belgium without a chocolate tasting? After trying quite a few, I favored Dumon.

IMG_3848Having taken quite a few weekend escapes since living in Paris, Bruges was one of my favorites. It’s inhabitants friendly, it’s range of dining options impressive (In’t Nieuw Museum is a must for a real local experience) and the scenery spectacular. There are quite a few museums and galleries too, satisfying all the senses. Weekend in Bruges, a success!

Brussels

From Luxembourg I took the train to Brussels, headquarters of most of the European Union’s institutions. Both culinarily and culturally speaking, it was really the chocolate that I was eager to ingest, as well as the traditional fare of waffles, mussels and beer. Belgians possess quite a savory palate! Tomek who lives in this frenetic city, joined me in a feast of delectable moules. I think I have had my fix!