Biking in Burgundy

Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.

The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.

We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.

Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.

The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.

Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.

Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.

The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.

Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.

Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.

Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.

a taste of Beaune

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Last spring I discovered Dijon and became enamored with the Burgundy region. This year it was time to visit the smaller town of Beaune. Our first stop was Hotel Le Cep, a historic mansion where King Louis XIV once slept. This family run 4-star hotel boasts 16th century courtyards with rooms and suites decorated in endless charm. My Italian and I immediately felt at home as we were warmly welcomed by gracious owner Jean-Claude Bernard, who spoke of his family hotel’s rich history. Just outside Le Cep’s doors, Beaune awaited to be explored. Where to go first? We headed directly to the Tourism Office to consult the experts.

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Our main objective being to discover and taste the local specialties, we headed straight to the prestigious wine cellars of Bouchard Père & Fils, once the ancient castle of Beaune. Touring their cave, we found select wines aged over 100 years! Needless to say, those we tasted were quite a bit younger. Here began a weekend of tasting some of the best wines in France.

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Saturday morning the sun shone brightly and we met our new neighbors at the local market. I’ve been to many markets all over the country, but this one appeared to be straight out of a film set. Were we the extras?

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Our next stop was mustard factory Fallot, the last independent family mustard mill in Burgundy. We were met by Marc Désarménien whose family had started producing Fallot mustard in 1840. The mustard making process is a fascinating one as we learned, being led through the factory, chewing on mustard seeds along the way. Afterwards, tasting the dozens of flavors of Fallot mustard was an experience! My favorites being the classic grainy variety with white wine, followed by walnut, and honey and fig.

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Wine and mustard aren’t the only gastronomic delicacies that have put Beaune on the map. This town too is a haven for haute cuisine. Where did we choose among the many options? Here’s my short list:

La Bussionière: Charming husband and wife run restaurant that recently moved into the center of Beaune. Selection of fresh local produce, creating delicious regional dishes.

Loiseau des Vignes: One of highly regarded Loiseau family restaurants, awarded a Michelin star in 2010 under chef Mourad Haddouche, adjacent to Hotel Le Cep. A gastronomic paradise, with 70 wines served by the glass.

Le P’tit Paradis: An intimate restaurant in the heart of the town for over 20 years, where seasonal tastes mingle with inventive dishes. Outdoor terrace for spring and summer dining.

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When not wine tasting or dining, we were educating ourselves to the history of Beaune. It was in a walking tour with history buff and wine expert Kim Gagné that we learned the most. She brought us to the famous Hospices de Beaune, also called Hôtel-Dieu. Built in the 15th century and once a hospital mainly for the poor, it’s now a museum. Every November, an important charity wine auction is held within this historic building.

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Before heading back to Paris, we decided a tour of the vineyards would prove the best lesson of all in wine culture. Our lovely guide Brigitte from Vineatours picked us up at Le Cep and into the villages and vineyards we drove, passing Pommard and Volnay along the way. We stopped at a private vineyard and tasted a small production of premier and grand cru, increasing our home collection of Bourgogne wines.

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This charming town had won my heart. Filled with the sensations of Beaune, and plenty of mustard and wine, we boarded the train back to Paris, a quick 2 hour ride. Next time we vowed, we’ll return for a biking tour.