This year I finally made it to Strasbourg for a glimpse at this city that really knows how to dress up for the holidays. A stroll through Strasbourg’s Christmas markets (open from November 26th to December 26th) invites into the holiday spirit of the city. The oldest in France and one of the first in Europe, these markets date back to 1570. With over 300 merchants spread throughout the city center, stalls line the famous Strasbourg Cathedral where chiming bells mingle with Christmas tunes. The soundtrack alone sets a holiday mood.
Each of the thirteen markets – scattered along the river and filling city squares – reveals its own charm, with limitless arrays of gifts and goodies. Along with festive decorations that bring a touch of Strasbourg home, discover artisanal pottery and locally crafted jewelry, handmade toys and knitwear for children, and even scented candles and beauty products.
Whether simply inhaling the sights and sounds of Christmas in the Alsace or shopping for stocking stuffers, take a petite pause to taste all the delicacies that Strasbourg is best known for. Tarte flambée, anyone?
Having only visited Saint-Tropez off-season during my year-long travels, I was eager to discover this scenic coastal town on the French Riviera before it shut down for the winter. I became further intrigued after writing a story about it for Fodor’s Travel, detailing exactly how Saint-Tropez became the hotspot it is today. This past September, we packed our bags, hopped on the train, and headed south.
Our first stop was a room with a view overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez at Château de La Messardière. I share more about this dream property, here.
After lounging by the pool and indulging in the landscape’s natural beauty, with a stop at Château de LaMessardière’s Jardin Tropézina beach club, we headed back down the hill. Next stop, the town of Saint-Tropez.
To dive into the history of Saint-Tropez, we stayed at Hotel Byblos dating back to 1967. Its nightclub Les Caves du Roy was the place to be. Notable figures including Grace Kelly, Prince Charles, Romy Schneider, Lauren Bacall, Paloma Picasso, Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Leonardo DiCaprio and Mick Jagger have passed through the doors. Little has changed in recent years at this timeless hotel that even includes a Missoni suite.
Afternoons were spend wandering the historic town of Saint-Tropez, lost in the maze of streets while restaurants and galleries awaited evening patrons.
Just in time for our 10th wedding anniversary this past June, I was assigned a very regal assignment for Condé Nast Traveller. This included a three-day stay at brand new hotel Le Grand Contrôle, set within the grounds of Château de Versailles. WHAT A DREAM! I was thrilled to play queen for a day, or three. With my king by my side.
Immediately upon passing through the doors of Le Grand Contrôle, you feel as though you’ve entered into another era. One in which it’s easy to feel underdressed with the staff buttoned up in stately uniforms.
Upon arriving, our personal butler settled us into our room, or shall I say lavish suite, named after the Necker family. He was a finance minister for Louis XVI and his wife helped to establish a children’s hospital in Paris.
After discovering the desk I decided this would be where I’d write my memoirs. With a feather plume, of course.
The heavenly view from the bathroom looked directly onto Château de Versailles. Even from my morning bath.
The rest of the antique-filled hotel proved just as well-appointed as our suite. From the game room to the downstairs lounge to the dining salons. And might I add that dinner set quite a theatrical stage!
The privilege of staying at Le Grand Contrôle, in addition to feeling like part of the royal court and dining at the helm of Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, is an after-hours guided tour of Château de Versailles.
One of the most magical moments, other than a behind-the-scenes look at the Queen’s Chambers, was walking through an empty Hall of Mirrors. The perfect photo op! It was our wedding anniversary, after all.
Mornings at Le Grand Contrôle included a private guided tour of the Grand Trianon, the Petit Trianon, or the Queen’s Hamlet. Following each visit, I was beginning to understand Marie Antoinette on a much deeper level.
The stay at Le Grand Contrôle felt like living in the most regal period in French history. From a picnic on the grounds of Versailles to a candlelit dinner in our chambers. And let’s not forget the subterranean spa. Read all about my experience in the September issue of Condé Nast Traveller, October issue of CN Traveler US, or online.
In need of a bucolic break from Paris, we recently hopped on a 2-hour train to Bordeaux en route to the vineyards of Saint-Émilion. Specifically into the Premier Grand Cru world of Château Troplong Mondot.
Home became the cozy two-bedroom Vineyard House, one of the three accommodation options at Château Troplong Mondot, and best described as ‘campagne chic’. Their new 5-bedroom château, an ideal setting for friends and family, can be rented privately.
Surrounded by 43 hectares of vineyards (composed of 73% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon) we hopped in a vintage Land Rover to explore the property and discovered a fruit, vegetable, and herb garden, as well as roosting chickens.
The lush landscape at Château Troplong Mondot invited us into a slow and sustainable life, and we welcomed every invigorating moment.
Meals paired with Troplong Mondot wines were enjoyed at the newly renovated restaurant Les Belles Perdrix, helmed by chef David Charrier. Every meal was a discovery in the creative cuisine of this talented chef, certain to be awarded another Michelin star.
What I found most impressive was that the exceptional Troplong Mondot wines were all produced sustainably. During our wine tasting we learned more about Saint-Émilion wines, some of the best in France, and also had a chance to taste the latest harvest.
Specially trained horses plow the fields on this hilltop land, the highest in Saint-Émilion. It’s the incomparable terroir that aids in producing these award-winning wines.
The Medieval and undeniably charming town of Saint-Émilion looms in the distance, just 20-minutes by foot from Château Troplong Mondot.
Mornings were spent winding our way through the paths of this scenic town, one of the most visited in France. We were privileged to have this UNESCO World Heritage Site all to ourselves.
Admiring vineyard-covered Saint-Émilion from above, we spotted Château Troplong Mondot off in the distance.
The time came to bid farewell to our home in the vineyards and set off to neighboring Montagne-Saint-Émilion.
Our first stop was to Château Corbin. This 4th generation estate is home to a pigeon house dating back to 1606.
Before returning to Bordeaux and boarding a train back to Paris, we drove past a stunning castle and couldn’t resist a visit. Château Saint-Georges proved a perfect last tasting in a wine region we will undoubtedly return to.
The beauty of France lies not only in its diverse regions but in the charm and character of its diversity. Having explored many of France’s landscapes, from Normandy to the Côte d’Azur to the Basque, historically rich Alsace remained a mystery. Eager to discover this region, we boarded a train direction east. In just over three hours we made our way to the small village of Saint-Hippolyte, the perfect spot from which to immerse ourselves in the intimacy of the Alsace region. I had long dreamt of visiting this region, famous for its half-timbered houses and where Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc are among the notable white wines produced.
We settled into regal Hotel Val Vignes, the former castle of the Dukes of Lorraine turned religious college, now a hotel where retired Marists continue to reside. From our window, we had a bird’s eye view of Saint-Hippolyte, along with the bicycles that would take us on our journey.
Following a decadent dinner at Val Vignes during which we tasted local wines and produce, we fell asleep to the sounds of silence. The following morning we took to the winding vine-filled paths leading to picture-perfect villages. While the legendary Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometers long, we only planned to bike a fraction of it.
Our first stop was a short 3.4 kilometers away to Bergheim, a fortified town that quickly won both our hearts.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent weaving our way along the bike paths, occasionally stopping to taste the nearly ripe harvest. We ended the bike tour in Ribeauvillé for a proper tasting of Alsatian wines.
The following day we ambitiously biked 20 kilometers along the wine route to Kaysersburg, well known for its authentic character and charm. We were completely smitten and spent the afternoon becoming acquainted with the town’s well-preserved 15th-century towers, bridge, and ramparts.
Being in no rush to return home to Saint-Hippolyte, we stopped at the gem that is Kientzheim, vowing to return.
We took the long road back to Saint-Hippolyte, Hotel Val Vignes standing tall beyond the stretch of vineyards. This weekend sejour was dedicated to the villages of Alsace. Our next visit to the region will include the medieval Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg in the Vosges mountains just west of Sélestat. We’ll also make a stop at La Montagne des Singes or Monkey Mountain, home to over 200 Barbary macaques roaming free in 60 acres of forest. Next time, we’ll plan to drive.
Following our love affair with the vibrant flower-filled villages, we made our way to Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region. Formally the seat of the European Parliament, we quickly noticed how, much like the entire region, the city’s architecture perfectly blended German and French influences. I was left in awe!
With a stop to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg and a walk around the city followed by a heavenly meal of tarte flambée known locally as Flammekueche, we hopped aboard a train back to Paris, fully satiated with Alsatian memories.
Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.
The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.
We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.
Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.
The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.
Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.
Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.
The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.
Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.
Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.
Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.
