The beauty of France lies not only in its diverse regions but in the charm and character of its diversity. Having explored many of France’s landscapes, from Normandy to the Côte d’Azur to the Basque, historically rich Alsace remained a mystery. Eager to discover this region, we boarded a train direction east. In just over three hours we made our way to the small village of Saint-Hippolyte, the perfect spot from which to immerse ourselves in the intimacy of the Alsace region. I had long dreamt of visiting this region, famous for its half-timbered houses and where Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc are among the notable white wines produced.
We settled into regal Hotel Val Vignes, the former castle of the Dukes of Lorraine turned religious college, now a hotel where retired Marists continue to reside. From our window, we had a bird’s eye view of Saint-Hippolyte, along with the bicycles that would take us on our journey.
Following a decadent dinner at Val Vignes during which we tasted local wines and produce, we fell asleep to the sounds of silence. The following morning we took to the winding vine-filled paths leading to picture-perfect villages. While the legendary Alsace Wine Route is 170 kilometers long, we only planned to bike a fraction of it.
Our first stop was a short 3.4 kilometers away to Bergheim, a fortified town that quickly won both our hearts.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent weaving our way along the bike paths, occasionally stopping to taste the nearly ripe harvest. We ended the bike tour in Ribeauvillé for a proper tasting of Alsatian wines.
The following day we ambitiously biked 20 kilometers along the wine route to Kaysersburg, well known for its authentic character and charm. We were completely smitten and spent the afternoon becoming acquainted with the town’s well-preserved 15th-century towers, bridge, and ramparts.
Being in no rush to return home to Saint-Hippolyte, we stopped at the gem that is Kientzheim, vowing to return.
We took the long road back to Saint-Hippolyte, Hotel Val Vignes standing tall beyond the stretch of vineyards. This weekend sejour was dedicated to the villages of Alsace. Our next visit to the region will include the medieval Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg in the Vosges mountains just west of Sélestat. We’ll also make a stop at La Montagne des Singes or Monkey Mountain, home to over 200 Barbary macaques roaming free in 60 acres of forest. Next time, we’ll plan to drive.
Following our love affair with the vibrant flower-filled villages, we made our way to Strasbourg, the capital city of the Alsace region. Formally the seat of the European Parliament, we quickly noticed how, much like the entire region, the city’s architecture perfectly blended German and French influences. I was left in awe!
With a stop to the famous Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg and a walk around the city followed by a heavenly meal of tarte flambée known locally as Flammekueche, we hopped aboard a train back to Paris, fully satiated with Alsatian memories.
