Greece Part Four: Santorini

Santorini is an island close to my heart. It was here on the caldera in the alluring village of Oia where my Italian proposed and where we began our Greek island-hopping honeymoon almost ten years ago. This visit found us happily secluded in the more intimate cliffside village of Imerovigli.

Home became the heavenly boutique cave hotel Iconic Santorini. Our room on the edge of the cliff looked out over the azure waters of the Aegean far below. The setting of a dream!

We quickly settled into our luxurious room with a view, sinking into our private jacuzzi followed by a holistic massage at the hotel spa. After all, holistic comes from the Greek word ‘holos’ meaning whole.

Our first idyllic day at Iconic Santorini ended at their Pergola Restaurant, dining on gourmet Greek dishes.

It was difficult to leave our newfound utopia to explore the rest of the island. With many fewer people than in Oia and neighboring Fira, Imerovigli proved the perfect village in which to avoid the crowds, even though this year was quieter than most. Having already visited much of Santorini on previous visits, we decided to enjoy the views, and the pool, instead.

Our sojourn at Iconic Santorini confirmed our deep affection for this uniquely mystical island, undoubtedly one of the most romantic destinations in the world.

Following a walk to the village of Fira just one kilometer from Imerovigli, it was time to leave Santorini, knowing that we would return. We always do.

Greece Part Three: Amorgos

My first trip to Amorgos, the setting of the famed film The Big Blue (Le Grand Bleu as it’s known in France), was during my very first journey to the Greek Islands ten years ago. Those who have been reading this blog from the beginning will remember that upon meeting my Italian, he promised me Greece. What he didn’t promise, and for what I’m most grateful, was that we would return again and again, each visit an intoxicating experience of a shared passion for Greece. Those who share this passion, know well the feeling.

While during our first visit to Amorgos we explored much of the island, there’s always more to discover. Opting to stay near the port of Aegiali, our first swim was at neighboring Levrossos beach, a quick boat ride away.

Once we acquired a set of wheels, rocky Mouros beach, only frequented by a select few, became paradise found.

Always eager to explore, we drove up to the Chora, one of the most picturesque villages of the Cyclades.

The seasonal Meltemi winds at full speed during our early evening in the Chora, we mingled with the locals and few tourists on the island, reminded of why late August and September are our favorite months to visit.

Dinner in the Chora found us at gourmet address Apospero, a reco by a Greek friend and photographer.

Another stellar address from the same friend, who we met with during both visits to Amorgos (leave it to the universe!), was hilltop restaurant Kamára above the small village of Potamos. From here we viewed the most spectacular sunset.

The setting for our very own Le Grande Bleu became Nikouria beach. The small uninhabited island of Nikouria boasting crystal clear waters as far as the eye could see was reachable only via boat from Agios Pavlos.

Before leaving Amorgos, we stopped at Katapola, the island’s other port where we feasted on freshly caught fish and local specialties. Maybe we’ll stay here next time, we thought. And yes, there definitely will be a next time. But now our sights were set on Santorini.

Greece Part Two: Astypalea

Every trip to Greece includes at least one new island discovery. This time we were eager to explore one of the most secluded of the Greek Islands, Astypalea. This would become my 15th Greek island and my Italian’s 20th, but who’s counting. An 8-hour ferry ride from Athen’s Port of Piraeus, this butterfly-shaped island sits in the Dodecanese but equally shares the characteristic charm of the Cyclades.

From the moment we arrived and made our way to the Chora, I was smitten with the island’s unaffected beauty.

Those equally familiar with the Greek islands know that each possesses a unique feeling and energy. The more acquainted we became with Asypalea, the more we both became enchanted with its laid back elegance.

The Chora in Astypalea revealed a series of tangled streets leading to hilltop bars and restaurants. Some of our favorites for local Greek food included Kouklas and Ageri in the Chora, Akrogiali near the port, and Almyra in Maltazena, where the fish was some of the freshest we tasted.

From the very top of Astypalea’s Chora sit the remains of a Venetian castle boasting majestic views of the sea.

Part of the adventure when arriving at a new island is deciding where to stay. With the vast number of hotels and apartments to rent, options are plentiful. Just above the port we first settled into the charming family-run Belvedere Studios, followed by secluded boutique hotel Studios Kilindra high up in the Chora where every morning breakfast was accompanied by roosters crowing.

Another unique feature of each Greek island is its beaches. Astypalea boasts some of the most crystal clear waters we’ve even swam in. Our first beach adventure was to the uninhabited island of Konoupia, which we reached via sail boat.

It was hill-lined Vatses, with its trendy taverna, no WiFi connection, and only a dozen thatched umbrellas, that became our favored Greek beach paradise.

The wildest and most difficult beach to reach, as the road was barely paved and proved a very bumpy ride, was Kaminakia, a reward upon arrival. Another treat was dining on family cooking at the single taverna.

Whenever we travel in Greece, I always take time to explore the artisanal side of each island and discover the local designers. I was thrilled to find beautiful boutique Art in Pelago, whose selection of jewelry, crafts and sleeping cats was one-of-a-kind.

While we could have easily spent another week dining in the inviting restaurants, mingling with the adopted locals and driving from one wild beach to another, it was time to return to island hopping.

Greece part one: Athens

I’ve never felt more grateful to arrive in Athens where we recently began our Greek island-hopping adventures. We chose late August knowing there would be fewer people around, both in Athens and in the islands. Plus, the meltemi (very strong winds) usually calm down by then. Taking care to follow all safety precautions, including wearing masks during the flight and in all public places, we settled into the NEW Hotel in the heart of Plaka.

Owned by world-renowned art collector Dakis Joannou and designed by the award-winning Campana brothers, NEW Hotel boasts not only 360-degree views of Athens (including the Acropolis, Lycabettus Hill, Syntagma Square, and the Parliament) but it houses an impressive art collection, including works by Jeff Koons, a personal friend of Joannou’s. (Koons also designed his yacht!) Surrounded by an impressive collection of over 2,000 art books on loan at the 7th floor Art Lounge, we feasted on an exceptional meal fusing Greek and international cuisine.

What most appealed to me at this design-savvy 5-star address was that nearly all of the furniture and interior elements were repurposed from the hotel which previously stood in its place. Brilliant concept! Each of the 79 well-outfitted rooms is designed in one of three themes, vintage postcards and “evil eyes” among them.

The dining room where breakfast is served is cleverly composed of recycled furniture and wooden elements.

The evening found us on a walk around the neighborhood of the NEW Hotel where we discovered many charming cafes and a good dose of history. The Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds were both visions to behold as the sun began to set.

Having already visited many of Athen’s sights on a previous Greek island-hopping adventure, including the majestic Acropolis, we favored the culinary side of the city and headed for dinner with friends.

The following afternoon we hopped aboard a ferry for an 8-hour journey to the remote island of Astypalea.

Adventures in Crete

It had been a few years since we took a trip to Greece, and as anyone who reads this blog knows, the Greek Islands are one of our favorite destinations in the world! This time we decided to skip the Cyclades and venture to the larger island of Crete, my 15th island and my Italian’s 19th. But who’s counting? With only six days to explore, we took to the road upon arriving to Heraklion, first stop the ancient Minoan village of Knossos.

Beneath a cloudy sky we walked the cobbled paths of what is considered Europe’s oldest city, in complete awe.

Eager to lose ourselves in the blue hues so unique to Greece, we drove two hours to the southern coast until we reached Triopetra Beach. Home became a cozy family-run hotel for anyone seeking to escape the bustle of urban life. Days were spent exploring the region, taking dips in the sea, and dining on the freshest Greek cuisine with a group of yogis and other off-the-beaten-path travelers.

One of our day trips led us to Preveli Beach where we skipped the sun-bathing and headed straight for the palm tree forest. What stunning scenery!

While we could easily have spent several more days in Triopetra, we were eager to explore more of Crete. The next stop was Loutro, reachable by boat (or a very long hike) from Hora Sfakion.

Reminiscent of the Cyclades with white buildings set below rocky mountains rising into the sky, we immediately felt at home. Another remote paradise found.

Before our final destination of Chania, we stopped at one of Crete’s most dramatic beaches. Seitan Limani requires a rather steep hike to reach its crystal clear waters. Needless to say, it was well worth it!

By the time we reached Chania on Crete’s northeastern coast, we were smitten with the island and plotting our return. Boasting a 14th-century Venetian harbor, the city is ridden with charm and history.

We settled into a boutique hotel in the city center and set our sights on the surrounding beauty, our only dilemma being which taverna to dine in.

These adventures in Crete reaffirmed our deep affection for this country, its culture, and its people.

Melenos Lindos

We arrived to Rhodes and immediately fell under the spell of its majestic medieval city, the largest walled city in Europe. We explored the tangle of roads which led to the Jewish Quarter and paid a visit to the impressive Archaeological Museum. But our main destination was the town of Lindos, an hour by bus and a world of difference.

IMG_0884Rising over the traditional white homes of Lindos sits an acropolis dating back to the 10th century BC. As we ventured up the hill, we arrived to our home, Melenos Lindos, what appeared to be a village within a village; a world of its own that I was eager to discover.

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