Luxembourg Palace

September 22, 2018

Every year during the weekend of European Heritage Days the doors of some of Paris’s most exclusive addresses open to the public. The only question is – Which monumental building to discover? This year we decided to visit the Luxembourg Palace, set in the bucolic Luxembourg Gardens and home to the French Senate.

This princely estate was built at the request of Marie de Medicis, with construction completed in 1630. After becoming home to a number of kings and queens, the palace became a prison. It wasn’t until the 1800s that the Luxumbourg Palace adopted a governmental role. In 1958 it became home to the Senate of the Fifth Republic.

Okay, enough about the history of Luxembourg Palace, ready for a tour of the centuries old interior chambers?

Office of the Vice President of the Senate, shown to the public for its patrimonial relevance. The current offices are are at 26 and 36 rue de Vaugirard.

Once called the Great Gallery, this is now the Library Annex. The first European painting museum was open to the public here from 1750 to 1780, and another museum for contemporary art from 1803 to 1815 and 1818 to 1886. The vaulted ceiling reveals a series of paintings by Jacob Jordaens representing the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac. Here too sits a bronze bust by American sculptor Jo Davidson of Literature Nobel Prize winner Anatole France, who once worked in the library.

The Victor Hugo Lounge owes its name to the bust sculpted by Antonin Mercié in 1889 of illustrious writer and Parliamentarian Victor Hugo who was a senator during the Third Republic.

The Conference Hall, a perfect example of Second Empire style, was designed by Alphonse de Gisors. Here sits a throne where Napoleon I once sat. Depictions of the history of France line the walls, along with eights tapestries from the Gobelins illustrating Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Senators now use this elegant 57 meters long room as a lounge in between meetings.

The Senate Chamber built from 1836 to 1841 is supported by eight stucco columns separated by seven statues of prestigious legislators. The 348 seats are allocated in proportion to the number of members in every political group with each senator having a designated seat.

View of the Luxembourg Gardens from the vast library where senators spend time reading and researching.

The Questeur’s Office where three Questeur’s manage the Senate’s administrative matters and run its budget.

Office of the President of the Senate, and thought to be the study of then First Consul Napoleon Bonaparte.

Monumental stairway by Boffrand featuring a stone balustrade, at the mansion used for offical receptions.

If you find yourself in Paris during European Heritage Days, take a tour for yourself! Now, where to next year…

Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen

August 5, 2018

Ready to go treasure hunting in Paris? I spend many of my weekends at the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, just outside of the city. Only open Saturday, Sunday and Monday, it has quickly become a favorite place and where I often lead private tours. Founded in 1885, the largest flea market in the world is composed of a total of 14 markets. Where to begin? Marché Vernaison is the first of the markets, and the most characteristic, if you’re in search of treasures in every form.

At Marché Vernaison you can find that rare item you’ve been searching your whole life for, whatever it may be. Each of the over 300 stalls specializes in anything from tableware to vintage clothing to ancient posters.

What’s more, the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen offer the ideal place to look for one-of-a-kind souvenirs.

While shopping, stop by the famous (and very kitschy) Chez Louisette where you’ll feast on French specialties to the soundtrack of Edith Piaf melodies, sang live of course. It’s undoubtedly an experience!

Another of my favorite markets is Paul Bert, connected to Serpette and where you can dine at Philippe Starck’s Ma Cocotte, should you opt for a more gourmet meal. The décor alone is worth the visit!

Serpette boasts some of my favorite luxury bags and vintage fashion vendors, Le Monde du Voyage (Allée 5 Stand 15) and Patricia Attwook (Allée 2 Stand 7) respectively. Here too, discover dazzling vintage jewelry including pieces by Chanel and Schiaparelli is presented by famed collector Olwen Forest (Allée 3, stand 5).

One of my most cherished treasures from the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is French linen, found at Allée 2 Stand 111 at Paul Bert. Here you can weave in and out of the dozens of stalls, where mid-century modern furniture mingles with modern art. And a well-curated selection of antiques.

What about the other 11 markets at Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen? I’m happy to acquaint you in person. Sign up for a tour with me, here.

World War I Centennial

December 8, 2017

This year marks 100 years since American soldiers entered World War I, aiding their French allies in winning the war. To commemorate the Centennial of the Great War, I recently joined Atout France for a trip to the Lorraine and Meuse regions of France, the setting for many hard fought battles. Our journey began at the train station in the city of Metz. The Neo-Roman architecture is one example of the power during the German empire.

From here we discovered the Centre Pompidou-Metz, a modern contrast to this medieval Gallo-Roman city which includes Saint Etienne Cathedral with stained glass windows by Marc Chagall and the Porte des Allemands (German Door). The latter was named for the Teutonic Knights who founded a hospital nearby in the 13th century.

From Metz we drove 80 kilometers to Verdun in the Meuse Argonne region, where I enjoyed a room with a view of the city at hotel Les Jardins du Mess, not to mention a decadent dinner. In the morning it was time to explore.

The first stop in discovering exactly how grueling life was for the soldiers during the Great War was at Butte de Vauquois. It is here that mine warfare created massive craters in the land, beneath which German soldiers built a network of galleries. Soldiers often spent entire weeks within these dark, damp tunnels. Hard to fathom.

Our next stop was to Romagne ’14-’18, a museum created through 30 years of collecting wartime objects within the woods around Romagne-sous-Montfaucon. This is the life work of Jean-Paul de Vries, a man with many a tale to tell. Collections of grenades, rifles and helmets to items including combs, forks, watches, shoes and love letters, tell the story of the soldiers’ everyday life.

American soldiers officially entered the war on April 6th 1917, mobilizing over 4 million able-bodied men. This followed their two years of aiding injured French soldiers as ambulance drivers. Victory with the aid of American soldiers in 1918, ended the mine warfare in Verdun. The American Monument at Montfaucon d’Argonne is one of many testaments to America’s loyalty to France. This 60-meter high monument commemorating American victory in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive, faces the front line of the American First Army on the morning of September 26, 1918, the start of the offensive.

To commemorate the 14,246 American soldiers who lost their lives during World War I, we spent a solemn evening at the Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery. It was November 11^th 2017, and the largest American graveyard in Europe held a ceremony with 3,000 candles in remembrance of these soldiers. I will never forget this deeply touching experience. Next year for the Centennial on September 23, 2018, one candle will be lit for every soldier who fought alongside the French. This event will honor the promise made by General Pershing: “Time will not dim the glory of their deeds”.

That night we found refuge at Hostellerie du Château des Monthairons, a family-run castle that once served as as a hospital for US troops in 1915. The perfect place to reflect.

The following day began at the Battlefield of Verdun, the setting for the most intense warfare that took place during WWI. This French and German battlefield remained in French hands, but not without horrific losses of life from both sides. The Battle of Verdun in 1916 lasted 300 days and 300 nights with non-stop fighting. Tragically, more than 300,000 soldiers died or were considered missing, with over 400,000 French and German soldiers wounded. A visit to Verdun might be the only way to truly comprehend this unprecedented loss of life from both sides.

The Ossuary is one of the national French memorials to the First World War, and a remarkable tribute to brave men. Here the remains of 130,000 unknown soldiers are laid to rest. Whether from the German or French side, these soldiers are united as men who lost the battle for their lives.

Nearby Fort Vaux is a symbol of French heroism. It was here that Major Sylvain-Eugene Raynal, after running out of water, medical supplies and food for his men, sent several messages via homing pigeons. It was his last pigeon that brought relief for his soldiers. This pigeon named Le Vaillant, released from Fort Vaux on June 4, 1916, was awarded the Order of the Nation. A feat worth the honor!

The Verdun Memorial provides a comprehensive history lesson on the Battle of Verdun. You are greeted by the image of a Verdun soldier, unaware whether he is French or German. This recently renovated museum is filled with original photographs, bone-chilling eyewitness accounts, and 2,000 wartime items. Personal items include crafts made by the soldiers during many idle hours, and letters sent home to worried families.

This journey through the Lorraine and Meuse regions presents both a history lesson and brings us closer to the heroism and tragedies of all these young soldiers, regardless of the borders that defined them. A journey worth taking for all of us, especially for the Centennial of World War I.

Sintra

May 8, 2017

A quick 40-minute train ride from Lisbon lands you in the picturesque town of Sintra, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were immediately taken with the romantic landscape. Following a path away from the masses of tourists, we found a picture perfect lunch spot overlooking the Palace of Sintra, built by the Moors in the Middle Ages. With only an afternoon, we chose two fairy tale scenes to discover.

Our first stop was the Moorish Castle, or what looks like the setting for Game of Thrones. This military fort was built just before the 10th century by the North African Moors. After falling into disrepair, is was restored by King Ferdinand II in the 19th century, and has since become a major tourist attraction.

We walked its lengthy walls and up its watchtowers. From a distance the Pena Palace was visible, our next stop.

The Park and Palace of Pena make up the most important part of Sintra’s cultural landscape. Arriving to this architectural marvel, it’s easy to understand why. The brightly colored palace is a balance of nature meets 19th century Portuguese Romanticism. In a word, stunning! I quickly learned that it was rebuilt after an earthquake destroyed this former 18th century monastery. It was King Ferdinand II who transformed it into a palace, creating the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family. We spent the rest of the afternoon discovering the elaborate interior while marveling at the exterior facades. What an extraordinary work of art!

While we could certainly have stayed overnight in Sintra, I was happy to head back to Lisbon and continue our adventure. All the while during our return I wondered, how quickly could we return to Portugal?

Weekend in Lombardia

April 14, 2017

Traveling to Italy often, I am well acquainted with certain of its 21 regions including Toscana with its rolling hills and capital city Firenze, Trentino and Alto Adige with the majestic Dolomites, and Liguria, my second home in Cinque Terre. On this trip, I discovered another region that quickly became a favorite, Lombardia.

The journey began in the town of Varese, just 55 kilometers north of Milan. I soon realized that this was the perfect spot from which to tour the region. The first stop to discover the magic of Lombardia was the Sanctuary of the Sacro Monte of Varese, 883 meters high, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the top of the hill stood the Pogliaghi House with its enchanting garden, a museum open to all. An eccentric lover of art, Ludovico Pogliaghi began building his house in 1885 and in the years that followed he collected over 1,500 artworks. An artist himself, the door of Milan’s Duomo was his most famous commission, with the original plaster door sitting just above his grand piano, which I attempted to play.

With church bells ringing in the distance, I walked along this 2 kilometer long “Holy Way” of Sacro Monte, encountering 14 chapels dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary. This sacred cobbled path dates back to 1604 when Capuchin friar Giovanni Battista Aguggiari set upon creating it.

Each of the 14 chapels are unique in design and feature statues and frescoes created by major Lombard artists of the seventeenth century. With every encounter I felt the mysterious air of a spiritual past.

The following day another grand villa awaited in nearby Gazzada Schianno. Nineteenth century Villa Cagnola was a sight to behold overlooking French and English gardens and views of the countryside. Most impressive were the treasures hidden on the inside. In addition to a large private collection of Italian paintings from the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, the collection of ceramics, both European and Oriental porcelain is awe-inspiring! Certainly worth a visit and an overnight stay.

From here I walked the historic route Via Francisca del Lucomagno to Castiglione Olona, surrounded by fields of blossoming flowers and the splendor of nature.

The fifth century town of Castiglione Olona charmed even from afar. I couldn’t wait to enter its walls.

A lunch stop at Osteria degli Artisti for a plate of strawberry asparagus risotto? There’s a first for everything!

A site worth visiting is La Collegiata, built where once stood the ancient castle. The Collegiate church along with the Baptistry, makes up the Collegiate Museum. Both were decorated by Masolino da Panicale, one of Florence’s most recognized painters.

From here the afternoon continued to Torba Abbey, a former benedictine convent. The annual flower market was taking place and the entire monastery was in bloom!

The next morning it was time to discover Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest lake after Lake Garda. How best to tour this majestic lake than by sailboat. This may in fact be my preferred mode of transport.

The views were stunning, as the wind sent us sailing along the coast of Lombardia. Complete serenity as we reached a breathtaking monastery built within a cliff.

Santa Caterina del Sasso is one of the most ethereal sights I’ve ever seen. Legend has it that after surviving a storm, wealthy local merchant Alberto Besozzi dedicated his life to Saint Catherine and had part of this Hermitage built in her honor. The rest as they say, is history.

My days and nights discovering Lombardia were filled with so many moments of awe and inspiration, both natural and spiritual. Enough to last until the next time. Meanwhile, here’s a video for more bella vistas.

Roman Holiday

January 11, 2016

The last time I was in Rome was the first time I was in Italy, 13 years ago. A good friend and I took a trip to visit this historic land. Little did either of us know that we would both marry Italian men years later. Foreshadowing? I had not been to Rome since, and those who read this blog know I travel to Italy quite often, so my Italian and I decided it was time to return to the roots of Italian history. Our Roman Holiday began in the charming neighborhood of Trastevere, with a view of the Tiber river. With only a few days to explore the city, and endless sights to fall back in love with, we hit the streets, guided by blue skies and our trusted Lonely Planet.

Just steps away on the other side of the Tiber we found the sunlit and flower-filled Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, one of the most enchanting of Rome’s many squares. I immediately fell in love with the vibrant colors, illuminated by the sun, a stark contrast to the neutral tones of Paris. Kasia Dietz handbags Rome collection?

From one majestic fountain to another, we stopped to admire them all. Just don’t drink the water they say…

The Fountain of the Four Rivers, one of Bernini’s masterpieces, depicts Gods of the four great rivers in the four continents as were then recognized by the Renaissance geographers, including the Nile in Africa, the Ganges in Asia, the Danube in Europe and the Río de la Plata in America.

The Pantheon, a Greek adjective meaning “honor all Gods”, built and dedicated between A.D 118 and 125, is one of the most preserved and influential buildings in Rome. Not to mention majestic!

Newly restored and sparkling, I was tempted to jump into the Trevi Fountain La Dolce Vita style. I resisted.

On one of our exploratory walks, we climbed to the top of the Altar of the Fatherland, also known as National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II in honor of the first King of a unified Italy.

The views from the top were impressive, to say the least. Rome glowed in the late afternoon sun. I swooned.

One day was spent with friends, a Roman power couple you could say. Erica being a travel journalist and Rome expert, and Darius an archaeologist who digs on this very land. Who better to explore the Roman Forum with?

Once the center of Roman public life, we tried to imagine the events that took place here many centuries ago.

By chance, we gained access to sights that haven’t been made public yet. For my (and your) eyes only…

We walked from the Roman Forum up 40 meters to Palatine Hill… Our expert guide Darius Arya leading the way.

From there we saw the Colosseum, the largest amphitheater ever built. An engineering & architectural marvel.

I stood for a while admiring the Colosseum before we went inside, in complete awe. To the right of it is the apartment from film La Grande Bellezza, not a bad view…

Enamored with sculptor Bernini, we spent an afternoon at the Villa Borghese. I’ve learned to always look down.

Our last stop was at Saint Peter’s Basilica which will leave even an atheist marveling at this Renaissance structure, both inside and out. Already, we couldn’t wait to return. Rome had captured our hearts.

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