New Year in Sicily

The beginning of the new year, and the start of a new decade, found us in Palermo. This was our third trip to Sicily, each one leaving us more enchanted with this Italian island. Rich in both history and breathtaking landscapes, not to mention the food, Sicily is easy to fall in love with. Before heading to the capital city, we stopped for lunch in the small town of Mazara del Vallo followed by Sciacca where we settled for a few days.

This fishing port town known for its ceramics proved to be a little gem with a lot of potential. Home was the most charming B&B overlooking the port. Restaurant Stranizze, also a winery, proved a top dining spot.

Close by to Sciacca we visited a limestone cliff that took the appearance of stairs. Of course, we climbed up.

The next stop was nearby to Sicily’s most famous Greek ruins, the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. This awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest archaeological site in the world, includes the remains of seven temples dating back to the 5th-century BC.

It was nearing New Year’s Eve and time to head to our main and final destination, the city of Palermo. While we have explored much of the island from Ortigia to Taormina and Trapani to Cefalù to Ragusa (and back to Ortigia), we had yet to discover Palermo, home to the famous cathedral, an architectural marvel from medieval Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque.

SLEEP: We settled into Eurostars Centrale Palace, a historic palace in the city center, just steps away from Piazza Pretoria and within walking distance to most of Palermo’s attractions. New Year’s Eve dinner was spent at another regal address, the palatial home of Guiseppi Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. 18th-century Butera 28 in the beautiful Kalsa neighborhood also offers apartments for rent.

EAT: With so many fine dining options in Palermo, we chose wisely, and were not disappointed. Included in our top dining experiences is Caponata, helmed by young chef Giuliano Blasi who will leave you impressed by his experimental cuisine whose preparation you can observe via the open kitchen. Another noteworthy address is Osteria Ballarò where you can feast on house specialties or opt for street food including famous panelle, or chickpea fritters. For the most authentic taste of the latter, head to Dainotti at the Capo market.

VISIT: With churches and palaces on nearly every corner in Palermo, there’s a lot of see. Worthy of a visit are Abatellis Palace, featuring the largest collection of Romanesque to Baroque artwork in Sicily, and the imposing Butera Palace. We also spent an afternoon discovering the Baroque-style Church of Saint Catherine, also a living monastery to a group of nuns until 2014. Along with stunning views from the church’s rooftop, head to the ground floor bakery to indulge in original sweet recipes, “I segreti del Chiostro” (The secrets of the cloister). The cannoli is the best I’ve ever tasted! For a cassata, one of the best bakery’s is Pasticceria Costa.

To discover Palermo with an expert guide, contact Elisabetta Gulizzi who gave us an in-depth tour of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, a majestic Baroque church in the midst of the Capo market. With so much more to see, visit, and taste, Palermo hasn’t seen the last of us yet.

A Taste of Tuscany

Every October we head to the Italian Riviera for a little off-season sea and sun, and sometimes the olive harvest. This time we left Liguria for a taste of Tuscany. The first stop on this whirlwind trip that my Italian so carefully planned was to the medieval town of Campiglia Marittima. While exploring this centuries-old hilltop town along the Etruscan Coast, I felt as though we had entered a deserted movie set. Were we the only actors?

Stopping for espresso in the town square, we skipped the Archaeology Museum and the Mineral Museum set within the 13th century Palazzo Pretorio and headed up to the archaeological ruins.

It was here that traces of pre-medieval settlements were left to discover, including a Romanesque window.

After getting lost in the sleepy streets, we left Campiglia Marittima for a smaller and more remote destination.

We drove along scenic Tuscan roads overlooking the Gulf of Baratti until we approached a gated stone wall. The only Etruscan village by the sea, the undisputably charming Populonia is home to 18 year-round residents.

After a decadent lunch at the best spot in town, family-run Osteria La Torre di Populonia, we skipped the Etruscan Museum and headed up to the castle where 360 degree views awaited us.

While I inhaled the views, my Italian pointed out the distant islands of Elba, Corsica, Capraia and Gorgona.

We bid farewell to Populonia and made one last stop along a cypress-lined road to pick up wine in Bolgheri.

Adventures in Amalfi

To celebrate ten years since that fortuitous meeting on Prince Street in New York City, my Italian and I chose one of the most stunning settings, the Amalfi Coast. From Naples we rented a car and the adventures began! First stop was lunch at the fishing village of Cetara.

Back on the winding hillside roads, we headed towards Amalfi, destination Hotel Santa Caterina. This is where the dream began, or rather, continued, upon our terrace with a view of this once powerful maritime republic. Could there be a more perfect setting to celebrate our love story?

Barely did I want to leave our hilltop perch, but it was time to explore the town, and the rest of the Amalfi Coast.

From a visit to the 9th-century Amalfi Cathedral that overlooks the town, to Pasticceria Andrea Pansa dating back to 1830 and known for their famous lemon cake, we toured the town. We also perused the paper shops, Amalfi town once the leading manufacturer of handmade paper. How fitting for an anniversary gift!

Our next stop along the coast was to the colorful village of Positano, equally impressive from afar and from within the maze of streets. I could only imagine the hoards of people visiting come summertime.

The next day we braved the even longer and more winding roads to discover Sorrento. What a gem! Set on the Bay of Naples this coastal town just outside of the Amalfi Coast won our hearts.

High above Amalfi town sits Ravello, considered by many the hidden treasure of the Amalfi Coast. With so many stately homes and gardens galore, I could understand why! Following the sun, we ended up at Villa Cimbrone. Dating back to the 11th century AD and restored in the 20th century by Ernest William Beckett, many notable personalities passed through this grand estate, including Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, Henry Moore, T.S. Eliot, and Winston Churchill.

It was the Terrace of Infinity, with its endless sea views, that called to our souls, as it had so many before us.

A twenty-minute walk from Amalfi, we discovered the small and endlessly charming fishing village of Atrani.

Here too we discovered a vast terrace that appeared to float directly into the sea. And I apparently with it…

Walking back to Amalfi following five days of coastal bliss, our hearts were even more full than when we arrived.

Riviera Hopping

On my last visit to Cinque Terre, the inviting October sun inspired a trip along the Italian Riviera. After the olive harvest, of course. There remained a unique hidden gem I had yet to discover, and a few villages to revist. Our journey began via train from Monterosso.

In just over an hour we arrived to one of my favorite and most scenic of Liguria’s seaside villages, Camogli. The beaches were filled with bathers soaking beneath the Mediterranean sun.

From Camogli’s port we hopped aboard a boat to our next destination, a seaside gem I was eager to visit.

Might I add that there’s no better way to travel along the Italian Riviera than by boat. Unless you opt to hike.

I was in awe at the sight of San Fruttuoso. A medieval abbey set on an idyllic cove between Camogli and Portofino. A hidden paradise only reachable via boat or by hiking two hours across the Portofino promontory.

We settled in for a seaside lunch of fresh seafood and pasta at restaurant La Cantina followed by a swim in the tepid sea. I could easily understand why San Fruttuoso captivated anyone who reached its remote shores.

Choosing to travel by boat, we hopped back aboard, destination Portofino. I had first visited this chic port village eleven years ago during my year long travels, just before my love affair with Cinque Terre began.

Our last stop before returning to Monterosso was to neighboring Santa Margherita Ligure for a gelato. My Côte d’Azur clutch fit right in with the kaleidoscope of colors.

In just 45 minutes we were back in Cinque Terre, filled with visions of the picture perfect Italian Riviera, undoubtedly one of the most enchanting coasts in the world.

Happiness in Italian

Welcome to La Felicità, the latest outpost by the Big Mamma group known for bringing some of the best Italian eateries to the French capital since 2015. Included in their expansive line-up are Ober Mamma in Oberkampf, East Mamma in Bastille, Big Love Caffè in the Marais, Pizzeria Populare in Bourse and Mamma Primi in Batignolles. My Italian and I were invited to the grand opening several weeks ago, what a gourmet fête!

Set within 4,500 square meters in a former railway station, La Felicità now reigns as the biggest restaurant in Europe. Its home in Station F, Paris’s hub for innovation and creativity in the 13th arrondissement, has quickly become a destination for entrepreneurs and tourists alike. A fitting location for a fellow start-up. Trains part of the décor, the shabby-chic design itself is worth the visit.

With five kitchens and three bars including a beer garden, plus a food market, there’s plenty to feast on, both inside the impressive space and along the enormous sun-drenched terrace. Some of La Felicità’s specialties include pizza from a wood-burning oven, creamy burrata and plenty of savory pasta dishes, truffles optional. To satisfy every palate from both land and sea, there’s a seafood bar and a USA-inspired burger shack. Don’t leave without trying a spritz cocktail in seasonable flavors including peach, one of the best in Paris.

Italians take the sweet side of life aka la dolce vita, very seriously. La Felicità’s bakery Le Panificio, serves fresh focaccia while their Napolitan-style caffeteria takes pride in their espresso and selection of cakes and cookies. An ice-cream cart serves homemade gelato throughout the day.

Translated to “happiness”, La Felicità’s menu includes much more than food. There’s a full program of events taking place throughout the year, including concerts, outdoor festivals and activities for kids. Let’s not forget weekend brunch featuring live music. Read this and more of my Paris features on Bonjour Paris.

La Felicità // 55 Boulevard Vincent Auriol, 75013 // Mon-Fri 12:15-2:30 // Wed-Fri 6-12 // Sat 12-1am // Sun 12-11

Weekend in Venice

I first experienced the sensation of Venice as a university student during a quick sojourn en route to Croatia. My second visit was with girlfriends during my around-the-world trip in 2007. But it was this recent trip with my Italian in which I became completely smitten with the city. Where better to spend a weekend celebrating our love story. Almost nine years since that fortuitous day on New York’s Prince Street, we set our hearts on Venice.

SLEEP: Our first stop after getting lost in the maze of canals, was our home on the Grand Canal, Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. This once private palace possessing the air and art of a museum feels like you’ve entered a Venetian fairy tale. All that was missing to set the scene was a grand masquerade ball. Built in the 15th century and bought by the Sagredo family three centuries later, this palace remains in private hands.

The hands on the hotel’s facade however, are an installation by Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, unveiled for the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017. Titled “Support” this piece is meant to bring attention to the threat of global warming, and I hope it will remain in place for years to come. Quinn’s smaller sculptures are on display within the hotel’s grand salons. In the Music Ballroom, numerous frescoes attributed to Gaspare Diziani cover the walls and ceiling. The Sagredo family’s coat of arms can be found decorating the floor.

The long hall, featuring chandeliers in Murano glass and murals along the walls, overlooks the Grand Canal.

Perhaps the most spectacular design element of Ca’ Sagredo is the staircase by architect Andrea Tirali, completed in 1732. He also built the Ponte dei Tre Archi over the Cannaregio canal in Venice in 1688. Two marble cherubs by Francesco Bertos greet guests, while breathtaking frescoes by Pietro Longhi  hang upon the wall.

EAT: Our first lunch stop was to Cantina Do Mori, Venice’s oldest cichetti bar, dating back to 1462, and one of Casanova’s favorite haunts. We dined on an array of delicious Venetian appetizers while mingling with the kindest locals. Thanks to their generous insights, our dining plans for the next few days were sorted. Our most decadent dinner was at the helm of chef Agostino Doria of Ostaria Santa Marina. Blending creativity with tradition, he serves perfectly balanced dishes from both land and sea. My octopus risotto was buonissimo! For an equally tasty yet more casual dining experience, Ostaria da Rioba is the place. Trust me! Even more casual still, and where we feasted on cichetti is Al Timon.

DRINK: One spot not to miss is Neo-Baroque cafe dating to 1720, Caffè Florian. Positioned on Piazza San Marco, it’s certainly a tourist attraction, but worthy of a stop for coffee or an aperitivo.

VISIT: A must see while in Venice is Palazzo Ducale, or Doges’ Palace, established in the 9th century. This was the seat of the Republic’s government, bureaucracy and main prisons.

You can easily spend an entire afternoon learning about Venetian history within this regal palace. Among the impressive artwork you’ll discover one of the world’s largest oil paintings. Tintoretti’s “Paradiso” takes over one wall of the Grand Council Hall, a sight to behold, as is the room itself.

Passing through the Bridge of Sighs, named for the sighs prisoners made while being led to captivity, you’ll enter into the newer prisons. To discover hidden secrets, take the Secret Itineraries Tour.

There’s much to see and do in Venice, besides taking a gondola ride, though that’s always an option! Even a week wouldn’t merit enough time to become intimately acquainted with the city’s six sestieri, or neighborhoods. Though in one weekend, we tried! My suggestion, wander without a map in hand and enjoy getting lost. The islands of Murano (famous for glass) and Burano (lots of lace) are only a boat ride away.

ART FIX: For the art aficionados, visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, an internationally recognized museum of modern art, and Punta della Dogana, an art museum in Venice’s former customs building. Captivating centuries old works of art are exhibited in one of Venice’s most venerated churches, the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

SHOP: My favorite spot for artisanal souvenirs is Paolo Olbi’s paper shop. This legendary man (who only speaks Italian) began his craft in as a bookbinder in 1962 and years later began creating beautiful photo albums, frames and agendas. For all things luxury head to the Fondaco dei Tedeschi nearby Rialto bridge, opened in 2017. This majestic building dating back to 1228 was once a trading post for German merchants, a customs house under Napoleon, and a post office under Mussolini. Even better than the shopping? Head up to the rooftop for the best views of the city. Enjoy the dream that is Venice!

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