Living like Royalty in Versailles

Just in time for our 10th wedding anniversary this past June, I was assigned a very regal assignment for Condé Nast Traveller. This included a three-day stay at brand new hotel Le Grand Contrôle, set within the grounds of Château de Versailles. WHAT A DREAM! I was thrilled to play queen for a day, or three. With my king by my side.

Immediately upon passing through the doors of Le Grand Contrôle, you feel as though you’ve entered into another era. One in which it’s easy to feel underdressed with the staff buttoned up in stately uniforms.

Upon arriving, our personal butler settled us into our room, or shall I say lavish suite, named after the Necker family. He was a finance minister for Louis XVI and his wife helped to establish a children’s hospital in Paris.

After discovering the desk I decided this would be where I’d write my memoirs. With a feather plume, of course.

The heavenly view from the bathroom looked directly onto Château de Versailles. Even from my morning bath.

The rest of the antique-filled hotel proved just as well-appointed as our suite. From the game room to the downstairs lounge to the dining salons. And might I add that dinner set quite a theatrical stage!

The privilege of staying at Le Grand Contrôle, in addition to feeling like part of the royal court and dining at the helm of Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, is an after-hours guided tour of Château de Versailles.

One of the most magical moments, other than a behind-the-scenes look at the Queen’s Chambers, was walking through an empty Hall of Mirrors. The perfect photo op! It was our wedding anniversary, after all.

Mornings at Le Grand Contrôle included a private guided tour of the Grand Trianon, the Petit Trianon, or the Queen’s Hamlet. Following each visit, I was beginning to understand Marie Antoinette on a much deeper level.

The stay at Le Grand Contrôle felt like living in the most regal period in French history. From a picnic on the grounds of Versailles to a candlelit dinner in our chambers. And let’s not forget the subterranean spa. Read all about my experience in the September issue of Condé Nast Traveller, October issue of CN Traveler US, or online.

La Mirande in Avignon

Not yet ready to head back to Paris after so many magical days cruising the Rhone River, I reserved the most breathtaking address in Avignon of a last night of luxury. We arrived to hotel La Mirande in the heart of this historic city and immediately fell in love with this palatial address.

Upon opening the curtains in our room, we discovered the most stunning view of the Popes’ Palace. This medieval Gothic fortress and palace was the seat of Western Christianity in the 14th century.

We quickly made ourselves at home in the outdoor patio, led by the hotel’s mascot, a cat named Mirande.

This 5-star hotel revealed even more magnificence within the refurbished quarters of this private home dating back to the 14th century, where cardinals once took residence.

Paying respect to the unique 18th and 19th-century design elements, Hotel La Mirande was brought back to life.

The breakfast room appeared as though from a fairy tale. But it was dinner that transported us to another era.

Little did we know what awaited us at Guest Table, a 4-course dinner prepared by Chef Séverine Sagnet.

Beginning with an apéritif in La Mirande’s wine cellar, we made a toast with guests from around the world.

A communal wooden table for thirteen was set in the family kitchen, a wood-burning stove ready to cook our farm to table meal as we feasted on the first course. Memories were shared and friendships made during this extraordinary dining experience. Next time I plan to dine at their one Michelin star restaurant helmed by Chef Florent Pietravalle, as well as book the cooking class and learn a few culinary tricks.

While staying at La Mirande, we spent the day visiting neighboring Popes’ Palace and legendary Pont d’Avignon.

There was no better place to call home on our last days of such an epic trip from Lyon to the South of France.

La Vallée Village

With Paris being the fashion capital and home to so many timeless luxury brands, where better to shop the outlets? Namely those French brands we all covet, including Céline, Longchamp, and Lacoste. Having just returned from La Vallée Village, a 45-minute drive, bur or train ride outside of Paris, I can honestly say this is the most stunning outlet shopping center I’ve had the pleasure to visit and shop at. And with 120 international brands at at least 33% off retail prices, open 7 days a week, what’s not to love?

La Vallée Village resembles an actual village, with tree-lined pedestrian streets and pastel-colored facades.

Here’s a little secret. The famous bi-annual Paris sales or soldes as we call them, begin a week early here!

There are plenty of cafes in which to take a break from the thrill of shopping and find serenity over a plate of Ladurée macarons, or hot chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat. At new restaurant Menu Palais, taste cuisine created by expert chef Stéphane d’Aboville in an elegant setting echoing the Mini Palais in Paris.

La Vallée Village is just as fashionable as its shops, all dressed up in festive decor for the holiday season.

The highlight of my visit, aside from the shopping of course, was the lighting ceremony, in which the myriad of lanterns lit up, along with the dozens of facades lining this shopping village. It was musical group Les Parisiennes that officiated the ceremony, followed by an animated concert. (See the ladies on the balcony?)

If you’re planning your own trip to La Vallée Village, which I highly recommend, the easiest way from Paris is via RER A “Val d’Europe” Station or by Shopping Express® Shuttle Service: twice daily from Place des Pyramides.

Dining with Madame Eiffel

With so many haute cuisine options in Paris, it’s hard to decide where to dine. Yet very few of these addresses will include a gourmet date with Madame Eiffel. It’s at Maison Blanche from atop the Theatre des Champs Elysees on avenue Montaigne that you can enjoy an intimate encounter with this Parisian icon, over a decadent dinner where you dine like a star! This elegant address has been wooing its clientele for over 28 years.

Both from the inside dining room of Maison Blanche‘s Montaigne terrace to the more confidential outdoor George V terrace, the panoramic views of Paris are captivating. At once you’ll feel a part of the city from high above its characteristic rooftops.

Since March 2015 Executive Chef Fabrice Giraud has been concocting creative dishes at this elite restaurant, influenced by Mediterranean flavors and world travels. In his words, “Human contact and historical places have always influenced my choice. Maison Blanche is a magical and unique place which attracted me.” Prepare for the feast of your life! Chef Giraud has just created his new seasonal tasting menu including a savory monk fish plate with zucchini cream. The rest I will leave for you to discover.

I recommend booking for dinner and staying until Madame Eiffel illuminates the city with her radiant light. Come sunset, there is plenty of toasting to be made at Maison Blanche, with some of the best champagne and wine on offer. Here you can truly experience the French joie de vivre.

Prepare to capture memorable moments with Madame Eiffel, certain to charm you with her elegance and grace.

The Heart of London

The last few weeks have been all about family. A European holiday that took my mom to my most beloved places, from Monterosso, Italy to Paris to London, ending in the city where she and my father met years ago. For the grand finale, where better to stay than at One Aldwych, in the very heart of London. We arrived from Paris via the Eurostar, welcomed by bright blue skies. My mom has a habit of inviting the sun wherever she goes.

What was once a newspaper publishing house has in the last 20 years been converted to a privately owned five-star hotel. Though I soon found One Aldwych to be in a class of its own. The staff took every care to make our stay memorable, from the smiles exchanged in greeting to the personal notes left in the room. Not to mention the bed linens, fresh flowers, original artwork throughout the hotel… And did I mention the pool and spa? There’s also a 24-hour gym and private screening room. Had it been raining, I might not have left the hotel.

Just steps away from our room with a gorgeous view sits Covent Garden along with Seven Dials, a convergence of seven streets filled with boutiques, cafes, and plenty of charm. This being one of London’s most picturesque neighborhoods, we set off on foot to explore. We also stopped by the nearby National Gallery for a dose of British and French art. Across the street from One Aldwych, the Somerset House with the Courtauld Gallery houses one of the finest Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collections in the world. Art for days!

To venture further afield from Harrod’s to Oxford Street to Trafalgar Square, we hopped on the famous red London bus and took in the city from the upper deck. Here’s a tip: buy a £5 bus card and ride all day!

One Aldwych hotel is located in the heart of the theater district, evident as the Lion King peers into the windows of the elegant lounge. We opted to dine at the hotel which boasts two gourmet restaurants; Indigo, both locally sourced and dairy and gluten free at the helm of Chef Dominic Teague; and Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, a more high end option from Michelin starred Chef Eneko Atxa. The Lobby Bar itself is worth a visit with its ‘Showtime Menu’ featuring theater themed cocktails. Neither of us could resist as we sipped our Dionysus and Aldwych Mule concoctions before heading to the mezzanine for a decadent dinner. I took note that One Aldwych offers Film & Fizz nights in their 30-seat screening room. Champagne, dinner and a movie, anyone?

It was not easy to leave when the time came, mom back to the US and I to Paris. Without a doubt there was no better place to end our mother/daughter sojourn than in the luxurious and friendly embrace of One Aldwych.

Riad Farnatchi

Ever since my first visit to Morocco over two years ago, when my Italian surprised me with a trip to Essaouira, I’ve been longing to return, with Marrakech at the top of the list. This dream became a reality when I discovered luxurious Riad Farnatchi, the ideal home in the heart of the medina. With a friend and fellow writer in tow, we left the chill of late winter in Paris to discover the eternal sunshine of Marrakech.

We arrived to the intimate 10-bedroom Riad Farnatchi by way of the newly modernized airport, a quick 45 minute drive following a 3-hour flight from Paris.  The old world charm of the medina just outside the wooden portal, I immediately became enamored with this elegant riad, my first taste of Marrakech.

A breakfast of traditional Moroccan delights including sweet and savory flat bread Rgaïf-Msemen was enjoyed on my private terrace, to a backdrop of chirping birds and a flowing fountain. Complete tranquility found.

My suite itself was larger than most Parisian apartments, with skillfully crafted detail in every doorway and light fixture. I felt as though I had stepped back in time, with no recollection of the present day.


I knew there was an entire city waiting to be discovered, beginning with the souk just steps away, but I could have easily whiled away my days at Riad Farnatchi, both from within the courtyard and high up on the rooftop, taking in the views while calls to prayer sounded in the distance.

Dinner was savored at Riad Farnatchi’s new European-style restaurant Le Trou au Mur, where we dined on the house specialty, mixed mechuoi. This included some of the best cuts of lamb I’ve tasted, roasted in a traditional clay mechuoi oven. I’ll be back to dine on their stunning rooftop during the warmer months.

My days at Riad Farnatchi was spent discovering hidden corners of this charming hotel. I also had the pleasure of experiencing a traditional Moroccan hammam at the Farnatchi Spa. I’ve rarely felt so clean and relaxed!

Stay tuned to discover the many notable sights surrounding Riad Farnatchi in my personal guide to Marrakech.

 

 

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