next stop: Impressionism

My most venerated Paris museum was once a railway station, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Since then it was abandoned and later brought back to life 25 years ago, housing the largest Impressionist collection in the world. Not to mention my favorites, the Post-Impressionists.

I have wandered the halls of the Musée d’Orsay many a time, lost amidst it’s history both structural and that which decorates it’s walls. Though in the last year and a half, due to major renovations, much of this grand edifice was closed to the public, it’s space and artwork hidden from view.

To celebrate it’s recent unveiling, I decided to take a proper tour not only of the Orsay’s new galleries but also of it’s masterpieces. It was a Context Paris docent that enlightened me over an almost four hour long tour beginning in 1848 with Corot and the Barbizon School and ending in 1914 with Degas, Van Gogh, Cézanne and Monet, among others. I had briefly studied art history in the past, and tried to enlighten myself whenever possible, but an intimate tour with many of my most admired artists, where each of my questions was answered in depth and at length, THIS is art history heaven! Following the tour, I sat for some time in the sunlit space, thoughtful of all many stories I had been told, while gazing into the distance, grateful that this day at the Orsay was one of my own.

treasure hunting

The Louvre. The grandest museum in the world, and certainly the most intimidating. I tend to enter it’s glass pyramid on rare occasion only with a visitor in town. (Mona Lisa, Venus and I have shared more than enough moments through the years.) This all changed however, when my friend Daisy, an ex-New Yorker with a background in art history, invited me on a Treasure Hunt at the Louvre.

An activity she cleverly invented as a sort of art game, where people team up and set off to run wild amidst this grand corridors in search of hidden treasures. Where better (and more challenging) than the Louvre!

My Italian and I took part in these artful antics many months ago, with a dozen or so other teams. I found myself relying on mere luck to find our select masterpieces, most of which where not found. My strategic Italian had devised a plan but by the time we wrapped out heads around the museum’s floorplan, sands of the hourglass were spent. Thankfully I’m not too sore of a loser, as we all met to tally up the points an a neighborhood cafe. The evening resulted in both a lesson in art history and teamwork, and we all left in good spirits.

I have been waiting for the next THATLou event, and alas, it has arrived! Daisy is planning a treasure hunt for Friday November 18th. Sign up by the 11th, bring your competitive side and a partner, and prepare for a night of hunting for some of the grandest treasures to behold. If you can find them.

For details and to sign up contact Daisy: daisydeplume@gmail.com. Many more events in 2012…

outside {art}

During the recent days of FIAC, my Italian and I spent a glorious Sunday in the Tuileries Garden beneath the early Autumn sun, surrounded on all sides by art. This the outside feature of the contemporary art show. Was it the bright light or the unique sculptures that captured our eye? Perhaps a mix of the two. Enjoy the tour amidst a setting worthy itself of admiring.

Beginning with the carved wing of a plane.

A floating silver sculpture by Antoine Dorotte, glowing in it’s pond.

A Richard Serra-esque composition by artist Danh Vo.

Art competing in scale with the Louvre itself.

A wooden shining star.

Last, but certainly not least, an inflatable monkey hanging out of the Louvre. Pourquoi Pas?

 

{inside} art

Art has always provided a source of inspiration, particularly modern and contemporary. Where better to lose yourself but in the mind of an eccentric artist? Lucky for me, I have several friends who moonlight as art connoisseurs, not to mention the artists I have also come to know and collect. One such friend from the early days of New York’s GenArt, invited me to the preview of FIAC, Paris’s grand international contemporary art fair. A reunion at the Grand Palais, parfait!

What contemporary masterpieces did we find within this historic setting? Many.

Beginning with Anish Kapoor.

A literary donkey by Pilar Albarracin.

The humorous and thought provoking Richard Prince.

Even a little ‘walking art’?

My retro tote felt right at home with this Julio Le Parc painting.

This Geneviève Claisse was another favorite.

I was also impressed by these six works by Charline Von Heyl. (Yes, I’m in a black and white phase.)

To end the art tour, a little color infusion with these acrylic on silk paintings by Matti Braun.

writerly love

Paris, historically considered a city for writers. Where Hemingway, Henry Miller, and so many others found their inspiration and nourished their literary appetites. In modern day too, writers flock to the stillness and serenity of Paris, strolling the same streets and frequenting the same cafes as their much revered predecessors, pen and paper often being replaced by laptop or ipad. One of the many reasons I feel so lucky to live in Paris is not only for it’s writerly setting, but for it’s intimacy. I am fortunate enough to have met and even befriended several of Paris’ 21st century writers. Expats much like myself, living their dreams, and sharing them in written form.

While I have always collected books, (and struggled to read them all), now I too collect authors, becoming intertwined in their lives via their blogs and published work. My latest addition is Ann Mah’s Kitchen Chinese, a book I could not put down, now finding it’s place alongside David LebovitzThe Sweet Life in Paris, Alexander Lobrano’s Hungry for Paris, and Heather Stimmler-Hall’s Naughty Paris: A Lady’s Guide to the Sexy City. All of these not merely authors I admire, but people I have gotten to know during our shared adventures of Paris. David Sedaris I had to include, though I cannot really consider him a friend, we did have a lengthy chat at one of his book signings. Considering he lives in Paris, maybe our paths shall cross again.

I am also fortunate to have friends whose books I shall one day add to my shelves, grateful to have known them before, during and after. Namely, Amy Thomas whose sweet tales of Paris and New York I can’t wait to savour, and Sion Dayson, who too has a riveting book in the works. There are others who for the moment shall remain nameless, added to my collection when they are ready to reveal their stories to the world. Perhaps I too shall be one of them.

fashion forward

Every Paris Fashion Week I have the glamorous good fortune of going to at least one of the fashion shows, défilés de mode as they are called in this part of the world. Always an interesting and often inspiring experience, both for the fashion as well as for the setting. Last year found me at the Galerie de Minéralogie for Amaya Arzuaga with Melissa of Prête Moi Paris. This year the lovely Melissa invited me on another fashion adventure, this one taking place in a boat on the Seine. And for none other than one of my favorite French fashion designers agnès b. The setting alone was magical!

What fashion trends were revealed upon this grand bateau? That the little black dress I often associated with agnès b. is no longer a dress, nor is it black. 

This was only the beginning of what turned out to be a show of colors… and fairytale peasantry?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After what felt like a theatrical performance, the elegance of agnès b. resumed. With a modern twist.

Following one more surprise… Who says the fashion world has no sense of humour?

Agnès herself took a humble strut to a cacophony of applause from a well entertained crowd.

Black is still black.

For more on Paris Fashion Week Spring 2012, take a look at Moon Young Hee and Agonovich!

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