How fortunate I am to live within such close proximity to this 12th-century 850-year-old Gothic masterpiece. In tribute to this sacred lady, rightfully the very heart of Paris set on Île de la Cité, badly damaged in yesterday’s fire but remaining miraculously intact, I share a few thoughts and images from the past nine years. Walking through Notre Dame‘s gardens, or catching a glimpse while returning home from dinner on the left bank, always fills me with a feeling of profound peace. Within her welcoming doors, I become entranced by the history, the spirituality, the sense of belonging.
My first Christmas in Paris, she graced us with midnight mass as we sat in the second row, our spirits soaring high amidst a chorus of blessings. Last year we had the good fortune to watch the annual light show on the cathedral’s facade, what a spectacular sight!
Climbing 422 steps to the top of Notre Dame’s towers, I beheld the most stunning views of Paris. Undoubtedly my favorite vantage point in which to inhale the city, along with the gargoyles.
I can’t count the number of long, leisurely picnics spent on Île Saint-Louis, the bells of Notre Dame Cathedral providing our soundtrack as we admired her glowing beneath the late summer sun.
Cherished memories. Our four-year anniversary photo shoot with Chloe Lodge was shared with this sacred lady.
Whenever I catch sight of Notre Dame Cathedral I know exactly where I am, as she represents the heart of Paris.
This view that I have seen and admired countless times, will forever symbolize Paris to me. I know and pray that the heart of the city will continue to beat, as vibrantly as ever.
Ready to discover the secrets of the Marais? Treasure hunt master Daisy de Plume is at it again! Running until April 17th, stop by Galerie S at 96b rue Beaubourg to pick up a hunt pack and take to the streets of Paris to discover hidden secrets of this historic neighborhood. If you don’t make it to THATMuse Marais, there are plenty of museums in both Paris and London in which you can hunt to your heart’s content! Head over to THATMuse and take your pick. Meanwhile, here are a few scenes (and tips) from the Marais hunt.
First you’ll encounter the French Alice in Wonderland, who’s also a space invader, for those keeping track.
Discover a hidden ivy-clad alleyway that boasts an old umbrella shop. Take note of that yellow umbrella…
Ready to encounter Paris’s oldest stone house? Who lived here other than famous alchemist Nicolas Flamel.
After many a photo-op (which of course earns you extra points) stop by the Stravinsky Fountain for a little graffiti challenge and a look at Dali. Can you spot him?
The THATMuse Marais hunt ends in a magical garden, one that I didn’t even know existed until I went on this Marais adventure. Thank you again for your treasure hunt magic, Daisy de Plume! Now, it’s your turn…
To visit Paris is to fall in love, with the city, with the object of your affection, and above all, with yourself. Anyone who has ever stepped foot in the City of Lights knows that the French capital will charm you to no end. Simply strolling the cobbled streets of the Right or Left Banks is an experience in indulging the senses.
Beyond each historic café-lined corner another secret awaits to be discovered. While the pleasure lies in uncovering your own Parisian treasures, allow me to share a few of my romantic favorites, on the occasion of Valentine’s Day.
Let’s start with chocolate, everyone’s favorite indulgence, non? While there are many artisanal chocolatiers that merit a tasting, it’s Jacques Genin that wins my heart. Maybe it’s because his chocolat chaud is one of the most decadent in Paris, not to mention his famous Paris-Brest, a light pastry with a creamy praline filling. Regardless, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget. Take a seat at his cozy Haut Marais tea salon and order sweets to your heart’s content. And don’t forget to pick up a box of chocolate on your way out. Find my list of other top chocolatiers to taste, here.
Jacques Genin // 133 Rue de Turenne 75003 // Tuesday-Sunday 11-7 // 01 45 77 29 01
Only in Paris will you find the Museum of Romantic Life, better known as the Musée de la Vie Romantique. Once home to painter Ary Scheffer, this was where Parisian intellectuals would meet, to the tunes of Frédéric Chopin playing the piano. Included in their entourage were George Sand, Franz Liszt, and Charles Dickens. Take a walk through this 1830 hôtel particulierand settle into its enchanting garden for lunch by Rose Bakery.
Given the chill of February, where better to spend an afternoon warming up with your loved one than in the heat of a luxurious hammam? Les Cent Ciels is just the place to spoil yourself, and maybe even a date. Revel in a cleansing gommage, where you can soak in the steam for hours, and book a rejuvenating massage for an extra treat. Read about my other favorite hammams here.
Les Cent Ciels // 7 Rue de Nemours 75011 // Hours vary daily // 01 55 28 95 75
Since Paris is also the fashion capital, stop by Galeries Lafayette, one of the most regal department stores in the world. If your heart isn’t into shopping, enjoy the ornate interiors, dating back to the 19th century. These days there’s a 9-meter long glass walkway suspended 16 meters high in mid-air, allowing you an even closer look at the majestic dome. Continue to the top floor for one of the most stunning rooftop views of Paris. Are you in love yet?
The capital of love is also the capital of fine dining. Why not dine in a historic monument? Head to the Gare de Lyon, one of Paris’s seven train stations, and rather than booking a ticket (though that’s always enticing), head up the stairs to Le Train Bleu. Originally created for the Exposition Universelle in 1900, each room represents a different region of France, with 41 paintings lining the richly decorated walls. In 1963, it was coined with its current name and has since then become an address frequented by those with a taste for elegance.
Le Train Bleu // Place Louis-Armand 75012 // Monday-Sunday 7:30-10:30 // 01 43 43 09 06
Regardless of where you find yourself on Valentine’s Day, or any day for that matter, take time to inhale what is so deeply Parisian; strolling from the Right Bank to the Left with no clear destination in mind; stopping at a café terrace for a café crème with a side of people watching; picking up a warm baguette as the scents of freshly baked bread waft through the air. More simply, falling in love with each moment as it finds you.
The art of letter writing may, unfortunately, have ended with the ease of sending emails, but postcards will always be an intimate way to share a faraway journey with those dear to us. I even sent my mom one postcard from every destination I visited during my around-the-world trip of 32 countries, and continue to send them whenever we travel. Equally, I’m always touched to receive a handwritten note from faraway.
When I discovered Guy Thomas Hibbert‘s first book Paris Postcards, I was intrigued. These short stories, set in Paris from the 1920s to the present day, eloquently describe the lives of a motley mix of characters. Upon reading their tales, these Parisians immediately take residence in your mind. Whether it’s a weary soldier finding his way in post-war Paris; a reputable right bank waiter whose status quo life suddenly reveals a twist of fate; an overzealous poet who falls in love with the wrong woman. The thread that weaves all eleven of these short stories together is a mysterious Paris postcard. This postcard proves a clue to each one of these heartfelt compositions. In the words of Hibbert, “In these stories I wanted to explore the mystique of Paris – how it has proved to be such a magnetic draw for romantics, artists, adventurers and lost souls.” And that, he does.
I’m sure this book will become a favorite! If you’re looking for more books about Paris, here are my Paris Picks.
To end the year, I’m sharing a post I wrote for Urbansider, a new Paris insider’s guide that I’m proud to be a part of. As one of their first ‘Urbansiders’ I wrote about my experience of moving to Paris, already nine years ago, and how I slowly but resolutely found my way. I welcome you to read more of my Urbansider articles here.
It was my first week in Paris. A new chapter was about to be written, and it was up to me how the pages would be filled. The late summer sun teased me with endless sunsets in hues of pink and gold. I walked along the Seine wrapped in love, the kind that resides within and often takes years to discover. My journey had taken me around the world and back again, with Paris as my new backdrop, and a soulful Italian center stage.
My thoughts were only of the present moment. What I had lived and
learned years prior was now part of my rich and varied history. This
life that I had often dreamt about was my present. In all truth, a gift.
The future yet unknown, filled with endless possibilities, was waiting
in the wings to reveal itself.
Those first weeks quickly turned into months, as leaves fell and blue
skies turned gray. My mood too, changed with the seasons as I tried to
understand who I was in this new life. More accurately, who did I want
to become? I spent those early days coming to peace with my ego and
listening more acutely to my soul. Paris was the stage on which to set
my dreams in motion, this I was certain of. The question remained, how?
Little by little I found my way, a stranger in a foreign land.
Courage was my guide and humility became my teacher. I began to create a
name for myself, to design my namesake handbags, to write a blog, and
soon afterward to publish articles; to find my place and purpose. In so
doing I became my truest self. And for this, I will be forever grateful
to Paris.
With Paris being the fashion capital and home to so many timeless luxury brands, where better to shop the outlets? Namely those French brands we all covet, including Céline, Longchamp, and Lacoste. Having just returned from La Vallée Village, a 45-minute drive, bur or train ride outside of Paris, I can honestly say this is the most stunning outlet shopping center I’ve had the pleasure to visit and shop at. And with 120 international brands at at least 33% off retail prices, open 7 days a week, what’s not to love?
La Vallée Village resembles an actual village, with tree-lined pedestrian streets and pastel-colored facades.
Here’s a little secret. The famous bi-annual Paris sales or soldes as we call them, begin a week early here!
There are plenty of cafes in which to take a break from the thrill of shopping and find serenity over a plate of Ladurée macarons, or hot chocolate from La Maison du Chocolat. At new restaurant Menu Palais, taste cuisine created by expert chef Stéphane d’Aboville in an elegant setting echoing the Mini Palais in Paris.
La Vallée Village is just as fashionable as its shops, all dressed up in festive decor for the holiday season.
The highlight of my visit, aside from the shopping of course, was the lighting ceremony, in which the myriad of lanterns lit up, along with the dozens of facades lining this shopping village. It was musical group Les Parisiennes that officiated the ceremony, followed by an animated concert. (See the ladies on the balcony?)
If you’re planning your own trip to La Vallée Village, which I highly recommend, the easiest way from Paris is via RER A “Val d’Europe” Station or by Shopping Express® Shuttle Service: twice daily from Place des Pyramides.
