In need of a change of scenery from our Haut Marais neighborhood, we decided to end the year and begin a new one, in southern Portugal. Given the many travel restrictions, this remained one of the safest destinations. And our last trip to Portugal, from cruising down the Duoro to road tripping in the Algarve, left us eager for more.
After a dose of sun and sea at Praia do Meco en route from Lisbon, we settled into our home in Zamujeira do Mar in the Alentejo region. With barely any tourists and very few locals, we explored the rugged coastline.
For an authentic lunch with the locals, we stopped at the neighboring village of Porto Covo followed by a visit to Vila Nova de Milfontes. The latter, filled with charm, quickly became a favorite in the Alentejo region.
Always eager for a road trip, we drove over two hours to the medieval town of Mértola close to the Spanish border. Deserted, this once Islamic open-air museum made for a perfect lunch stop in between rain showers.
Having spent a few scenic nights watching the sunset from our home in Zamujeira do Mar, it was time to continue south to the Algarve. But first, a quick stop at Praia de Odeceixe followed by an eclectic seafood lunch at O Sargo in Praia de Monte Clérigo. Will travel for food!
Our next home, and where we would celebrate the New Year, was the coastal town of Lagos with its rugged cliffs.
Each beach in Lagos looked more wild and dramatic than the last. We hiked our way along the coast, in awe.
The sun-filled week spent in Portugal, from the less touristic Alentejo region to the popular Algarve, filled us both with renewed strength and a positive outlook on the new year, as tough as the months ahead may be.
From Porto we rented a car and hit the road. Our first stop was at the surf town of Nazaré. It’s here where the biggest waves ever surfed can be found, although during our visit the sea could not have been calmer.
Following a heavenly lunch of freshly caught fish at restaurant Taberna da Praia, we continued on to Óbidos. This medieval town just an hour north of Lisbon oozes with charm. As soon as we entered the labyrinth of whitewashed houses trimmed in royal blue and bright yellow, we were smitten. Having arrived just in time for sunset, we walked along the wall surrounding the town and delighted in the scenes that unraveled below.
It was the Moors who fortified Óbidos and inspired the minimalist color palette which fit my design aesthetic perfectly. Needless to say, I couldn’t stop photographing every corner of this town!
Home in Óbidos was at The Literary Man, a boutique hotel boasting 70,000 books, the largest collection of books of any hotel in the world! Following dinner at nearby restaurant Jamon Jamon, we curled up by the fire and dove into a few of these literary treasures.
The following day it was time to leave Óbidos and continue our journey south, but not until we tried their local specialty Ginja, a sweet cherry liquor, perfectly paired with chocolate. Yet another reason to love Óbidos!
We continued the long drive until we reached the Algarve and our home for the next few nights, the small town of Carvoeiro. The views from our B&B were of the limestone cliffs so famous to this region of Portugal. As the sun set we settled into our cozy terrace with a bottle of wine from the Duoro Valley, and took it all in.
Just steps away we discovered hidden gem Praia do Paraiso, also known as Paradise Beach, for good reason.
The next morning we embarked on a journey by foot. I had promised my Italian a hike on this trip, and what better than the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, a total of 18km (10 miles) from our B&B. Did I mention this was not an easy hike? But well worth it for the stunning cliffside views!
Nearly at the end, we stopped for a heavenly (and well deserved lunch) at the only open restaurant we could find, and incidentally one of the best, O Pescador. Soon it would be time to return back along the same path, the cliffs glowing beneath us.
I felt very accomplished as we returned to Carvoeiro and resumed our positions on the terrace as the sun set, wine in hand, ending another memorable day in the sun-drenched Algarve.
It was now time to head to our final destination on these adventures in Portugal. But first, my Italian had a surprise stop up his sleeve, as he often does. We had arrived to Santa Luzia, and much to my pleasure I soon found out this was the “capital of octopus”, their local specialty and my absolute favorite! We had quite a feast at Casa do Polvo, tasting seven different types of octopus dishes. Needless to say, we skipped dinner.
Our last stop, and where we would ring in the new year, was nearby Tavira. This ancient Moorish town is considered the most charming in the Algarve. We settled into Tavira House Hotel and took to exploring the neighborhood.
New Year’s Eve brought with it a live concert, filling the small town with thousands of revelers, and at midnight a show of fireworks lit up the sky. As we had spent the last day of 2018, so we spent the first day of 2019, lounging lazily in the sunshine on one of Tavira’s sandy beaches. My Italian went for a run while I dreamt of our next beach getaway, knowing all too well that a wintry Paris awaited us.
This year for the holidays my Italian and I decided to embark on a new adventure. After becoming enamored with Lisbon while visiting the city two years ago, we vowed to return and explore more of this vibrant country. How better to discover Portugal’s secrets than via a Viking river cruise up and down the Duoro?
The journey began in Lisbon where I was eager to become reacquainted with this dynamic city while discovering more of its treasures.
These included the Belém Tower, built on the Tagus river between 1514 and 1520 under the reign of Manuel I as part of the city’s defense system.
Not far away, our expert guide led us to Jerónimos Monastery, a spectacular 500-year-old masterpiece. This symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery is one of the most visited sights in Lisbon.
The last stop in Lisbon was to The National Azulejo Museum where I learned all about the art of Portuguese tiles. It was the Portuguese that first created mosaics upon their azulejo tiles, as evidenced in these decorative tiles, some dating back to the 15th century. I even had the chance to create my own.
En route to Porto we stopped at the medieval town of Coimbra. Here sits the oldest university in Portugal, and one of the oldest in the world. The University of Coimbra was established in 1290 and is believed to be the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. Walking around this World heritage site, I could see where J.K. Rowling found her inspiration.
It was now time to board our Viking vessel and discover the enchanting Duoro river valley, right from our cabin.
As soon as we left Porto, a magical landscape of vineyards and lush greenery unraveled before our eyes. Sitting aboard the Viking Torgil I became mesmerized by the changing colors as we sailed along the river.
Our first stop along the Duoro was to the majestic Mateus Palace. Built in the early 18th-century, this palace boasts the finest baroque architecture in Portugal. An impressive collection of artifacts and furnishings from around the world fill the interior rooms, including a vast library. Part of the palace is still lived in by the family who own it. The perfectly manicured gardens were modeled after Versailles.
What made this Viking journey even more thrilling was an overnight stop to Salamanca, Spain. I had first visited this historic city as a student and couldn’t wait to explore it again with my Italian in tow.
From the Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1120 to the new Baroque cathedral, both elaborate works of art, to the 13th-century university, Salamanca is filled with architectural riches. Our eyes opened wide as we toured the city with our Viking guide.
I was completely enchanted with the House of Shells as it’s called, now the Public Library of Salamanca. Combining Gothic, Moorish and Italian styles of architecture, this former library constructed in the 15th-century features 400 shells on its exterior facade. Mere decoration or a symbol of love? My theory would be the latter. The views of the cathedral from within this, the oldest library in Europe, were breathtaking!
After touring Salamanca’s university, one of the oldest in the world, it was time to head back to the Viking Torgil just in time to celebrate Christmas in Portugal.
On Christmas Eve we were invited to spend midnight mass at the Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies in Lamego. We were moved by attending mass in this church dedicated to Mary, the Mother of Jesus. For Christmas day we returned to this sacred church, walking the 686 steps down to the village, admiring the azulejos along the way.
After many days and nights spent along the Duoro river, it was time to return to where the journey first began, and discover the vibrant city of Porto.
Needless to say, it was love at first sight. I couldn’t wait to become better acquainted with Porto’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
From views of Porto from above, where a Viking guide educated us on the history of the city, to the São Bentotrain station where 20,000 azulejo tiles tell many a story, to the Ribeira neighborhood for a dose of shopping. We eagerly took it all in, returning to our Viking cabin where we could enjoy Porto city views by night.
After two days in Porto, our wondrous Viking cruise had come to an end and we prepared to head south, this time traveling by land. Stay tuned for part two of our adventures in Portugal…
A quick 40-minute train ride from Lisbon lands you in the picturesque town of Sintra, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were immediately taken with the romantic landscape. Following a path away from the masses of tourists, we found a picture perfect lunch spot overlooking the Palace of Sintra, built by the Moors in the Middle Ages. With only an afternoon, we chose two fairy tale scenes to discover.
Our first stop was the Moorish Castle, or what looks like the setting for Game of Thrones. This military fort was built just before the 10th century by the North African Moors. After falling into disrepair, is was restored by King Ferdinand II in the 19th century, and has since become a major tourist attraction.
We walked its lengthy walls and up its watchtowers. From a distance the Pena Palace was visible, our next stop.
The Park and Palace of Pena make up the most important part of Sintra’s cultural landscape. Arriving to this architectural marvel, it’s easy to understand why. The brightly colored palace is a balance of nature meets 19th century Portuguese Romanticism. In a word, stunning! I quickly learned that it was rebuilt after an earthquake destroyed this former 18th century monastery. It was King Ferdinand II who transformed it into a palace, creating the summer residence of the Portuguese royal family. We spent the rest of the afternoon discovering the elaborate interior while marveling at the exterior facades. What an extraordinary work of art!
While we could certainly have stayed overnight in Sintra, I was happy to head back to Lisbon and continue our adventure. All the while during our return I wondered, how quickly could we return to Portugal?
We had been planning a trip to Lisbon for years, even before it became the city to visit. Somehow Italy and Spain always took precedence, until recently. A week ago we set off to discover a city, country and culture neither of us had yet experienced. We had no idea what to expect on this three-day jaunt to Portugal. All we knew was that Lisbon would not disappoint.
We arrived to our historic hotel in the Baixa district and began our tour, map in hand. Lisbon is by all accounts a walking city if you don’t mind the hilly cobbled streets. The views are worth the hike up!
A popular mode of transport in Lisbon, and one of my favorites, is the tram, dating back to the 1930s. This is definitely an experience, particularly tram 28 which snakes its way along many of Lisbon’s most vibrant districts. Tourists line up for the ride up the steep hill from Baixa to São Jorge Castle and Alfama district. We opted to walk and hop on at a later stop.
We spent an entire day exploring, or rather, getting lost in the Alfama district, a tangle of streets that come alive in the evenings with traditional Fado music. This quickly became our favorite area, along with the historic Bairro Alto and trendy Principe Real where we discovered local restaurants and fashionable boutiques.
I often had to stop and admire the glazed tiles lining many of the buildings. Inspiration for a future bag collection? These azulejos as they are called locally, originated in Egypt but it’s the Portuguese that use them most creatively. The Tile Museum just outside the city center, details five centuries of these decorative tiles.
What we discovered while wandering the city was how friendly and happy most people appeared to be. The atmosphere in Lisbon was light and welcoming. We also happened to be there on April 25th, their Freedom Day celebrating the 1974 Revolution that ended the dictatorship and started democracy. Even more reason for the locals to take pride in their capital city.
SLEEP: Alma Lusa translates to “Portuguese soul”, and AlmaLusa Hotel has exactly that. This family run boutique hotel opened in 2016, perfectly positioned in the Baixa district, close to many of Lisbon’s attractions. Our luxurious room with a view of city hall was once a Moroccan showroom, with select elements still intact.
EAT LOCAL: A pleasant surprise was O Cantinho da Rosa in Bairro Alto where we stopped for lunch. It was clear that locals were the main clients of this charming canteen. Never before have I tasted fresh sardines grilled to perfection! The dishes are ample, and the dessert is heavenly. Another local gem near Alfama is Zé da Mouraria.
EAT GOURMET: For innovative brasserie style dining Delfina is the spot. Elegantly set within the AlmaLusa hotel, their traditional Bacalhau dish is a must! Paired with local wines of course. If you’re in the mood for prime locally farmed meat, head directly to Vicente by Carnalentejana. The cave-like decor too is impressive!
EAT SWEETS: A trip to Lisbon isn’t complete without tasting the famous Pastel de nata, a Portuguese egg tart pastry. You can find some of the best at Manteigaria in the Time Out Market. Along with gelato and anything else your heart desires, both sweet and savory. There are even cooking classes offered.
DRINK: We happened to be in town during Lisbon’s first ever Cocktail Week. With so many bars (and very little time) we opted for rooftop views from recently opened Topo. I’ve also heard that Gin Lovers is another hot spot. Next time.
VISIT: One of the main attractions is São Jorge Castle, positioned on top of the city and restored in the 20th century. Belém Tower, a fortified tower and the Jerónimos Monastery not far from Lisbon are popular sights that we left for our next visit. We decided instead to take the train to the town of Sintra. Stay tuned…
