This year I finally made it to Strasbourg for a glimpse at this city that really knows how to dress up for the holidays. A stroll through Strasbourg’s Christmas markets (open from November 26th to December 26th) invites into the holiday spirit of the city. The oldest in France and one of the first in Europe, these markets date back to 1570. With over 300 merchants spread throughout the city center, stalls line the famous Strasbourg Cathedral where chiming bells mingle with Christmas tunes. The soundtrack alone sets a holiday mood.
Each of the thirteen markets – scattered along the river and filling city squares – reveals its own charm, with limitless arrays of gifts and goodies. Along with festive decorations that bring a touch of Strasbourg home, discover artisanal pottery and locally crafted jewelry, handmade toys and knitwear for children, and even scented candles and beauty products.
Whether simply inhaling the sights and sounds of Christmas in the Alsace or shopping for stocking stuffers, take a petite pause to taste all the delicacies that Strasbourg is best known for. Tarte flambée, anyone?
A visit to Domaine de Primard nestled on the banks of the Eure River just one hour from Paris makes for the ideal hideaway. This recent addition to Les Domaines de Fontenille’s bespoke hotel collection – launched in 2013 by Frederic Biousse and Guillaume Foucher – is one of their most enchanting. Set upon a sprawling 40-hectare country estate, welcome to a slower and more sustainable life. As Biousse and Foucher put it, a “meaningful, convivial and joyful” home away from home.
Wake up to a soundtrack of birdsong in one of 30 artfully decorated rooms or a plush suite. A moment of reflection on your private terrace can set a perfect mood for the day. The ground-floor living spaces invite you to cozy up with a good book or admire the carefully curated artwork. Whimsical details through the vast space including sculptural snails, birds and mushrooms, each playfully paying homage to nature. Multi-starred Chef Éric Frechon in unison with Chef Yann Meinsel respect the fruitful surroundings with their seasonal menus, both at the bistro Octave and the gastronomic restaurant Églantine. Many of the vegetables and herbs omnipresent in the dishes are homegrown and hand-picked. You’ll quickly understand why the creatively refined cuisine at Églantine is “as much for the taste buds as for the eyes.”
A stroll through the gardens with over 250 varieties of blooming roses is a treat for the senses. This fragrant setting created 30 years ago by renowned landscaper Jacques Hertz remains as he left it. Meanwhile, the neighboring greenhouse with its antique knick-knacks and gardening tools is as curious as it is charming. Take note of the hundred-year-old trees while exploring the rest of the bucolic grounds, equally enjoyed by the estate’s horses and cows.
Relaxing takes on many forms at Domaine de Primard. Take your pick from an invigorating spa treatment using all-natural products by Suzanne Kaufmann, a walk in the neighboring woods or a swim in the heated outdoor pool. However you choose to spend your time, you’re invited to end your day by the lakeside guinguette-style bar for an evening aperitif, happily disconnected. There’s no doubt that this new chapter of an 18th-century home once belonging to Catherine Deneuve reads as a harmonious one.
This story about a rural retreat just an hour from Paris was originally published in France Magazine.
In need of a change of scenery from our Haut Marais neighborhood, we decided to end the year and begin a new one, in southern Portugal. Given the many travel restrictions, this remained one of the safest destinations. And our last trip to Portugal, from cruising down the Duoro to road tripping in the Algarve, left us eager for more.
After a dose of sun and sea at Praia do Meco en route from Lisbon, we settled into our home in Zamujeira do Mar in the Alentejo region. With barely any tourists and very few locals, we explored the rugged coastline.
For an authentic lunch with the locals, we stopped at the neighboring village of Porto Covo followed by a visit to Vila Nova de Milfontes. The latter, filled with charm, quickly became a favorite in the Alentejo region.
Always eager for a road trip, we drove over two hours to the medieval town of Mértola close to the Spanish border. Deserted, this once Islamic open-air museum made for a perfect lunch stop in between rain showers.
Having spent a few scenic nights watching the sunset from our home in Zamujeira do Mar, it was time to continue south to the Algarve. But first, a quick stop at Praia de Odeceixe followed by an eclectic seafood lunch at O Sargo in Praia de Monte Clérigo. Will travel for food!
Our next home, and where we would celebrate the New Year, was the coastal town of Lagos with its rugged cliffs.
Each beach in Lagos looked more wild and dramatic than the last. We hiked our way along the coast, in awe.
The sun-filled week spent in Portugal, from the less touristic Alentejo region to the popular Algarve, filled us both with renewed strength and a positive outlook on the new year, as tough as the months ahead may be.
Santorini is an island close to my heart. It was here on the caldera in the alluring village of Oia where my Italian proposed and where we began our Greek island-hopping honeymoon almost ten years ago. This visit found us happily secluded in the more intimate cliffside village of Imerovigli.
Home became the heavenly boutique cave hotel Iconic Santorini. Our room on the edge of the cliff looked out over the azure waters of the Aegean far below. The setting of a dream!
We quickly settled into our luxurious room with a view, sinking into our private jacuzzi followed by a holistic massage at the hotel spa. After all, holistic comes from the Greek word ‘holos’ meaning whole.
Our first idyllic day at Iconic Santorini ended at their Pergola Restaurant, dining on gourmet Greek dishes.
It was difficult to leave our newfound utopia to explore the rest of the island. With many fewer people than in Oia and neighboring Fira, Imerovigli proved the perfect village in which to avoid the crowds, even though this year was quieter than most. Having already visited much of Santorini on previous visits, we decided to enjoy the views, and the pool, instead.
Our sojourn at Iconic Santorini confirmed our deep affection for this uniquely mystical island, undoubtedly one of the most romantic destinations in the world.
Following a walk to the village of Fira just one kilometer from Imerovigli, it was time to leave Santorini, knowing that we would return. We always do.
My first trip to Amorgos, the setting of the famed film The Big Blue (Le GrandBleu as it’s known in France), was during my very first journey to the Greek Islands ten years ago. Those who have been reading this blog from the beginning will remember that upon meeting my Italian, he promised me Greece. What he didn’t promise, and for what I’m most grateful, was that we would return again and again, each visit an intoxicating experience of a shared passion for Greece. Those who share this passion, know well the feeling.
While during our first visit to Amorgos we explored much of the island, there’s always more to discover. Opting to stay near the port of Aegiali, our first swim was at neighboring Levrossos beach, a quick boat ride away.
Once we acquired a set of wheels, rocky Mouros beach, only frequented by a select few, became paradise found.
Always eager to explore, we drove up to the Chora, one of the most picturesque villages of the Cyclades.
The seasonal Meltemi winds at full speed during our early evening in the Chora, we mingled with the locals and few tourists on the island, reminded of why late August and September are our favorite months to visit.
Another stellar address from the same friend, who we met with during both visits to Amorgos (leave it to the universe!), was hilltop restaurant Kamára above the small village of Potamos. From here we viewed the most spectacular sunset.
The setting for our very own Le Grande Bleu became Nikouria beach. The small uninhabited island of Nikouria boasting crystal clear waters as far as the eye could see was reachable only via boat from Agios Pavlos.
Before leaving Amorgos, we stopped at Katapola, the island’s other port where we feasted on freshly caught fish and local specialties. Maybe we’ll stay here next time, we thought. And yes, there definitely will be a next time. But now our sights were set on Santorini.
Every trip to Greece includes at least one new island discovery. This time we were eager to explore one of the most secluded of the Greek Islands, Astypalea. This would become my 15th Greek island and my Italian’s 20th, but who’s counting. An 8-hour ferry ride from Athen’s Port of Piraeus, this butterfly-shaped island sits in the Dodecanese but equally shares the characteristic charm of the Cyclades.
From the moment we arrived and made our way to the Chora, I was smitten with the island’s unaffected beauty.
Those equally familiar with the Greek islands know that each possesses a unique feeling and energy. The more acquainted we became with Asypalea, the more we both became enchanted with its laid back elegance.
The Chora in Astypalea revealed a series of tangled streets leading to hilltop bars and restaurants. Some of our favorites for local Greek food included Kouklas and Ageri in the Chora, Akrogiali near the port, and Almyra in Maltazena, where the fish was some of the freshest we tasted.
From the very top of Astypalea’s Chora sit the remains of a Venetian castle boasting majestic views of the sea.
Part of the adventure when arriving at a new island is deciding where to stay. With the vast number of hotels and apartments to rent, options are plentiful. Just above the port we first settled into the charming family-run Belvedere Studios, followed by secluded boutique hotel Studios Kilindra high up in the Chora where every morning breakfast was accompanied by roosters crowing.
Another unique feature of each Greek island is its beaches. Astypalea boasts some of the most crystal clear waters we’ve even swam in. Our first beach adventure was to the uninhabited island of Konoupia, which we reached via sail boat.
It was hill-lined Vatses, with its trendy taverna, no WiFi connection, and only a dozen thatched umbrellas, that became our favored Greek beach paradise.
The wildest and most difficult beach to reach, as the road was barely paved and proved a very bumpy ride, was Kaminakia, a reward upon arrival. Another treat was dining on family cooking at the single taverna.
Whenever we travel in Greece, I always take time to explore the artisanal side of each island and discover the local designers. I was thrilled to find beautiful boutique Art in Pelago, whose selection of jewelry, crafts and sleeping cats was one-of-a-kind.
While we could have easily spent another week dining in the inviting restaurants, mingling with the adopted locals and driving from one wild beach to another, it was time to return to island hopping.
