adventures down south

August 23, 2014

In mid-August my Italian and I decided to do like the Parisians, leave Paris to the tourists, and venture south. I had heard a lot about the unpretentious charm of France’s Cap Ferret, and was eager to discover it for myself. It has been likened to Montauk, the most unspoilt part of the Hamptons, where I grew up. Our first stop was lunch in a rainy but elegant Bordeaux. I know little of this city, this being my second visit, but look forward to becoming better acquainted in the future.

Rather than head directly to this trendy enclave, we stopped in Arcachon for a few days. Just enough time to meet with friends and climb the highest sand dunes in all of Europe.

The Dune du Pilat measures 107 meters high and I felt rather accomplished reaching the top!

We spent the afternoon climbing, jumping, running… and sitting beneath the late summer sun.

Our next stop was Cap Ferret. We settled in with a plate of oysters, local wine, and a view.

The dominant mode of transport is by bike. And that is how we explored this little French paradise.

I could immediately understand why it was compared to Montauk with it’s chic yet relaxed vibe.

After many great meals including at the highly revered Chez Hortense, it was time to bid adieu.

Via boat and train we made our way back to Paris filled with sounds and tastes of the sea.

Auvers-sur-Oise

August 7, 2014

This past spring when my mom came to visit, I thought about where to bring her. Last year we had explored Chantilly, and while it would have been a lovely time of year to visit Giverny, I opted to be more creative and we ventured to Auvers-sur-Oise. This commune, only about 27 kilometers northwest of Paris, was once home to the Impressionists. More specifically, Paul Cézanne, Charles-François Daubigny, Camille Pissarro, Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot and, Vincent van Gogh.

This was a trip into Van Gogh’s life. It was incredible to be amidst the church that he once painted.

It is here that he rests alongside his brother Theo, who passed away only 6 months after Vincent.

The next stop was Château d’Auvers where we discovered a most insightful interactive journey into the lives of the Impressionists. A unique experience! Not to mention the breathtaking gardens…

As the sun was setting we walked the length of the estate, reflecting on years long gone.

It was time to bid farewell to Auvers-sur-Oise. Like the artists before us, we headed back to Paris.

lost at sea

July 15, 2014

For the last 10 days I’ve been hiding out in Cinque Terre with friends and family. Did I realize that when I met my Italian, this enchanting land would become my home? No, but I am lucky that it is. Though I am most familiar with Monterosso, I love to explore the other villages whenever possible. On an overcast day, we decided to venture by train to Vernazza, considered by many the most spectacular. It will soon be 3 years since the flood, and the village looked more colorful than ever.

This time we walked the many steps up to Castello Doria and the views were breathtaking!

After happily discovering a local shop to sell my bags, and an aperitif with a view at Gianni Franzi’s new terrace, we headed home to Monterosso. For more photos of our days in Italy, click here.

eating adventures

May 21, 2014

During my around the world travels I’ve experienced many eating adventures, from street food in Vietnam to yak in Tibet. And let’s not forget bone marrow in China and lardo in Italy. (Delicious!) But I have to admit, the most fun I’ve ever had eating was in San Sebastián. This foodie mecca is home to two of the best restaurants in the world, but what we were after were the pinxtos, the Basque version of tapas. The old quarter is filled with pinxtos bars, dozens lining every street, all attempting to entice you with an array of these taste bites lining the counters.

On our first night we followed our feelings as my Italian would say, or was it our eyes and mouths. And with each bar a glass of rioja or local cider. In less than 24 hours I was hooked!

Day two we did a little research and discovered that our feelings, and palates, had led us well. The eating adventures continued as we were determined to try as many pinxtos bars as possible.

By day three, we had eaten at nearly a dozen pinxtos bars, drank many a glass of local wine, over-indulged in calamari and octopus and I even convinced my Italian to try pigs ears. It being our last day, we decided to return to our favorite bars. For those planning a trip to San Sebastián (which I highly recommend for anyone who loves to eat) here is the list of pinxtos bars that will keep us coming back. I’m already looking forward to the next trip!

Bar Zeruko : most innovative and experimental of the pinxtos bars

Atari Gastroteka : the gastronomic version of pinxtos

Borda Berri + La Cuchara de San Telmo : pinxtos made fresh to order (both run by same owner)

Bar Sport : don’t let the name of lack of ambiance fool you!

La Viña : home to the best cheesecake in the world!

The only rule to remember when pinxtos bar-hopping, the more napkins on the floor, the better!

a work of art

May 14, 2014

My ideal holiday includes good art and gourmet food. Simple, no? When we decided to embark on adventures in the Basque Country, I knew there would be plenty of both. Our first stop on this whirlwind weekend away was Bilbao, which means the Guggenheim. I had dreamed of visiting this Frank Gehry masterpiece since it’s inauguration in 1997. Finally, it was time.

I was in awe as we reached the museum, it’s scale-like facade illuminated beneath a cloudy sky.

Every angle of the grand edifice uniquely reflecting the light.

Anish Kapoor’s impressive Tall Tree & The Eye standing tall, and observing keenly.

Jeff Koons’ Tulips filled the outdoor space with color.

Throughout the day, as the light changed, so too did the reflections.

One of the most interesting pieces was Louise Bourgeois’ Maman, a larger than life spider.

What made me the happiest was Richard Serra’s The Matter of Time, a permanent installation of eight sculptures by this artist whose work I have admired for years. What luck to find him in Bilbao!

Ernesto Neto, a Brazilian artist, was new to me. I enjoyed experiencing his work, quite literally.

Yoko Ono too, was a featured artist, along with her wishing tree. Yes, we made a few wishes!

We spent most of the day within and around this museum, itself a work of art. Unforgettable.

But it was now time for San Sebastián, or Donostia to the locals. The beach and pinxtos awaited…

Naples top 5

May 1, 2014

Everyone loves Italy, the food, the people, the easy going feeling… But when it comes to Naples, what I consider ‘real Italy‘, those who haven’t yet ventured to this city in the south are often fearful of it. It is really so dangerous I wondered? Will I get mugged upon landing and should I even bring a camera? Shortly after moving to Paris my Italian and I took a trip to Naples and Capri, a perfect contrast of dark and light. At once, I became enamored with the chaos and vitality of Naples, or was it the food? My Italian promised that we would return. Finally, almost 4 years later, we did.

This time we were joined by our friends Suzanne and Jeremy, armed with a list of Napolitan specialties both sweet and savory. We headed directly to our hotel in the Spanish Quarter, an area braved by few, hidden within narrow streets. And there began our adventure, and my Naples top 5.

#1: GET LOST. The city is composed of a maze of streets, and getting lost is par for the course.

#2: WALK TO THE TOP. Along the coast we passed the Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle) and headed up to the Certosa di San Martino (Carthusian Monastery), perched atop the Vomero hill. There we discovered a museum with a vast collection opf Spanish and Bourbon era artifacts, as well as some of the finest Nativity scenes in the world.

The views from there was breathtaking, highlighted by majestic Mount Vesuvius.

#3: LEARN HISTORY. On our first trip to Naples we spent an afternoon at Pompeii. On this trip, we decided to explore the lesser known and smaller, but equally important, Ercolano (Herculaneum).

Part two of our history lesson was spent at the National Archaeological Museum, the most important in all of Italy.

#4: EAT! This perhaps being the most important of the 5, being in the city where pizza originated. And where to find the pizza to top them all? At Da Michele. Trust me.

10003942_10154027585470254_1636954526295859952_n Some of my favorite local spots in the Spanish Quarter being Antica Capri and Hosteria Toledo.

And then there is the coffee and sweets… La Sfogliatella Mary being the best for local specialties.

#5: SHOP. Naples is famous for it’s tailors, thus making it an ideal shopping destination for the stylish man, more so than for women. My Italian bought a new wardrobe, I bought lingerie.

It was a memorable three days in a city that leaves an impression, and keeps you coming back.

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