Weekend in Madrid

The first time I visited Madrid was many years ago during the university years. I decided it was time to return to the Spanish capital. On this sojourn, rather than solely play tourist, I wanted to discover the many eclectic neighborhoods and the local food scene.

SLEEP: Our journey began at Bless Hotel Madrid in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. This design-savvy boutique hotel recently celebrated its first birthday. From this location nearby to El Retiro Park we could explore much of Madrid by foot or hop on a metro. Here too we dined at one of the culinary capital’s most gourmet addresses, Michelin-starred chef Martín Berasateguis restaurant, Etxeko. Meaning “at home” in Basque, the tasting menu was a heavenly gastronomic experience from both land and sea.

EAT: Fifteen minutes away by foot we explored the colorful Chueca neighborhood, quick to become a favorite district. San Antón Market, a three three-floor food hall offers dozens of dining options, both Spanish and international, along with a rooftop bar. Modern tapas bar Baco y Beto proved a favorite dinner spot. Closer to the hotel, La Maruca restaurant was another stellar address.

SHOP (AND EAT): On Sundays, El Rastro flea market takes over the historic La Latina neighborhood. Filled with local artisans and vintage stalls, an entire afternoon can be devoted to treasure hunting. In between shopping, some of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars entice with their simple offerings. Casa Amadeo is famous for their escargot, while Bar Santurce specializes in freshly grilled sardines. A more gourmet tapas experience was enjoyed at restaurant Juana La Loca.

VISIT: Our tour of Madrid’s most famous sights took us from Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square reconstructed in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva and unchanged since, to the Royal Palace, home to centuries-old collections of paintings, furniture, and armor. Nearby landmark Teatro Real of Madrid was once a leading theater in Europe. Next time we’ll book tickets to the opera.

WATCH: In the country where flamenco originated, we set our sights on a lively street performance in an inviting city square. For a more authentic experience, Corral de la Morería dating back to 1956 is the oldest locale in Madrid. Another notable address is Torres Bermejas.

With only a few days to bask in the culture of Madrid, there’s much more left to see and to taste. We’ll be back!

New Year in Sicily

The beginning of the new year, and the start of a new decade, found us in Palermo. This was our third trip to Sicily, each one leaving us more enchanted with this Italian island. Rich in both history and breathtaking landscapes, not to mention the food, Sicily is easy to fall in love with. Before heading to the capital city, we stopped for lunch in the small town of Mazara del Vallo followed by Sciacca where we settled for a few days.

This fishing port town known for its ceramics proved to be a little gem with a lot of potential. Home was the most charming B&B overlooking the port. Restaurant Stranizze, also a winery, proved a top dining spot.

Close by to Sciacca we visited a limestone cliff that took the appearance of stairs. Of course, we climbed up.

The next stop was nearby to Sicily’s most famous Greek ruins, the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. This awe-inspiring UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest archaeological site in the world, includes the remains of seven temples dating back to the 5th-century BC.

It was nearing New Year’s Eve and time to head to our main and final destination, the city of Palermo. While we have explored much of the island from Ortigia to Taormina and Trapani to Cefalù to Ragusa (and back to Ortigia), we had yet to discover Palermo, home to the famous cathedral, an architectural marvel from medieval Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque.

SLEEP: We settled into Eurostars Centrale Palace, a historic palace in the city center, just steps away from Piazza Pretoria and within walking distance to most of Palermo’s attractions. New Year’s Eve dinner was spent at another regal address, the palatial home of Guiseppi Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of The Leopard. 18th-century Butera 28 in the beautiful Kalsa neighborhood also offers apartments for rent.

EAT: With so many fine dining options in Palermo, we chose wisely, and were not disappointed. Included in our top dining experiences is Caponata, helmed by young chef Giuliano Blasi who will leave you impressed by his experimental cuisine whose preparation you can observe via the open kitchen. Another noteworthy address is Osteria Ballarò where you can feast on house specialties or opt for street food including famous panelle, or chickpea fritters. For the most authentic taste of the latter, head to Dainotti at the Capo market.

VISIT: With churches and palaces on nearly every corner in Palermo, there’s a lot of see. Worthy of a visit are Abatellis Palace, featuring the largest collection of Romanesque to Baroque artwork in Sicily, and the imposing Butera Palace. We also spent an afternoon discovering the Baroque-style Church of Saint Catherine, also a living monastery to a group of nuns until 2014. Along with stunning views from the church’s rooftop, head to the ground floor bakery to indulge in original sweet recipes, “I segreti del Chiostro” (The secrets of the cloister). The cannoli is the best I’ve ever tasted! For a cassata, one of the best bakery’s is Pasticceria Costa.

To discover Palermo with an expert guide, contact Elisabetta Gulizzi who gave us an in-depth tour of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, a majestic Baroque church in the midst of the Capo market. With so much more to see, visit, and taste, Palermo hasn’t seen the last of us yet.

Weekend in Bath

I haven’t become this smitten with a city in a long time. As soon as we arrived in Bath, I knew there was something uniquely ethereal about this, the largest city in the county of Somerset, just 12 miles from Bristol. Bath became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 due to its Roman history and famous Roman Baths, which I couldn’t wait to discover. But first, it was time to explore the city and get lost in its historic and hilly maze.

SLEEP: Our home in Bath was at the most quirky luxurious address in town. A Georgian townhouse, No 15 Great Pulteney hotel charmed at every cozy corner, from our well-appointed room to The Sitting Room and Bar 15 where we imbibed on craft cocktails, to The Dispensary, a design haven serving up a decadent seasonal menu. It was here too where one of Bath’s famous Sunday lunches is served, easily becoming an all-day affair. Spa 15 was an experience alone worthy of a stay at No 15 Great Pulteney. My treatment room was covered in curious sock art and the hot tub provided the perfect post-massage bliss.

EAT: The search of a gastropub led us to The Chequers where I happily dined on a hearty plate of fish and chips. For the next feast on this traditional dish, we’ll head straight to The Scallop Shell which has been voted the best in the UK. On Saturday, we headed to the Bath Farmers’ Market set in Green Park Station where local food producers sold freshly baked goods and produce from the Somerset countryside.

DRINK: Tipped off by a local, the nocturnal hours found us at The Dark Horse. This reservation-only cocktail bar is both moody and melodic, with dark wood interiors and a menu of bespoke cocktails to choose from.

We could have easily spent every day exploring this historic city and attempting to learn its many secrets. But there were Roman Baths to discover.

VISIT: Overlooking the Bath Abbey, the Roman Baths are a sight to behold. After being invaded by the Romans in 43AD, this religious spa complex was constructed by 75AD, referred to as Aquae Sulis, “the waters of Sulis”.

People from all over came to bathe in this religious spa and worship at the temple, believing that Goddess Sulis Minerva possessed curative powers. Each wing of this massive complex contained hammams, hot and cold dipping pools and relaxation rooms. Still today the city’s thermal springs rise and the Baths still flow with natural hot water. We even took a sip.

Next door to the bathing complex, the museum includes a gilt bronze head of the Goddess Sulis Minerva and other Roman artefacts.

When it came time to bid farewell to Bath, we made a vow to soon return to this city that captured our hearts.

A Taste of Tuscany

Every October we head to the Italian Riviera for a little off-season sea and sun, and sometimes the olive harvest. This time we left Liguria for a taste of Tuscany. The first stop on this whirlwind trip that my Italian so carefully planned was to the medieval town of Campiglia Marittima. While exploring this centuries-old hilltop town along the Etruscan Coast, I felt as though we had entered a deserted movie set. Were we the only actors?

Stopping for espresso in the town square, we skipped the Archaeology Museum and the Mineral Museum set within the 13th century Palazzo Pretorio and headed up to the archaeological ruins.

It was here that traces of pre-medieval settlements were left to discover, including a Romanesque window.

After getting lost in the sleepy streets, we left Campiglia Marittima for a smaller and more remote destination.

We drove along scenic Tuscan roads overlooking the Gulf of Baratti until we approached a gated stone wall. The only Etruscan village by the sea, the undisputably charming Populonia is home to 18 year-round residents.

After a decadent lunch at the best spot in town, family-run Osteria La Torre di Populonia, we skipped the Etruscan Museum and headed up to the castle where 360 degree views awaited us.

While I inhaled the views, my Italian pointed out the distant islands of Elba, Corsica, Capraia and Gorgona.

We bid farewell to Populonia and made one last stop along a cypress-lined road to pick up wine in Bolgheri.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

A few weeks ago I returned to Provence for an experience in wellness. This time home was luxury lodging Le Saint-Remy in the heart of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The purpose of this trip, other than discovering this charm-ridden historic village where the sun shines year-round, was to try the five-star hotel’s new detox program. With no coffee or rosé wine on the menu, this might prove a challenge.

After settling into my spacious, well-appointed room with a view of the sunlit terrace, the detox program began.

Following a healthy but decadent lunch, I lounged by the pool, waiting for my consultation with a Professor of Chinese Medicine. What makes the spa at Le Saint Remy so unique is the focus on Tui Na, one of the oldest massage techniques in the world. The focus is not merely on relaxation but on an increase in energy and overall well-being.

Feeling rejuvenated after my Tui Na massage, a meditation and a lesson in Qi Gong, a gentle 3,000-year-old exercise that stretches the body and increases blood circulation, I set out to explore the village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The weekly market also captured my attention.

The streets were lined with pastel colored cafes, boutiques and art galleries, setting a perfect Provençal scene.

Close to the captivating landscapes of the Massif des Alpilles mountain range, an eclectic bike tour was on the agenda. What a scenic and not too strenuous ride along the winding paths! My reward was a stunning view of the village of Les Baux-de-Provence in the distance.

After three days of healthy gourmet dining, daily Tui Na massages, invigorating activities and only a sip of rosé (it’s Provence after all) I returned home filled with vitality. Thankfully, I could continue Tui Na in Paris.

La Mirande in Avignon

Not yet ready to head back to Paris after so many magical days cruising the Rhone River, I reserved the most breathtaking address in Avignon of a last night of luxury. We arrived to hotel La Mirande in the heart of this historic city and immediately fell in love with this palatial address.

Upon opening the curtains in our room, we discovered the most stunning view of the Popes’ Palace. This medieval Gothic fortress and palace was the seat of Western Christianity in the 14th century.

We quickly made ourselves at home in the outdoor patio, led by the hotel’s mascot, a cat named Mirande.

This 5-star hotel revealed even more magnificence within the refurbished quarters of this private home dating back to the 14th century, where cardinals once took residence.

Paying respect to the unique 18th and 19th-century design elements, Hotel La Mirande was brought back to life.

The breakfast room appeared as though from a fairy tale. But it was dinner that transported us to another era.

Little did we know what awaited us at Guest Table, a 4-course dinner prepared by Chef Séverine Sagnet.

Beginning with an apéritif in La Mirande’s wine cellar, we made a toast with guests from around the world.

A communal wooden table for thirteen was set in the family kitchen, a wood-burning stove ready to cook our farm to table meal as we feasted on the first course. Memories were shared and friendships made during this extraordinary dining experience. Next time I plan to dine at their one Michelin star restaurant helmed by Chef Florent Pietravalle, as well as book the cooking class and learn a few culinary tricks.

While staying at La Mirande, we spent the day visiting neighboring Popes’ Palace and legendary Pont d’Avignon.

There was no better place to call home on our last days of such an epic trip from Lyon to the South of France.

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