Lyon to Avignon

How better to discover Provence than via river cruise with Viking? This year for my mom’s birthday, I planned this special trip to a region of France she had not yet visited but often dreamed about. Undoubtedly she would fall in love with the charm of the south during this week-long journey along the Rhône, beginning in Lyon. Not to mention the long, leisurely dinners, terrace views and courses in local culture at every port. Having traveled to Portugal with Viking last winter, I knew she was in for a treat!

Our Viking voyage began in mid-June, perfectly timed for the lavender fields, in bloom only three weeks a year. But first, Lyon, France’s third-largest city and the grandest cultural mecca outside of Paris.

Strolling through Old Lyon, we admired the Renaissance architecture, noted the top restaurants, Lyon being the gastronomic capital of France after all, and took shortcuts through the connecting passages called traboules.

Our Viking guide even took us to the top of Fourvière Hill where the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière stood.

Lyon situated not far from Beaujolais Wine Country, Mom and I decided to indulge in a tasting. We arrived to family-run Château de Nervers, charmed by the restored castle they call home, and sipped an array of wines, favoring a bottle of 2013 Brouilly.

It was time now to set sail, our next stop Vienne, one of the oldest cities in France. Founded by the Romans thanks to Julius Caesar, and once serving as Rome’s major wine port, the city remained rich in Roman monuments. The temple of Augustus & Livia, built around 20-10 BC and dedicated to Emperor Augustus, stood proudly in the old square as if transported directly from Rome.

The following day found us facing the impressive 16th-century Château de Tournon in Tournon-sur-Rhône.

It was here that we truly stepped back into history when we boarded the Tournon Steam Train which carried us on a ride through the scenic landscapes of the Ardeche. The locomotive chugged along the tracks revealing stunning views of the Doux gorges. What a wild ride!

One of the most sleepy towns we encountered along the way was 5th century Viviers. Taking a guided night tour through the cobbled streets and buildings dating back to the Middle Ages proved an awe-inspiring and mystical experience.

The next stop in Provence was the history-laden pastel-hued city of Arles, often called “Little Rome of Gaul”.

Their ancient amphitheater seating as many as 20,000 spectators is still in use for events including bullfights.

Vincent Van Gogh settled in this artist’s haven for a just over a year after leaving Paris. We stopped to admire the cafe famous for his Café Terrace at Night painting from 1888. In a hotel just next door, Picasso was often a guest.

Not far away from Arles sits the hilltop village of Les Baux-de-Provence. I had already become smitten with it on a previous visit and wanted my mom to experience its unique charm. We also stopped by Carrières de Lumières for the most stunning light show in a former quarry featuring Van Gogh. Magical!

It was now time to inhale the sweet scent of lavender on our full-day trip to these freshly blooming fields.

From the Lavender Museum to a working lavender farm, we learned all about the differences between lavender and lavandin, the many uses of both, and how lavender is harvested to produce essential oil. Our dreams would remain lavender scented for months to come!

Along the route, we stopped at the tiny village of Monieux for lunch at the only restaurant in town. Could this week-long journey have been any more breathtaking? Both mom and I were filled with memories to last a lifetime.

Our last stop was to Avignon where we would stay for another night at a very special address to explore the city.

Basque Inspired

Forever drawn to the sun and sea, my latest handbag collection takes its inspiration from a recent trip to Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz. This colorful collection crosses the border from the Basque region of France into Spain. Photographed in the Luxembourg Gardens by Catherine O’Hara, here’s a look at the Basque Collection.

What better to compliment Kasia Dietz handbags than the latest collection by local designer Koshka Mashka.

Each limited edition bag turns inside out to reveal a unique print. As always, made in Paris and worn globally.

Several years ago, my love affair with Basque Country began in the foodie capital of San Sebastian, Spain.

Boasting Frank Gehry’s impressive Guggenheim museum, the city of Bilbao also made a lasting impression.

Manifesto Market

My first visit to Prague many years ago recalled memories of strolling in the picturesque Old Town and crossing imposing Charles Bridge stretching along the Vltava river with a view of the 9th century Prague Castle in the distance. A few weeks ago I returned to Prague to discover a city that has recently taken on a new identity as a gastronomic and cultural capital, thanks in large part to the team behind Manifesto Market.

Located in the heart of the Florenci district, Manifesto Market has turned a former wasteland into the city’s first cashless pop-up market. The brainchild of Martin Barry, a landscape architect from New York who also helms non-profit reSITE, Manifesto has become exactly what Martin envisioned. Effectively, he created “a universe where people come together to share good food and culture and become inspired.” Meeting Martin and his vivacious Czech colleague Radka felt like reconnecting with old friends.

The moment I entered Manifesto Market, the vibrant energy was palpable. A sense of belonging was felt throughout the inviting space, built almost overnight from 27 containers. Music filled the light spring air as families and groups of friends gathered to feast on cuisine from all corners of the globe. I couldn’t wait to taste the over twenty food stands, from gourmet Italian dishes to Mexican, Vietnamese and Japanese street food, not to mention American BBQ and Israeli specialties including my favorite, hummus!

With the goal of trying every cuisine, I dined to my heart’s content over the few days I spent in Prague, impressed by the quality and selection in food and drink, and all at street food prices. By night I sipped on expertly concocted cocktails from one of the three bars and couldn’t leave without trying the local beer brews. Even my sweet tooth was satiated with mini pancakes, a decadent take on Dutch poffertjes, and rolled ice-cream, available even in non-dairy vegan varieties. Manifesto Market is undoubtedly a gastronomic paradise! What’s more, the market is cashless making it all that much more efficient.

Focused on culture, Manifesto Market boasts a book store with a notable selection of reading material for both adults and kids. Among the food stalls there’s also a boutique featuring sustainable design, and a florist. The weekend line-up includes feature films and live music or a superstar DJ.

Today marks one year since the opening of Prague’s Manifesto Florenci, and only a few weeks until the second outpost, Manifesto Smichov opens on July 19th. Even more reason to visit this cultural mecca. Me? I’ll be back!

Weekend in Biarritz

When Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he said, “I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I have only one fear: that it will become fashionable.” Naturally, we decided to head south and discover just how fashionable this town had become.

We arrived by train and settled into our charming hotel Villa Koegui in the heart of Biarritz. From there we began to explore the cafe-lined streets, stopping for tapas and sangria in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. Favorites became Puig & Daro for tasty small plates and local haunt Le Bar Jean which spilled onto the sidewalk every evening for apéro hour. Nearby Market Les Halles proved a welcome spot for local tastes and fresh produce.

The following day my adventurous Italian decided we should head to Saint-Jean-de-Luz by bike. Always up for a challenge, we rented bicycles and began the 10-mile journey.

Our journey began along the ocean and through the quaint village of Bidart, with a lunch stop at Hétéroclito in Guéthary.

As beautiful as the bike ride was (aside from a few steep moments), I was happy to arrive to Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Set upon a natural harbor in the southeast of the Bay of Biscay, Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a popular beach resort.

After soaking up the sun, we met a friend for coffee in town, beneath the most picture perfect tree-lined cafe.

With one last look at Saint-Jean-de-Luz, we jumped back on the bikes, direction Biarritz, just in time for sunset and a well-deserved glass of wine.

Our last day was spent on one of Biarritz’s beaches, basking in the sun and surf that is so unique to this part of France. Maybe next time we’ll try our luck at surfing.

Adventures in Amalfi

To celebrate ten years since that fortuitous meeting on Prince Street in New York City, my Italian and I chose one of the most stunning settings, the Amalfi Coast. From Naples we rented a car and the adventures began! First stop was lunch at the fishing village of Cetara.

Back on the winding hillside roads, we headed towards Amalfi, destination Hotel Santa Caterina. This is where the dream began, or rather, continued, upon our terrace with a view of this once powerful maritime republic. Could there be a more perfect setting to celebrate our love story?

Barely did I want to leave our hilltop perch, but it was time to explore the town, and the rest of the Amalfi Coast.

From a visit to the 9th-century Amalfi Cathedral that overlooks the town, to Pasticceria Andrea Pansa dating back to 1830 and known for their famous lemon cake, we toured the town. We also perused the paper shops, Amalfi town once the leading manufacturer of handmade paper. How fitting for an anniversary gift!

Our next stop along the coast was to the colorful village of Positano, equally impressive from afar and from within the maze of streets. I could only imagine the hoards of people visiting come summertime.

The next day we braved the even longer and more winding roads to discover Sorrento. What a gem! Set on the Bay of Naples this coastal town just outside of the Amalfi Coast won our hearts.

High above Amalfi town sits Ravello, considered by many the hidden treasure of the Amalfi Coast. With so many stately homes and gardens galore, I could understand why! Following the sun, we ended up at Villa Cimbrone. Dating back to the 11th century AD and restored in the 20th century by Ernest William Beckett, many notable personalities passed through this grand estate, including Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, Henry Moore, T.S. Eliot, and Winston Churchill.

It was the Terrace of Infinity, with its endless sea views, that called to our souls, as it had so many before us.

A twenty-minute walk from Amalfi, we discovered the small and endlessly charming fishing village of Atrani.

Here too we discovered a vast terrace that appeared to float directly into the sea. And I apparently with it…

Walking back to Amalfi following five days of coastal bliss, our hearts were even more full than when we arrived.

Discovering Warsaw

A few weeks ago I ventured to Warsaw, I city I had often visited as a child en route to summers in Sanok with family. Having not been to Warsaw in well over a decade, I was eager to discover Poland’s vibrant capital city as an adult. What’s more, the most luxurious hotel in all of Poland, Raffles Europejski Warsaw, had just opened its doors. Where better to stay, just minutes away from the city’s Old Town.

Arriving to Raffles Europejski Warsaw, a short drive from the airport, I was in awe at the level of refinement in this over 160-year-old neo-renaissance palace built by Enrico Marconi, dating back to 1857. Far surpassing its former glory, this lavish hotel has redefined Polish luxury, combining historic elements with modern amenities.

Along with my cousin Dagmara who joined me from Kraków, we settled into Hotel Europejski, from the elegant Europejski Grill where we dined on modern Polish cuisine (including a decadent dessert of burnt butter gelato), to a signature drink at the stylish Long Bar, one of Raffles defining features. We also glanced into the humidor, eyeing the selection of single-malts and Armagnac.

Our spacious suite was fit for a queen, or two in this case. Even the marble bathroom was awe-inspiring. Not to mention the unique and inviting design of each room, making you feel very much at home, especially for an artist’s soul such as my own. Each room features original artwork by 120 Polish artists. With almost 500 works, Hotel Europejski contains one of the largest art collections in Poland. I couldn’t resist taking a tour, akin to a museum. Even the spa boasted a mosaic recovered from the hotel’s earlier days, as well as a menu filled with revitalizing treatments. (I recommend the signature massage using essential oils.)

A fan of all things sweet, we quickly discovered Lourse Warszawa patisserie, once the city’s most famous spot for confections and tea. The cakes looked as good as those in Paris, so of course we had to try a few, including Lourse’s signature chocolate cake. Pure heaven!

Minutes away from the hotel sits Warsaw’s Old Town. We spent an afternoon charmed by this medieval neighborhood reconstructed after World War II, also home to the Royal Castle. One of the most well-known restaurants Polka, served us a savory plate of pierogi. Craving more of this Polish specialty, the following day Dagmara and I dined at Stolica, a top spot for traditional Polish cuisine. Even better for something more refined. Another meal was enjoyed at Warszawa Wschodnia at the helm of rising star chef Mateusz Gessler. Open 24 hours and 7 days a week, it’s set in what’s called the Soho Factory, a more industrial part of Warsaw.

There’s no lack of culture in Warsaw, but this quick trip was more about enjoying the lavish comforts of Raffles Europejski Warsaw and the neighborhood. We did make it to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum for a lesson in classical music. The rest we’ll leave for the next visit.

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