Adventures in Portugal : Part two

From Porto we rented a car and hit the road. Our first stop was at the surf town of Nazaré. It’s here where the biggest waves ever surfed can be found, although during our visit the sea could not have been calmer.

Following a heavenly lunch of freshly caught fish at restaurant Taberna da Praia, we continued on to Óbidos. This medieval town just an hour north of Lisbon oozes with charm. As soon as we entered the labyrinth of whitewashed houses trimmed in royal blue and bright yellow, we were smitten. Having arrived just in time for sunset, we walked along the wall surrounding the town and delighted in the scenes that unraveled below.

It was the Moors who fortified Óbidos and inspired the minimalist color palette which fit my design aesthetic perfectly. Needless to say, I couldn’t stop photographing every corner of this town!

Home in Óbidos was at The Literary Man, a boutique hotel boasting 70,000 books, the largest collection of books of any hotel in the world! Following dinner at nearby restaurant Jamon Jamon, we curled up by the fire and dove into a few of these literary treasures.

The following day it was time to leave Óbidos and continue our journey south, but not until we tried their local specialty Ginja, a sweet cherry liquor, perfectly paired with chocolate. Yet another reason to love Óbidos!

We continued the long drive until we reached the Algarve and our home for the next few nights, the small town of Carvoeiro. The views from our B&B were of the limestone cliffs so famous to this region of Portugal. As the sun set we settled into our cozy terrace with a bottle of wine from the Duoro Valley, and took it all in.

Just steps away we discovered hidden gem Praia do Paraiso, also known as Paradise Beach, for good reason.

The next morning we embarked on a journey by foot. I had promised my Italian a hike on this trip, and what better than the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail, a total of 18km (10 miles) from our B&B. Did I mention this was not an easy hike? But well worth it for the stunning cliffside views!

Nearly at the end, we stopped for a heavenly (and well deserved lunch) at the only open restaurant we could find, and incidentally one of the best, O Pescador. Soon it would be time to return back along the same path, the cliffs glowing beneath us.

I felt very accomplished as we returned to Carvoeiro and resumed our positions on the terrace as the sun set, wine in hand, ending another memorable day in the sun-drenched Algarve.

It was now time to head to our final destination on these adventures in Portugal. But first, my Italian had a surprise stop up his sleeve, as he often does. We had arrived to Santa Luzia, and much to my pleasure I soon found out this was the “capital of octopus”, their local specialty and my absolute favorite! We had quite a feast at Casa do Polvo, tasting seven different types of octopus dishes. Needless to say, we skipped dinner.

Our last stop, and where we would ring in the new year, was nearby Tavira. This ancient Moorish town is considered the most charming in the Algarve. We settled into Tavira House Hotel and took to exploring the neighborhood.

New Year’s Eve brought with it a live concert, filling the small town with thousands of revelers, and at midnight a show of fireworks lit up the sky. As we had spent the last day of 2018, so we spent the first day of 2019, lounging lazily in the sunshine on one of Tavira’s sandy beaches. My Italian went for a run while I dreamt of our next beach getaway, knowing all too well that a wintry Paris awaited us.



Adventures in Portugal : Part one

This year for the holidays my Italian and I decided to embark on a new adventure. After becoming enamored with Lisbon while visiting the city two years ago, we vowed to return and explore more of this vibrant country. How better to discover Portugal’s secrets than via a Viking river cruise up and down the Duoro?

The journey began in Lisbon where I was eager to become reacquainted with this dynamic city while discovering more of its treasures.

These included the Belém Tower, built on the Tagus river between 1514 and 1520 under the reign of Manuel I as part of the city’s defense system.

Not far away, our expert guide led us to Jerónimos Monastery, a spectacular 500-year-old masterpiece. This symbol of Portugal’s power and wealth during the Age of Discovery is one of the most visited sights in Lisbon.

The last stop in Lisbon was to The National Azulejo Museum where I learned all about the art of Portuguese tiles. It was the Portuguese that first created mosaics upon their azulejo tiles, as evidenced in these decorative tiles, some dating back to the 15th century. I even had the chance to create my own.

En route to Porto we stopped at the medieval town of Coimbra. Here sits the oldest university in Portugal, and one of the oldest in the world. The University of Coimbra was established in 1290 and is believed to be the inspiration for Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. Walking around this World heritage site, I could see where J.K. Rowling found her inspiration.

It was now time to board our Viking vessel and discover the enchanting Duoro river valley, right from our cabin.

As soon as we left Porto, a magical landscape of vineyards and lush greenery unraveled before our eyes. Sitting aboard the Viking Torgil I became mesmerized by the changing colors as we sailed along the river.

Our first stop along the Duoro was to the majestic Mateus Palace. Built in the early 18th-century, this palace boasts the finest baroque architecture in Portugal. An impressive collection of artifacts and furnishings from around the world fill the interior rooms, including a vast library. Part of the palace is still lived in by the family who own it. The perfectly manicured gardens were modeled after Versailles.

What made this Viking journey even more thrilling was an overnight stop to Salamanca, Spain. I had first visited this historic city as a student and couldn’t wait to explore it again with my Italian in tow.

From the Romanesque cathedral dating back to 1120 to the new Baroque cathedral, both elaborate works of art, to the 13th-century university, Salamanca is filled with architectural riches. Our eyes opened wide as we toured the city with our Viking guide.

I was completely enchanted with the House of Shells as it’s called, now the Public Library of Salamanca. Combining Gothic, Moorish and Italian styles of architecture, this former library constructed in the 15th-century features 400 shells on its exterior facade. Mere decoration or a symbol of love? My theory would be the latter. The views of the cathedral from within this, the oldest library in Europe, were breathtaking!

After touring Salamanca’s university, one of the oldest in the world, it was time to head back to the Viking Torgil just in time to celebrate Christmas in Portugal.

On Christmas Eve we were invited to spend midnight mass at the Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies in Lamego. We were moved by attending mass in this church dedicated to Mary, the Mother of Jesus. For Christmas day we returned to this sacred church, walking the 686 steps down to the village, admiring the azulejos along the way.

After many days and nights spent along the Duoro river, it was time to return to where the journey first began, and discover the vibrant city of Porto.

Needless to say, it was love at first sight. I couldn’t wait to become better acquainted with Porto’s historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From views of Porto from above, where a Viking guide educated us on the history of the city, to the São Bento train station where 20,000 azulejo tiles tell many a story, to the Ribeira neighborhood for a dose of shopping. We eagerly took it all in, returning to our Viking cabin where we could enjoy Porto city views by night.

After two days in Porto, our wondrous Viking cruise had come to an end and we prepared to head south, this time traveling by land. Stay tuned for part two of our adventures in Portugal…

Weekend in Bordeaux

Imagine a city offering plenty of pedestrian streets, stellar restaurants, culture in its many forms and trams as the main mode of transport. And let’s not forget the wine. Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? Welcome to Bordeaux.

Last weekend my Italian and I hopped aboard the train for a two-hour ride from Paris to Bordeaux. We had briefly visited the city en route to Arcachon & Cap Ferret, and I already felt then that it was uniquely special.

Ready to discover what I consider to be the highlights of this cultural mecca, and what has quickly become a favorite French city? If you don’t trust me, you can check in with Bordeaux Tourism.

SLEEP: I recommend staying in the city center at chic design boutique hotel Mama Shelter or Hotel de la Presse.

You’ll be just minutes away from the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, home to both the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux, and where you can book tickets to view one of these impressive performances. On weekends keep an eye out for more intimate classical music concerts starting at only 10€.

EAT: Next door to the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux discover Le Quatrième Mur, an elegant restaurant with renowned chef Philippe Etchebest at the helm. Both the food and the setting makes for a memorable evening.

Another dining favorite is Cromagnon, open only a year and already one of Bordeaux’s top-rated restaurants. The female chef, originally from Moldova prepares creatively infused combinations including tuna tartar and seared fois gras with a side of almond hummus. I recommend the 7-course tasting menu paired with wine.

Another dining spot that merits a visit is Bordeaux’s newly opened food hall Les Halles de Bacalan. This industrial space features food from all over the globe, including Spanish tapas, a cheese section, a healthy canteen, and of course a truffle stand. The perfect stop before or after a visit to the neighboring Cité du Vin.

VISIT: A trip to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a visit to this exceptional museum and exhibition space dedicated to wine. La Cité du Vin tells many stories both in its innovative design and the permanent exhibition filling over 3,000m2. Prepare to discover the culture and civilizations of wine, ending with a glass of wine and a 360° view of Bordeaux. Make sure to stop at the wine shop on the ground floor where you can find an impressive selection of wines from around the world.

Another museum not to miss is the CAPC musée d’art contemporain de Bordeaux. This Contemporary Art Museum, once a warehouse, boasts not only a world of artists and exhibitions that will equally intrigue and delight the mind, the rooftop proves a destination in itself. There’s also a restaurant, Café du Musée.

SHOP: Aside from buying wines from the region, there are a few spots that I’d suggest stopping by for a look, a smell, or a taste. The Parfumerie de L’Opéra features its own Bordeaux scent, as well as many other hard to find fragrances. Librairie Mollat is the first independent bookstore in France, and with a sizeable foreign language section, there’s something for every bookworm. La Maison Darricau is a four-generations-old chocolate maker, exclusive to Bordeaux. Their Grain de Sable (hazelnut praline with sea salt) flavor alone is worth the stop!

RELAX: My favorite hammam Les Cent Ciels has just opened in Bordeaux. How better to end a weekend of dining and museum-going than relaxing at a luxurious hammam, complete with body scrub, mud mask and massage?

There’s much more to discover in the elegant and culturally rich Bordeaux, but I’ll leave that until next time.

Paris to London

I’ve always loved London. Just a quick Eurostar ride away, it’s easy to spend a few days in this dynamic city. My most recent trip across the channel inspired me to design a London bag collection since my bags do love to travel. On a recent afternoon I met with photographer Catherine O’Hara at one of my beloved locations in Paris, Palais Royal. I dressed in the latest Koshka Mashka attire – a perfect compliment to Kasia Dietz handbags! Here’s the Kensington tote, waterproof and as always, reversible. Isn’t tartan timelessly elegant and stylish?

Nothing like stopping for a coffee with a little people watching at cafe Le Nemours. The Shoreditch tote is named for this eclectic and artsy London neighborhood.

In the past I had designed an extra-large tote bag, and soon sold out of it. The XL style is back, this time inspired by Notting Hill. This tote too is reversible, revealing a floral side. The perfect weekender!

To thank you for your continuous support, and since today is Small Business Saturday, I’m offering 30% off all Kasia Dietz handbags until November 30th using code: shopsmall. Happy shopping!

Riviera Hopping

On my last visit to Cinque Terre, the inviting October sun inspired a trip along the Italian Riviera. After the olive harvest, of course. There remained a unique hidden gem I had yet to discover, and a few villages to revist. Our journey began via train from Monterosso.

In just over an hour we arrived to one of my favorite and most scenic of Liguria’s seaside villages, Camogli. The beaches were filled with bathers soaking beneath the Mediterranean sun.

From Camogli’s port we hopped aboard a boat to our next destination, a seaside gem I was eager to visit.

Might I add that there’s no better way to travel along the Italian Riviera than by boat. Unless you opt to hike.

I was in awe at the sight of San Fruttuoso. A medieval abbey set on an idyllic cove between Camogli and Portofino. A hidden paradise only reachable via boat or by hiking two hours across the Portofino promontory.

We settled in for a seaside lunch of fresh seafood and pasta at restaurant La Cantina followed by a swim in the tepid sea. I could easily understand why San Fruttuoso captivated anyone who reached its remote shores.

Choosing to travel by boat, we hopped back aboard, destination Portofino. I had first visited this chic port village eleven years ago during my year long travels, just before my love affair with Cinque Terre began.

Our last stop before returning to Monterosso was to neighboring Santa Margherita Ligure for a gelato. My Côte d’Azur clutch fit right in with the kaleidoscope of colors.

In just 45 minutes we were back in Cinque Terre, filled with visions of the picture perfect Italian Riviera, undoubtedly one of the most enchanting coasts in the world.

Visit to Kraków

Childhood summers contained vivid scenes of Kraków, a medieval Polish city which in the years that followed became one of my favorite European destinations. Walking around the expansive market square, called Rynek Glówny to locals, feels much like coming home. Most of all when I have a chance to re-experience the city with my mom, who first introduced me to Kraków, where she lived and studied decades ago.

Walking around the cobbled cafe-lined streets to the sounds of horse’s hooves, I immediately feel transported not only to my youth but to another era. The sight of Starbucks brought me back to the present day. I instead headed to Café Camelot, my favorite haunt from the past.

While you could certainly spend every day strolling around the Old Town, shopping at the Cloth Hall, a Renaissance-era trading outpost, learning about amber at the Amber Museum, admiring 14th-century Gothic church St. Mary’s Basilica, and visiting the regal Wawel Castle, there’s much more to see, do and taste in Kraków. Many of these recommendations I share in my article for Fathom.

On this trip I discovered another noteworthy address, Milkbar Tomasza, where you can taste authentic Polish food cooked just as your babcia, or grandmother, would make it. Some of the best pierogi I’ve eaten!

A scholarly stop that merits a visit is to Jagiellonian University, the oldest university in Poland, and one of the oldest surviving universities in the world. It’s also my mom’s alma mater.

Where to sleep? I opted for historic hotel Pod Różą, a charming medieval haven in the heart of Kraków’s Old Town. What a perfect location! To live like a local, Antique Apartments is the top choice in apartment rentals.

However you decide to experience Kraków, the city is sure to woo you, as it does me time and time again.

 

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