Weekend in Provence

Before the official end of summer, also known as the rentrée in France, we decided to head south for a weekend in Provence. Just over three hours by train from Paris to Aix-en-Provence, our adventures began. Our first stop was Moustiers, considered one of the most beautiful villages of France. We quickly understood why.

After a decadent lunch at one of the top eateries in town, we headed to our next destination, the Gorges du Verdon. This river canyon in southeastern France is considered the most remarkable in Europe, breathtaking from both above and below. We traded the car for a kayak and paddled our way through the gorge, surrounded by dramatic cliffs rising into the sky. What a thrill! We turned back just as the white-water rapids began.

From here we got back on the road, accompanied by the most panoramic views all along the Gorge du Verdon.

By early evening we arrived to our home at lavish 5-star resort Terre Blanche, perfectly situated between Provence and the Côte d’Azur. From here we could visit the charming villages of Fayence and Seillans, or even Sainte-Maxime. But once we discovered the bucolic property where golf carts are the primary mode of transport, and days are spent overlooking Provençal landscapes and dining on an array of local cuisine, we had no intention of leaving. At least not until it was time to return to Paris.

Energized and ready to enter a new season, we stopped for dinner at the pastel-hued city of Aix-en-Provence before jumping back on the high-speed train. This adventure had come to an end but many more awaited.

 

Franschhoek

All aboard the wine tram! Our next and last stop was to Franschhoek, a town boasting centuries-old vineyards in South Africa’s Western Cape. It was French Huguenots that settled here after fleeing France when Protestantism was outlawed in 1685. This, the ‘Valley of the Hugeunots’ is full of French charm and Cape Dutch architecture, proving an idyllic weekend escape an hour’s drive from Cape Town. It’s also where you can discover some of South Africa’s best chefs, not to mention the wine.

We arrived just in time for the last wine tram of the day.  We hopped-on, ready to experience what Franschhoek is best known for. With several tram lines to choose from and dozens of wineries along the routes, we managed to limit ourselves to three tastings.

Each winery told a unique story. Sometimes we felt as though we were in Provence, and at other moments it was clear that the ethereal beauty could only be South Africa.

By early evening, we were happy to return to the village and explore the many boutiques and art galleries.

Our home in Franschhoek was The Last Word, a utterly charming boutique hotel located in the very heart of the village. We could not have ended this epic trip to South Africa in a more perfect setting. Our last meal was one to remember, the tasting menu at La Petite Colombe, a top address in town.

Both my Italian and I shall dream of South Africa for many days and nights to come. Until the next visit.

On Safari

Our next stop was 320 kilometers (or a four hour drive) northwest of Johannesburg. Madikwe Game Reserve is located in South Africa’s North West Province, bordering Botswana. We chose this lesser known park for its variety of wildlife and malaria-free location. Even before arriving to our lodge, Visser, our skilled ranger, introduced us to a male lion napping in the late afternoon sun. What a sight! We were now officially ‘on safari’.

Our home became the Motswiri Private Safari Lodge, a five-star luxury lodge that took every care to make us feel like this new routine of heading out at 6 am to look for animal tracks in hopes of catching a glimpse of one of the many wild animals living in Madike, was all part of the fun. From day one, we were hooked!

Within our first 24 hours on safari, we were lucky enough to see the “Big Five” – African lion, African leopard, Cape buffalo, African elephant, and the rhinoceros – named for their difficulty in being hunted (not to mention the five deadliest animals). The regal giraffe and zebra were also quite a sight!

It was the elephants that we became most familiar with. From their bathing habits to nearly being charged by one of the eldest in the group.  I still find the African elephant, the largest land animal in the world, to be a gentle creature – at a distance, of course. We were sad to learn of the continuous poaching going on in all parts of Africa, of both the African Elephant for its ivory and the rhinoceros for its horns (which have absolutely no medicinal value). I designed my Kenya bag collection in an effort to raise money in protection of this elephant.

My favorite sightings during our four-day safari were the lions. These gorgeous creatures are fierce yet uniquely beautiful. King of the jungle (and the African bush), after all. It was this moment, catching a couple lazily lounging in the late morning sun with their cubs nearby,  that I will remember forever.

I leave you with this breathtaking sunset, enjoyed not only by us but by a sole rhinoceros. Can you spot him?

Next and last stop was to discover a charming “French Corner” of South Africa after a final visit to Cape Town.

Cape Town Adventures

Last May, on the occasion of a certain Italian’s birthday, we flew to the Mother City: Cape Town. I had longed to explore South Africa for as long as I can remember, and was elated when he chose this destination as the setting for his celebrations. Maybe I hinted a little… We arrived to Camps Bay unaware of what to expect,  planning only to spend a few days at this beach haven before moving on to other adventures. Needless to say, we fell in love with Cape Town and eagerly returned post safari. The latter I will share in the next post. First, allow me to highlight all that we loved about Africa’s southernmost city, beginning with Camps Bay itself.

These white sandy and often stony beaches make for the perfect base from which to explore the city.  Filled with tasty eateries, our favorite being Codfather (freshly caught seafood, fish, and sushi), it’s easy to spend a few days basking in the sun followed by a truly remarkable sunset. The rocky Clifton beach is just a stroll away.

The Victoria & Alfred (V&A) Waterfront is a scenic complex of over 450 retail shops and 60 restaurants including the V&A Food Market, boasting sweet and savory tastes from all over the country. Here too you can discover The Watershed, an industrial market featuring over 150 artisans creating artwork, clothing, accessories, etc. The perfect spot to pick up a souvenir. From here too, you can take a boat to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela served 18 of his 27 years imprisoned.

Our next stop was to Cape Town’s most prominent landmark, flat-topped Table Mountain. We took the cable car up, though it would not have been too difficult to walk. As could be imagined, the views were breathtaking! And simply walking along the mountain was an experience. We both could have happily stayed until sunset.

Just 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) south of the center of Cape Town (and easily reachable via Uber – the safest way to travel) sits the affluent suburb of Constantia. We were keen to try some of the local wines famous to the region and chose boutique wine farm Beau Constantia, both for the spectacular views, and the award-winning chef. Sampling the many shared plates of the tasting menu at Chef’s Warehouse Beau Constantia, we quickly understood  why this was one of the best-rated restaurants in Cape Town. Not to mention the wines, which included a glass from neighboring Constantia Glen.

While we don’t usually take bus tours during our travels, we made an exception for the Cape Point and Penguin day tour. From Cape Point with it’s Old Lighthouse (238m above sea level), to walking the length of the rocky promontory to the Cape of Good Hope, it was a day charged with some of the most dramatic natural landscapes imaginable! Well worth the tour which ended with penguins.

Boulders Beach is in the Cape peninsula close to Simon’s Town. Here we met a protected colony of African penguins which settled on Boulders Beach in 1982. Incidentally, this is the only place in the world where you can get so close to penguins. These tuxedo clad creatures are beyond cute, and can put on quite a show with their squeeling, swimming and nesting. We were both smitten!

To visit the dynamic city of Cape Town, we hopped on another bus and enjoyed the sights, always back in time for sunset. In the midst of these adventures, we went on safari. Stay tuned for lions, leopards and rhinos…

Royal Abbey of Fontevraud

Welcome to the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, founded in 1101 along the borders of three regions, Anjou, Touraine and Poitou. Considered the jewel of the Loire region, this is the largest surviving monastery dating from the middle ages. Also a convent, the Abbey welcomed nobles with royal blood for seven centuries. Following the revolution, Napoleon converted Fontevraud into one of France’s most brutal prisons.  So it remained until 1963.

One of the first buildings in France to be named a historical monument in 1840, in 2000 the Abbey of Fontevraud was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of the Loire Valley. What’s happening in the abbey these days? Let me take you on a little tour…

Set upon 34 acres, there is plenty to explore both inside and outside of this monumental abbey. The feeling while touring the grounds is one of complete tranquility and deep mysticism. Undoubtedly a magical setting.

The church once held up to 400 nuns and is now the resting place of Plantagenet Kings: Henry II and his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, their son, Richard the Lionheart, and Isabelle d’Angoulême, King John’s second wife.

The Renaissance style cloisters were the heart of the monastery, rebuilt in the 16th century. The simple garden of boxwood, grass and flowers is reminiscent of paradise lost, echoing the four rivers in the Garden of Eden.

The Chapter house was where the community gathered to make administative and spiritual decisions. Outside of this room, silence was imposed. The decor, intricate carvings and Renaissance murals of the Passion of Christ by local artist Thomas Pot, signifies the importance of this room.

In addition to the treasure chamber where historical objects are on view from the Abbey’s origins, the nuns’ dormitory hosts contempory art installation “Mort en été” by Claude Lévêque. Enter into a fantastical nightscape, of dreams or nightmares. Or maybe this is a trip on the Loire at sunset…

Art has become an integral part of the abbey. Every year the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud invites artists to take residence, where they can create original works in art, music and film. What an inspirational setting!

In 2014 it became possible to sleep and dine within this majestic setting with the opening of  Fontevraud L’Hôtel. Stylishly modern rooms provide the perfect refuge amid this thousand-year-old heritage. Set inside a former priory, dine at the helm of one Michelin star Chef Thibaut Ruggeri at Bocuse d’Or. The restuarant alone makes the abbey worth a visit! Following your meal, take a stroll with only the light of the moon to guide you.

There is much more to highlight at the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, including their steps toward sustainability by use of solar energy and vegetable gardens on premises. Digital tools used throughout the tour make the visit interactive and even more memorable. The rest I will leave for you to discover.

Giverny in Bloom

Every visit to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny proves a unique experience in what can be considered a floral paradise. My first visit to Monet’s masterpiece was shortly after moving to Paris, my Italian in tow. I couldn’t wait to return, but next time I planned to bring my mom. I knew her artistic soul would find inspiration among the endless blossoms. How better to spend a mother/daughter day than frolicking in the gardens of one of the world’s most revered painters? Plus, Mother’s Day was just around the corner. The perfect gift.

During her recent visit we set off for a guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision in the comfort of a luxurious bus, avoiding the hassle of metros, trains and taxis.  En route we were presented with information about Claude Monet’s life, exactly how he ended up living in Giverny, his love of flowers and gardening, and the many phases his home underwent following his death. An ideal history lesson while driving through the bucolic French countryside. Upon arrival we were able to skip the line and enjoy more time with Monet.

As soon as we entered the property, my mom’s eyes widened in awe of the hundreds of tulips before us, each section color coordinated and perfectly manicured, just as Monet would have liked. Our tour guide led us along the paths from one garden to another, with many an anecdote to share. Gray skies are not uncommon in Normandy but luckily for us, blue skies prevailed and temperatures were reminiscent of a hot summer day.

Led by our guide, we made our way from Monet’s home and flower garden Clos Normand, to his Japanese inspired water garden, stunning in its own right. Here we discovered the Japanese bridge that appears in many of his paintings, majestic weeping willows and the famous nympheas which continue to bloom throughout the summer. What a setting!

We walked through the gardens, recalling many of Monet’s works hanging in Paris’s Musée de l’Orangerie, vowing soon to return for another look. Meanwhile, what inspired these works blossomed before our eyes, in every hue imaginable. And to think, the gardens had only begun to show off their kaleidoscope of colors! Following tulips come roses, in gardens that continue to reveal their radiant blooms for months to come.

Having been eager to visit Monet’s home and gardens ever since she and my dad first traveled to Paris so many years ago, my mom was thrilled that we took this guided tour of Giverny with Paris City Vision. And I was thrilled to make one of her travel dreams come true.

With Mother’s Day coming up, take my advice and hop aboard Paris City Vision to Giverny. You’ll thank me!

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