The Heart of London

The last few weeks have been all about family. A European holiday that took my mom to my most beloved places, from Monterosso, Italy to Paris to London, ending in the city where she and my father met years ago. For the grand finale, where better to stay than at One Aldwych, in the very heart of London. We arrived from Paris via the Eurostar, welcomed by bright blue skies. My mom has a habit of inviting the sun wherever she goes.

What was once a newspaper publishing house has in the last 20 years been converted to a privately owned five-star hotel. Though I soon found One Aldwych to be in a class of its own. The staff took every care to make our stay memorable, from the smiles exchanged in greeting to the personal notes left in the room. Not to mention the bed linens, fresh flowers, original artwork throughout the hotel… And did I mention the pool and spa? There’s also a 24-hour gym and private screening room. Had it been raining, I might not have left the hotel.

Just steps away from our room with a gorgeous view sits Covent Garden along with Seven Dials, a convergence of seven streets filled with boutiques, cafes, and plenty of charm. This being one of London’s most picturesque neighborhoods, we set off on foot to explore. We also stopped by the nearby National Gallery for a dose of British and French art. Across the street from One Aldwych, the Somerset House with the Courtauld Gallery houses one of the finest Impressionist and Post-Impressionist collections in the world. Art for days!

To venture further afield from Harrod’s to Oxford Street to Trafalgar Square, we hopped on the famous red London bus and took in the city from the upper deck. Here’s a tip: buy a £5 bus card and ride all day!

One Aldwych hotel is located in the heart of the theater district, evident as the Lion King peers into the windows of the elegant lounge. We opted to dine at the hotel which boasts two gourmet restaurants; Indigo, both locally sourced and dairy and gluten free at the helm of Chef Dominic Teague; and Eneko Basque Kitchen & Bar, a more high end option from Michelin starred Chef Eneko Atxa. The Lobby Bar itself is worth a visit with its ‘Showtime Menu’ featuring theater themed cocktails. Neither of us could resist as we sipped our Dionysus and Aldwych Mule concoctions before heading to the mezzanine for a decadent dinner. I took note that One Aldwych offers Film & Fizz nights in their 30-seat screening room. Champagne, dinner and a movie, anyone?

It was not easy to leave when the time came, mom back to the US and I to Paris. Without a doubt there was no better place to end our mother/daughter sojourn than in the luxurious and friendly embrace of One Aldwych.

Discovering Marrakech

Marrakech has been on the top of my travel list for as long as I can remember. Even more so after visiting Essaouira a few years ago. There’s something other-worldly about Morocco that appeals to all my senses. The vibrancy of the city was evident from the moment I stepped into the medina, just minutes away from my luxurious home at Riad Farnatchi. From here I wandered until I was happily lost within this world of color.

SHOP: First stop after settling in? Exploring the souk, of course! With hundreds of stalls selling everything from wicker baskets to carpets to house slippers, it’s complete sensory overload. The key is to focus on what captures your interest, and to bargain. After some intense negotiating, I bought a few handmade slippers and tunics for my mom, and had my eye on a Moroccan lamp. Next time!



VISIT: After great anticipation, The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Marrakech opened in October 2017, showcasing dozens of pieces from the designers iconic fashion collections. Discovering the city in 1966, Yves Saint Laurent fell in love with “the colors and light found there, and its art of living” and made it his second home. To compliment the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris which I recently visited, this sister museum reveals more of the life and work of this revered designer, one of my personal favorites.

Just 100 meters away sits the enchanting Jardin Majorelle, a labor of love created over forty years by French painter Jacques Majorelle. A setting where Yves Saint Laurent often found inspiration, “seduced by this oasis where colours used by Matisse were mixed with those of nature,” he and his partner Pierre Bergé purchased the land in the 80’s and set about saving and restoring it. The villa at Jardin Majorelle houses the Berber Museum and a collection of Marjorelle’s paintings. Here too, both Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé are honored.

EAT: For the best in Moroccan cuisine, including sweet and savory tagine, head up to Terrasse des Epices where you can dine with the sun, just above the souk. Nomad is another hotspot nearby. For dinner make a reservation at seductive Le Foundouk, which boasts one of the most stunning rooftops in Marrakech.



I’m already counting the days until my next encounter with the enchanting medieval walled city of Marrakech.

Riad Farnatchi

Ever since my first visit to Morocco over two years ago, when my Italian surprised me with a trip to Essaouira, I’ve been longing to return, with Marrakech at the top of the list. This dream became a reality when I discovered luxurious Riad Farnatchi, the ideal home in the heart of the medina. With a friend and fellow writer in tow, we left the chill of late winter in Paris to discover the eternal sunshine of Marrakech.

We arrived to the intimate 10-bedroom Riad Farnatchi by way of the newly modernized airport, a quick 45 minute drive following a 3-hour flight from Paris.  The old world charm of the medina just outside the wooden portal, I immediately became enamored with this elegant riad, my first taste of Marrakech.

A breakfast of traditional Moroccan delights including sweet and savory flat bread Rgaïf-Msemen was enjoyed on my private terrace, to a backdrop of chirping birds and a flowing fountain. Complete tranquility found.

My suite itself was larger than most Parisian apartments, with skillfully crafted detail in every doorway and light fixture. I felt as though I had stepped back in time, with no recollection of the present day.


I knew there was an entire city waiting to be discovered, beginning with the souk just steps away, but I could have easily whiled away my days at Riad Farnatchi, both from within the courtyard and high up on the rooftop, taking in the views while calls to prayer sounded in the distance.

Dinner was savored at Riad Farnatchi’s new European-style restaurant Le Trou au Mur, where we dined on the house specialty, mixed mechuoi. This included some of the best cuts of lamb I’ve tasted, roasted in a traditional clay mechuoi oven. I’ll be back to dine on their stunning rooftop during the warmer months.

My days at Riad Farnatchi was spent discovering hidden corners of this charming hotel. I also had the pleasure of experiencing a traditional Moroccan hammam at the Farnatchi Spa. I’ve rarely felt so clean and relaxed!

Stay tuned to discover the many notable sights surrounding Riad Farnatchi in my personal guide to Marrakech.

 

 

Weekend in Venice

I first experienced the sensation of Venice as a university student during a quick sojourn en route to Croatia. My second visit was with girlfriends during my around-the-world trip in 2007. But it was this recent trip with my Italian in which I became completely smitten with the city. Where better to spend a weekend celebrating our love story. Almost nine years since that fortuitous day on New York’s Prince Street, we set our hearts on Venice.

SLEEP: Our first stop after getting lost in the maze of canals, was our home on the Grand Canal, Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. This once private palace possessing the air and art of a museum feels like you’ve entered a Venetian fairy tale. All that was missing to set the scene was a grand masquerade ball. Built in the 15th century and bought by the Sagredo family three centuries later, this palace remains in private hands.

The hands on the hotel’s facade however, are an installation by Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, unveiled for the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017. Titled “Support” this piece is meant to bring attention to the threat of global warming, and I hope it will remain in place for years to come. Quinn’s smaller sculptures are on display within the hotel’s grand salons. In the Music Ballroom, numerous frescoes attributed to Gaspare Diziani cover the walls and ceiling. The Sagredo family’s coat of arms can be found decorating the floor.

The long hall, featuring chandeliers in Murano glass and murals along the walls, overlooks the Grand Canal.

Perhaps the most spectacular design element of Ca’ Sagredo is the staircase by architect Andrea Tirali, completed in 1732. He also built the Ponte dei Tre Archi over the Cannaregio canal in Venice in 1688. Two marble cherubs by Francesco Bertos greet guests, while breathtaking frescoes by Pietro Longhi  hang upon the wall.

EAT: Our first lunch stop was to Cantina Do Mori, Venice’s oldest cichetti bar, dating back to 1462, and one of Casanova’s favorite haunts. We dined on an array of delicious Venetian appetizers while mingling with the kindest locals. Thanks to their generous insights, our dining plans for the next few days were sorted. Our most decadent dinner was at the helm of chef Agostino Doria of Ostaria Santa Marina. Blending creativity with tradition, he serves perfectly balanced dishes from both land and sea. My octopus risotto was buonissimo! For an equally tasty yet more casual dining experience, Ostaria da Rioba is the place. Trust me! Even more casual still, and where we feasted on cichetti is Al Timon.

DRINK: One spot not to miss is Neo-Baroque cafe dating to 1720, Caffè Florian. Positioned on Piazza San Marco, it’s certainly a tourist attraction, but worthy of a stop for coffee or an aperitivo.

VISIT: A must see while in Venice is Palazzo Ducale, or Doges’ Palace, established in the 9th century. This was the seat of the Republic’s government, bureaucracy and main prisons.

You can easily spend an entire afternoon learning about Venetian history within this regal palace. Among the impressive artwork you’ll discover one of the world’s largest oil paintings. Tintoretti’s “Paradiso” takes over one wall of the Grand Council Hall, a sight to behold, as is the room itself.

Passing through the Bridge of Sighs, named for the sighs prisoners made while being led to captivity, you’ll enter into the newer prisons. To discover hidden secrets, take the Secret Itineraries Tour.

There’s much to see and do in Venice, besides taking a gondola ride, though that’s always an option! Even a week wouldn’t merit enough time to become intimately acquainted with the city’s six sestieri, or neighborhoods. Though in one weekend, we tried! My suggestion, wander without a map in hand and enjoy getting lost. The islands of Murano (famous for glass) and Burano (lots of lace) are only a boat ride away.

ART FIX: For the art aficionados, visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, an internationally recognized museum of modern art, and Punta della Dogana, an art museum in Venice’s former customs building. Captivating centuries old works of art are exhibited in one of Venice’s most venerated churches, the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

SHOP: My favorite spot for artisanal souvenirs is Paolo Olbi’s paper shop. This legendary man (who only speaks Italian) began his craft in as a bookbinder in 1962 and years later began creating beautiful photo albums, frames and agendas. For all things luxury head to the Fondaco dei Tedeschi nearby Rialto bridge, opened in 2017. This majestic building dating back to 1228 was once a trading post for German merchants, a customs house under Napoleon, and a post office under Mussolini. Even better than the shopping? Head up to the rooftop for the best views of the city. Enjoy the dream that is Venice!

36 Hours in Antwerp

Recently I took a trip to Antwerp, a city I had never properly visited. A quick stop for chocolate en route from Holland many years ago doesn’t really count, does it? I hadn’t been back to Belgium since our weekend in Bruges and was curious to discover this city dating back to the Middle Ages that I knew little about. So many gems to share in food and fashion, in addition to the diamonds Antwerp is famous for.

SLEEP : Minutes away from Antwerp’s Central Station, a stunning architectural marvel that some consider the most beautiful train station in the world, sits Hotel Indigo, the ideal refuge in the center of the city.

EAT : Aside from moules-frites (mussels with fries) and waffles, Belgium is not known for its food. I did however, discover a few restaurants worth sharing. Historically a horse stable, De Peerdestal is a charming spot for good meat and fish. For a French meal in grand style with a side of live piano music, head to Bourla. Here I tasted classic chicken fricassee coupled with local Belgian beer, of course. As for the Belgian specialty of chocolate, my favorite shop is Mary, dating back to 1919.

DRINK : Stocking the largest supply of coffee beans in the world, you’ll definitely find a good brew. My favorite, and where they roast their own beans, is Normo. For coffee, cake or a stellar sandwich, head to Cafématic.

DO : Antwerp boasts one of the oldest and most impressive animal parks in the world. Over 5,000 animals of 950 different species, including polar bears and Siberian tigers, are cared for at the Antwerp Zoo. For an art fix, head to 17th-century Rubens House, filled with masterpieces by Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. If music is your passion, book a performance at the Antwerp Concert Hall (Stadt Schouwburg), decorated with statues of the world’s greatest composers and musicians.

SHOP : The Antwerp Six, including Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, put this city on the fashion map in the 1980’s. To pick up wares from these Belgian greats as well as new and established Scandinavian and international designers, head directly to consignment shop Rosier 41. To discover local and artisanal designers, Superet is the spot. A top gift shop carrying unique home accessories and handmade jewelry is Mme Bovary.

EXTRA : One last stop during your visit to Antwerp is design centric Graanmarkt 13, a restaurant, concept shop and apartment, all in one.

With Love from Paris

Paris, the city of love, undoubtedly one of the most romantic in the world. And who better to enjoy it with than yourself? My first visit to Paris, before my life of love in the city of lights, was as a solo traveler. In a matter of moments, I was smitten! Even after eight years as a Paris local, I still take time to walk around my favorite neighborhoods, those less known to tourists, to sit at cafes and read or watch the Parisian world go by, and to take in the beauty of this enchanting city. Join me for a little walk in the snow, starting at Canal Saint Martin…

Next stop to nearby Place de la République where Marianne stands tall for Liberté, Égalité and Fraternité.

One of the most charming neighborhoods in the right bank is the Haut Marais, filled with treasures galore, one of them being chocolate shop Jacques Genin. His chocolat chaud is heavenly!

Head over to the Marché des Enfants Rouges and pick up a bouquet of the most stunning seasonal blooms.

With plenty of cafés lining the streets, stop by for a moment to read or reflect, with a side of people watching.

Take a walk around the neighborhood and become enchanted with all the nuances that are so typically Parisian, and pop into the Picasso Museum for a date with art.

Follow the cobbled paths until you reach regal square Place des Vosges, once home to the French royalty.

Are you smitten yet? Here’s my video tour through a few of my favorite romantic spots. With love from Paris!

Blog post and video sponsored by Flybe, Europe’s largest independent regional airline.

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