Having only visited Saint-Tropez off-season during my year-long travels, I was eager to discover this scenic coastal town on the French Riviera before it shut down for the winter. I became further intrigued after writing a story about it for Fodor’s Travel, detailing exactly how Saint-Tropez became the hotspot it is today. This past September, we packed our bags, hopped on the train, and headed south.
Our first stop was a room with a view overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez at Château de La Messardière. I share more about this dream property, here.
After lounging by the pool and indulging in the landscape’s natural beauty, with a stop at Château de LaMessardière’s Jardin Tropézina beach club, we headed back down the hill. Next stop, the town of Saint-Tropez.
To dive into the history of Saint-Tropez, we stayed at Hotel Byblos dating back to 1967. Its nightclub Les Caves du Roy was the place to be. Notable figures including Grace Kelly, Prince Charles, Romy Schneider, Lauren Bacall, Paloma Picasso, Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell, Leonardo DiCaprio and Mick Jagger have passed through the doors. Little has changed in recent years at this timeless hotel that even includes a Missoni suite.
Afternoons were spend wandering the historic town of Saint-Tropez, lost in the maze of streets while restaurants and galleries awaited evening patrons.
For those of you based in Europe, or for anyone planning a visit to France as soon as borders open once again, I’m sharing a few of my favorite French destinations. Aside from Nice and the French Riviera, each of these cities or towns is a 2-3 hour express train ride from Paris. Included are tips on where to stay and dine as well as cultural suggestions. Bon Voyage!
A top destination in Provence is the city of Avignon. I enjoyed my visit there so much that I introduced my mom to this Provençal gem last year. We stayed at the regal hotel La Mirande neighboring the Pope’s Palace. I also suggest renting a car and exploring the stunning landscapes of the Luberon. Hotel recommendations include the luxurious Coquillade Village and 5-star family-run Baumaniere. For a dose of high-class R&R, book a stay at hotel Saint-Remy in the heart of dreamy Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.
If you don’t mind a long train ride (just under 6 hours direct), head straight to Nice on the Côte d’Azur. This dynamic city where life takes on a slower pace will charm you with its vivid colors and local cuisine. While you’re here, make sure to visit Cannes, Antibes and Èze, each one uniquely captivating. For fragrance and art lovers, Grasse and Mougins will win your hearts.
Often referred to as a ‘mini Paris’, the elegant city of Bordeaux is in a class of its own. From here you can head to Arcachon and Cap Ferret for a more remote destination, or join the surfers for sunset in Biarritz.
For a taste of island life where fresh oysters are always on the menu, head to Île de Ré just west of La Rochelle. The best way to discover this picture-perfect maze of villages is by bike.
A town that I can’t seem to speak highly enough of is Beaune, in the heart of Burgundy. One of the best ways to explore this wine region is by bike. The capital of the region, Dijon also merits a visit.
Heading north to Normandy, the charm of Honfleur is undeniable. Follow the paths of Impressionist masters Gustave Courbet, Eugene Boudin and Claude Monet, and stop at Étretat for a cliffside spectacle. For a real taste of Normandy, head to Cherbourg and become lost in the surrounding villages. A more sobering experience is taking a walk along the D-Day beaches.
There’s much to explore in Brittany, but one city I highly recommend visiting is Saint-Malo. From here it’s just a quick drive or bus ride to one of France’s treasures, the pre-Romanesque church of Mont Saint-Michel. Stay overnight for a sunset you’ll not soon forget.
If castles thrill you as they do me, you’re in for a real treat in the Loire Valley. A lovely base from which to explore the region is the hillside city of Blois. From there you can drive or bike (25 kilometers) to the Châteaux de Chambord. Another picture-perfect setting is the town of Amboise, home to the Château d’Amboise. Here too sits Leonardo da Vinci’s last home, the Château du Clos Lucé. One of the most regal castles not to miss is the 16th-century masterpiece, the Château de Chenonceau.
Last weekend we set off on our first post-confinement adventure. Where better than to one of my most beloved towns of Beaune in the Burgundy region. During our first trip to Beaune four years ago, we had become smitten with the history and charm of this picture-perfect town and vowed to return. Given the need for social distancing, biking through the vineyards made for an enchanting weekend escape.
The ideal setting from which to begin the biking adventures was 16th-century Hôtel Le Cep, our favored address in the heart of Beaune. This time we even had a chance to discover Le Cep’s new wine tasting cellar Saint-Félix. From here we hopped aboard electric bikes available at the hotel and hit the long and winding roads.
We quickly learned that the bike path from Beaune is clear and easy to navigate. Biking past the verdant vineyards felt intoxicating! And we hadn’t even tasted a sip of wine yet.
Our first stop along the southwest route was to Pommard, a village famous for its Côte de Beaune wine production. Soon afterward we passed Volnay and its vineyards, producing famed wines since the 6th century.
The electric bikes proved a smart move as they allowed us to bike further and longer without tiring as easily.
Having been stuck at home for months without so much as a park to visit (Paris parks remained closed during the confinement), we fluttered along the paths like birds who had just been set free. And truth be told, with nary a soul on the paths, it was only birds that accompanied us.
Our last stop before heading back to Hôtel Le Cep was for a taste of what the region is so well known for. We found the most charming spot for an apéro in the village of Meursault and indulged in a glass of Bourgogne.
The following day we decided to bike northwest of Beaune and see what unknown villages and views awaited.
Fearing we wouldn’t find an open restaurant as lunch hour had passed, we stopped at the picturesque village of Savigny-lès-Beaune, home to a château museum, a Romanesque clock tower, and a church dedicated to St. Cassien. At the only open eatery, we savored lunch paired with a heavenly glass of Hautes Côtes de Beaune.
The remainder of the afternoon was spent blissfully biking along the vineyards, stopping to inhale the views and remark on how well nature feeds the soul.
Our last awe-inspiring view was the hill of Corton, set in the middle of four famous wine-growing villages – Ladoix-Serrigny, Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Savigny-lès-Beaune. More to explore next time.
Filled with the sights and tastes of Burgundy, it was time to return to Beaune and board the train to Paris.
The first time I visited Madrid was many years ago during the university years. I decided it was time to return to the Spanish capital. On this sojourn, rather than solely play tourist, I wanted to discover the many eclectic neighborhoods and the local food scene.
SLEEP: Our journey began at Bless Hotel Madrid in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. This design-savvy boutique hotel recently celebrated its first birthday. From this location nearby to El Retiro Park we could explore much of Madrid by foot or hop on a metro. Here too we dined at one of the culinary capital’s most gourmet addresses, Michelin-starred chef Martín Berasateguis restaurant, Etxeko. Meaning “at home” in Basque, the tasting menu was a heavenly gastronomic experience from both land and sea.
EAT: Fifteen minutes away by foot we explored the colorful Chueca neighborhood, quick to become a favorite district. San Antón Market, a three three-floor food hall offers dozens of dining options, both Spanish and international, along with a rooftop bar. Modern tapas bar Baco y Beto proved a favorite dinner spot. Closer to the hotel, La Maruca restaurant was another stellar address.
SHOP (AND EAT): On Sundays, El Rastro flea market takes over the historic La Latina neighborhood. Filled with local artisans and vintage stalls, an entire afternoon can be devoted to treasure hunting. In between shopping, some of Madrid’s oldest tapas bars entice with their simple offerings. Casa Amadeo is famous for their escargot, while Bar Santurce specializes in freshly grilled sardines. A more gourmet tapas experience was enjoyed at restaurant Juana La Loca.
VISIT: Our tour of Madrid’s most famous sights took us from Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square reconstructed in 1790 by Juan de Villanueva and unchanged since, to the Royal Palace, home to centuries-old collections of paintings, furniture, and armor. Nearby landmark Teatro Real of Madrid was once a leading theater in Europe. Next time we’ll book tickets to the opera.
WATCH: In the country where flamenco originated, we set our sights on a lively street performance in an inviting city square. For a more authentic experience, Corral de la Morería dating back to 1956 is the oldest locale in Madrid. Another notable address is Torres Bermejas.
With only a few days to bask in the culture of Madrid, there’s much more left to see and to taste. We’ll be back!
I haven’t become this smitten with a city in a long time. As soon as we arrived in Bath, I knew there was something uniquely ethereal about this, the largest city in the county of Somerset, just 12 miles from Bristol. Bath became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 due to its Roman history and famous Roman Baths, which I couldn’t wait to discover. But first, it was time to explore the city and get lost in its historic and hilly maze.
SLEEP: Our home in Bath was at the most quirky luxurious address in town. A Georgian townhouse, No 15 Great Pulteney hotel charmed at every cozy corner, from our well-appointed room to The Sitting Room and Bar 15 where we imbibed on craft cocktails, to The Dispensary, a design haven serving up a decadent seasonal menu. It was here too where one of Bath’s famous Sunday lunches is served, easily becoming an all-day affair. Spa 15 was an experience alone worthy of a stay at No 15 Great Pulteney. My treatment room was covered in curious sock art and the hot tub provided the perfect post-massage bliss.
EAT: The search of a gastropub led us to The Chequers where I happily dined on a hearty plate of fish and chips. For the next feast on this traditional dish, we’ll head straight to The Scallop Shell which has been voted the best in the UK. On Saturday, we headed to the Bath Farmers’ Market set in Green Park Station where local food producers sold freshly baked goods and produce from the Somerset countryside.
DRINK: Tipped off by a local, the nocturnal hours found us at The Dark Horse. This reservation-only cocktail bar is both moody and melodic, with dark wood interiors and a menu of bespoke cocktails to choose from.
We could have easily spent every day exploring this historic city and attempting to learn its many secrets. But there were Roman Baths to discover.
VISIT: Overlooking the Bath Abbey, the Roman Baths are a sight to behold. After being invaded by the Romans in 43AD, this religious spa complex was constructed by 75AD, referred to as Aquae Sulis, “the waters of Sulis”.
People from all over came to bathe in this religious spa and worship at the temple, believing that Goddess Sulis Minerva possessed curative powers. Each wing of this massive complex contained hammams, hot and cold dipping pools and relaxation rooms. Still today the city’s thermal springs rise and the Baths still flow with natural hot water. We even took a sip.
Next door to the bathing complex, the museum includes a gilt bronze head of the Goddess Sulis Minerva and other Roman artefacts.
When it came time to bid farewell to Bath, we made a vow to soon return to this city that captured our hearts.
Imagine a city offering plenty of pedestrian streets, stellar restaurants, culture in its many forms and trams as the main mode of transport. And let’s not forget the wine. Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? Welcome to Bordeaux.
Last weekend my Italian and I hopped aboard the train for a two-hour ride from Paris to Bordeaux. We had briefly visited the city en route to Arcachon & Cap Ferret, and I already felt then that it was uniquely special.
Ready to discover what I consider to be the highlights of this cultural mecca, and what has quickly become a favorite French city? If you don’t trust me, you can check in with Bordeaux Tourism.
You’ll be just minutes away from the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux, home to both the Opéra National de Bordeaux, as well as the Ballet National de Bordeaux, and where you can book tickets to view one of these impressive performances. On weekends keep an eye out for more intimate classical music concerts starting at only 10€.
EAT: Next door to the Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux discoverLe Quatrième Mur, an elegant restaurant with renowned chef Philippe Etchebest at the helm. Both the food and the setting makes for a memorable evening.
Another dining favorite is Cromagnon, open only a year and already one of Bordeaux’s top-rated restaurants. The female chef, originally from Moldova prepares creatively infused combinations including tuna tartar and seared foisgras with a side of almond hummus. I recommend the 7-course tasting menu paired with wine.
Another dining spot that merits a visit is Bordeaux’s newly opened food hall Les Halles de Bacalan. This industrial space features food from all over the globe, including Spanish tapas, a cheese section, a healthy canteen, and of course a truffle stand. The perfect stop before or after a visit to the neighboring Cité du Vin.
VISIT: A trip to Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a visit to this exceptional museum and exhibition space dedicated to wine. La Cité du Vin tells many stories both in its innovative design and the permanent exhibition filling over 3,000m2. Prepare to discover the culture and civilizations of wine, ending with a glass of wine and a 360° view of Bordeaux. Make sure to stop at the wine shop on the ground floor where you can find an impressive selection of wines from around the world.
Another museum not to miss is the CAPC musée d’artcontemporain de Bordeaux. This Contemporary Art Museum, once a warehouse, boasts not only a world of artists and exhibitions that will equally intrigue and delight the mind, the rooftop proves a destination in itself. There’s also a restaurant, Café du Musée.
SHOP: Aside from buying wines from the region, there are a few spots that I’d suggest stopping by for a look, a smell, or a taste. The Parfumerie de L’Opéra features its own Bordeaux scent, as well as many other hard to find fragrances. Librairie Mollat is the first independent bookstore in France, and with a sizeable foreign language section, there’s something for every bookworm. La Maison Darricau is a four-generations-old chocolate maker, exclusive to Bordeaux. Their Grain de Sable (hazelnut praline with sea salt) flavor alone is worth the stop!
RELAX: My favorite hammam Les Cent Ciels has just opened in Bordeaux. How better to end a weekend of dining and museum-going than relaxing at a luxurious hammam, complete with body scrub, mud mask and massage?
There’s much more to discover in the elegant and culturally rich Bordeaux, but I’ll leave that until next time.
