I first experienced the sensation of Venice as a university student during a quick sojourn en route to Croatia. My second visit was with girlfriends during my around-the-world trip in 2007. But it was this recent trip with my Italian in which I became completely smitten with the city. Where better to spend a weekend celebrating our love story. Almost nine years since that fortuitous day on New York’s Prince Street, we set our hearts on Venice.

SLEEP: Our first stop after getting lost in the maze of canals, was our home on the Grand Canal, Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. This once private palace possessing the air and art of a museum feels like you’ve entered a Venetian fairy tale. All that was missing to set the scene was a grand masquerade ball. Built in the 15th century and bought by the Sagredo family three centuries later, this palace remains in private hands.

The hands on the hotel’s facade however, are an installation by Italian sculptor Lorenzo Quinn, unveiled for the 57th Venice Biennale in 2017. Titled “Support” this piece is meant to bring attention to the threat of global warming, and I hope it will remain in place for years to come. Quinn’s smaller sculptures are on display within the hotel’s grand salons. In the Music Ballroom, numerous frescoes attributed to Gaspare Diziani cover the walls and ceiling. The Sagredo family’s coat of arms can be found decorating the floor.

Perhaps the most spectacular design element of Ca’ Sagredo is the staircase by architect Andrea Tirali, completed in 1732. He also built the Ponte dei Tre Archi over the Cannaregio canal in Venice in 1688. Two marble cherubs by Francesco Bertos greet guests, while breathtaking frescoes by Pietro Longhi  hang upon the wall.

EAT: Our first lunch stop was to Cantina Do Mori, Venice’s oldest cichetti bar, dating back to 1462, and one of Casanova’s favorite haunts. We dined on an array of delicious Venetian appetizers while mingling with the kindest locals. Thanks to their generous insights, our dining plans for the next few days were sorted. Our most decadent dinner was at the helm of chef Agostino Doria of Ostaria Santa Marina. Blending creativity with tradition, he serves perfectly balanced dishes from both land and sea. My octopus risotto was buonissimo! For an equally tasty yet more casual dining experience, Ostaria da Rioba is the place. Trust me! Even more casual still, and where we feasted on cichetti is Al Timon.

DRINK: One spot not to miss is Neo-Baroque cafe dating to 1720, Caffè Florian. Positioned on Piazza San Marco, it’s certainly a tourist attraction, but worthy of a stop for coffee or an aperitivo.

VISIT: A must see while in Venice is Palazzo Ducale, or Doges’ Palace, established in the 9th century. This was the seat of the Republic’s government, bureaucracy and main prisons.

You can easily spend an entire afternoon learning about Venetian history within this regal palace. Among the impressive artwork you’ll discover one of the world’s largest oil paintings. Tintoretti’s “Paradiso” takes over one wall of the Grand Council Hall, a sight to behold, as is the room itself.

Passing through the Bridge of Sighs, named for the sighs prisoners made while being led to captivity, you’ll enter into the newer prisons. To discover hidden secrets, take the Secret Itineraries Tour.

There’s much to see and do in Venice, besides taking a gondola ride, though that’s always an option! Even a week wouldn’t merit enough time to become intimately acquainted with the city’s six sestieri, or neighborhoods. Though in one weekend, we tried! My suggestion, wander without a map in hand and enjoy getting lost. The islands of Murano (famous for glass) and Burano (lots of lace) are only a boat ride away.

ART FIX: For the art aficionados, visit the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, an internationally recognized museum of modern art, and Punta della Dogana, an art museum in Venice’s former customs building. Captivating centuries old works of art are exhibited in one of Venice’s most venerated churches, the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.

SHOP: My favorite spot for artisanal souvenirs is Paolo Olbi’s paper shop. This legendary man (who only speaks Italian) began his craft in as a bookbinder in 1962 and years later began creating beautiful photo albums, frames and agendas. For all things luxury head to the Fondaco dei Tedeschi nearby Rialto bridge, opened in 2017. This majestic building dating back to 1228 was once a trading post for German merchants, a customs house under Napoleon, and a post office under Mussolini. Even better than the shopping? Head up to the rooftop for the best views of the city. Enjoy the dream that is Venice!

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